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can you buy touch up paint from dealership Post Review

Anyone got any good recommendations for touch up paint for cars? Specifically black cars?Someone scratched my baby and I’m VERY disgruntled. B(

You can find the paint code in you manual or you can call the car dealership and you can buy touch up paint either from the dealership or at an auto repair shop.

Nouzsan says depending on how big the scratches are, if they're smaller you can buy touch up paint from your dealership

can you buy touch up paint from dealership Q&A Review

What numbers are car salesmen running when they leave you waiting in a dealership?

Most people who've never done car sales don't understand the process. Unfortunately, there's been a lot of shady work done on both sides, particularly on the dealership's side. But if you know a few things, you can still get a pretty good deal. First off, the salesperson him or herself is not the person really in control. But they serve an important purpose in facilitating the transaction. On average, about 18% of people who walk into the showroom will buy a car, so let's round that up to 1 in 5. (I'd like to note here that this 18% is widely-used number in the business, but I can't personally seem to find any documentation on this number, but, from my personal experience, it's a reasonable guestimate). So, let's say you work in a dealership that has 100 clients show up on a given Saturday (the busiest day, by far). That dealership can expect to sell about 20 cars. No sales manager could handle that many clients on his/her own, so salespeople are there to handle the time-consuming process of helping the customer select a vehicle, test drive, get a trade evaluated, etc... But, in the majority of cases, they are not entrusted with handling the numbers. But what they do IS important. And letting a salesperson steer you, to some extent, is beneficial to both sides. I was a HORRIBLE salesperson, and never had much control of my customers. For that reason, I lost a lot of sales and had a lot of customers leave unhappy. This is because I didn't limit them. And, while it seems counter-intuitive, limiting the customer helps both sides. Case and point: the lot I worked on was enormous: over 40 acres of Ford vehicles and a smallish used lot. We specialized in F-150 trucks, and had a few hundred on the lot at any given time. When a customer came in, I was supposed to sit him or her down and discuss their wants and needs and then go out and bring up a truck that best fit what they wanted. Way too often, they wanted to go out and look at the "candy store." The problem there is, with all the options and features and interior and exterior colors, there was never a vehicle that was EXACTLY what they wanted. It was often "Oooh, I like this color. Do you have this color with that interior and with this option package, but not with that extra feature I don't need? In most cases, the answer was "no." And, honestly, no one else did either. Or if someone did, it was a store 1,000 miles away and would cost an extra $750 (or more... or less, who knows?) to get it in... and, of course, they didn't want to pay for that. Nor did they want to special-order it and wait 12 weeks (or more, probably), and not qualify for the current rebate package. Oh, and they always wanted THAT truck at invoice price, or less, with all the rebates - including ones they didn't qualify for? (Why can't I get the service members and veterans rebate, my cousin's roommate's brother's great uncle was in the battle of Verdun!). By finding the single vehicle that fit their desires best, I could present them with something that was 'good enough' right now - something that they'd buy today and not get worn out and dissatisfied by going out and looking at a dozen dealerships. But, they'd also want to know how much I could sell the truck for. "hey, what's this one after discount?" And that was something that was realistically impossible to tell them. So, the process is typically to get the customer to decide on a vehicle, understanding what their needs and wants are and roughly what their payment ability was, then find one that best fit. Sure, we wanted to sell for the most we could, but we also knew that we got NOTHING if we didn't actually SELL a vehicle. There's a big balancing act going on here. While disreputable dealers will certainly play games with these numbers, reputable dealers HAVE to play games just to get to the bargaining table. The difference is, reputable dealers aren't just trying to rob the customer - they're trying to balance the customer's happiness with their own happiness in making money. That usually means the customer pays a little more than they absolutely have to, but the dealership gives up a lot of the profit they could, theoretically have been making. Ok, so once a salesperson gets a customer to agree to the "moment of truth" question ("If we can come to terms that are agreeable, would you buy this car today?"), then the numbers game begins. There's a few things to understand here. First, the numbers game is nearly always like a magic trick. Magic is typically a matter of sleight of hand and misdirection. When a magician is trying to get you to focus on something, they nearly always are trying to get you to to NOT see what they're really doing. This is exactly what's happening in a car deal negotiation. There are seven important variables in the equation: 1.) The price they'll sell the car for 2.) The value of your trade 3.) The value of any rebates or incentives 4.) The amount of your down payment 5.) Your interest rate 6.) The term of your loan 7.) The monthly payment There are, in fact, several other numbers involved, but they are much less flexible. Taxes