** This article is the personal experience of a 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STI owner and does not necessarily
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The Subaru WRX S4 STi Sport # has just been announced exclusively for Japan.
And how long has it been since you’ve seen a Peugeot in action?
Subaru XV (RM 117,788 – RM 130,788), which is slightly bigger, has a larger 2.0-litre engine and
This video of a Subaru BRZ drifting inside a petrol station has been drawing massive amount of attention
Similarly, if you wanted to go fast on water, you should be piloting a speed boat, not a car.
Nealy seven years after leaving Indonesia, Subaru is set to return to the country under the distributorship
If you were too late to buy the now-sold-out Toyota GR Yaris, you’re in for a surprise, as Toyota
Subaru is one of those underrated brands that not many Malaysians would consider getting unless they
The GR Yaris was just launched last week.Which is precisely what this as-yet-unnamed Subaru is.
The render above by Japanese media gives an artist impression of how the car could look like.
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SUV, another often overlooked factor might be how quiet the cabin is.
more similar than initially thought. 0-100 km/h, X50 vs AtivaNot quite 100 km/h, but our Ativa is touted
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mated to a 7-speed DCT gearbox.
BRZ.Apart from the upcoming Toyota 86/BRZ duo, Toyota and Subaru will also co-develop a platform dedicated
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Images of a white Perodua Myvi sitting on a fish stall has gone viral on social media recently.
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we get started, let’s take a closer look at what makes a CVT, a CVT.What is a CVT?
like a drive-in cinema.
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The Subaru WRX is one of those old-school four-door performance sedans that just refuses to give up.
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I was going to say that most teenagers will not take care of a car. It would be better to buy a used Volvo. If he is paying for it, that's a different story. The safest car on the road is a Tesla Model S. It also has tracking built in. You can see where the car is and how fast it is going any time you want. It is practically impossible to steal. A P60 be less than 100K. It has built in phone capability, great navigation, parking aid, smart cruise control, and auto pilot (road following). It is the most advanced piece of hardware with wheels. The fastest production car on the road is: Tesla Model S P85D version, which is significantly more pricey than 100K. I'm told there is a software update that will drop the 0-60 time to 2.8 sec. This is way too much power for a teenager IMO. I drive an S and love the car. Other cars I've really enjoyed are: Boxster S, Subaru WRX. All three are relatively inexpensive to operate. I have spent maybe $500 in electricity for the Tesla in the last year AND NOTHING ELSE. I've driven about 15,000 miles.
I would emagine its close to the previous WRX's probably some drivetrain tweaks and some motor tweaks to maybe get some more power. The thing is it looks a lot heavier but non the less there quick I think the 0-60 is about 4.5 or something like that. Wicked launches too
With $20k, I will list used performance cars that you can score for $20k or even much less with similar performance. Let’s start with the list: Asian brands: Infiniti G37/q50/q60 Lexus is350 Acura TLX(s) Subaru WRX Hyundai Genesis coupe Honda Civic SI European brands: BMW 135i/335i/435i BMW Z-series Audi S4/S5 Mercedes C350 or C63 (high mileage) American brands: Chevrolet Camaro RS or SS Ford Mustang V6 or GT Dodge Charger RT Dodge Challenger RT Chevrolet Impala SS There are a lot of options for you to choose from, and even more than what is on this list. However, due to having a $20k budget, depending on the car you choose to get, the year will vary greatly. You can score a 2012 BMW 335i well-equipped for under $20k with decent mileage. But you can score a Honda Civic SI that is several years newer for the same price. Or, you can only get like a 2008 Mercedes C63 for $20k with higher mileage. How fast are these cars? Most, if not all cars, on this list can do 0–60 MPH less than around 6.5 seconds. But, you can add a cheap tune to a used BMW 335i and have a car that can do 0–60 MPH in 4.5 seconds for less than $20k still, even after the tune. All these cars are capable of 130 MPH top speeds, with many being above 150 MPH plus. So it still varies based on speed. Now, with handling, the BMW 135i is hard to beat, but anything Asian or European will definitely corner better than most, if not all muscle cars. But if you want raw V8 power, stick to American muscle cars. Conclusion What type of performance do you want? Luxury performance? Go European. Want something a bit cheaper to tune and mod on your own while having handling and reliability to your favor? Go Asian. Want raw V8 straight-line performance? Go American. You have a decent list to choose from with a $20k budget. Now, if you have other options I didn’t include, please comment them :)
I can think of a couple of items. Subaru Impreza WRX (yes, you can see my shadow) This was my first new car (the other one was used) and also the car on which I learned to drive a manual transmission. I used it for three years but then didn't need a car any more (city life), so I sold it. I had a great time driving it. Lots of memorable and enjoyable experiences. Of course, I always (always!) drove it under the local speed limit, and never tried to tap into the great Subaru rally-car racing heritage by driving it at excessive speeds on curving country roads. And I never once tried to see how fast I could go 0-60. Apple MacBook (I'm writing this answer on one.) This is not so much a single purchase as a stream or a subscription. I earn money writing code. In the past, I've earned money doing other kinds of writing. As such, using the best computer - for me - is very important. If I'm going to be using a tool in my profession for 10 hours a day, you'd better believe the quality of that tool is extremely important. You might as well ask Obi-Wan if he wants to have the best lightsaber available to him. Since I mostly use laptops as my primary computers, I like the build quality and consistency that Apple brings (single piece metal cases, etc). I develop for the web and Unix/Linux platforms, and I prefer a system with a Unix command line. Also, I figure I'll probably use a given computer as my primary system for 3 years, perhaps 2000 hours a year. I know most Windows-based (or Linux-installable) systems are cheaper. But would I prefer to spend the money now on what I really want - and know I will use to the fullest - or compromise on a fundamental professional tool in order to save 15-20 cents an hour?
