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car paint touch up brushes Q&A Review

What is the best automatic car wash for my car? Regular or touchless? Are the extras like undercarriage washes, wheel cleaning or spray-on wax worth it?

So I am a manager at an automatic wash, so my opinion will be slightly biased. I have a pretty deep understanding of the chemistry at both the automatic and touchless washes. Lots of people feel that the touchless washes are the way to go since the automatic ones will eventually leave swirls in your paint (which is only partly true but I’ll get to that in a moment). The only problem with the touchless washes is the chemistry. The way they clean cars is completely different. We combine Chemistry and what we call Mechanical Action (the physical brushes). Touchless washes only use Chemistry. Since they don’t have the benefit of Mechanical Action, they have to use ,significantly, harsher chemicals than we do. Over time, this will deteriorate your clear coat, stain the rims, and seemingly bleach out the hard plastic trim pieces on your car. The choice between the two also has something to do with the condition of your car when you bring it in. Is it covered in mud? Maybe go with a touchless over an automatic so it doesn't rub the grit into your paint (however, you’d be safe with a Mister automatic… One of the first chemicals to go on your car is a lubricant, and our first set of brushes are made out of what we call NeoGlide, which is basically just slippery foam. It helps push the dirt off without holding it in the cloth and rubbing it into your paint). Your traditional automatic won’t have these things, so you are going to run into issues if you continually bring your car in covered in mud. As far as the add-ons? I swear by them. And I’ll address them one by one (keep in mind that this only applies to Misters). The undercarriage wash is more of a rinse than anything else. We couldn't use a full blown pressure washer down there or we’d damage electronics, but it is useful for rinsing off road grime, salt, or mud out from under your car. Having cleaned the tunnel 100’s of times, I can tell you that that is the dirtiest section of the tunnel, just because it removes so much filth from the underside of cars that people don't even know is there. Wheel cleaning comes in all of our packages down to the basic, so I’ll address what we call Wheel Polish (only available in our Platinum, which is the top package). Basically, this is a sacrificial silicone-based polymer layer that is just meant to give your rims a slightly wet look, and it also keeps a layer between your rim and brake dust (which makes it significantly easier to clean. And since every car gets the same attention, it means that you should have immaculately clean wheels every time you come through without needing to touch up certain areas). And finally, my favorite, our wax, the area in which my company has set the standard for the industry. Recognize this? We started this. And yes, this makes a massive difference. One, it's going to shine longer, and two, it's going to give it another sacrificial layer to protect your paint and make it easier to clean next time. On sunny days, you can look down the line of freshly washed cars and see who got wax and who didn't. Its that big of a difference. Also, it makes things like bugs and road tar so much easier to clean off, since those things would be stuck to our wax and not your clear coat. I said I would get to the problem of swirls in your paint. Our washes mitigate this issue as much as we possibly can, but its part of the wear of the vehicle. Handwashing is worse for it than taking it to a Mister, since at home you probably don't have a cleaning lubricant and NeoGlide brushes to push off the grit before you clean. The issue is the vehicles that only get the wax-less washes every time. Even if you take 3 ply toilet paper and wipe your car in the same spot 1,000’s of times, you’ll start to see marks. The only way to effectively mitigate this completely is to either keep a coat of hand wax on it or to get our wax. Either way, you have to have something between your clear coat and the grit that it encounters every day. I’ll give an anecdote to illustrate: We have a regular customer named Mr. Jackson. He’s been coming 3 times a week for six years (Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays). He is retired and loves to detail his truck every single time he comes in (the inside, I mean. He lets us take care of the outside). He has a black Ford F150 and gets the wash with the wax every single time he comes in. His paint is in immaculate condition. You’d be hard pressed to find any issues with it anywhere, even though he takes it to one of those “horrible automatic washes that scratch your paint” 3 days out of the week. That’s roughly in the neighborhood of 972 washes without ANY issues. I wish I had pictures of his truck to post, but I won't see him till Saturday. Anyways, I hope my answer has given you an insight into processes and chemicals behind a car wash. There’s a lot more to it than I think most people realize.

