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paint to touch up chipped tile Q&A Review

What are the stages of RCC construction?

Hi… Generally, Any construction required following 12 stages, to complete RCC building work. This stages may be varies accordingly, region to region because of large country area. For different prespective, someone making it's into 3 stages, 5 stages or any number. We are making it into 12 stages from excavation to lock & key project as follows 1.Footings concrete, 1 excavation and dressing 2 PCC bed concreting 3 footing bar bending work 4 footings concrete casting 2.Plinth beam concreting , 1 Starters concreting 2 Neck columns casting 3 soil backfilling 4 water consolidation 5 PCC bed concreting 6 marking on PCC 7 bar bending and shuttering 8 checking and casting 3.Floor PCC bed concreting , 1 soil back filling 2 water consolidation 3 soil preparion and compacting 4 Anti termite treatment and PCC bed concreting 4.Slab casting work, 1 Starters concreting 2 columns casting 3 staicase concrete 4 shuttering and barbending 5 checking and casting and curing bunds 5.Brick work, 1 Hacking 2 cleaning & Marking 3 brickwork upto lintel level 4 terrace parapit wall 5 Lintel chajjas concrete 6 Up to beam bottom level 6.Plastering work, 1 Electrical conduting 2 internal cleaning, jali fixing & bull marks checking 3 internal 1st coat plastering 4 internal plumbing lines fixing(cpvc and pvc lines) 5 External scaffolding fixing 6 external jali fixing& bullmarks checking 7 external 1st coat plastering 8 external 2nd coat plastering 7.Waterproofing, 1 terrace dead morter chipping 2 checking & applying chemical 3 Genal raw material shifting 4 concrete screed& groove formaation 5 curing bunds and water stocking & seepage checking 8.Painting work, 1 shelves with bison panels 2 internal 2 coats lappam apply(normal & cement based wall putty) 3 emery paper cut & light checking 4 internal 1 coat primer apply 5 external waterproofing chemical apply 6 elevation 2 coats putty apply 7 emri paper cut 8 externnal 1 coat primar apply 9.Tiles work, 1 internal Plumbing lines pressure test 2 toilets wall tiles dadoing 3 tiles flooring work 4 kitchen wall tiles dadoing & kitchen platform 5 parking tiles laying 6 staircase tandoor stone laying 7 staircse and terrace ms railing fixing 8 raillings locksets and redoxide apply 10.Joinery works, 1 door frames fixing 2 window UPVC frames fixing 3 all patch& touch up works 4 door shutters and window grills fixing 5 electrical wiring , CP , sanitary & all final fittings 6 checking, cleaning & locking 11.External final works, 1 wall piles &plinth beam concreting 2 compound wall brick work 3 compound wall 2 sides 2 coats plastering 4 external plumbing main lines inlets and out lets 5 hume pipes & PVC pipes laying under the ramp 6 Ramp making, Gully flooring & chambers fixing 12.Final Handover procedure, 1 internal final 2 coats painting 2 external final 2 coats painting 3 inside and outside cleaning 4 rechecking technically inside and outside 5 requesting validation team 6 attending all validation points 7 requesting 2nd validation team 8 requisting customer for WCC 9 handover key Source,:- my company WBS, internet & observation. Thanks

How do you repair hairline cracks in a ceramic tile?

Not repairable. You’d have to replace each tile. If the ceramic tile glaze chips and looks glaringly damaged, you can sometimes touch up that spot with paint used for model airplanes, etc.

How can I repair small chips in kitchen floor tiles? The tiles are a light colour, and the chips show up as small black spots.

You can use appliance/porcelain touch up paint. The color match will be the difficulty. We have use it to touch up formica counters and tile, as well as appliances.

If there are tiny chips on the edges of some sandstone colored matte finish ceramic tile, and now in those spots you see the reddish underlying part of the tile - is there a product to touch up the chips and make it looks halfway decent?

I have successfully mixed a little bit of paint to match the tile. Be sure to use a paint that has the same gloss level as the tile surface. Just carefully dab the paint onto the chipped area. It isn’t perfect, but makes the chipped places far less noticeable.

People who work in paint departments, what is the oddest thing anyone has ever presented you with to match/create a paint color?

