paint touch up on walls

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paint touch up on walls Q&A Review

Is it normal to have spots on walls due to touch up paint?

As an insurance painter it’s a general practice to paint the entire wall as opposed to simply touching it up, on most occasions I will make the colour with my tinters, but even with the exact paint used prior, you will get a different sheen level on a touch up, this is due to that small touch up having a slightly higher sheen level, in UK and Australia we call this ‘Flashing’ I cant remember the term we used in California in 1988, but when we painted the L.A Red Cross centre we painted new plastered walls around newly installed metal door frames, we painted the entire walls from corner to corner, so it’s a general practice in every country I have had the pleasure working in.

Does touching up paint on walls blend well?

It depends on many things. How old the paint is, whether you have the original colour, and how dirty the walls have got. I've had great results from touching up paint from walls painted within the last few years, with paint I had left over from the original job.

How do you touch up flat wall paint?

Use the same flat paint that was used to paint the wall that flat color. Depending on the surface you can, spray it, sponge it on, roll it, or brush onto the place you desire touched up.

Can I fix a few oil stains (2.5 cm long x 0.5 cm wide) on my wall by touching up with paint using a small brush instead of painting the whole 10 x 7 ft plaster wall again? Has anyone tried to touch up only stains/spots with paint?

If you dry brush it then you will have better luck with it blending with the wall color. My answer is based on experience and profession. I’ve been working in the construction industry since 1996. I have my own Handyman company and painting is the one thing I do a lot of. With this said I will continue my answer. When I say dry brushing I mean do not overload paint on your brush then wipe most of it off so that you don’t have a glob of paint on the wall. Then begin brushing over the area with a near dry brush not soaked with paint. Now if there is oil on the wall then you need to add something to block the oil from separating the paint. Because if there is oil residue it will cause the paint to crack as it dries. Now spot paint will never really be spotless. I can walk into a room and tell if it has been spot paint or fully painted. You do know want a leopard wall because the only way you can change its spots it to paint the whole wall. If this is for yourself and not a sell or deposit then by all means proceed but if its from a sell or deposit return perspective then do it right. You will not only be proud of your work but your landlord or potential buyer will like it. Now what I do to remedy oil spots with residue that won’t come off after washing I do a skim coat of wall compound over it then scrape it off sand lightly and paint.

I want to touch up the walls, but I don't know what color of paint is in my house. What is the best way to figure it out?

As many have mentioned, you could cut a sample and get it color-matched but it may have a different sheen. Depending on where the touch ups are, this may or may not be quite noticeable. My recommendation: bite the bullet and just reprint the room in whatever color you choose with a paint that can be mixed to match for years to come.

How do you match wall color for a touch up if you don't have the paint can?

Paint technology has moved on a long way and Sarah’s advice is good. ICI paints are able to ‘colour-match’ a particular colour just by scanning a sample. However, if you have the budget, you are much better painting the entire room in ‘your matched colour.’ instead of ‘touching up’. ‘Touching up’ may work with an ‘old mastes’ but a domestic residence? Not worth the effort in attempting to try..

How do you match wall paint when touching up flaws?

Take a thin little sliver of the painted wall down to ACE, LOWES, HOME DEPOT or any paint store where they have equipment that will read the paint and give the employee a paint formula to match the wall color. You don’t need much just 1/2″ square should be more than enough. I usually take it from a inconspicuous area that is easily covered like around the baseboard in a corner. I’ve done this a couple of times recently.

Can you really do touch-ups without painting the entire wall?

Here are the problems with touch up painting walls: New versus old. When your paint first went on the wall, it was new. Sitting in the can for two years or so makes it old. Meanwhile, the first painting has aged with sunlight and dirt. The chances of those two paints working for a touch up, especially when its a dark matte paint, are very slim. There will be a difference in the sharpness of color and the light and darkness (shade). It will be subtle but noticeable. Failure to blend the edges. No matter how close the paints are, if you make a hard edge and don’t feather it (gradually lessen the amount of new paint so that the edge is soft), there will be that noticeable edge. So, if you avoid those too very common problems, you won’t have to re-paint the entire wall. BUT DO A SAMPLE FIRST AND ALWAYS. Never assume that it is going to work because you “followed the rules” or worse “believed that expert, Randy Humphries”. But I do thank you for asking me.

I touched up my walls using the same paint from the same container, but the spots I touched up are shiny and the rest of the wall is eggshell. How do I fix this and why did it happen?

How much time passed between when you originally painted and when you did the touch-up job? I suspect some of the pigment particles settled out, and you didn’t stir the paint thoroughly before doing the touch up work. For high-gloss paint, the manufacturer grinds the pigments very, very fine. At the microscopic level, there’s still some granularity, but as long as the particles are smaller then the wavelength of light, it will look smooth and shiny. The paint surface reflects light almost like a mirror. For flat (eggshell) paint, they grind the pigments more coarsely. The finished surface will have irregularities larger than the wavelength of light. Light gets scattered every which direction, so the surface doesn’t look shiny. My suspicion is that the paint sat for a good long while, and all the coarsest pigment particles settled out, leaving just the very fine ones suspended in the paint. When you touched up, you made shiny spots because all the coarse particles were still sitting at the bottom of the paint can. If my theory is correct, you can fix it by stirring the paint thoroughly, and painting over the shiny spots again. My suggestion: take the paint back to the paint store and ask them to put it on their motorized paint mixer. It will shake the can for a few minutes and get all the pigment particles evenly mixed throughout the paint. A good paint store will do this for you free of charge.


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