are, for the most part, set in stone by government organizations. Most fees are as well - license, title, inspection, and most other fees are pretty much defined by state, county, or local authorities. There are often a few additional fees that may be negotiable, like the doc fee. For the most part these are not worth fighting over (though an excessive doc fee might be). Many dealerships also add a dealer services or consumer services fee. This one usually IS negotiable or avoidable - be on the lookout for it. Additionally, a lot of dealerships will try to sell you on aftermarket options. The dealership I worked for offered a 3-part package that included an interior and exterior protective coating, road-hazard tire warranty, and nitrogen-filled tires. The dealership cost of this package was only about $300, but we marked it up as $2,000. I'll get to the reason for this shortly. When you say you're interested in buying and they start working up the numbers, the first thing they'll do is pull your credit report to determine your interest rate. If you have a trade, at this time they'll also do an appraisal. A few things to note here: 1.) whatever you think your car is worth, it's almost certainly worth less than that. 2.) don't bother cleaning it up, they're not worried about that. It won't enhance the value (it will if you're selling it as a private sale, not selling to a dealership). 3.) Kelly Blue Book and other guides aren't all that accurate. Whatever they say, take it with a major grain of salt. The salesperson will get this information to the manager, and he will put together an offer. This may take some time while he or she works to find the best options available. If this takes a while, don't be too annoyed: the dealer WANTS to find the best options they can here because they want to maximize the likelihood of you buying the car. Finally, they will draw up an offer and the salesperson will bring it out to present it to you. Now... before this, there's some heavy-duty psychology going on. First, if the salesperson has done his or her job properly they have made you fall in love with the car and you will have already, in your mind, decided that you're buying a car today. This is done to make you willing to fight to keep it. When the salesperson brings out the offer, it's intentionally designed to be high-balled. Let's say you're wanting to purchase a Ford F-150 XLT Texas Edition. Typically the MSRP on these typically run about $35,000 or so. That's the sticker price. The dealer cost usually runs about $33,000 or so, about a $1,500 to $2,000 difference. With the aftermarket add-ons, taxes, and fees, the selling price could be upwards of about $38,000. If there are rebates, however, the dealership will almost certainly factor in the highest amount you are eligible for. Rebates do not affect the dealerships profit, so they will give them to you to lower the price, because it will make you more likely to buy. Rebates are a tricky thing, however. Some have specific requirements (e.g. New college graduate, military appreciation). Others cover only specific trim packages (e.g. the "level" of the vehicle or the option package). Some incentive packages also offer lower interest rates for qualified buyers. Usually when a lower interest rate is available, the rebates aren't offered, or fewer rebates are offered. Depending on the rebates and interest rates as well as your credit, they may or may not be the better option. When the deal comes out it is likely to only highlight four numbers (sometimes arranged in a pattern known as the foursquare): selling price, trade value, down payment, and monthly payment. Most people buy based on what they can afford on a monthly basis, so they focus on the monthly payment. Most buyers also have limited out of pocket cash to put down as a down payment. So these are the two numbers salespeople are trained to focus on. But the payment is entirely dependent upon the other numbers. If you focus on those, then your payment will follow. When I was trained to negotiate, I was trained to read off those numbers like this: "Ok, my sales manager has structured a great deal for you!" We were supposed to be very upbeat here. "The price on the vehicle is $37,478. With the $3,500 in manufacturer rebates we can sell it to you for $33,978, plus tax, title, and license. Your trade payoff is $7,158.40. We'll go ahead and pay that off for you. With $7,000 down, about 20%, we can put your payment at about $765 to $785 per month, with approved credit. If you'll just initial here, I'll get you back to the finance office as quick as possible and get it all cleaned up and gassed up for you." At this, I'd hold out the pen, smiling and wait for the customer to do something. In sales training, they often say "the first one to talk, loses." So generally we were told to just sit there smiling and wait, even if it became uncomfortable. Invariably, the vast majority of customers would say one of two things: "I don't have $7,000 for a down payment," or "that payment is way too high." As the salesperson, I would then start working these two numbers to keep them as high as possible. If they wanted to reduce the down payment, I'd tell them that will increase the payment, about $20 in payment per $1000 in down payment reduction. And vice-versa. At some point, they might object to the selling price. If so, I would scratch that out and say "Ok, I'll see what we can do to reduce that. If we can reduce it, where do you need your payment to be." And then we'd fight to keep that high. If they brought up the trade value, if it's not paid off, I'd say the payoff is factored in and try to fight away from that number. If they wanted a hard number, I'd cross out what was on the page and say I'd find out. I might