What is the cheapest way to get an aerosol can of spray paint for auto touch up that matches your car's paint color?

Here's the problem. Those touchup cans that announce that they contain factory colors probably do, but it is the ,application, that makes the final match, not the paint. The brush touch up invariably works out to be too dark and heavy looking and the spray can never seems to be the correct color either BECAUSE the factory that cans the stuff has to make it to be applied in just about any temperature and condition you can think of... even though they provide optimum application instructions it is rare that the customer follows the rules. When someone asks me to help them out with a touchup I always buy a pint of "factory pack" paint and prepare the damaged surface just as I would if painting an entire car. I then use professional spray equipment (and years of experience) to do the application. ,Even then, I sometimes get it a tenth-shade off... not usually noticeable by the average Joe but definitely shows up under careful professional scrutiny. That all being said- and I haven't tried it- is to get some paint from ,Touch Up Paint and Accessories, which will sell you custom packaged product but it will still be up to you to properly prepare and apply the stuff. And, it probably won't be as cheap as you want.

What is the best way to disguise light scratches on a silver fender/bumper of a car?

There's something called 'airbrush paint touch-up,' and that's what you want when it comes to hiding scratches and paint chips, especially on bumpers (which are often plastic). If you try to use touch-up paint, you'll probably draw attention to the spot rather than hide it. If you try out the tricky "no paint" scratch removal kits, you'll find that the scratches reappear after a few months (because these 'removal' kits are actually just wax). Your local used car dealership can recommend a good airbrush touch-up person. Heck, they might even let you bring your car down the day the brush-touch person comes by and do your vehicle at dealer cost.

Is it possible to fix a deep car scratch?

You will be amazed at what a bit of touch up paint will do. Because it's black it will be easy, find some flat paint and brush it on. Nobody will ever see it. Want to be even lazier? Sharpie might work. Spray paint also works, but be very careful, the spray travels, it is extra work to cover everything.

Need Advice: I brushed off rear side of another car while parking and It got a small scratch. What do I do?

Wash the car. Go to the auto parts store and get a tub of polishing compound and a decent rag (or an old undershirt) Use the polishing compound on the scratches, they will look better. Then order touch up paint for your car online. Read the instructions that come with it. Follow them. Only you will know that the scratch happened. Seriously, nobody will ever notice it at that point. Total out of pocket cost - about $30.

What are the tricks that used car dealers use to make a car seem like it's in better condition than it actually is?

Whether it qualifies as a “trick” depends on your viewpoint, but ,professional detailing ,can add many hundreds of dollars in perceived value. A car that seems as clean, shiny, and fresh-smelling as new is significantly more appealing to a possible buyer than one with even minor signs of recent occupancy. (Never mind that the two cars would likely be in roughly the same condition two or three weeks after purchase). Many volume dealers have full-time detailing staff so the investment is much less than a private detail job, and such crews can also go beyond standard detailing content to light reconditioning: polishing headlights to a like-new-gloss (oxidized headlights are a huge psychological indicator of “old car”), paintless dent removal and paint touch-ups, ozone treatment (for odors), headliner repair, and mag wheel brushing or painting. As a buyer it's worth remembering that before the shiny, new-appearing car reached the used car lot, it was somebody's everyday car. One of the best ways to squeeze value out of a used car purchase is to see through the rough spots on a private party sale to the underlying condition.

I accidentally lightly tapped another person’s car and made a tiny piece of paint come off. The owner said I just need to pay for the touch up. How much does it cost for a tiny paint touch up?

It depends on what kind of repair is done. If the owner is happy with buying a bottle of brush-on touch up paint, it could cost $10–20. If the entire panel has to be professionally painted, it could cost hundreds, depending on what panel it is. It could take several days, which means there’s also the cost of a rental car for the owner.

What are ways to protect a scratched car?

You can carefully clean the scratch out with a small folded piece of sand paper, then mask closely along each side of the scratch. Use a little art brush and some touch-up paint and brush pant in the scratch. Put on a couple coats, then peel the tape. The paint may not match very well, but it will protect, and help to look maintained instead of neglected.