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why won't my adaptive cruise control work Q&A Review

Why are my RTR Grille Lights for my 15 Mustang not working? This is the 3rd replacement I get, and they won’t turn on, I checked all the plugs, and still nothing.

I haven’t installed any, but I read some reviews here: ,RTR Mustang Grille w/ LED Accent Vent Lights 389944 (15-17 GT, EcoBoost, V6) - Free Shipping, and it sounds like at least a few other people had the same problem. My guess is you might be having problems with the LED driver box. I couldn’t find the install instructions for the RTR ones but I found them for a similar kit from CDC ,http://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/CDC-1511701501.pdf, assuming yours work the same, your problem is probably with the switchback driver. Because all of it is LED it needs such a small amount of voltage to run it has to get reduced down with something like the LED driver or switchback driver in those CDC instructions. It reduces the voltage for the new lights but the normal lights probably reduce as well, AFTER the new ones so it has to “switchback”. Most of those reviews described a flicker and eventually it would just stop working. If that’s what yours did, the problem is probably in the LED driver. If your wiring is how it should be, consider seeing what it would take to power it from an external switch directly instead of with your headlight switch. If you keep the stock headlight wiring stock and run new wires to it you might be able to eliminate some of the problems. Don’t just hook it up to the battery though, find out if it takes a full 14 volts going to it or not. There was a warning about it not working with adaptive cruise control, it could be that... *just a guess.

Is Tesla better than BMW?

Well, they’re both good. They’re both cars with their differences, but also both VERY comfortable. We love them. I own a 2018 Tesla Model S and a 2014 BMW 5-Series Touring, so I feel qualified to answer. Both cars have their ups and downs: Tesla Driving. Driving a Tesla is just very different from driving any other car. Its instant acceleration and power is just insane, but it also does a really good job at driving comfortable at a low speed. Especially with the adaptive air suspension. Silence while driving. When you’re on the motorway, just cruising, the Tesla is just so much quieter. It gives a more comfortable experience. Charging. If We want to fully charge our Tesla, and have a range of 470 km (292 miles), it costs us about 8 euro (9 dollars). The BMW on the other hand… costs us 80 euro for a full tank. Infotainment screen. The Tesla’s big 17 inch screen is just so much better than the BMW’s. Not only is it larger, but also easier to use. It’s got more functions too. The Tesla has its own web browser and LTE connectivity, which makes it possible to acces my files on Word. In a car. On an infotainment screen. Amazing. Autopilot. Tesla’s Autopilot is just amazing. My dad uses Autopilot 80% of the time while driving to work. It does an excellent job at keeping distance to the person in front at me, and also at braking and steering. What I must say though: it’s not flawless either. Sometimes it will make little mistakes when making a turn, so you have to take over and do it yourself. It’s just an assistant, not a self-driving system. BMW Build quality. The BMW’s build quality is just a little bit better than the Tesla’s. The Tesla has frameless doors, which means the windows have to open a little so it won’t hit the trim above the window. But occasionally they don’t open far enough. So sometimes when I open the passenger door the window hits the gloss trim, which is just really unsatisfying and it also gives a squeaky noise. Also things like interior materials; there’s no thing in the BMW that can be touched that doesn’t feel premium. Climate. The Tesla is electric, so it needs more time to warm up the car in a cold winter. And when it’s warmed up (which usually takes about 15 min) it’s not even that warm. It’s not cold, but it’s certainly not warm either. And, the heated seats in the Tesla just plain suck. They take a lot of time to warm up, and they’re not even that warm too. So when driving a Tesla in the winter, don’t expect to be in a comfy warm cabin. The BMW does all of the above exactly opposite. It’s warm in no-time, and the heated seats grill your butt when turned on. Adaptive cruise control. The BMW has this function, and it is really nice. The Tesla does too, and it can even make turns by itself. But! When driving on a 2 lane road the Tesla will sometimes brake by itself, because it thinks oncoming traffic will crash into it, and this is very annoying. The Tesla does this even when Autopilot isn’t engaged. The BMW never does this; and just keeps comfortably cruising along. Lights. We have the facelifted Tesla, which means that we have the LED headlights. They’re doing a good job, but the lights in the BMW are way better. The high beam assistant always works perfect, and the lights are just brighter in general. And, when making a turn, the BMW’s lights turn with you so you can see where you’re going. That was it, thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed. Personally I prefer the Tesla, because it’s just an amazing car to drive, and technologically much more advanced. We regularly get new features via over the air software-updates, which are totally free. The BMW is a great car too, I wouldn’t wanna get rid of it. Such a relaxed car. It’s a pleasure to drive these cars every day. EDIT: The Tesla also has a con that I thought of later. And that is: You will always get attention from people when you own a Tesla. ,Positive or negative. In my environment (high school), that is mostly negative. Let me explain why: A Tesla is an expensive car. That’s a fact, and you can’t change that. But owning and having this expensive car, gives people an “image” of you. Everyone in my class knows that my father owns a Tesla, (because one of my friends told everyone) and all they can see is the price tag of this car and then assume that we’re rich. They don’t know any better. In some situations, this is very awkward. When the teacher is discussing something about money or expensive things, people always look at me. I find that very annoying and also kind of inappropriate. My father owning this car led to me being known as the rich kid in my school, and I hate it personally. I wouldn’t want to fully blame it on my dad having this car, but it did surely contribute to the fact that I am now known as the rich kid.

What is the best car or SUV I can by for $26,000?