temporize by saying that we're still looking to get a firm number on the car, comparing it to others sold at auction recently, but that I'm sure we could work that out, now where do you need your payment to be. The whole point was to focus on the payment and keep it as high as possible. By crossing out the values on the page we were trying to eliminate the objections and bring the attention back to the payment. This is how we made money. But a good buyer ignores the payment until the end and fights over the selling price, the trade value, and the interest rate. Yes, interest rate. Notice my spiel didn't mention it? Because we don't want to bring it up until we have to. We can play with that number, and doing so can affect the payment... a lot. I also rarely mentioned a term. Because that affects the payment. The deal I listed off above is structured at 12% interest for 48 months. If I can get the customer to go with $2,000 down and willing to go 72 months, I can drop that payment by $100, and not affect my front-end profit. Incidentally, the way I've structured this deal, that's nearly $5,000 in profit. But if $100 in payment reduction isn't good enough, at $5,000 I still have fighting room. Remember that $2,000 add-on package? That's in there. If I need some room to fight to reduce the payment, I can discount that package. I can take $1,000 off the selling price, drop the payment by $20, and still be well above my cost. I'm also doing something called holding on the trade. The payoff was $7,158.40. I factored in giving them $7,500 for the trade. But my appraisal was closer to $9,000. So I'm making money on the trade in - $1,500 worth. I can give up some ground there and still make a profit. And I still haven't touched the actual selling price of the vehicle itself. I'm still selling at sticker price minus rebates. I have nearly $2,000 of room to discount the vehicle and still make a profit. And that doesn't count the holdback amount. Holdback is an amount that most manufacturers reserve for dealerships that sell the vehicle. In the case of this truck, it's about $1,121.42. The dealership gets that money if they sell the vehicle. But if they need to drop the price to make a sale, they can still break even or better if they dip into that. The salesperson's commission gets hosed, but most dealers offer a minimum commission even if the car is sold below invoice. Ok, so how do you get your best deal? First, go in with your own interest rate. Credit unions are usually the best option. Get a rate you are comfortable with. Last time I bought a car, I went in with a 7.9% rate (my credit was just coming back after having been hosed for a while). This took away one of the dealership's weapons - a big one. They couldn't play the "well, your credit is kinda-iffy, and this is the best we can do," and give you a 15% rate. If you go in with your own rate, the best they can hope to do is beat it. Go in with a realistic expectation of your trade value. You can go to other dealers and get an appraisal and use that as a guideline. Look at Kelly Blue Book, NADA, and Blackbook and see what they say - but grade your car at least one condition lower than you think it is. And still expect the value to be less. Or you can leave the trade out entirely and sell it yourself (though this is a bigger pain for most people). If you DO have a trade, don't mention it until you already have the other numbers. If they ask, say you're keeping your car or selling it to a friend/family member for a higher price than it's worth. When you get toward the end of the negotiation, say "hey, what if I DID want to trade...." This will prevent them from playing as many games with the payment. When it comes to the value of the vehicle itself, you can ask to see the invoice. In some states, I'm told, they HAVE to show you new car invoices. But probably not all. Of course, if they won't, you can get up and walk out the door. That will usually change their mind. If you do look at the invoice, accept that they have to make some money on the deal. If you offer them the invoice price plus a little more, with all the rebates you qualify for, and don't touch their holdback, the sales manager will take that deal. He might try to "bump" you up a bit, but in the end he'll take it. That's a positive deal for him every day. Say invoice plus $500 and you're probably good to go. Those protection packages aren't worthless, but they're really not worth the price. As I mentioned before, ours was about $300 in cost and the rest profit. The paint and interior protection was really not a bad product - but the price was. Look at what they offer and determine what you think it's worth to YOU. Low-ball the offer and you can haggle a bit. Finally, the biggest piece of advice is to NOT fall in love with the car. Detach yourself emotionally. Don't get excited until you're on the road driving home. Be willing to just stand up and say "sorry, I don't like the deal," and walk out the door. Ultimately, the power is all YOURS. You have what they want more than they have what you want. So, go in and shop. Let the salesperson do his or her job by helping you find a car that meets your needs and price range. Let them steer you on options, to some extent. Don't get too picky about color and package - find one you can live with. Then know their tricks and use them to beat the game. Again, if you let them make a little bit of money off you, they'll be a lot easier to deal with. If you go in thinking all they're doing is ripping you off... then you're not going to be happy whatever you do. Lastly, here's an article I found pretty much spot-on about what it's like to be in the business along with some good advice on buying. Read it, it's worth it: Confessions of a Car Salesman

