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subaru forester mpg by year

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subaru forester mpg by year Q&A Review

What kind of car do you want to purchase next?

(I have a 2010 Subaru Forester with 145,000 miles and a rebuilt engine, that I plan to drive for another 20–50k, till something expensive needs to be replaced.) I want to purchase a 3–5 year used utility vehicle with less than 50k miles, good MPG, inexpensive to repair/maintain for the next 100k miles. 4-door station wagon or SUV style. 3500–5000 lb towing capacity. 4wd preferred. US/California legal only. Needs to have good visibility for a 6′ tall person with a long torso (that unfortunately rules out the Toyota 4Runner and Tacoma, which I like but they have very low roofs and windshields), and some others like the Nissan Pathfinder). I’m considering a Volvo XC70 or XC90, another Subaru Forester or Outback, a Jeep Renegade or Compass or Cherokee, or a Toyota Land Cruiser or Lexus LX450 if I somehow find one in good condition and decide I can live with the MPG penalty. Maybe by the time I need one, the new Land Rover Defender will be out, but it probably won’t meet most of my criteria.

What's your experience driving a Subaru Outback or Forester? Why should I get one over the other?

We're not comparing apples to oranges here. Comparing the Subaru Outback and Subaru Forester is like comparing two varieties of an All Wheel Drive apple--many similarities, but with a few subtle differences. Foresters and Outbacks have many differences in terms of ride quality, dimensions, price, ride height, image perception, transmission options, engine size, and fuel economy. In terms of Ride Quality, the Outback has a longer wheelbase (distance between the axles is 5 inches longer than the Forester). Think of a stretch limousine…lengthening the distance between the axles provides a smoother ride because the vehicle platform covers more square area and therefore bumps are less noticeable. But don't think that the Forester has a harsh ride; in fact, it rides much better than its small sport utility competitors. It's just that the Outback is even smoother. The Outback is nine inches longer and two inches wider. The Forester is three inches taller. Total interior space is about the same for both vehicles. (i.e. you could put the same number of ping pong balls in both cars.) Have big kids? Go for the Outback and its larger backseat. Have a big dog? Go for the Forester because the rear door on the Forester is more erect and there is more height for your pooch to stand up. Cyclists tend to prefer the Outback, as the extra length makes it easy to throw a couple of bikes in the back without even removing the wheels. If you travel long distances frequently and you're tall, you'll prefer an Outback. Price Comparisons: Comparably equipped, the Outback is about $2500 more than the Forester. The difference buys you a slightly bigger car, with more standard equipment, and even higher quality materials (such as carpeting and interior surface finishes.) In regards to Ride Height, you will sit slightly higher in a Forester, but Subaru engineers designed both vehicles with a "command driving position" (the auto industry term that describes that great feeling of sitting high in a vehicle so you can see what's ahead.) Because of the SUBARU BOXER engine design, the center of mass in the vehicle sits quite low so both vehicles handle quite nimbly and are very unlikely to roll over. Ground clearance is the same, at almost 9 inches, so both vehicles elude obstacles that grab mere mortal vehicles. Overall image is a determining factor for Subaru shoppers. Many guests will tell us that the Outback looks more like a station wagon and the Forester looks more like a sport utility vehicle, and therefore the Forester is "cooler". Staff opinion is equally divided on the matter, which, ultimately, is just one of personal taste. Transmission differences between the Forester and Outback: The Forester uses a 4-speed automatic transmission. Beginning with the 2010 model year, the 4-cylinder Outback uses a continuously variable transmission (CVT) which has no gears. In very simple terms, it's a fantastically durable steel belt that moves along a cone…the fatter part of the cone for speed, the narrower part for power. The transmission gives the Outback a two mile per gallon advantage in fuel economy, even though it is slightly heavier. (The 2014 Forester, yet to be revealed in the U.S., will most likely have a CVT transmission to improve fuel economy.) For manual transmission vehicles, the Outback uses a six speed manual transmission; the Forester uses a five speed. Engine differences: The standard engine in both vehicles is the same potent 2.5 liter four cylinder BOXER engine with 170 horsepower. A 3.6 liter engine is available in the Outback with a five speed automatic transmission, and a turbocharged 2.5 liter engine is available in the Forester with a 4-speed automatic transmission. The fuel economy difference: With the standard 2.5 liter engine and CVT, the Outback is EPA rated for 22mpg city/29 mpg highway. With the standard 2.5 liter engine and four speed automatic, the Forester gets 21mpg city/27 mpg highway. There are many factors that play into fuel economy, such as city vs highway driving, paved vs dirt roads, and personal driving habits. Either vehicle makes a good choice for Northern climates, as they handle snow, sleet and ice with equal ability, thanks to Subaru Symmetrical All Wheel Drive. Both vehicles are Top Safety Picks according to IIHS (Insurance Institute for Highway Safety) Hopefully the explanations above help you in your decision, one that ultimately comes down to your travel needs, space requirements, and personal taste. Safe travels and many happy miles with your Subaru! For more information, you can visit us at ,http://www.stanleysubaru.com,, or subscribe to our blog: ,http://www.stanleysubaru.com,/blog/index.htm.

