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I want to drive more manual sport cars. On the list I have manual Cayman/911:s, F-Type, MX-5, maybe C7... More ideas?

@getpalmd How about a Subaru BRZ?Very similar to the GT 86, but still a nice car. Or both, for a comparison?

Looks like a BMW lol

GT300: Yamauchi has closed in to within 0.4 seconds of race leader Sakaguchi! The Advics MC86 and Subaru BRZ have similar shapes - but of course, are fundamentally different cars built to unique platforms. #SuperGT

Help me buy a car! What's your guys thoughts on a 2014/2015 Genesis coupe?Also streaming....

Used car Are the Subaru BRZ, Toyota FT-86, and Scion FRS almost identical cars: They seem to have similar specs,... http://tinyurl.com/7odusmu

@Hai_L9 if you want a car better but similar to the Genesis look at the Scion FRS or the Subaru BRZ. Much better choices XD

Mazda3 is a great all-rounder. The Turbo, in particular, is quite quick; and in hatchback form, it holds a lot of stuff. Good in bad weather, reliable, safe, etc. Or if you actually want a usuable sports car for similar money, maybe hold tight for Subaru BRZ reviews to come in.

Cheap, fun, low cost of maintenance, well balanced chassis... A lot of thought was put into making it a driver's car. If you're willing to pass on the drop top, check out the Subaru BRZ. Similar reasons.

Had fun coaching in this car today too! Pretty similar to a Spec Miata actually #SubaruBRZ http://instagram.com/p/novCLhFIat/

cars similar to subaru brz Q&A Review

Why does a turbocharger require an intercooler while a supercharger does not?

In truth, neither turbocharging nor supercharging ,require, an “intercooler,” which is properly named a “charge air cooler.” Forced induction systems of all types can run without cooling the air charge, but doing so reduces the efficacy of the system. Forced induction, regardless of whether belt-driven (supercharger) or exhaust-gas-impeller-driven (turbocharger) work by pushing more air into the intake manifold. More air means more oxygen, which with additional fuel and spark mean more power (remember kids, suck, squish, bang, blow!). Accelerating air heats it, and compressing it heats it even more. If you remember, heat is simply motion at the atomic level and cold is just a lack of motion, so that’s pretty easy to remember. A basic diagram of a turbocharging system Intercoolers work by running air through a radiator made of many small fins of highly heat-conductive material, usually aluminum or similar. The air charge passes through the radiator, and since the car is moving, fresh air is running across the fins on the outside, enabling heat transfer. It is ,exactly, the same thing as your radiator (and if your car is equipped with them, oil or transmission coolers), with the only notable difference being that your radiator has fluid in it and the intercooler has air in it. Intercoolers are usually placed between the compressor fan where the air is accelerated and/or compressed and the intake manifold, cooling the charge after its heated and before it goes into the cylinders. A Roots-style blower sticking out of the hood of a muscle car, with carburetors and air filter on top of it. Intercooling is less common among superchargers for one simple reason - packaging. Roots type and twin-screw type superchargers are usually mounting directly on top of the intake manifold - usually as an actual ,part, of the intake manifold - which makes placing an intercooler difficult, though it has been done before. Centrifugal superchargers and turbochargers (which differ only in the fact that where the turbocharger has an exhaust-driven impeller, the supercharger has a belt-driven gearset instead) are remotely mounted, and thus make including an intercooler in the system easy. A more realistic view of packaging with an air-to-air charge air cooled turbocharging system. Note the remote placement of both the turbo and the intercooler This is a twin-screw supercharger. It is a positive displacement supercharger, meaning that it compresses air inside the supercharger as well as accelerates it into the intake manifold. Note that the compressed air comes out the bottom. An air-to-water intercooler for a twin screw blower, which mounts directly to the bottom of the blower. A twin-screw supercharger with integrated intercooler. Note the custom intake manifold that includes the intercooler, and the height of the system. Installed in a Subaru BRZ this SprintEX brand twin-screw intercooled supercharger barely clears the hood - notice the height of the pulley and supercharger assembly (in the very center of the photo, the large pulley with the belt going down is the supercharger drive pulley). Hood clearance will be very tight. Notice that the blue strut tower brace is significantly below the top of the blower. A Crawford Performance turbo kit for a Subaru BRZ. Notice the lack of height in the black intake manifold, allowing the strut tower brace to be connected, and the green piping which leads to the green and silver turbocharger mounted centrally at the front of the bay. The remote nature of turbocharging allowed the designer to move that mass away from the top of the engine bay leaving room for the strut tower brace to stiffen the chassis. Most factory superchargers are Roots-type blowers in the US. GM has used Eaton manufactured Roots blowers exclusively to my knowledge for decades, though supercharging has fallen out of favor to turbocharging, due to turbochargers being more fuel-efficient while providing more power at the price of a higher boost threshold (often mistakenly called turbo lag). In practice, most forced induction systems are limited to around 5–6psi of boost without some method of cooling the air charge. Boost is the amount of compressed air, measured in pounds per square inch in Standard measure or Bar in metric, above our normal atmospheric pressure added to the air charge. Earth’s atmosphere at sea level is 14.5psi or 1 Bar. So a system running 5 pounds of boost is pushing 19.5psi absolute, 5psi above our normal atmospheric pressure. We tend to find that pressures much above 5–6psi (.34-.4 bar) lose efficiency without a charge air cooler, where the air is expanding from being heated so much that it overwhelms the compression we’re trying to achieve. Adiabiatic efficiency map, showing air charge temperatures by color as they pass through a twin screw supercharger Few factory systems rely on anything but a traditional air-to-air intercooler (as described above, like a radiator), because the alternatives are either consumable or complex (which you can simply read as “expensive”). Aftermarket setups sometimes use water or methanol injection, which are exactly what they sound like, injecting those substances into the air charge, usually in the intake manifold, to cool the air charge through evaporation. The problem, of course, is that you run out of water or methanol and have to refill those tanks, and most people can barely be bothered to put gas in their cars and have their oil changed. You’ll also occasionally see air-to-water intercoolers, which run the compressed air charge over a heat exchanger filled with coolant to cool the air charge. These setups are more complex, and thus more expensive, because the coolant must be cooled down again after it’s heated, necessitating a pumping system to move the coolant around, check valves to ensure hot coolant isn’t recirculated before it cools down, and a second heat exchanger to dissipate the heat transferred from the air charge to the coolant. Thus ends your basic education on forced induction. Hopefully you understand the nature of forced induction and intercooling sufficiently to understand why charge air coolers are commonly used, but not required.