This is my first time turning in a leased vehicle. What should I expect turning the vehicle in? Am I better off turning it in to the dealership with whom I leased it from, or another dealership? Will I get low-balled either way?

You can turn it in where ever the lease company says. You should make an appointment. Clean the vehicle completely. If there is a star in the windshield have it fixed before. If there are scratches buy a bottle of touch up paint and repair. Have the owners manual and spare keys and remotes. The dealer is not getting paid to inspect the vehicle, so they will not take long. If you are pleasant it will go quickly.

I'm from India and I've booked my 1st car, which is a Honda Jazz 2015 Petrol VX variant. What are some ownership and maintenance tips? How I should take care of my new car?

First of all, congratulations! The single most important and best source of information on systematic ownership & maintainence is provided in your owners manual. Spend some time to read it thoroughly and get the doubts cleared with the dealership folks or on forums like Quora. Also, in case of any conflict between the manual and what I or anyone else advices you - go with the manual always! Now here are a few things which might not be in the manual... 1. Your car most probably has tubeless tyres. There would be a spare wheel, jack and wheel nut spanner nonetheless. Don't worry, I am not asking you to dump it or even take it out of the boot. Just add a foot or car charger port operated air pump to the boot. In my entire car ownership experience of 4 cars, I have never been able to change a flat tire on my own. I have broken 2 wheel nut spanners and damaged one wheel nut as well. Most workshops in India - including authorized ones - have no respect for the tightening torque specifications and over-tighten the wheel nuts. The easiest and the best way is to refill air with your pump and drive to the nearest tire repair workshop. In our country you are never too far away from one and you can drive a fair distance by re-inflating a flat tubeless tires without damaging the tire or the rim. 2. If you are a relatively new driver, I would recommend a 5 wheel tire rotation after first 5000 km. You can follow the prescribed schedule (if it has lower frequency) after that. 3. Dealership workshop will hound you with a number of 'additional' jobs particularly in the first few (free) services. They could range from 'engine flushing' (often pronounced as 'flashing' but means the same), protective underbody coat, teflon body coat for scratch resistance and so on. Firstly, you should be wise with your choice. Secondly, try and decide beforehand. That way, you can calmly refuse everything else when the workshop folks bombard you with options. Otherwise, you risk going for unnecessary options and leave out something useful. 4. If the stock car doesn't come with an alloy, it makes sense to switch to alloys rightaway due to our 'unique' road conditions, especially after monsoon. Typically, dealers charge a lot of premium and might not even buy-back your existing rims eventhough they are brand new. So you can ask around in advance and buy it outside. But strictly refrain from deviating from the specifictions, however convincing the seller may sound. You should get the exact same spec rim and retain the tires (or at least replace with the exact same spec tire) as tire dimensions are critical calibration variables in a number of electronic controls like ABS, engine management, etc. 5. It is mandatory for all car makers to provide spare head lights and fuses to you. Make sure you got them and keep them at a safe place in the car. Don't leave them at home, particularly if you are going on a long drive. 6. Try not to run the vehicle down to where your refuel alarm light comes on. Anticipate and refuel a little early. It is bad for the exhaust system to run low on fuel - even worse to run out completely. And exhaust systems are quite costly as they contain precious metal loading for catalysis. 7. Put a sticker of 'Petrol' at the refilling port / cap if it is not provided already. It is quite common in India to take it for granted that you have a diesel car. Make sure while refilling, nonetheless. 8. Use your outer rear view mirrors while driving - even on the highway. Similraly, fold them everytime you park. The good thing about modern mirrors is, you can set them once and then fold / unfold them without disturbing the visibility setting. While setting, make sure you minimize your blind spot. Check owners manual on how to do that. 9. Try and wash the car yourself once every two weeks even if you have someone to do that on a daily basis. This helps you inspect the car for scratches, dents, etc. It is quite important (especially living in coastal areas) to 'touch-up' the paint wherever the metal is exposed to prevent corrosion outbreak. Also, I would not recommend to wash the vehicle daily because that is usually done with a bucket of water and cloth. This can successively reduce the shine of your vehicle paint, particularly if the water salt content is high or if sand particles are in abundance where you live. 10. Except for minor dents, never put off / procrastinate any maintainence activity. In case of cars, a stitch in time saves nine hundred! Wish you miles and miles of happy driving. :)