What car did you own before your Tesla, and do you miss anything about it?

What car did you own before your Tesla, and do you miss anything about it? I drove a 2001 Subaru Forester which I purchased new for about $ 27,000 if memory serves me. It’s been a reasonably reliable vehicle for 200,000 miles compared to many other cars I’ve owned. It was AWD and got 24 mpg unleaded (less in winter). I had my share of troubles with it, though. A blown head gasket, three rear wheel bearing replacements, two oxygen sensor replacements, two half shaft and CV joint replacements, gasoline vapor canister replacement, timing belt replacement, cabin clock replacement, several sets of brake pads, three brake fluid flushes, three coolant flushes, transmission fluid replacement, twenty eight oil and filter changes, three sets of spark plugs, three fuel filter and PVC replacements, eight engine air filter replacements, several emissions tests, three parking brake adjustments, four sets of tires and numerous tire rotations. Fortunately, I was never involved in an accident, never had to replace the wind shield, and there’s no rust on the car. I was even thinking of buying another Subaru. I estimate having purchased about 9000 gallons of gasoline at an average of $2.50/gallon, costing about $22,000. Adding an estimated $15,000 for maintenance and repairs gives a total cost of ownership of $64,000 not counting insurance, financing, licensing, and taxes. That averages about $3300/year over the service life of the car which is quite low compared the AAA estimated average of $8,469 in 2017. One can save a lot of money buying a reliable car and keeping it for many years. When it came time to replace the Subaru, I looked at all the options, and I chose the Tesla Model 3. I had enough money saved up to splurge on a more expensive car. The price of the Model 3 AWD came to $53,000 after incentives. When I calculated the total cost of ownership over 20 years and 200,000 miles, it came to less than the total cost of ownership for the Subaru. And it’s a ,much, better car. I charge the car at home overnight for about $0.08/kWh. So the cost of energy will amount to about $5000 vs $22,000 fuel costs for the Subaru. Maintenance costs should be minimal. Except for tires, wiper replacement, and a brake and coolant flush at 100,000 miles, there’s no regular maintenance needed on a Model 3. The battery will easily last 200K miles and likely a lot longer. The drive train is good for a million miles of trouble free service. Do I miss anything about the Subaru? Yes. It had more cargo carrying space than the Model 3. The Tesla has 15 cu. ft of cargo space, the Forester had twice that. I could drive further on a tank of gas than I can on a full battery charge (381 miles vs 310 miles for the Tesla). Actually, driving range was my biggest concern going electric, but 310 miles range for the Model 3 and Tesla’s Supercharger network eased my fears on that point. I love taking long trips with my Tesla even having to stop every 200 miles or so to charge. Charging stops are rarely more than 30 minutes, barely enough time to make a potty stop, grab a cup of coffee, or a bite to eat. And Autopilot makes highway travel so much less tiring. All in all, no regrets.