There have been a few times where I have driven vehicles at a very fast rate of speed under different circumstances. Once at the Richard Petty Speedway in Orlando, I did a NASCAR driving experience where you get to drive on a banked oval track in a real NASCAR spec car. The first 8 laps I averaged over 103 mph. When they asked if I wanted to do another 8 laps I quickly agreed, and this time I averaged about 106 mph once the pace car driver realized I could handle the car easily at high speed. If you take into consideration slowing down a bit on the corners, I probably reached over 120 mph in the straights. In 2004 I was one of the first customers to purchase a new Subaru WRX Sti when they first came to Canada. When I picked it up I ended up on the main highway in stop-and-go traffic because of a massive city-wide power failure. With the stiff clutch and not getting out of 2nd gear, it was a frustrating first drive. Months later, I was able to open it up on a rarely-used stretch of road to about 130 mph. While this was fun, this car more fun doing 0–60 every day. Finally, as a full-time firefighter I had the experience of driving 23-ton pumps on fire responses in all types of traffic at fairly high rates of speed with emergency lights and sirens every shift. Later in my career I drove smaller fire vehicles on responses to all major fires, accidents, and rescue calls at high rates of speed. Because they were not as big and noticeable as fire trucks, other vehicles on the road were not as quick to get out of the way. So in each instance, speed was a factor, but not necessarily the most exciting one.
Lots of great choices in supercars, and luxury cars listed, but for an overall combination of speed, power, handling, passenger and cargo carrying ability, reliability, versatility, handling in any and all weather and road conditions, safety, fun to drive, advanced engine technology, and affordability (meaning it is a high performance sporty vehicle actually affordable to those who are not super wealthy) a Subaru WRX STI with a 300 HP 2.5 liter (4 cylinder boxer)engine, turbocharged, with six speed manual transmission AWD and custom configurable traction control is my favorite car, and one of the ,best cars in the world,. It is a true performance sports car in handling and speed; few other cars have highly reliable and high output horizontally opposed boxer engines (Porches), but they are far more expensive and also very costly to have serviced. In stock form you get the rear wing, but take that off and it will not attract the local cops looking for speeders unlike most sportscars and performance cars. The standard rally proven suspension and AWD system in the Subaru WRX makes it unique for a very fast, affordable and everyday driver vehicle that excels in handling pavement, mud, gravel, ice, snow, sand, bumps, curves, off camber roadways, dangerous shoulders, and anything else you can drive it on. (If you manage to get off the pavement likely you can get back on it without a tow.) With a modified exhaust it is one of the best sounding engines on the road. Acceleration and going through the gears is a kick. The AWD allows high speed cornering that would cause many two wheel drive cars to spin or crash. You can safely drive very fast on roads and terrain that would beat the crap out of most cars and still maintain an amazing level of control at high rates of speed; (70 mph on a slippery, narrow, bumpy and uneven gravel road feels like you are driving on a highway), and on pavement on twisty mountain roads a Subaru WRX will run with or beat many highly expensive luxury sports and performance cars. In extreme situations such as accident avoidance a Subaru WRX will brake and spin out flat like a race car, (without rolling) and can take a very hard impact without harm to the driver or passengers and still keep running (personal experience spinning out on black ice and hitting guardrail at 50 mph), and will get you safely home when the snow falls and the roads get icy without needing tire chains or getting stuck and waiting for a tow truck. In stock form the 0–60 time is close to some high dollar supercars, and roadholding and handing is phenomenal as has been proven in rally racing worldwide. The engines can modified and built up to over 400 HP and that puts the WRX into supercar territory. Because of the overall toughness of build quality throughout, and the basic physics of how the boxer engines work, reliability is exceptional and Subarus can be easily be driven over a hundred thousand miles (mine is at 150K miles) as long as they are well maintained. A WRX