Is it odd to be given a coffee cup with a cartoon on it to try and get your spectrophotometer to read a circular image? Because the customer ,really, likes the blue in the sky on there. Is it odd to try to fit a piece of a siding plank longer than your arm under same spectro? Especially when the only place not rotted, weathered, or water damaged is right about in the middle. Is it odd to have someone hand you their phone with a Pinterest pic, and want the same color as on that wall there? Not odd at all, but a bit challenging, to be handed the lid from a dried-up, decades-old can of paint with a layer of desiccated, cracked latex on the underside. True color of original? Don’t think so. How about a roof tile, or a brick, or any other colored masonry product that has a multitude of hues of the same color in said item? Is it odd to hear stuff like this: How about this blouse that’s kinda close to my wall color now…please make me some touch-up paint because I’m selling the house. Hey! Make some paint that’s the same color as the wood stain on the cabinet door I brought in! What do you mean, which strip of grain from the wood do I want matched? Why is there a problem with my fingernail-sized chip of paint stuck to a piece of blue painters tape? Can’t you just make it “beige”? I want it just plain “beige.” What do you mean not all white is the same white? My doors at home are white, just give me white paint! I guess there’s nothing odd about being handed a fluffy couch pillow because the customer wants that exact shade of green in the third stripe over, because stuff like that happens All. The. Time. Not everyone goes away happy…

How do I clean my home's porcelain tiles by myself?

Different people have different ideas on what clean means. It is hard to find a good maid these days My wife and son clean them by using a wider than usual bucket filled with water that has TSP from Home Depot in it. They use a mop that folds to expel most of the water when you pull the sponge squeeze handle and it has a scrub brush on the other side of the mop head. I pick up where they leave off to do more of a after rehab type cleaning when it is needed like when we go to sell the house. I clean using a hand rag and the same bucket with TSP in the water using rubber gloves and knee pads. I use the head of a scrub brush with the handle removed to scrub the grout line using the TSP water in line with the grout line. I wipe the entire tile with a rag, and use a single edged razor blade in a holder to scrap off anything that regular scrubbing won’t remove. I use a carpet knife to scrap anything that the brushing didn’t remove from the grout line. I use Softscrub on a damp cloth to remove any stains that won’t come off from scrapping. Then I mix up some grout and put a layer of grout over the existing grout line and then wipe it off with a grout sponge in order to re-stain the grout line to an even color when regular brush scrubbing isn’t enough to bring even grout line color. Then I take a spare tile to Home Depot and pay $4 to have a sample latex paint can mixed by computer and tape up the grout lines to protect them from paint and paint in missing corners using an artist touch up brush and I also touch up small tile chips and pull the blue tape before the paint dries. And when that fails, I break out the bad tiles and scrape the floor underneath clean and start over by using mastic to glue in a replacement tile and a couple of days later I mix up some grout and re-grout just that one tile. I bought this one house where it had beige tile in the kitchen with beige grout in the kitchen. The rehab before we moved in sprayed a dark walnut stain on the kitchen island wood, and spilled some stain on the beige grout. Then he went with it and stained the entire 1/4″ grout line adjoining the kitchen island in the dark walnut stain color. I hired a maid out of craigslist who offered a $100 house clean and she brought a couple big boxes of gear. After her first day, I looked down and she had that grout line straightened out and it was beige again. I never said anything, and I doubt my wife ever noticed before or after, but I guess the maid had noticed and it bothered her and so I took it off my to do list.

Have you ever purchased a house from an HGTV style show? (Good Bones, property Brothers, Fixer Upper, etc)

Full disclosure- no I have not, yet I have watched many of them with an understanding of how renovations should be completed. Here's a list of why most of these fast renovation shows leave a wake of destruction behind. Last minute installations- don't get me started! It takes time for the mortar to set under tile. It also take time for grout to cure. If you walk on the time before this the tile can crack, become dislodged, or just being set up to come loose later. Laying in tile the morning of an open house is a hot mess waiting to happen. Paint takes time and environmental considerations to cure. Painting the day of or or even night before an open house, during a rainstorm, while sanding or running a saw in the same room, painting hung doors then closing them immediately after, painting with fixtures attached, you name it… and you can see what happens. Now for the more permanent stuff. Cabinets take alot of abuse and have to handle alot of weight. Oak, Ash, Birch, and Maple are exceptional woods for fine cabinetry and can take repetitive movement and abuse. Saw shavings and chips from the millworks shoved together with cheap formaldehyde laden adhesives with a thin vinyl coating is not. MDF cabinets are garbage, but always seem to be the go to solution for every one of these shows. They are one spill, one seaping faucet, one sloppy mopping from swelling and disintegrating. They are a year of use away from doors coming loose and cabinet corners splitting. Painting over garbage MDF cabinets is even farther from an appropriate repair, and I've seen that countless times. Drywall is an art. To make a wall with ever so warped lumber, slammed together by a rushed framer, turn into something that appears to be seamless and flat is amazing. Taping and mudding takes a pro 2 solid coats and a feathered out width of about 2 feet with light sanding to look clean. Every coat must dry properly before another is applied or it risks cracking or lifting. Texture over the mud can hide the small deviations that remain. Hanging sheetrock and having it painted the same day is not a recipe for a clean wall. The pictures and other wall art hide the cracks and defects the flip artists are leaving for the new owners. We haven't even touched the structural failures that get slopped together. Patching over a cracked foundation? Replacing a patch of shingles to fix a leak without replacing the tar paper? Air nailing anything without marking where the studs are behind it? No nails stops where plumbing and electrical go through studs? Pulling structural walls without supports before the beams are installed? Laying self-leveling thinset over buckled slabs? Air-conditioning heating and even water heaters installed with no structural support and no drains? Removing code required handrails for aesthetics? Thinset over cracked driveways? The list goes on. It's all lipstick on a pig, but people do not care to look.