As a car salesperson, what is the best way to learn about a car brand so I can hit my sales target?

The Ultimate Guide To Increasing Sales The Blueprint for increasing ,sales,, from first hand experience in a high ticket item market. What is the best way to sell fifteen cars a month? How to sell 15 cars a month? Back in 2006, I used to sell 23 a month. I can help. Maybe. Who knows. What I would suggest? Know your ,client,. Their lifestyle. What they do for fun. Where they went on vacation. Then utilize heavy follow up. Keep track of your 4-3-2-1 process. Understand everything about your ,product,. Follow the ten steps to a sale. Use a SPACED outline when selling your vehicle. This works basically in any industry. All you have to do is modify some of the steps. E.G. a realtor would show an open house as opposed to doing a test drive. 1. Meet and Greet. Your client will know whether they like you or not within the first forty five seconds. Do this extremely well. Don’t lack in any way whatsoever. Example: Hello, welcome to XYZ dealership, my name is Leonard, and you are? Shake hand firmly. How may I help you today? 2. Sell yourself. Build rapport with your client. Find common ground. This is extremely important. 3. Sell the dealership. Talk about the great things your ,dealership, does for your community. How long your dealership has been in business. Some perks. Talk about how great your service department is and how they take care of their customers. This is kind of important. 4. Qualify. Get a general ideal of what they want. Two doors or four doors. Car, truck or SUV. Small, mid sized, or full vehicle. Light, medium or dark color. To properly qualify a customer, show them a model less than what they are looking for first, to make sure the vehicle they want isn’t out their price range. Example, if someone wants a mid sized vehicle, show them a Corolla before you show them a Camry. If the customer overpredicted what they want, then they will say that’s what they want. If they are certain what they want, then you helped reaffirm them by taking them to the Camry afterwards. Walk them up to the window sticker, and ask them, does this vehicle seems to have the features you are looking for? The customer is only looking at the price to see if it is within their budget. If they say no, move them to another vehicle. If they say yes, then move to step five. Exception: If you have ,any, warning signs, like the customer talks about a bankruptcy or some kind of other financial hardship during the qualification stage, then move directly to step 8 first before going back to step 5, so you can figure out what used car on your lot will work with their budget. No one wants to buy a $7,000 used car when they test drove a brand new $20,000 car first. 5. Demo the vehicle. Do a walk around. A quality walk with a test drive should take around thirty to forty five minutes. Ask, other than price, what are you looking for most in a vehicle? They will answer with one of the following. Safety Performance Appearance Comfort Economy Dependability First, get the key. If keys are stored inside a box at the car, it makes the work a lot easier. If not, then tell the customer you will be right back while you go to the main office to access the key for the vehicle. Then come back, open the driver door to the car, then open the trunk, hood, and all the doors to the vehicle. Move the customer from the window sticker to under the hood. Explain the vehicle following what they explained they are looking for in spaced. Remember, what you explain your car has that the other sales person doesn’t makes your car better, even if the other car has all the same features. Point out even the smallest of things. Explain feature, function, benefit. Example: The most important feature to me is safety. Okay perfect, let me go over the safety features of the vehicle with you. Do you know what this is? No. These are your anti lock brakes. They pulsate twenty two beats per second. When you are about to get into an accident, or when a vehicle in front of you suddenly slams their brakes, the vehicle maintains control and doesn’t skid forward, allowing you to maneuver your way to avoid an accident. That’s a feature that can save you in a scary situation, right? Nod head up and down. Yes. Now see this here. This little square on the bumper comes out. If, God forbid, you were ever to fall into a ditch, this little square pops off. You are able to have a tow truck tie a rope to pull your vehicle out of a ditch. That would be very important, wouldn’t it? Nod head up and down. Look over here. Do you see these little indentations on the hood? These are crumble zones. What they do, is absorb the crash energy and (deflect, depending on brand) absorb the impact of the crash. This means that if an accident were to ever happen, instead of the crash energy being sent straight through your body, crushing your internal organs, it would be absorbed and deflected by the vehicle. That could possibly save your life, couldn’t it? Nod head up and down. Touch on other parts of SPACED as well in the presentation, but make sure to put a lot of focus and emphasis on the key issue the customer is shopping for. , ,Move to the driver side of the vehicle. Point out the B pillars. Explain how they absorb impacts. Point out benefit. Talk about paint. Door Guards. Other things. Move to trunk. Show roominess. Pull down seats. Show how much storage room there is. Talk about benefits. Get inside the trunk. Show them how much room there really is. Close the trunk lid on yourself. Open it back up with the emergency latch. Show the customer that even if their child is stuck inside, that they could get out of the situation. Tell them to get in the trunk and try it for themselves. If they do, then you’ve sold the vehicle right then and there, almost guaranteed. Move over to the right side of the vehicle. Let the customer sit in the back seat and see how roomy it is. Point out features. Move customer to passenger seat. Close the door. Get in the driver’s seat. Explain more features. Turn on the vehicle. Ask, do you see how quiet the vehicle is? Explain navigation, if there is one. Go over all the interior features and where all the buttons are. Turn on radio. Explain presets. Move car into reverse or drive, pull out from the parking spot, then drive to the front of the main office building. 