Is the Subaru BRZ/Scion FR-S/Toyota 86 a good daily driver?

It’s a good car if you want something you can daily drive and also take to track days, autocross, etc. It’s also fun on twisty roads. In many ways, it’s similar to the Miata. If you just want a car to get you from point A to point B and don’t care about how it drives, there are much better options.

What are some alternatives to the Mazda RX-8?

Lol, the RX-8 doesn't have engine problems unless you mean it might overheat if you're an idiot. Basic maintenance is all it really needs. But, keep saying that, because it helps drive the price down on an excellent car. If you want a car which is less picky about keeping oil in it, go for a Honda. The S2000 is a pretty good driver. If you want to go slow, go for the Toyota 86, which is sold as the Subaru BRZ or the Scion FRS. If you want to go faster but spend more money, look at the Nissan 350z. Also, see this answer, with pictures...,Jasmine Adamson's answer to What are the best sports cars under $15,000?

Why is Toyota using other companies’ engines in their cars?

First off, you’re getting a bit ahead of things. Toyota is only using one engine from one other company* in one new car model, the Supra. Presumably they did this because of where crash and emissions regulations have gotten to. For Toyota, a new Supra would have required them to engineer a new platform and engine that meets all current regulatory requirements. What’s worse is that the Supra has traditionally had an inline 6 engine and Toyota doesn’t make any engines like that *and* that sort of engine wouldnt’ fit in any other model that they make. This means they can’t amortize costs across more production volume. As it turned out, BMW does still make inline 6 engines and makes a car (the Z4) that’s roughly the same size and layout that Toyota required. So, Toyota partnered with BMW. As it turns out, Mercedes and Nissan have a similar partnership with the Mercedes CLA and Infiniti something or other (I’m not looking up the model but it looks almost the same). Now, personally, I think Toyota dropped the ball here. The Supra’s legacy is mostly based on 4th generation that was made in the 90s. The ,Toyota JZ engine - Wikipedia, engine was well known for being incredibly strong. Somehow, BMW guts betrays that legacy. *Toyota has had a long relationship with Yamaha as both an engine supplier and engineering consultant. They often use Yamaha to help out with their higher performance engines in terms of design and Yamaha has done at least some manufacturing for them. The 1.8L ZZ engine, which was used in the Lotus Elise had Yamaha designed heads with variable valve timing. The 2000GT also had an engine with a Yamaha designed, DOHC head. EDIT: A number of comments have mentioned that the Toyota GT86 uses a Subaru engine. That is correct but the fact is, the GT86 is really a Subaru BRZ with a different badge on it. Subaru did the engineering and design on the car (and stole a few things from the Toyota parts catalog as Toyota owns 10% of Subaru) and also manufactures it. It’s not really a Toyota.