is a great value new, with the AWD and turbo charged performance, with great handling, and also holds its value well compared to most other cars. I prefer the older 2006–7 Subarus with the original 2.5 liter engine, as they have been rally tested and are incredibly tough and reliable if you are looking for a used high performance car. Long term cost of ownership can be higher than the average economy sedan, gas mileage is OK but not great, (the frame and suspension and body are relatively heavy and strong) and CV joint replacement can be costly, but the AWD capability and the crash safety is worth the extra cost in weight and gas mileage. In hatchback version a Subaru Impreza will carry an amazing amount of gear for fun adventuring if you choose to go off highway exploring, and the AWD allows you to get where average 2WD cars could never go, (the caveat being that unless you have modified or lifted or racing suspension they are not meant to be used like Jeeps, and are not meant to be used for heavy off road conditions.) All this and they are still very reliable daily drivers and family cars you can drive to work and still get out on weekends for fun on the twisty back roads or run on a rally course. For bang for the buck and overall driving fun and performance a Subaru WRX is hard to beat.
Absolutely not in most cases. But my definition of safety may be different from yours. My definition of safety is being able to AVOID an accident versus your vehicle’s ability of being able to plow through an accident. Lets compare the numbers that I consider most important for having a safe car: 60–0 mph braking distance: How safe is a car that generally takes longer to stop in an emergency than other cars? Why risk your life and your occupant’s lives rolling the dice to see if you can survive the immense forces placed on your squishy meat bag of a body while hitting another vehicle or some large animal on the road? A well braking vehicle will allow you to stop quickly enough to avoid certain scenarios. Skid pad g: How safe is a vehicle that can’t even turn fast enough, lose traction, or flip over while trying to avoid an accident? Because of having less suspension travel, having less weight to have to fling around, and sometimes even having stickier, sportier/less bubbly tires than an SUV, a car has better chances at maneuvering itself out of a dangerous scenario. Skidpad g is the number of g forces a vehicle will pull before losing traction. The higher the g it can hold, the longer it will stay holding on to the road before losing traction. Have you noticed Skid pad hasn't even been mentioned in the other answers? This is a vehicle’s maneuverability. The higher this number is, the lower the chances are of losing control. Acceleration power: How safe is a vehicle that can’t even get out of the way of an impending hit? Say someone is about to run a red light or stop sign, and you are already halfway through the intersection. Braking would just make matters worse depending on your position. Turning will probably not do you any good. Where will you turn to? Instead of hitting you on the side, you will turn to then possibly be hit on the front or rear? Punch the gas and get out of that other vehicle’s way! Let’s compare numbers of a few cars and sports cars to a few crossovers and SUVs. Cars: Nissan 370z 60–0 mph Braking: 103ft Skidpad: 1.00g 0–60: 4.6 seconds 2020 Camry 60–0 mph Braking: 118ft Skidpad: 0.80g 0–60: 7.3 seconds 2015 VW Golf GTI 60–0 mph Braking: 108ft Skidpad: 0.94g 0–60: 6.2 seconds 2019 VW Jetta GLI 60–0 mph Braking: 109ft Skidpad: 0.98g (manual transmission) 0–60: 5.8s seconds 2015 Subaru WRX STI 60–0 mph Braking: 106ft Skidpad: 0.97g 0–60: 4.6 seconds 2017 Audi A6 3.0 60–0 mph Braking: 109ft Skidpad: 0.93g 0–60: 4.7 seconds 2018 Honda Accord 2.0t 60–0 mph Braking: 116ft Skidpad: 0.88g 0–60: 6.2 seconds SUVs: Ford Escape 60–0 mph Braking: 116ft Skidpad: 0.84g 0–60: 7.3 seconds 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trail hawk 60–0 mph Braking: 139ft Skidpad: 0.76g 0–60: 7.2 seconds 2017 Honda CR-V 60–0 mph Braking: 116ft Skidpad: 0.82g 0–60: 7.5 seconds 2017 Nissan Armada 60–0 mph Braking: 128ft Skidpad: 0.59g 0–60: 7.0 seconds 2018 Ford Expedition 60–0 mph Braking: 129ft Skidpad: 0.76g 0–60: 6.2 seconds 2018 Tahoe RST 60–0 mph Braking: 133ft Skidpad: 0.75g 0–60: 5.7 seconds Sure, you have some smaller SUVs that have almost the same capabilities as a standard car while some smaller SUVs are far worse in some areas. Notice the larger the SUVs get, the longer they take to brake and the worse they are at maneuvering? Wonder how much safer are the more expensive sports cars? 911 GT2 RS 60–0 mph Braking: 87ft Skidpad: 1.17g 0–60: 2.7 seconds Corvette ZR1 60–0 mph Braking: 91ft Skidpad: 1.16g 0–60: 2.85 seconds Sure you can buy a premium sports SUV that retails (or used to) for over $100,000 that has near “affordable” sports car abilities but still can’t compare to the safety offered by sports cars in the same price range. 