I’m retired, but I work at a rental company part-time. The job doesn’t pay much, but my favorite perk is that I get to drive pretty much all of the mainline cars in the United States. I prefer sedans, but here is my list ranking of my favorite SUV’s, based on ride quality, safety features and good mileage. 1. Hyundai Tucson- well equipped at base level, smooth ride and excellent gas mileage, plus a fantastic 60,000 miles warranty and the best value for the dollar spent. 2. Ford Escape- good handling, strong engine, best looking interior in light colors, feels stable and stately. Doesn’t get good mileage, though! 3. Toyota Rav4- the current one - Although I’m not excited by its looks, it is the most sold SUV for a reason. It has lots of cargo space compared to the CX5, it comes with lane keep assist, adaptive cruise control and accident avoidance braking standard (most of the others make you move up the trim line (pay more), to get these features. 4. Mazda CX5- it is my favorite because it really does offer the best and sportiest handling of this group, it is absolutely a blast to drive. However, the rear cargo space is smaller than many of its competitors. It gets good mileage and it feels solid. 5- Honda CRV- It is the most spacious and has safety features, which is why I like it. But the plastic like interior, and that tiny turbo engine did not impress me in any way. Go a site like “truecar.com” where you can see basic pricing and configure the vehicle choice to your liking. But remember, the only two that automatically come with active safety features on all trim levels are the Honda CRV and the current Toyota RAV 4. Note: The Rav4 is about to be replaced, so you may get some really good discounts on it. I reread your question and realized you included cars in it! Toyota Camry, hands down, is my number one choice! I have a nice Sonata (I like four door), but drove a new Camry recently and was immediately ready to trade my Hyundai. Drove the Camry on a 4 day, 1200 mile trip. It achieved highway mileage of 37 to 41 miles a gallon. It handled better and had noticeably perkier acceleration than my Sonata, or the Nissan Altima, The Camry has great seat and steering wheel adjustment and doesn’t feel as big to drive from the inside as it looks on the outside. A car jumped in front of me, the Camry immediately slammed down its speed, before I could do it, avoiding an accident. Wow! Second suggestion, the VW Passat. It’s like a driving an Audi at half the price, for its great steering, although the interior is kind of basic. Number three, would be the Kia Optima. Although Kia is part of the Hyundai family, they produce cars that leans toward the sporty driving feel, versus the Sonata’s smoother rider approach. Ford Fusion, is the best American driver car, but Ford is saying they will stop making them, so I won’t recommend it. Almost forgot, if I had to buy today, the Accord, which I consider the best looking of the bunch, would be a choice. My only fear is that new ‘small displacement turbo 4 engine’. The regular Honda engines had good history (I drove an Accord from 3 miles to over 317,000 miles). Not comfortable with tiny turbo engines. Note-Camry is whipping the new Accord’s butt by more than 30% in sales, I think. I feel switching to the unfamiliar turbo technology is part of the problem. Again, these are cars I’ve actually driven extensively. Happy hunting.

Why do I need a cheap car?

1. I like money I like nice cars, but I love money much more. If we were shopping for a car, I’d pick something not too expensive again. It’s all about priority. Right now, saving is more important than a car. Maybe that will change someday. Luxury and performance are nice, but they are not that high on my priority right now. Having money to invest is way better. Investment will appreciate. A car will only depreciate. 2. Less depreciation A new car starts depreciating as soon as you drive it off the lot. In general, a new car is worth just 40% of what you paid after 5 years. If you paid $37,500, that’s $22,500 down the drain. You’ll lose less money with a cheaper vehicle. My Mazda5 depreciated about $10,500 in 5 years. I don’t like losing money, but I’m losing way less than the average new car. A better way to win the depreciation game is to buy used or a classic car. Used cars already lost a lot of value so depreciation won’t be that painful. The right classic car can hold its value or even appreciate over time. 3 Dings and dents Believe or not, we used to have a BMW Z3 roadster. I used to get so mad when I see a new ding or dent on that car. Why are people so inconsiderate with their car doors? Now that we have a cheaper car, dings and dent don’t bother me that much anymore. We have to park on the street after we moved so it’s great to a little apathetic. Bumpers are meant to be used in this neighborhood. Accidents are even worse. A bicyclist ran into the back of our Mazda earlier this month. The bike made a big hole and several dents. The cost of repair is $4,600. That’s crazy! Fortunately, their insurance paid up. I’ll DIY the repair and I pocketed the payout. The total cost of supplies is about $50. That’s $4,750 in the bank. Oh yeah. (The insurance gave us an extra $200 to rent a car for 5 days.) When you have a cheap car, it doesn’t have to look great as long as it runs well. If this happened to the BMW, I’d probably fix it up instead of pocketing the cash. 4. Maintenance is cheaper One lesson I learned from owning a BMW is that repair and maintenance are absurdly expensive for luxury brands. It seems like every time I took it in, the dealer charged over $1,000. I also felt more pressure to take the BMW to the dealer. With our Mazda5, I don’t mind going to a local garage and see what they can do. Maintenance cost way less with a regular car than luxury cars. For example, I paid about $400 for a set of new tires a couple of years ago. New tires would have cost much more for the BMW Z3. Those performance tires are sticker, wider, and skinner – more expensive. 5. Stealth Another reason why I love our Mazda5 is that it is so anonymous. A gray minivan is basically invisible to the highway patrol. I haven’t gotten a ticket for years now. IMO, a flashy new car is much more likely to attract a speeding ticket. The police officer naturally points the speed gun to a flashy car first when a group of car appears. By the time he switches to my car, I’d have slowed down. Oh, I also make sure not to be the fastest car on the freeway nowadays. That’s probably more important. 6. Side hustle You can use your cheaper car to work side gigs with no quam. You could be an Uber driver, deliver pizza, or share out the car. I’d hesitate to do any of those if I have a nice car. 7. Cheaper license and registration fees This one doesn’t apply to everyone. We have a flat registration fee here in Oregon. However, some states use the value of the vehicle to calculate the registration fee. In California, you’ll pay more if your car is worth more. A cheaper car means paying less for license and registration. 8. Cheaper insurance I always assumed those expensive cars cost more to insure. According to CBS, the 10 most expensive cars to insure are all luxury makes – Mercedes, BMW, Aston Martin, and Porsche. It looks like I’m mostly right. Regular cars are less expensive to ensure than luxury models. Another way to lower insurance expense is to go without collision and comprehensive coverage. Our Mazda5 is 9 years old and it isn’t worth that much. I canceled collision and comprehensive insurance a long time ago. Collision insurance – helps pay to repair or replace your car if it’s damaged in an accident with another vehicle or object. Comprehensive insurance – helps pay to repair or replace your vehicle if it is stolen or damaged in an incident that is not a collision. 9. No need to baby it I have a question for those of you with expensive cars. What do you do when you need to haul a few bags of compost home or bring a moldy cabinet to the dump? Do you just toss it in the back like I do? It’s just easier with a cheaper vehicle. The nastiest thing we ever did with the car was to haul our old toilets to the recycling center. Yuk! I wouldn’t do that in a nice BMW X5. Would you? I guess if you are wealthy enough to have a luxury car, you can pay people to haul crap to the dump. My contractor wanted $100 to dispose of an old cabinet for me. That’s ridiculous. I spent 5 minutes breaking it apart with a hammer then dropped it off at the dumpster. That’s a $100 saved. 10. Luxury features are not a big deal Luxury and performance aren’t a big deal to me. As long as a car is reliable and has a good safety rating, that’s enough. I don’t drive fast so performance doesn’t matter. I don’t care about the luxury features either. Leather seats, – Cloth is good enough. I don’t need to sit on a dead cow to drive. Proximity key, – Come on. You can’t push a button? That’s why we have thumbs. In the old days, we had to use a key to open the door. Now that’s barbaric. Adaptive cruise control, – I only used cruise control when we drive long distance, probably 2-3 times per year. The old-style cruise control is good enough for me. Adaptive cruise control probably would make me sleepier anyway. Backup camera, – Ok, Mrs. RB40 would love this. I don’t need one, though. That’s what the bumper is for. Heated steering wheel, – Seriously? How did people survive before this feature? Toughen up! Seat warmer/cooler, – This one sounds good to me. Although, I probably wouldn’t use it much. Portland doesn’t get that hot or cold. Also, cloth seats don’t get that cold like leather seats. I don’t need it.