When renovating a rental property kitchen or bathroom, what are some cost savings tricks to make it look upscale without breaking the bank?

Fresh Paint. Still the cheapest upgrade. I use “good" paint, that is highly rated in the clean up, scrubbable category. Never flat, except for ceilings. Same paint used across properties. Eliminates guess work. Unless! I find good deals, high quality paint, in the returns section. Ask your paint counter person to keep a look out. A Rigorous cleaning. I don't know how many bathtubs, fiberglass or porcelain, that don't look better with a quality buffing with the appropriate compound. Sinks. Porcelain or stainless. Baking soda paste scrub. Upgraded to good LED lighting…lighting saves me money in the not too long term as well. And, they last a long, long time. Hate packing a ladder to replace hard to reach bulbs? And, want to put your property in the best light? LEDs. I put some vintage looking LED bulbs in a older bathroom's mirrored vanity area. Appliances. I clean them, but, yet they still look…so worn. Wow. Now, I do this routinely. Cleaning, buffing compound. NuFinish. So, I buffed out a glass countertop stove just for S&G's. It looked really bad. This worked too. Touch up, no need for appliance paint. Black nail polish works really well on black appliances. Stainless Steel, and White appliance paint is saved for major makeovers. Wow. The Stainless steel paint is amazing. I keep a gloss, and a matte nail polish handy. Chips on appliances, countertops super glue filler, nail polish. Granite colored, black…it actually wasn't too hard to get a very decent match. I use the same “color restore” products, and Nu Finish typically used on my car. Marble. Old, worn? Cleaned. Resealed, with marble sealant. Allowed to dry. Buffed with rubbing compound. Clean up the dust. NuFinish. Wow! Amazing, shining, water beading, like new countertops. The cook top…once cleaned, and buffed with cheap baking soda paste… Got the same Nu Finish sealing. (The amazing part, is how any one could stand cooking on a 1/8th inch of baked on crud... and, not set off the smoke detectors.) Good as, well, not new, but it looks really good, 99% of crud removed. Cleaning, should definitely include the windows. New caulk. Clean the grout. Seal. Use that buffer again on the tile in the bathroom. (Grout whitening. Cleaning. Non slippery grout sealer) Sealed grout once cleaned…I used the same sealer, I used on the marble, and granite. Saves me from regrouting, and from easy staining. Formica countertop chips. There is a nail polish for those too. I have taken to shopping at a store that is like a Goodwill of Reclaimed Building materials. Many products are donated, new, but in damaged packaging. Good stuff. Inexpensive, and often way better materials than the original. Building that equity in the process with inexpensive, and yet, not cheap particle board… upgrades. Solid. Sturdy. Vintage wood. I mostly use the same bucket, I use on the weekends for the cars. Throw in touch up nail polish. Baking soda. Extra grades, coarse through polishing, of reusable buffing pads. Curb appeal. Degrease driveway. Power spray deep clean drive, and walks. Quickly, re- black the blacktop. Weed. Check for perennial plants, year end clearance. Often, free or greatly reduced. Put a nice sign in the yard. For Rent. An extra $50.00+/mo. It looks “worth" it, clean, shiny, refurbished. Low maintenance. Smells good. Well lit. A new shower curtain. Welcome Home! After the second or third month, $50 additional profit, and a lot less work for me in 6 months to a year.

What basic home maintenance skills should I master and where can I learn them?