Do you regret buying a coupe car?

A bit. I had a BMW 135i. It was a decent car and it adequately seated two teen kids in the back but for the same money I could have had a 335i sedan. They're very similar cars and the extra size of the sedan would have been more convenient. The 1er was a couple hundred pounds lighter but in such a heavy car that had so much power it didn't really make a big difference. Mind you, a test drive in a Subaru BRZ coupe taught me what a real sports car feels like. That's a coupe I wouldn't mind owning. And then again, I have now an S2000 which is a convertible and I Iike that even more. If there's a choice: In a four seat car, sedan or hatchback > over coupe. Two seats, convertible > coupe.

What makes the steering feel so good in a Subaru BRZ or a Scion FR-S?

There are a couple of things… First, “so good” is completely subjective. Compared to, oh, a Camry, it’s amazing; compared to a Cayman, it’s positively truck-like. I’ve got some ideas as to what you’re feeling though. First, the BRZ/Toyota 86 uses a horizontally opposed four-cylinder engine, very similar to that used in the rest of the Subaru lineup. It’s mounted very, very low in the frame, creating a very low center of gravity for the car and a nearly impossibly low center of gravity for the steering geometry. That’s a big deal. Creates a “my tires are carving into the pavement” sensation when you turn sharply. Related to this, the weight distribution is 53/47, nearly perfectly 50/50, which also helps tons; the front is NOT heavier than the rear. Second, the suspension is designed for high stability. MacPhearson strut setup, sure, but with an interesting lower-A-arm design. I’d have been more impressed with tubular or forged alloy components, but hey, for a production car, this is right on up there. (sidebar: you can get replacement ,Front Lower Control Arms, from Racer X Fabrication to step that up a notch, should you so desire) Third, it’s a rear-wheel drive car. For, oh, nearly everyone reading this, you grew up driving front wheel drive cars. Front wheel drive has some advantages, but when you mate driveline and steering, you make a lot of compromises. One of those is ,torque steer,, where the unevenly applied torque from the engine makes one wheel pull harder than the other, causing the car to steer in that direction. When you start to combat torque steer, you wind up introducing other components that typically make the steering feel a lot heavier. That’s, frankly, one of the reasons that steering is more responsive in RWD vehicles. Your “so good” feeling is probably due to all, or some of the above. I agree. They’re awesome vehicles, no matter how you slice it.

Is there a car that makes sense to buy brand new instead of used or certified pre-owned?

Yes, a few. Toyota Tacomas often hold their value well enough to make it worth it. A few other models are the same. Another overlooked factor can be color. If you aren't too picky, you can frequently find a new car on a dealer lot that is in a less than desirable color marked way down because it's been there too long. Dealers get really desperate to move old inventory, and you can use that to your advantage to make up for a lot of depreciation. Case in point: a few years ago, I bought an orange Jeep Wrangler new. MSRP was about $25k, but it had been there for a while and the dealer let it go for about $17k. Flash forward a few years, and I traded it in and got… about $18k for it. Another similar tactic if your patient, not picky but can move fast is to keep an eye on dealer loss leaders - dealers will sometimes mark one unit down ridiculously low to make a splash in the weekly ad. Buying that one exact car will often have the effect of the dealer paying off your first few years of depreciation. Depending on the model of course. One more note: personally I would be really hesitant to buy a used Nissan 370z, Subaru BRZ, Golf GTI, Ford Focus ST, Subaru WRX, or a few other similar models, because I've spent enough time at track days and races seeing how they are abused by their (mostly young, male) drivers. You’d be surprised the gremlins people can work into those cars. So in that case I would take the hit on depreciation in exchange for not worrying about maintenance.

What is the fastest car you have ever driven?