6. The Test Drive. Ask the customer for his ID. Go inside and scan or copy the ID and do what you have to do. Drive the car off the lot. Accelerate heavily. Ask, did you see how well this vehicle accelerated? Brake hard (in a safe location). Ask, do you see how well this vehicle stops? Pull over. Switch seats. Guide the customer around a square. Only take right turns. On the test drive, you stay quiet. You only give directions and ask three questions. I recommend stating one question on each of the turns. Question number 1. Does the vehicle have enough power for you? Yes. Question number 2. Does the vehicle fit your comfort needs? Yes. Question number 3. Overall, does this vehicle have everything you’re looking for in your next vehicle? Yes. 7. Trial Close. Once you pull back in the dealership, guide your customer to a parking spot. When you get out and they hand you the key, you ask one question. Mr./Ms. ____, other than price, is there anything else that is stopping you from buying the vehicle today? If the customer says yes, ask what it is. Handle that objection. If the customer insists, then let them go and follow up with them. Remember to give them back their ID. If you don’t, they will think you’re deceptive and evil. If the customer says no, you move to the next step. 8. Write up. Take the customer inside. Seat them at a table. Ask them if they want a water, soda or coffee. If they do, PAY FOR IT AND BUY IT FOR THEM WITH YOUR OWN MONEY. Then print a four square and a credit application and bring everything back to the table with you. Fill out a credit application with the customer, first by copying the main information off the license. Then ask if this is their current residence. Fill out work history, etc. Once that is complete, start working the four square. There are four boxes here. Trade. Price. Down Payment. Payment. Personally, I leave the price box blank all the time. Then move to the trade. If they do not have a trade, the deal is easy. Trades are usually what kills a deal, especially when a customer is upside down. If they do have a trade, appraise the vehicle with the customer. To appraise the vehicle, take down pertinent information like miles, how much the customer owes on their loan, etc. When outside with the customer, make it look like you’re really examining their car. If you have no clue what you’re doing, at least make it look like you do. Start the car. Put it in all the gears. Test the radio. Look at the seats in detail. Then go outside. Open up the hood. Just look at things and make like a hmm.. sound. Go over the exterior. Touch every single blemish. Examine it. Then make another hmm sound. Don’t say anything, just touch and make a noise. Go back inside. Try to have a basic understanding of book values of vehicles. Let’s say wholesale book on the customer’s car is $10,000. Tell the customer, the last vehicle of this type you took in wasn’t in as good shape as your vehicle and wasn’t as well maintained. We gave them $5,000 for his vehicle. What that what you are looking for? If they say “No, I was looking for $12,000!”, then you pause… Shake your head a little… Look down and say… I can’t guarantee anything as we haven’t thoroughly appraised your vehicle yet, but if I could get you (Move in $500-$1,000 intervals, depending on how much you low balled the customer) $5,500 on your vehicle, would that work? He will probably lower his offer, yet still probably be around the $11,000 range. Repeat the same thing. Ask him if you can get him $6,000 for his vehicle, if that would work. They’ll stated something else. Then ask, how close to $6,000 can you come? They’ll give you a number. Tell them you’ll try to get this number for them and you’ll fight for them. Write down all these numbers. Write your numbers big. Write the customer’s numbers small. Cross out the numbers that didn’t work. Circle the one that the customer wants. Next, move to the down payment of the vehicle. Let’s pretend the car is $20,000 to make it easy. Tell the customer, based on bank guidelines, the average down payment is 30%. That would be $6,000. They’ll respond and react, saying maybe they only have $1,000 down. Cross out the $6,000. Ask them if they could come up with $5,500. In most cases, the customer will move up his down payment to $1,250-$1,500. Ask them if they could come up with $5,000. By this time, the customer will be up to maybe $2,000. Then ask them, how close to $5,000 can you come? $2,250 or $2,500? They may say $2,250. Then ask them, if I were to give you x days (I think it’s 14, could be longer or shorter), then how much closer to the $5,000 can you come? Circle that number. Then move to payments. Take the amount of the vehicle and times it by three. Then make all the numbers odd, so the math is harder. Say, based on industry standards, the average payment for this vehicle will be $593. If someone calls you out and say this is ridiculous, how did you come up with that figure, tell them it’s based on 3 years financing at a 7% interest rate. It will be extremely rare for someone to call you out on this, and they will just work the payment instead. Most people will toss out a number like $200. For some reason, that’s the magic number everyone has when they want a vehicle. Ask them if they will be able to afford the vehicle for $553 a month. They’ll probably bump themselves up to $225-$250. Then ask if they could do $537 a month. They’ll probably bump themselves up to $300. Ask them how close to $537 they can come. Whatever they respond with, give them a range. So if they say I can do $325, say so basically you can do $325-$350, right? They’ll say yes. Right now, you’re looking at a loser deal if you write it up exactly as stated. However, this is a negotiation. You’re putting realistic