Does a 620 mile range change your mind about Tesla and electric cars?

I own a Tesla Model 3. Its EPA stated range of 310 miles changed my mind. Now that I’ve got a few months experience driving this car, I think that those who stress over owning one because of range and charging concerns have a mistaken perception. Even the range reduction experienced in the dead of a Chicago winter is not enough to dampen my enthusiasm for this car, but I have to admit that all the waste heat generated by an internal combustion engine sure is nice to have when the temperature drops below freezing. People point to the inconvenience of having to wait for up to an hour to recharge the battery, but, in truth, I devote far less time charging my Tesla than the time I used to spend filling the gas tank of my Subaru Forester. Not having to stop at a gas station every 200 miles is a luxury I can no longer live without. Driving 12,000 miles a year, an ICEV with a 16 gallon fuel tank and getting 28 mpg requires about 35 fill ups each year. The amount of time taken to locate and stop at a gas station, find an open pump, enter your credit card info, pump 12 gallons of gas, and get back on the road again, takes a conservative 10 minutes. That’s nearly 6 hours spent each year fueling a gasoline fueled car, at a cost of over $1000 at $2.50/gal of regular gas. Compare that to a Tesla with a 300+ mile range. The time I spend plugging in the car in my garage after returning home from wherever, plus unplugging it in the morning before driving to wherever adds up to about 20 minutes ,for the entire year,. That means I can spend 5 hours recharging my Tesla on long trips to equal the time I used to spend fueling an ICE car. Oh, and I spend about just $300 for the electricity. The only advantage a gas burning car has over the Tesla is that when the tank runs dry, it can be refilled quickly. It’s true. But for most people that advantage is not particularly important. The times I have to actually wait for the Tesla battery to recharge are so few, it’s hardly worth consideration. When I take a trip that exceeds 250 miles round trip, and have to recharge the battery en route, I usually spend the time having a delicious breakfast, lunch or dinner at a restaurant along the way, stay overnight at a motel, or recharge my biological battery by catching a few winks. The extensive network of rapid recharging stations that Tesla has strategically located at restaurants and hotel/motels all across the country completely eliminated my range anxiety. Don’t fall for the argument that range limitations and long recharging times are legitimate reasons for not owning a Tesla. It’s a red herring.

I’m debating buying a newer Subaru Forester AWD or a newer Jeep Cherokee 4x4. What is better?

The Forester hands down, better MPG, much longer lasting, and durable, all things that the jeeps are lacking in recent years.

What kind of 4W car can you recommend? I don't want an off-road vehicle, but something that's good in both snow and on hot pavement.

I have driven Chevy trucks, Volkswagen beetles and International Harvester Scouts through the snow in northern Maryland in the seventies, as well as Jeeps through the mountains of New Mexico in the eighties. The best snow and road car I ever owned was a 1986 Nissan Stanza wagon, when I lived in the mountains of Virginia. I settled in the South and returned to Chevy trucks. My youngest, approaching yet another deployment said he would sell me his Subaru Forester for a dollar. It is 16 years old with 200k on it. My full size Silverado was about dead, this was like a little tinker toy but what the heck. So I give him 500 bucks and now I’m driving a Jap SUV. I love this vehicle! I treat it like a truck. It goes through the back roads at my local shooting range, screams down the interstate and gets 28 mpg. When the wife’s car died, I asked her what she wanted and she said “One of those.” pointing to my Subaru. She loves her Outback. It is much newer with all kinds of gadgets including a drive train I can’t even explain that gets over 30 mpg. Yeah, it’s one of those zero emission things but I never worry when the old lady hits the road. So, Subaru would be my recommendation. Reminds me of the Stanza wagon.

How does the Volkswagen Tiguan compare to the Honda CR-V if they have about the same price?