What basic home maintenance skills should I master and where can I learn them? Here are the skills I want my kids to know before they move out on their own. For about ten dollars at Home Depot, you can get a basic, hand-carry plastic tool box. Start investing in some basic tools. How to hang stuff on the walls. You might get away with a hammer and nail for a small picture frame, but if you need to hang large paintings, bathroom fixtures (like a towel bar), or shelving, there’s more to it. You need a level (they have them for a dollar at the dollar stores), a power drill, a picture hanging kit (which provides hangers that can withstand more than a few ounces of weight), mollies and screws, a stud finder, a measuring tape, and metal brackets or braces (for securing tall furniture or shelves to walls). You can learn how to secure things to the wall properly by watching YouTube videos and reading the instructions that come with the fixtures. Anything heavier than five pounds, or that might get pulled on (like a towel bar), should be secured into a wall stud, which is the wood used to build the interior of the wall. The walls are usually covered with drywall or plaster, both of which crumble under weight. So if you screw into drywall only, it is easy for the screw to loosen and pull out. If you find a stud, and screw into that wood, the screw is less likely to come out. You might need multiple screws, depending on the weight. How to paint a room, or touch up peeling paint. You need one decent brush for corners, trim, and touchups. Don’t go cheap. Cheap brushes will have bristles that fall out and poke out at angles, making tidy painting difficult. If you keep the brush clean and care for it, it will last for years. If you’re painting an entire wall or room, you need a paint roller frame, roller covers appropriate for the texture of your walls, a metal paint tray, tray liners (if you want to minimize cleanup), and an old sheet or tarp to protect your floors and furniture. Don’t go cheap on the roller covers. Cheap ones will shed all over the walls. Buy a small sanding block (a finer grade) if you have a small chip or peel to repair. Again, you can learn how to paint properly by watching videos. Prepping the surface is key. Know where your water main shutoff and gas main shutoffs are in case of emergency. You may need special tools to be able to shut these off. Keep the tools in an accessible location, known to every person in your house. Know where your electrical panel is, and how to shut off breakers. Know how to clean. This might seem basic, but dirt and dust can degrade fixtures. Using the wrong cleaners can harm finishes. And dirt can also obscure bigger problems. For example, maybe you think it’s not that important to sweep along the side of your house. You don’t go out there much anyway, so leaves, dirt and debris build up. But in the eaves on this side of the house, termites are nesting and feeding. Their droppings mix with the debris, but you can’t see the evidence of their activity because you haven’t cleaned. Those droppings are the clue you need to arrest the problem, but you don’t see them. Tent your house for termites every five years. Seriously. Most people don’t tent often enough, let alone spot treat. It might depend on where you live, but I’m in Southern California, and I guarantee every house has termites. Every one. Did you know they can hibernate for three years in new wood before becoming active? Treat. Tent. Often. How to maintain your landscape. Even if you have a gardener, it pays to know how to repair a broken sprinkler head, sprinkle some grass seed on a bare patch, or identify and eradicate pests before they ruin your plants. This is particularly important if you have fruit trees or a vegetable garden. Mealy bugs, caterpillars, and scale can kill a fruit tree before you even realize there’s a problem. Look up the plants you have on the Internet, and read about how to care for them and some of the common problems they have. Also learn how to plant new plants, and what plants best grow in your area. Your local nursery will answer any questions you have. AND, make sure you keep tree branches well away from your roof. They are a superhighway for rodents, who will get into your attic and reek havoc. How to change out plumbing fixtures. I am not talking about actual plumbing—I mean putting in a new showerhead, or replacing an old faucet. Watch videos and follow instructions with your new fixtures. It’s also helpful to know how to fix a leaky faucet (assuming you don’t want or need to replace the whole fixture). If you have hard water, install a whole house filter, and make sure you descale appliances on a regular basis. A coffeepot, your fridge ice maker, the dishwasher, and your washing machine will lose years of their lives due to scale buildup. Showerheads and faucets clog. Pools get a nice crust at the waterline. So learn to descale! If you keep up with this, you’ll head off problems and make all your appliances and fixtures last longer. Know the limits of your skills. Electricity is not worth messing with unless you really put in the time to learn and have the proper tools. And you might be surprised about what requires a permit in your area. Where I am, you need a permit to put in a ceiling fan! If you’re interested in learning these advanced types of skills, I have a suggestion. Let’s say you want to change a ceiling light in the bedroom to a fan. Call an electrician and ask if you can observe while he works (of course you can—he’s working in your house). Offer to pay $200 extra if you can learn from him. I don’t know any electricians that would turn this down. Feel free to ask questions as he works, but be respectful of his time also. Try to learn the whys of what he’s doing. You can read about the whats (this goes there), but the whys will help you apply the knowledge in the future. And don’t believe you’re an expert after this one lesson. But it might give you a good foundation for learning, and allow to change out fixtures in the future. There are many other things you can learn to do (tiling, or installing a wood floor), but they take the proper tools to do them correctly, and that requires an investment. But if you have the time and inclination, go for it. Just know that your first few efforts will be far from professional. Start on small, inconspicuous projects that you don’t mind being less than perfect. Learn what requires periodic maintenance, put those items on the calendar, and make sure they happen! Chimneys need to be swept yearly if you regularly use a wood fireplace. HVAC units need yearly maintenance. Air filters need to be changed. Pests need to be treated. Fences should be stained or painted. Dryer vent lines need to be cleaned. Go around the house twice a year with a screwdriver, and tighten loose door knobs and cabinet pulls. Fix sticky doors, change burned out bulbs, and replace torn window screens. If you do this on a regular basis, you’ll pay less (it’s generally less costly to clean or maintain something than it is to replace it), and you’ll relieve yourself of daily annoyances.