When will self-driving cars be available to consumers?

The simple ignition switch was patented over 100 years ago and has been manufactured for decades; but in 2014 GM (one of the worlds oldest, biggest, auto manufacturers) ,recalled 30 million vehicles, for faulty ignition switches that could cause the engine to turn off while driving, potentially resulting in a crash and turning off the airbags at the same time. The Japanese company Takata started making airbags in the 1980s and controls 20% of the global market share; but in recent years, it was the cause of over, 40 million recalls, — in the US alone — to correct a problem that, literally killed people,. The tailgate opener on my 2014 Jeep has only worked intermittently since it was brand new, and the transmission required half a dozen updates from the dealer to shift properly (automatic transmissions and motorized tailgates are also not exactly new, cutting edge, technologies). There are countless other well known recalls and widely known issues I could point to, as well. Fully self-driving cars will, unfortunately, not be mainstream for decades,, in my opinion (as a mechanic, lawyer, and techie). 2030 at earliest. That is, if we mean cars that would allow the driver to nap or do other things instead of waiting at attention in case the car needs to hand back control to the driver. See ridiculous hypothetical below. The technology will get better fast, like all technology does. However, our infrastructure and our legal system and our insurance frameworks will take decades to catch up,. Most importantly (and strangely not talked about), though, is the fact that, most auto manufacturers are terrible at reliability of even relatively simple parts,. What makes us think that they will all be perfect as soon as the self driving technology is ready? There will also be a critical mass issue, where truly self-driving cars will only work once most cars on the road are self-driving. Getting to that tipping point will take a while. We already have some autonomous technologies that are great and will only get better. Adaptive cruise control, lane keep assist, and self-parking are already available (and work very well) on mainstream (non-luxury) cars. Those technologies — spearheaded by Tesla’s autopilot and similar systems from BMW and Mercedes — will keep getting better. They will work in more and more situations (speeds, weather conditions, traffic patterns). However, it will be a VERY long time before the driver can literally doze off and let the car drive them home. Drivers will still need to be ready to take over and interject if anything unexpected happens. I love new technology and would love to be as optimistic as all the other answers to this question, but our society and legal framework don’t work that way. The software will get better FAST, but the world won’t be ready and most manufacturers have not shown any reason to be confident in their ability to let us literally fall asleep at the wheel and trust their product to drive us safely at highway speeds. The coverage of this topic focuses on the technology aspect of it, which is truly exciting. I have no doubt that the likes of Tesla, Google, and Uber can take this technology to the next level in a few years time. The problem is, a car is not an app. It is an intensive product to manufacture with countless opportunities for errors along the way. And our legal framework is nowhere near setup to handle all the issues that will come with all of that. As a society we are nowhere near prepared to handle the following simple hypotheticals, and that means we are nowhere near prepared to underwrite insurance policies to cover them, which means they won’t be legal on the road: If Lyft develops self driving software that its joint venture partner, GM, wants to use in its cars, which are manufactured in a Mexican factory the factory is owned by a GM subsidiary, that relies on cameras from Mobileye, which are designed in Israel and manufactured by a Chinese contractor, and those cameras are not packaged correctly in Taiwan the Greek cargo ship they cross the Pacific on is reckless in how it deals with bad weather, jostling the poorly packaged cameras before they are installed by a factory worker in the Mexico plant who forgot to wear the special gloves required to handle the cameras — even though they visibly look fine and the Lyft software self diagnosis says they work and a driver who has maybe had just a little too much to drink — but not enough to be over the legal limit — wants to rely on the self driving system in his brand new GM car to get him home safely and the car hits a ridiculously deep pothole that was not addressed by the backlogged city transportation department and even though the car’s cameras worked before, the vibration from the pothole exacerbated the loose connection caused by the jostling it received on the container ship in unexpected bad weather, which woudln’t have been an issue if it was packaged properly GM found out about the poor packaging and thought about a recall but Lyft’s self diagnostic software said the cameras were fine and as a result the car’s software lost input from the camera mid-maneuver and failed to properly rely on the other cameras to correct the issue fast enough to avoid hitting a small child whose parent was inattentive while texting about a death in the family, allowing the child to cross an intersection illegally. who would be liable? what would that insurance claim look like? which insurance company would even be involved? This ridiculous hypothetical looks like a law school final exam, but the question will have to be answered after the first freak accident that involves a recalled part and negligence by multiple parties involved. Is the driver simply liable for anything that happens because he thought he was too drunk to “drive” even though his blood test proved he was below the legal limit? Was the driver’s insurance policy supposed to contemplate the newest self driving technology? Was Lyft’s software negligent in its assumptions/self diagnosis? Was GM negligent in its oversight of its foreign manufacturing plant? Was Mobileye negligent in its product packaging standards required for the cameras, or was it the foreign contractor’s fault for not following directions even though it would have been fine if there was no bad weather during transport? There are a million other hypothetical situations that need to be solved for before self driving cars will take over your morning commute. The technology itself is the easy part.

What does an embedded systems engineer actually do in a job?