We did a lot of new car shopping before deciding on our 2019 vehicle. Five suv's survived the cut: ford escape, toyota rav4, subaru forester, vw tiguan, and the honda crv. In the end our top 3 were the toyota, the vw, and the honda. We drove the honda crv over to the vw dealership, with the dealers permission, to do a very intensive side by side comparison. The two best features of the tiguan were price and warranty, I believe the tiguan would end up costing 3k less than the crv, and the vw also offered a 6 year warranty. There is a reason for this. In every other way, the honda was more impressive than the vw. First, nothing broke on the honda while we were operating every knob, lever, and button opening/closing and powering up all systems . The vw did not fair as well. Second, the info system on the honda makes sense. It will tell you what you need to know. The vw's system looks pretty, but i dare anyone to make sense out of the fuel mileage indicator. The interior room offered by the crv is also bigger than the vw, and the rear seats fold flat, unlike the vw, with a simple pull of a lever just inside the hatchback. The vw does however offer third row seating for smaller folks, however i believe this compromises the addition of a spare tire. The ride is perhaps the biggest difference when comparing these two vehicles. The vw vibrated, was noisy, and the automatic shifted like all automatics shift- smooth at times, with a bit of bucking bronco here and there. The crv was wonderful in every way. In the end we bought the honda and have been driving it for half a year. Some things the honda offers that i have come to appreciate: upto 29 mpg city and 36 mpg highway. The safety features that work, lane keeping assist Is impressive and a big thumbs up to the adoptive cruise control. Cvt transmission- smooth! Capless fuel fill, all cars should have this. Easy to locate center cup holders so there is no need to take eyes off the road when putting drink down. For us the clear winner was the honda. We purchased the mid level front wheel drive and are very pleased.

If my car says I only have 50 miles left on my gas tank but I have 53 miles left on my trip would I still be able to make it the rest of the way using the left over fumes from the old gas in my tank?

I actually feel qualified to answer this. This is something that I always wondered, so I decided to test it out in my 2002 Volvo S80 once. I filled a 1gal gas canister and put it in the trunk so when the inevitable stall came I would be ready. The “distance to empty” computer on that car went down to 10 miles (16km) to empty before it could not give any reading. After i lost the estimate/readout I drove about 20 miles (32km) around quiet backstreets (I didn’t want to stall on the interstate or a highway) before the car abruptly shut off. I poured in my gallon, the display went back to 20 miles to empty, and then I drove to my favourite gas station to refill. Just this weekend, I was able to run a similar test on my wife’s 2015 Subaru Forester. Her display said 40km (25miles) to empty when I made it to the gas station. At the time cruising around the quiet city streets with a lot of start stop driving I was averaging about 11km/l or 21MPG or so. I filled the car to the brim, and it took 55L of premium gas, in the 60L fuel tank. Ie, the tank still had 5L of gas left or 1.5 US gallons of gas. With the mileage I was averaging at the time, I would have been able to go about 66 km when the car said 40km remaining, meaning I had a give or take 25km / 15 mile “reserve”. I didn't plan on testing this again, but ended up inadvertently doing it again this weekend. The Forester went down to 30km remaining, and the tank took almost exactly 55L to refill. This is consistent with my previous calculation on the vehicle. P.S. I know that you shouldn't run a vehicle down to empty because of the risk of damaging the fuel pump or introducing air into the fuel system (esp diesel), or that on inclines the fuel pump may not be able to pick up the last of the fuel. I also am very aware that these distance to empty indicators are only estimates. Also, it’s not a good idea to run past ‘E’ since any accumulated contamination at the bottom of the tank could damage the engine if pumped up. I also know that my MPG is less than satisfactory, particularly on the Subaru, but come to Kingston Jamaica and drive for a bit and let me know how you do. P.S. 2: Thanks for the million views and the 3500+ upvotes everyone! Stay safe out there So in the comments, Sonja Villegas said that she was expecting a funnier story, so I don’t want to disappoint. Here is a story of me running OUT of fuel. “If you were waiting to hear that I ran out of fuel…… that is a different story for you. I once borrowed a vehicle (2002 Nissan X trail) from a friend and went to stay at a cabin way up in Jamaica's Blue Mountains about an hour from Kingston (the city). After a relaxing night, I go to start the car and bam, flat battery. No worries, I flag down someone driving in the area and I get a jump start (using electrical house wiring no less lol). Anyway once I got hooked up to their car my vehicle was cranking away, but just would not start. It turns out my friend forgot to mention that his gas gauge (analog) was wonky, and that quarter tank means literally 0 fuel at all in the tank… I called the JAA (Jamaican version of AAA) and asked for them to bring some fuel and a jump starter (almost 1.5 hours drive away!). By their rules, they can only bring a max of 6L (less than two gallons) fuel or something like that if I remember. We got the fuel, got the jump start and practically neutralled the vehicle all the way down from the mountains back to Kingston, and dived into the first gas station we got to (Texaco, Papine if any Jamaicans are reading). It was a very very interesting drive back to town….. Fast forward 4 years and my family came to visit Jamaica and the friend offered me the same vehicle for them to use. We were driving in convoy with my sister driving that XTrail. We stop to get some food and she goes to start the car and it's just turning over and not starting…. I go to the drivers window and ask her if she has “quarter tank” of gas. She asks me how I knew, and I told her I know because she actually has no gas lol. This time we go lucky since a gas station was just next door. I should have warned her !!!”