images into the mind of the customer. The customer is trying to state their position with their irrational expectations. Your job is to spend quality time doing this negotiation so the customer can understand that he’s going to be paying more than he wants to pay. Also, inflating the numbers fixes any situation where a trade with negative equity can out price the customer, because they will have much more realistic expectations when you come back with a price. The $2,250 for a down payment will cover a little more than the taxes. The $350 a month will cover the majority of the cost of the vehicle, aside from about $2,500 of the MSRP, at five years at a 7% interest rate. Tell the customer you’re going to be working for them and you’ll fight for them to try to do your best to get the deal they want. Present this offer to your desk manager. Fight for the customer. Then when your manager presents you with an offer, take it back to the customer. Tell the customer you went to bat for them. Present them with your offer. If your product demo was amazing, they will agree to buy on the counter offer. If not, then you will have to go through this stage about one to two more times. Eventually, you’ll come to an agreement and the customer will agree to buy the vehicle. Then comes the next step. 9. Finance. Wait with the customer and have small talk until the finance office is ready for them. While they’re in the finance office, take the vehicle to have it cleaned and prepared. Once the customer is out of finance, sit with them and go over ,all, the booklets with the customer and explain them. Explain what the lemon law booklet is for, the tire warranty, the owner’s manual, the warranty, functionality of the keys, everything. Make sure you include your business card with your direct cell phone number into their owner’s manual. Then go with the customer to the vehicle, and if it has a navigation, explain everything you know about how it works, sync the customer’s phone, etc. Then wave off the customer as they leave, only after thanking them for their business. Then comes the final step. 10. Ask for referrals. Call the customer in a few days and ask how they are enjoying their vehicle. Also, ask them if they have any referrals they would like to send off your way. That would be how to better the efficiency of your sales. Now, there’s a science to track all of this. It is called a 4-3-2-1 sheet. It is an excel spread sheet with a lot of boxes, printed on a piece of paper. There is a row dedicated to each day. Most people use it as a tally sheet. The first box is how many customers you talk to that day. The box after that is how many customers you test drove. The following box is how many people you wrote up. The last box is how many car sales you have. With these numbers, you can calculate your percentage of customers to test drives to write ups to sales, to see exactly where you need improvement. I think I only talked to 60 customers on the month I sold 23 vehicles, so I had a very high closing ratio. However, I really knew how to study the science behind this sheet. The target goal is to have 85-95% of the people you speak with test drive a vehicle. 65-75% of the people you test drive should be written up. 40-50% of the customers you write up should leave with a vehicle. Back in 2006, the average ,car salesman, would encounter 3 customers a day. Car salesmen usually work six day weeks, so that would be about 25 days a month. That would total up to about 75 customers. The average ,car sales, person, at that time, was selling about 8 cars a month. Based on the 4-3-2-1 sheet, if 8 cars a month were sold, that means 16 were being written up. The other 59 weren’t. If the test drive ratio should be 85-95% and the write up ratio should be 65-75%, then we can see that the fault doesn’t lie in getting the customer to the write up table, but instead, it lies in getting the customer into either a test drive or a write up. The reason for this is that most car salesmen ask their customers if they want to test drive the car. If you read through my process, you can see that I never really asked the customer anything, except for what I knew they wanted. I just assumed the sale all the way through, from the very beginning. If only 16 people are being written up, more than likely only 32 people went on test drives. That means that 43 people, or 57% of your leads were wasted, without being able to fully experience the vehicle. In order to improve this ratio, you need to demo your product. You need to get your customers excited. You need to test drive your customers. You also need to follow up, because a lot of the people who were just looking that day will be ready to buy in a week to a month. Let’s say I sold 23 cars. Let’s say six of those sales were made by following up with customers who had once walked on the lot. So, that month, I sold 17 cars from new business. That means I wrote up 34 customers. I wrote up about 75% of the people who went on test drives. That would be a total of 45 people who went on test drives. I test drove about 75% of the people I spoke with. Personally, according to this sheet, I spoke to less people than my fellow sales person. However, my conversion ratio was much higher. Without the follow up, I sold more than twice as many cars than they did. The real life scenario was interesting as well. The number one person in the store sold 25 vehicles. I was number two at 23. Number three had 18. Number four had 15. Then the rest were at 12 or less, in a store of fifty car sales associates, internet inclusive. Why? Because I didn’t prejudge anyone and I followed a strict outline to my process. I went over my numbers every single day to identify where I was lacking, to understand what I needed to do to improve. Do you see how raising the test drive amount can raise the amount of vehicles sold in a month? Oh wait, I think I showed you ,how to sell more vehicles, than your target goal of 15. I take back some of my advice. Don’t try too hard! Read more on my blog: ,The Ultimate Guide To Increasing Sales