Some embedded system engineers just design the hardware, some others are embedded system programmers and just write firmware. I sometimes do one or the other, or both. System Design A embedded system systems engineer would first start out looking at the specification of a product, and if management had not already dictated what processor was going to be used (which is too often the case), then the engineer would first decide what processor family would be appropriate for the job. Usually this will be a decision between an 8-bit microcontroller or a 32-bit; 16-bit micros are not as popular anymore. The market for 8-bitters is still about the same as 32-bit; namely because they usually cost about 20% less (given the same memory requirements), and use less power. The processor decision will be largely based on much data processing needs to be done inside the chip. A simple appliance with just a few buttons and a couple of outputs (LEDs and motors) doesn’t need a 32-bit processor. But a complex project, say one needing to do voice recognition, would need as much horsepower as possible, perhaps benefiting from ,DSP, instructions. Program memory might range anywhere from the 265 12-bit words of a ,PIC10F200,, with 16 ,bytes, of SRAM, to the 2 MB flash in a ,PIC32MZ2064DA,, with 512KB of SRAM and 32 ,MB ,of DDR2 RAM on chip. See ,Tom Crosley's answer to How do engineers pick microcontrollers for a project?, for more about picking a microcontroller. Then the rest of the system has to be designed. Battery or plug-in power? What kind of display, if any? If a display, is it touch-screen? In any case, what buttons may be needed? What are the other I/O requirements? Is the device wireless? Does it need USB or an SD card interface? Etc., etc. Once a block diagram is complete, the engineer then starts to flesh out the system by beginning a schematic and choosing parts to go into a BOM (bill of materials). It only makes sense to choose parts that are going to be available in the quantities needed. Schematic Capture and PCB Layout An engineer doesn’t have to create every circuit from scratch. Once a processor has been chose, there will often be development boards or evaluation boards from the manufacturer of the chip, and the user’s manual for those will include a schematic that can be used as a guide. Various peripheral and power supply chips also may have evaluation boards, or at the very least, include a reference design in their documentation.. The engineer creates a schematic using a schematic capture program like ,Altium Designer, or ,Autodesk EAGLE,. If there are any tricky analog parts to the design, they may simulate that part of the circuit using a program like ,SPICE, OR ,LTspice, if power components need to be simulated. Once a schematic is complete, the engineer does a PCB layout. This usually is done with the same package that created the schematic. Layouts can be done automatically (,autorouting,) or manually; I have often used a combination of the two while others prefer to do everything manually. PCB Assembly The next step is to have boards made, by a board fabricator such as ,Advanced Circuits,, an outfit I have used many times. Usually just a few boards are made to start with, say 8 or 12. (Because setup costs dominate low end runs, getting a dozen made doesn’t cost much more than a couple of boards.) Once the boards are made, they have to be assembled. One can do a couple boards themselves if they are relatively simple, but if there are a lot of ,surface mount components,, especially ones with hidden pins, it is best to have them made for you. First Article Testing Once ,first articles ,are back, it is time to test them. This usually means first checking all of the supply rails are okay. On a simple design, it may be only one main voltage — 5v or 3.3v. I once had a complex board with a dozen different power supply rails, both positive and negative, half of them needed by the LCD. The next step is to fire up the microcontroller. (Not literally, hopefully.) When designing the board, the engineer would have made provisions to program the microcontroller over an ,ICSP, (in circuit serial programming) interface. A first test might be to just blink an LED on the board, if there is one. Or just reach a breakpoint in the code. Once the microcontroller has been shown able to execute code, then one needs to check each of the subsections of the board, one at a time, usually by writing little pieces of firmware to do this. On board devices are usually connected using I2C, SPI or UART interfaces. While waiting for the boards to come back (which might take a couple of weeks, unless you are willing to spend extra for rush delivery), then an engineer might have already started on the design and coding of production firmware, perhaps using a development board to run pieces of it on without all the final peripherals. Production Firmware Most likely, there is no operating system — this is known as running on “bare metal”. On more complex projects, there might be a real time operating system such as as ,FreeRTOS,. In any case, the engineer may be dealing with peripheral interfaces such as GPIO ports, I2C, SPI, I2S, UART, USB, ADC, DAC, DMA, timers, etc. The list goes on and one. See ,Tom Crosley's answer to What are the peripherals in a microcontroller?, for a more complete list. This is why electrical engineers usually are better adapted to embedded programming than computer science majors with no electronics experience. There are some frameworks available — like Microchip’s ,MPLAB Harmony, for their PIC32 chips — that provide API’s for these interfaces, so you don’t have to deal directly with the registers, but then engineer to understand how to use each of the protocols. I have typically left more complex I/O components, such as wireless modems, USB and TCP/IP stacks, etc. to be tested as part of the production firmware. Or they could be done earlier. I won’t go into the details of firmware development; there’s been plenty written about that. In addition to designing and coding the project, there will be a lot of testing. and debugging. Debugging real-time embedded systems can get pretty tricky, since it may be impossible to duplicate the bug by stepping through the program with breakpoints. This is one aspect of the job that might take you out into the field. Many years ago, I designed a cruise control for a Hyundai sedan, and spent hours riding around in the back set of a car with a development system and a chart recorder powered by an inverter, while the project manager was driving up and down mountain roads. Before releasing a product, it’s best to have other engineers test your firmware. In the company I am currently working for, where each engineer is responsible for several applications, each of us cross-test the other’s work. In other organizations where I have worked, there were dedicated testers that did this function. FCC Testing Once the initial version of the production firmware is complete, it is time for FCC testing of the board. If the board has no “intentional” radiators, i.e. it does not include any wireless components, then it is only necessary to test that it doesn’t emit enough harmful emissions to affect other equipment; and, at the same time, it can function in the presence of such interference from other devices (,Part 15 testing, in the US). If a device does have wireless components, such as a cellular modem, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth, then all of these must be testing. If any tests fail, sometimes board changes have to be made, requiring a “spin” of the board, i.e. new boards fabricated, assembled and tested. Other stuff The engineer’s job is not done yet. Whether working on the hardware or firmware or both, source files such as schematics, PCB layouts, source code etc. need to be tracked. This is usually done with a source code control system, such as ,Git,. It can take as much time learning to use it properly as a new programming language. There is also other documentation, such as user manuals, 510k submittals to the FDA for medical devices, patent applications etc. which the engineer may be need to supply input for. I’m currently writing device drivers for an ARM processor, so part of my job when I’m done is to write up the formal application programming interface (API) documentation for each of the functions that make up each driver which will get published. After a product is out in the field, an engineer may be involved in customer support, either by phone, or emails, or answering questions in a company-sponsored forum. Occasionally devices may come back in that require failure analysis. In small companies, one person may be doing ,all ,of the above, as I have on several projects. Or it might be split up between a hardware person, who does the schematic design, layout, first article testing including some test firmware routines; and firmware-only engineer(s) that are still acquainted with the schematic, can use an oscilloscope, multimeter, and other test equipment as necessary.

What’s the one big no-no that will make you walk out of an auto dealership?