Is it a good idea to buy a plug in hybrid?

I bought a Toyota Prius Prime last year. As a retired guy most of my day to day traveling fits into the 30 mile electric range so I get about 150 mpg. The power is more than adequate but it’s a small vehicle. My wife and I and two little dogs fit fine. If you buy at the end of the year, Toyota usually offers pretty good rebates. The entertainment system though is Satanic in nature, not at all obvious to use. I don’t regret the choice of the Prime. Note this is not my only vehicle, we also have a Subaru Forester for bad weather and heavier loads.

What car is the easiest and cheapest to repair and maintain? Or, conversely, what cars rarely need repair?

Well to begin with, the engine in the mini coopers Already comes with a large issue. The timing chain tensioner on them gives up rather abruptly without much warning. If the engine jumps timing, and it does, then you have a paperweight. So the first thing I would suggest to you is to stay away from that particular car. Now onto your question. I have owned several cars from several manufacturers over the years so I am fairly well versed in the issues most have. The Toyota Camry (1998+)would be my top choice for outright reliability, economy, and smoothness. with that said, here is a list I've made to tell you exactly what I have seen and come to expect from various manufacturers. 2001+ Honda Civic. Reliable, cheap to own and operate. Rough idling cars. 2001+ gm full size trucks. Smooth idle. Great power. one of the best mpg of any full size truck. Engines simply never break. Fuel pump failure at some point is biggest concern. subaru forester or outback. V6 model has few issues at all. Four cylinder has a problematic head gasket failure that makes it simply not worth purchasing. audi a4. Great mpg. Few failures on v6 models. Get a 5 speed car. Transmission failure occurs around 120k miles and costs more than car is worth to repair. VW Passat or jetta. Drivetrain is all Audi. Same issues as above. mercedes c class and BMW 3 series. Great mpg, decent power, have more features than any comparable cars. Don't break often. When they do break, you pay about double the price of standard repairs. mercedes s class and BMW 7 series. Great power, ok mpg. So many options that something will always break. Repair costs are about %50 higher than the base models from these manufacturers. mercedes amg and BMW m models. i can literally put the operating costs into Italian car territory. You simply don't purchase one of these unless you are very knowledgeable about repairs or have enough disposable income not too care about 5–10k repair bills. ford f150-f250 (1996–2010 or any other ford from these years that came equipped wia modular engine). Decent power, mediocre mpg. The modular engine is the most problematic i have ever seen and I would suggest anyone to stay as far away from them as they can. Don't say I didn't warn you about these abominations. With that said, the best car I have ever seen for commuting that also costs next to nothing is the TDI jetta. If you can find one with a manual transmission, the car gets an honest 50mpg on the freeway.

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