2015 BMW X5 M 60–0 mph Braking: 104ft Skidpad: 0.96g 0–60: 3.8 seconds Yes, there is data that shows more people survive in SUV crashes than in cars. The problem with this data is that it doesn’t show the number of people that were able to avoid an accident all together because of being in a car. Crash data is exactly just that. It is CRASH data. No one has yet created a “I avoided a close call accident today because of my better maneuvering car” report. In the end, you have to decide if you wish to try to be better at avoiding at an accident all together or knowing you prefer to be able to plow through an accident yet still gambling with the repercussions the accident will have on your body. Personally, I feel a lot safer knowing I will have better chances at avoiding an accident.
The torque number given in a specification is usually the peak torque, given at a particular engine speed. Physically, this is how strong the engine can twist the spinning axle on its output. So theoretically driving at this RPM, you would feel the hardest "oomph" when you mash the gas. However, because cars also have transmissions that can multiply or divide torque depending on gearing, what you actually about is the ,power, output. If you can spin the engine twice as fast and get almost the same amount of twisting force, you can use a 2:1 gearing ratio to get almost double the force at the wheels, by the laws of angular momentum and torque. Here's a chart to explain: The ,torque curve, is the one that peaks earlier, around 4500RPM. The ,power curve, is the one that peaks around 5800RPM. This Subaru WRX STi has a redline of 7000RPM, and the area of maximum power is around 5300-6500RPM, so in this case you'd actually want to shift a bit before redline for 2-3 and 3-4, assuming around a 1000RPM drop per gear after 2nd gear. ,To maximize acceleration, you want to shift when you can make more power in the next gear than the previous gear.,  If you were driving at 6900RPM, you're making less power than 5800, so shift up. A common misconception is that higher torque = better acceleration (not true), it's power that ultimately determines acceleration. This is a turbocharged car with a relatively low peak power and broader power band - most likely the turbo is less efficient/unable to increase power effectively at super high RPMs. Modifications to exhaust can improve this and likely reduce the high-end power drop off. People describe cars as very "torquey" or very "peaky". Torquey means the car has a lot of low-end torque: large V-8 motors, diesel engines, American muscle cars are known for having good low-end torque. Here's an example of a very peaky motor with "no torque": The Honda Civic Si. Notice how the torque curve is nearly flat with a big bump at the VTEC crossover of 5800RPM (the motor switches between two types of cams with different optimizations, one for power, one for fuel economy). Basically the whole time you're making more power the higher you rev, so this a typical peaky, rev-happy motor you spin to redline all day. Here is an example of a super torquey motor with "no revs": BMW 330D. The two upper lines are horsepower (red is before an exhaust modification, blue is after,) the two lower lines are torque. Notice how torque basically starts falling off after 2500RPM, and you lose power extremely quickly las you keep revving higher. Physics here: So ultimately what's most useful for driving is knowing the power curve: Because power is directly proportional to engine speed and rotational velocity, we can use torque at a given engine RPM to calculate power. In metric units, torque is N*m and power is watts, so torque * angular velocity = power (N*m* rad/s) = watts. In U.S. units (horsepower, lb-ft) the conversions are a lot more complicated, but the concept is the same. (Note: In U.S. units, horsepower and torque will always cross over at 5252RPM, because after all the crazy conversion ratios, horsepower = torque * RPM / 5252)  If you're trying to hit a particular target, like 0-60 or 1/4 mile, a super fast manual shift is about 0.25-0.3s, so if by eliminating one shift you sacrifice a bit of acceleration, it's usually worth it
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