Lie. There are a number of ways this can go. Some of them are obvious (as have been shown in other answers) some of them are really subtle. I’m going to talk about a number of these tactics that I have witnessed, what made me leave certain dealerships, and what made me buy from others. I will say, if I’m able to make an absolute steal out from under a dealer, I’ll do that, even if they are super shady, but that is the exception, not the rule no matter who you are. Some examples of dealers I won’t ever deal with again: Used car dealership attached to a mechanic., These are already often scam machines. But even the ones that aren’t can be quite… problematic. The classic story of the used car salesman making fake blunders and accidental offers and then “sticking to them” is common in these kind of shops, but this one was special. I took a subaru hatchback (don’t remember the model) stick shift for a test drive. I went up and down the local roads, and for the life of me couldn’t find 2nd gear. I found first, third, fourth. I’m to this day convinced that the collar was damaged and 2nd gear was no longer available on that transmission. I brought it back and said it was interesting that he was asking about $500 over KBB’s best price since it was so clearly in bad shape. I was able to list off about 2 dozen repair items just standing there, and that was before I had my mechanic take a look at it. His answer: “My cars run well. Their bodies are old, and may have some cosmetic issues, but they’ll treat you right.” Uh huh… the cosmetic issues were nothing. I found out later that this mechanic specifically bought cars at auction, got the engine running and made sure nothing was leaking, and then sold for a small markup on the cost to do those things. Actually book value or anything else never factored in. That’s why I was able to buy a 10 year old Taurus off of him for 1/2 of KBB that lasted me another good 4 years at reasonable repair cost. Because I knew roughly what to look for, I was able to find the diamond in the rough on his lot. But from that answer, I knew I would not trust him one bit, and made sure I paid with a cashiers check (instead of the cash he was hoping for). Used car dealership associated with nearby major dealership., I didn’t know the association at the time. My brother was looking for a car, and I was along with him since his knowledge of cars started and ended with “Oil change every 3k miles and add fuel when the light comes on.” Every car we looked at had issues. It took me a bit to realize these were all trade-ins which no mechanic had touched. They had simply been bought as a trade-in and moved to this lot. The salesman was pretty offended when I kept listing the major current mechanical issues (and the approximate cost to fix the obvious stuff) of each car after we test-drove it. He told me that they probably didn’t have the car I was looking for after the third such incident. Instead of looking at their stock and finding something in better shape (which I don’t know if they had) he just shooed us out of the dealership. Well, if you don’t want someone who knows your product is shit, I guess I will go somewhere else. And now, the dealership that I will probably return to time and time again: Honest, upfront, list price on the windshield, on the computer, and on the printouts, as well as first year taxes and KBB value., Ok, this dealership had their shit figured out. First of all, they are a no-haggle shop, but they have earned it. They showed you outright that they were selling at or below market value. More importantly, they were often well below. But you know what the best part is, not once did they make me feel like just a number. So let me tell you about my buying experience. The aforementioned Taurus had sprung it’s third coolant leak in 6 months. It was done. It was time for it to go. I had gotten about 40k miles out of it, and overall it had almost 250k (I think I sold it at 230k). It was a good car, but it was ,done,. So I went to this dealership because I know they had treated my brother well (another story). I went in with a running car which I could continue to use for the next 2–3 weeks if I needed to. In short, I did not need to buy right now. I knew that, and that freed me from being at risk of any “sticking” tactics, though they didn’t use any. I walked in the door to the dealership and was quickly greeted by one sales person who apologized that she was busy but would get me someone asap. Before I fully processed that, she had found me another sales person who walked up and asked how he could help. I told him that I was considering replacing my at this point very old vehicle with something a little less old. He smiled, and said, “let’s go take a look at what we have. What kind of budget are you thinking today?” Great start, standard sales practice, figure out what I can/cannot/will not buy. I shared with him my nominal on-hand sum as well as that I was willing to consider financing for the right car. My credit isn’t great but I thought it was probably good enough for this, but I’ve never financed a car before. His answer was to pull up 2 groups of cars. He pulled up cars that with license and title, we could drive off the lot in cash. He also pulled up cars that we could finance and helped us do a quick and dirty monthly payment estimate based on our credit scores. And with that we narrowed the field of financed cars down a bit as the top end ones were just too much (though we could have afforded them, we like having extra in our budget). We asked if he could run the finance application so we could get a more firm answer on monthly payment (since APR is highly variable) and he seemed surprised, but did so without issue. The finance guy came over, with a list of loan offers from various banks, complete with a number of price point / monthly payment / period options for each. This was the best part, some banks were offering better short term loans (low apr if short commitment) while a few others were offering better long term loans. In short, we had a pick of options, and we settled into a rough range of what we could do with the monthly budget we were comfortable with. The salesguy pulled up the list and said, “So, any of these interest you?” There was never a “are you going to buy something now?” or even an expectation that we would test drive. After a bit, we settled on a nice shiny red Nissan Sentra that was 2 years old, CPO, and was in our budget. We went for a test drive and I came back with a kind of mixed feeling. My wife asked what was wrong, and I said “nothing in particular, it’s a good car, we should probably go for it.” The sales person however, also picked up that I wasn’t quite happy with it. He said that he didn’t really want to sell me a car that I wasn’t excited to buy if he could help it. I appreciated the thought but tried to assure him that it was nothing and that it was a good car and I thought it was a good fit for us. He said something about “But not a great fit,” and at that moment I knew I would be buying from this guy, even if it wasn’t today. He was so much more worried about me being happy with the purchase than his commission that he was determined to figure out why. (Note, this dealership uses a unit-count commission, a sale is a sale for them). Finally he worked out of me that I was a little sad that the environmental controls were fully manual and not the automatic ones that I knew some higher trims of that model had. He chuckled a bit and said that yes, that was actually the lowest trim for that model and that it lacked basically all of the “optional” features. He went back to his list and pulled up one car which we had put aside because it was over our determined budget. It was over by $100. To this point we hadn’t discussed our trade-in. He asked about the trade-in and could we use that to push our budget up. I said maybe, but really didn’t want to, and was also concerned because I knew I wanted to purchase the extended warranty. He said, “let’s take a look at this car. I know the price is higher, but let’s start with ‘is it the right car’ and then we’ll get the finance guys involved and see if they can work some voodoo.” I was hesitant because I know that voodoo often means things that actually become more expensive. That said, we looked at the car, and I lit up immediately. It had a bunch of features that I had kinda in the back of my mind wanted, but didn’t dare think I could afford while being reasonable about budget: Navigation Adaptive Cruise Control (They called it Intelligent Cruise Control I think) Blind Spot Monitoring and reverse cross traffic alert Automatic emergency braking. And yes, fully automatic, dual zone, climate control. Ok, I wanted that car. I wanted it bad, but knew it was out of range. So he brought in his manager and one of the finance guys and they took down information about my trade-in. They went in the back and ran numbers and it took them probably 20 minutes but they showed up with an offer. They had pushed the loan term to 65 months (instead of the usual 60) so that our budget had more room. They tacked on the extra warranty, which means I have tip-to-tip full coverage warranty now that will last well past the finance terms. They also went ,over ,KBB on my trade-in despite knowing that it was on its last legs. They did a number of other things that brought my total purchase down (apparently the warranty is negotiable). I also found out that since the car had been registered only 6 months prior, it didn’t need new plates and the registration was cheaper. So I ended up being able to hang onto $100 of what I was originally going to spend up front, got financing below what I wanted monthly, all with terms I was agreeable to. But did I get swindled? No. I did the math on the difference in expected residual value between the two vehicles (never mind which one I wanted) and it is expected to rise, not fall. So my car will be worth more at the end of 65 months by more than the difference in total money spent than the other car would have been. In short, I drove off the lot in a 11 month old car that I was very happy with and got a fair deal in the process. Not only that, but when my budget was stretched, even though they knew that I had more room to stretch it if needed, they made a point to meet my monthly budget goal while helping me get the car I wanted. That is a good dealer. Did they push some more expense to me to do it? Yes, and they were honest up front. They actually showed me the final total with interest of 4 different terms (including 3 year which was never really an option) that included the one they had gotten for me. They showed me how much more I would be paying total to keep my budget where it was. ,I was empowered to make a decision with information,. And that is why I will return to them. They cared more about empowering me to make a decision than shoving a car down my throat, and in the end, that is why they sold me a car. Edit: ,A couple of people have asked for the dealership. It was Morrie’s Nissan in Brooklyn Park, MN. They have a number of other branded dealers throughout the Minneapolis/St. Paul area, and all of them, I’m told, have similar experiences. Their service center is also pretty decent but in my opinion nothing terribly special. They sell everything from used cars up to 150k miles to brand new. Their various branded dealers will sell CPO where possible. The extended warranty company they use is a standard national warranty brand which can be serviced at almost any repair shop.