Let me preface this with the fact that I've never driven a 911, Ferarri, RS4, or anything above the everyman's price range. Fast is relative. I would say the fastest car I've ever driven was a Subaru WRX STI. Let me explain. 350z, 3.7 Hyundai Genesis, both fast, but heavy and the tires are happy to slip. Could use a diet and some meaty tires, not confidence inspiring enough. A Challenger 392, a fast pig, moreso a combersome monster. Camaro SS, a bit more refined but similar to the Challenger. Miata, definitely fast, get it in twisties that would have most cars doing 20mph, you're shocked to see how well even an unpracticed driver can go 50mph. Civic Si, Focus st, Subaru BRZ, NC Miata, Turbo eclipse, Turbo Celica, first Gen Audi TT Quattro, all spritely and great fun, but fast isn't what I would call them, moreso tossable. A Hawkeye WRX is properly fast. 300hp, 300 lb-ft, not too much by the standards of “fast”. If you notice though, HP numbers are all over the board in this post. Power is irrelevant. A 2006 STI weights a bit above 3,000lbs, putting it nicely below the American offerings of fast, and somewhat below your Z cars and other surprisingly heavy sports cars. The weight however, comes from the absolutely outstanding AWD system. This AWD and that typical 2000’s era turbo power band is what makes the Subaru fast. When I first drove one, I was laughing at how weak 2,000 rpm felt compared to the 350z I owned at the time. Then when I went to punch it, I was shocked at how quickly my head hit the backrest and we shot up past speed limit. Try to launch, and you know what twice the driving wheels means when it comes to acceleration. Nothing to everything real real fast. A new TT is comparable in my opinion, a TTRS is better I'd imagine but neither are as raw and pointed about the speed. The fastest car I've ever driven? No. That'd probably go to the Challenger, Camaro SS, or Mustang GT. But the Subie type of fast was the fast that I most felt, that most made me feel.

How long should you run a modern car engine before you start to move or switch to drive?

Every morning, when I start my car, it idles at 1500 rpm for the first few seconds. Waiting for it to settle into an idle at ~700 rpm seems like eternity, but it’s really no more than 60 seconds. I do not move the car as long as the engine is idling at anything over 800 rpm. As soon as it dips below it, I put it in gear and drive off. I do this in my 2015 Subaru BRZ, also in my wife’s Subaru Legacy and used to do it in my old 2006 Mazda MX-5 Miata. I also do it in any rental car or even if I happen to drive a friend’s car. My reason is this. Modern engines are programmed intelligently. The computer controlled electronic fuel injection system sends “rich” mixture into the combustion chamber (similar to pulling the choke in the olden days) until some conditions are met - that’s why idling rpm is high. After those conditions are met, it starts to send “lean” mixture. I do not intend to move the car when the car’s brain thinks it’s not ready yet. When idling rpm falls to ~700, I know it’s ready to move. Whether that takes 5 seconds or 55 - I don’t care, as long as I’m not in a hurry.

Is there a car similar to Mazda Miata that is in the next price range up?

Sure. There are a few options I can think of right off the bat. a Porsche boxter. Used examples can be had for fairly cheap depending on how “used” you opt for. A Honda S2000. This is my car of choice. 2 seats, 4 naturally aspirated cylinders, manual transmission and rear wheel drive. Also convertible. A Subaru BRZ or Toyota 86 or scion FRS (these are all essentially the same car with different branding). These have 4 seats however and are not offered as a convertible. Mercedes Benz SLK if you're looking for a more luxurious option. I don't see the appeal in these do to a less than exciting drive and quick depreciation. BMW Z4. A more sporty equivalent to the merc. And possibly the closest thing to what you asked would be the Fiat 124 Spider. This literally is a Miata with different body panels and a more expensive interior. It shares the same chassis as the ND Miata but comes equipped with a turbo charged motor that produces more torque than the Miata. From what I've gathered based off of motor journalist reviews is that it is overall less engaging than the Miata but may be the perfect blend of luxury and sportiness for the dollar. As a 1994 Miata owner and 2004 S2000 owner, I would recommend going with what you're after most. Do you favor luxury or sportiness? If luxury and style is your thing, I would go with the SLK or z4 (although the z4 is a more engaging car no doubt). If you want a a great drivers car, I would go with an s2000 and if you want a brand new vehicle that may be the best of both worlds I'd go with the fiat.

cars similar to subaru brz Related FAQs

  • Q

    Does Subaru BRZ has Immobilizer?


    No, Subaru BRZ doesn't have Immobilizer.

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  • Q

    Does Subaru BRZ has Autonomous Emergency Braking?


    No, Subaru BRZ doesn't have Autonomous Emergency Braking.

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  • Q

    Is Subaru BRZ available in ASEAN NCAP Rating?


    No, Subaru BRZ isn't available in ASEAN NCAP Rating.

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