Why do you prefer manual transmission (stick) over automatic?

I learned to drive on a manual and have been driving manuals for about 40 yrs. I enjoy the felling of really driving the car. But unfortunately I have grown tied of driving one in mostly bumper to bumper traffic on a daily basis. My automatic transmission now does most of the work. With the adaptive cruise control the computer traffic is tolerable. Maybe one day I won't be driving altogether.

If you built your own world superpower military, what would you use?

Aha! ,I love questions like this! ,Free terror for everyone! (Long post ahead, brace yourself - people with tl;dr syndrome be advised). So first of all, I need to my main base of operation - where the entire bureaucracy, training and production of all sorts happen as I merrily take over the world: I/ BASE: With the prowess of my military or the power of the infinite blank cheque in my hand, I would immediately set out to annex or buy off ,Australia,, and yes, New Zealanders, you shall not be spared. ,(No hard feelings bb, ,User-10195336674971721522,). Of course, the entire continent will be the centre of my regime. Why? Australia is a fearsome fortress. One of the reason for this decision is because of Oceania’s fantastic geographical location: Separated literally by thousands of kilometres of deep water from major strategic threats such as the U.S., China or Russia. To give a perspective: Moscow to Canberra ,(Australia’s capital - yes, I know some of you out there are still thinking that Sydney is the Australian’s capital),: ,14,472 kilometres,. Beijing to Canberra: ,9,002 kilometres. Washington D.C. to Canberra: ,15,934 kilometres. That’s some mighty distances, especially when any invading forces must cross ,open water ,the entire way to the Australian’s coast. With some investment on early warning systems I can preemptively prepare and strike even the worst forces they can prepare. Next is because Australia straddles ,(That’s what he said) ,the Equator, foreign troops who are not used to the heat would surely have bad experiences fighting here. And who needs defensive troops when you have… (One minute alone in a room and he gave you this look) Along with many other poisonous, hazardous, muscular, itchy and scary animals the continent has to offer. Like legend said: ,“In Australia, the animals hunt ,you,.” Australia also boasts a relatively rich wealth in natural resources, and the expansive deserts and mountains surely would discourage quite a lot of enemies. It even discourages me as I write this. Its distance to weak countries and islands would be a bonus later on as I finally built up a formidable army and maybe seek to expand my empire. And unlike the majority of the idiots who build their main operation centres in the open, I’ll sign the contract for a self-contained, nuclear-proof military command buried deep in the rocks of a random mountain in the ,Great Dividing Range,. It will be built in the same fashion as the Cheyenne Mountain Complex. But bigger, better and stronger. Even if everyone are bombed to s*** outside I’d probably still be alive coordinating the military. ,Sorry folks! The ,Secretary of Defence ,(SECDEF),’s position will be given to: ,James MacKinnon,. On the first day, under my command, military bases, ports and factories will spring up across the entire nation along with early warning systems and radar spots. (PAVE PAWS [Precision Acquisition Vehicle Entry Phased Array Warning System] site) (AEGIS Ashore’s missile detection system) Get used to seeing a lot of these. Land-based missile silos, too. Just in case someone think dropping a few nukes on my head will ruin my life indefinitely. Loaded with ICBMs carrying a hypersonic ,Multiple Independently Targetable Reentry Vehicle, ,(MIRV),, with yields for each warhead around 50–100 megatons, if someone screwed with me I can screw them right back at ,x10 the damage. (For simple explanation: ,Each of the long streaks you see above is a nuclear warhead,) Dave Consiglio, will be given the nuke’s launch c—…. wait, that’s not a good idea. ,Erm… ,“Head of Missile Defence Initiative’. Composed of couple hundreds ,Terminal High-Altitude Area Defence,’s ,(THAAD) ,batteries. Ground-based Micourse Defence,’s silos and missiles ,(GMD),: Last, ,Medium Extended Air Defence System, ,(MEADS): Technically, the perfect replica of U.S. Missile Defence network, but with the addition of a directed-energy weapon such as the ,LaWS ,(Laser Weapon System),. Of course, unlike the dumb villains who force everyone to conscript - leading to an ineffective and low morale within the military. My army will be voluntary, however, anyone who enlist will receive major benefits and pays since I’m rich asf. Foreigners will definitely be welcomed but they must pass rigorous tests which certainly will be higher than that of regional troops to make it in. They will receive housing and citizenship in the process in the same model as the French’s ,Foreign Legion. Of course, for their voluntary spirit, they will receive a little bit more bonuses than regional troops, this can lead to a larger number of foreigners wanting to join. The Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff ,(CJCS),’s position will be given to: ,User-12187008157292880905,. Just because. ,lol,. Development of intelligence is important, so I’ll begin the launching process of several dozens military satellites to both provide sufficient communication and espionage ability. Meanwhile, new military research laboratories will be built, offering giant pays and incentives to scientists to give me an edge in the long future. I’ll put ,Larry Dixon, in charge. At gun point of course, but still, he’ll be cooperative. …or else. Yep, I’m pretty much set at the homefront. II/ TROOPS: Now before I move on to address the hardwares that my troops would use, I should procure the personal equipment of my troops first: Uniform: ,Crye Precision G3 Combat Set: Available in Multicam, AOR-1 ,(Desert) ,and AOR-2 ,(Woodland),, this will be standard issues. And no, I’m ,not ,going to subject any of my sailors to Navy’s Blueberries. They’ll get bonuses for style. Definitely. Plate Carrier: ,Crye Precision AVS (Adaptive Vest System): The design is modular and can be customised to individual preferences. Which is a plus and a relief for my troops when they go on light operations. Imagine the horror of having to wear a 30 lbs. vest standing guard just outside of the gate for hours in the Sun. They’ll thank me. For special operations, I’ll procure for them the smaller Jumpable Plate Carrier ,(JPC): Ballistic Helmet: ,Ops-Core FAST /w attached RAC Headset. Not only it will provide my troops with compactness, lightness and adequate protection, the built-in RAC headset will save them from quite a lot of troubles having to own an individual ear protector / communicator. Night Vision Goggles: ,GPNVG-18: Since money’s no problem, this will be standard issue. These are the wearable equipment, now to the arms: Service Rifle: ,FN SCAR ,(,S,pecial Operations ,C,ombat ,A,ssault ,R,ifle) ,- both L and H variant. (Shudder… that beard makes me feel ten times as manly just by looking at it). Capable of firing both 5.56 (L) and 7.62 (H) NATO rounds, it’s a flexible design that can harvest the full power of both types. It’s also available in many barrel lengths and sizes. Reliable, though not particularly cheap - ,but it’s not a factor here, so meh, - powerful and adaptable, it’s a worthy one. I initially went for the H&K-416 but thought better of it. Service Pistol:, Beretta M9A3: Good 9mm, I don’t stress much on stopping power just because close-quarter combat is a rarity anyway, and if your life is so shit to the point you’re in one with your rifle disabled: You need a lot of firepower rather than stopping power. Stopping power only works when you hit, but in situations such as that, you definitely will spray and pray. A reduced magazine loaded with fat bullets won’t solve that. Other: M-82 Barrett. This thing = No contest. M-249 Squad Automatic Weapon: For all suppressive fire needs. M-1011 Semi-Automatic Sniper System: For Designated Marksman’s usage. And a lot more, but that’s the gist of it. Since I give them the best equipment available, they must also demonstrate that they can use them as best as they could. Head of Training and Indoctrination I would give to ,Asher Evans,. The training regimes for individual infantries will be much harsher and technical than the rest, even for the U.S. All enlists and officers, besides receiving mandatory programmes such as weaponry, first aid,… they must also pass a basic survival course that is a dumb down version of SERE ,(Survival, Evasion, Resistance and Escape) ,school. Basic airborne skill is mandatory - even though you may not fare as well as special operations officers, you must jump static at least once in your career. Basic hand-to-hand will also be taught. All in all, my reasoning is: ,“I give you the money and the equipment you need to put up a good fight, now it’s your turn to prove that you ,can ,put them into good use.” No slacking off. My military’s specialty is simple enough: ,Shock and Awe. ,I’ll roll in like thunders, wreck damage like the strike and, when called for, retreat like the bolt itself. Tall order, but it could be done. Now let’s get to the fun part of actually spree-shopping military hardware: Navy: Navy for the Joint Military Command of Oceania and Liaisons (JMCOL) - ,P.S: It took me five minutes to brainstorm that - ,is ,extremely important,. Largely because the main base of operation is literally a giant freaking island surrounded by water, the Navy is going to be its first and foremost line of defence. One of the first order of business is to build up a formidable Navy similar to the Brits back in the day. Take the water. I’ll write in-depth about the Navy most. Aircraft Carrier: ,Gerald R. Ford-class Carrier, ,(U.S.) This is a no-brainer. The GRF is ,the ,most advanced aircraft carrier today, as well as the most expensive and capable. Can house up to 90 aircraft of all types and 3000–5000 personnel at a time, the Carrier can serve as both a ,Tactical Operations Command, ,(TOC) ,for expeditionary operations overseas or wherever I want. It can also fair pretty well as a troop transport. All in all, I want ,20 ,of these. They will be simultaneously deploy across the globe in Carrier Strike Groups (CSGs), bringing each and every countries into shambles if I, for example, don’t like the look of their country’s flag. Landing Helicopter Dock - Amphibious Assault Ship: ,America-class Amphibious Assault Ship, ,(U.S.) I almost chose the ,Canberra,-class to appease the angry kangaroos on steroid for invading their homeland but I gotta go with the ,America,-class. Amphibious Assault Ships are pocket-versions of a full-sized aircraft carrier and are generally deployed for rapid operations and coastal operations. It can carry roughly 1,700 personnel on-board and a complement of dozens of various aircraft, including helicopters and STOVL ,(Short Take-Off Vertical Landing) ,jets such as the F-35/B. But one of the great detail an LHD can bring into the strategic board game is its ,well deck. From the massive door at its aft, the LHD can deploy smaller ships such as the Landing Craft Air Cushion ,(LCAC) ,and bring troops and equipment to shore. Where do I sign for ,20 ,of these? Destroyer: ,Zumwalt,-class Guided Missile Destroyer ,(U.S.) This ugly thing is optimised for stealth operations. Which means radars are going to have a hard time seeing it approaching, exactly what I need. The concealed ,rail guns ,can fire a shell several times faster than the speed of sound with effective range up to hundreds of kilometres - working in tandem with the ship’s top of the line sensors and fire control radars, the Zumwalt can neutralise targets before they even see it coming. The Vertical Launch System on the ship can launch nuclear warhead carrying missiles globally and with the full power of the missiles, it can pulverise an entire continent if I ordered it to. Which I like. Some people would question why I do not choose the ,Arleigh Burke,-class. Answer is that its level is ,to-par ,with a few ships out there right now such as the Chinese’s ,Type-052D,, proving its slowly outdating capabilities - still work, but not good as it used to be. Since I’m blessed with ultimate bank account, ,‘still work’ ,is a no-no. (Type-052D). I want ,80 ,Zumwalt. Which is around the same amount of ,Arleigh Burke,-class the U.S. has right now, and planned for. Submarine: ,Virginia,-class Nuclear Fast-attack Submarine ,(U.S.) Don’t blame me as for why America churns out so good military hardware. The ,Virginia,-class is the most recent addition to the U.S. fleet (,and would be the most recent addition to ,my ,fleet). With a nuclear reactor on-board providing technically limitless energy for the ship, the submarine can sail the world forever if it’s not bogged down by the need for supplies and maintenance. Carrying a full combat load of ,65 missiles and torpedoes ,of various types, including BGM-109 Tomahawk cruise missiles capable of carrying nuclear warheads and Mk-48 torpedoes, the ship can be a useful tool for nuclear reciprocation should someone want to mess with me. The ,Virginia,-class can touch depth of about 280 metres under the water, but I have no doubt that it can go further should it want to. Give me ,100. Last, ,Corvette: ,Visby-,class Stealth Corvette, ,(Swedish): Finally something that’s not American! I see no particular needs for a cruiser or a frigate, as they’re mostly used as alternatives for countries that do not have the capability or needs for a full-fledged Destroyer. But I do need ,corvettes. Even if I have the power of the sharks in Australian’s water, corvettes are important to fence against smaller attacks and coastal patrols when the main fleet is away. Relatively cheap and are fast, they are valuable additions to the ,home ,fleet. I want ,150,. It will also benefit the operation of a system you will learn in a few seconds. I also want ,Mercy,-class Hospital Ship ,(U.S.) It can provide berthing and full medical services such as radiological services, CAT scans, surgery facilities,… for almost 1,300 at full capacity. Not only will it provide helps for civilians in war-stricken zones ,(partly my fault),, it can be a neat shelter for wounded soldiers on my side. Great P.A also. A lot of people would follow me if they know that I’m actively helping them, thus, volunteers. Want ,5. As a bonus and an extremely strange option: ,SBX-1 ,(Sea-based X-Band Radar): This is a humongous floating and movable radar platform. This should be obvious considering the giant radome in the middle. It can detect incoming Intercontinental Ballistic Missile (ICBM) from a range of up to 2000 kilometres. The smaller radomes scattered around the platform are there for communication and other tasks. This is ,extremely ,important since my military is technically unstoppable, many countries could resort to nuclear strikes and ,this ,will be the thing that foil these arseholes’ plan. I want 30,. Continuously patrolling the coast under the protection of my corvettes. That’s … ,kind of, enough for naval component. Air Force: Since I own quite a lot of carriers, I also need to fit them all with carrier-capable jets for it to exercise its power. STOVL jets should be included since I also field LHD as well. Helicopters, aerial refueling aeroplanes, AWACS ,(Airborne Early Warning and Control),,… will obviously make a presence. Multi-role: ,F-35 A/B/C Lightning II ,(U.S.) Some of you may wish me dead and buried for mentioning this ,pathetic ,fighter that is the F-35. You’ve heard a lot of things about this jet, chiefly: ,‘Useless’, ‘Expensive’, ‘Ridiculous’,… ,comes to mind. I beg your pardon, in my opinion, the only thing that is wrong with them is the cost of development. They’re ,marvels,. Yes, I said it, I’m an F-35 advocator slash fanboy. They will provide a common airframe across all services: ,Air Force (A), Marines (B), Navy (C), ,with their inherent stealthiness and various cutting-edge systems. Providing the range and extensive weapon capability the Air Force needs to operate from land, the STOVL system needed by the Marines to work on LHD ships and the carrier landing ability for the Navy. All in all, an initial order of ,2,100 ,will be set forth. Around 700 of each variants, just because I’m rich. Utility Helicopter: ,HH-60 Pave Hawk ,(U.S.) Instead of giving my troops a boring and inadequate baseline Black Hawk, I’ll give them - just like anything from Australia - a Black Hawk on Special Operations-steroid. It’s mostly in limited usage by U.S. Special Operations and Pararescue for insertion and extraction or medical evacuation. Along with a refueling probe in the front ,(The protruding stick to the left side of the picture),, it’s also equipped with various sensors and forward looking infrared systems to aid the pilots during night flights. You can see them under the nose. Flare/chaff dispensers are also installed and a radar warning receiver to detect missile locks. This thing will be of great help when fighting against modern adversaries with Anti-Air missiles. Give me ,5,000. ,Why? That’s roughly the same number the U.S. has built for the baseline UH-60. Transport: ,CH-47 Chinook ,(U.S.) No brainer. It can lift, at once, 55 troops or an armoured vehicle. Great for heavy lifting. Give me ,2,000. You’re probably getting bored and the important ones are technically listed anyway, so I’ll breeze through the rest of my options. Additional aircraft: ,MH/AH-6 Little Bird ,(U.S.) MH-6 AH-6. MH-6 is a transport chopper that’s installed with side benches which can carry 3 at a time. AH-6 is the weaponised version, instead of benches, they’re installed with rocket pods and miniguns instead. Small, cheap, fast and effective. They can be procured and deployed instantaneously and in large number. ,Number: 1,000 ,/ ,500 each variant. V-22 Osprey ,(U.S.) Its versatility and speed would be greatly appreciated. Number: ,200. MH-53E Sea Dragon, (U.S.) Oh this thing is big and heavy alright. It can be deployed from LHD, as you can see above, and can carry 40–50 at once. Number:, 300. AH-64 Apache ,(U.S.) Duh. ,Number: 1,000. AWACS: ,E-8 Joint STARS. E-3 Sentry. Important. Equipped with top-of-the-line sensors, cameras and communication equipment, they will provide command and control (C2) to all military assets, coordinate defence / attack and deliver intelligence to field units when they’re available. These aeroplanes will also allow me and my staffs to have an overview of the battlefield or strategic situations, allowing us to solve the problems as quickest as we could. Number: 500 / 250 each. Bombers: ,B-2 Spirit. B-1 Lancer. Will allow me to effectively destroy important infrastructures of the enemy and these bombers’ nuclear capability will be quite useful should they threaten me. Want ,1000 / 500 each. Stratofortress is soooooo 50s. Tanker: ,KC-46 Pegasus. Tankers are ,vital,. Beside giving aircraft a range extension, they will also ensure an uninterrupted operating pace, allowing jets to fly farther and operate longer in the area. Which I need. Number: 500–700. Transport: ,C-17 Globemaster III: What’s going to bring your s***, airdrop supplies and commandos to the field? C-5 Galaxy: For the C-5, ,200 units,, C-17: ,800 units. Maritime patrol: ,P-8 Poseidon. Again, the seas: ,Must have. The P-8 will allow early detection and neutralisation of submarines, surface ships and all sorts of naval threats that would prove to be a problem for me later on. Number: 200. Land Hardware: Gonna be good, this one. As an ,*avid*, strategic game player ,(lol, I play on easy and just zerg rush all the time), ,it’s important to build a stand-off land force: Main Battle Tank: ,Leopard 2A6 ,(German): Initially going for the Israeli’s ,Merkava,, however, I think the Leopard would do a much better job against advanced adversaries than the Merkava, which is oriented toward combating lighter armed forces such as Hezbollah. Lighter and more compact, too. Notable MBT. Number: 5,000. Utility vehicles: Oshkosh M-ATV ,(U.S.) The M-ATV is a step up from the old Humvees, provide much more protection against blasts, bullets and are more rugged. Definitely what I seek for a utility vehicle. Number: 5,000. Cougar MRAP ,(Mine-Resistant Ambush Protected): For much larger transportation. Number: 1,000. Self-Propelled Gun: ,M-109 Paladin: Can fire from stand-off range up to 300+ kilometres. Number: 200. Artillery: ,M-777 ‘,Light,’ Towed Howitzer: Self explanatory. Number: 1,000 pieces. Multiple-Launch Rocket Systems ,(MLRS),: M270 MLRS The effects of this type of weapon would be absolutely horrifying. Not only it can reduce a block of buildings to ruins in a single salvo, the psychological effects it would have from continuous and overwhelming amount of fire can scare even the toughest of men. Need. ,Number: 1,000. That’s it. Coupling with future developments and they unlimited fund to keep the entire machine running indefinitely, I will take over the world in a decade. Annexed regions will initially be subjected to military laws, however, people can still commute and work freely - all in all, I want to win hearts and minds. I don’t want to be the bad guy, as history has proven that will only work against my favours. Minist(ess?) of Foreign Policies will be ,User-10195336674971721522,, cause I’m biased as fuck. Hail your Supreme Leader! General Consensus: ,Tactical Kangaroo.

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