What if you don't repair your car after it gets keyed?

Not a huge problem but, If metal is showing through the scratches, it will eventually start to rust there. It would take several years to develope into anything approaching serious. You can go to a dealership or an auto parts store and buy touch up paint the same color as your car. It’s not expensive. It comes in a spray can, and also in a bottle with a brush like nail polish. I’ve used both. You will want to use the bottle and brush (trust me.) I’ve never had my vehicle keyed, but have had plenty of scuffs, dents, dings, and chips on my cars over the years. I’ve even pulled out some bad dents, and used body filler when it was necessary. Paint and body repair isn’t hard to do in small areas. It is hard to get a larger area to look perfect if you don’t have access to some good tools and supplies. I could go into detail here about how to go about it, but I’m sure you can find plenty of instruction on YouTube. If you aren’t inclined to do some touch up on the keyed area of your car, you could just use some car wax to cover the area, then lightly buff it off. The wax will get down into the scratches and help keep it from rusting. To be safe, you will want to re-apply wax a few times a year. Do NOT wax the scratched area if you plan on using touch up paint, because it would be very difficult to completely remove the wax from the scratches, and paint won’t stick to wax.

What is the best way to fix deep car body scratches?

Short answer: Pay a dent/scratch repair service a few bucks OR spend $200 at your local body shop for some paint polishing/wet sanding. Long answer: 1. Don't even bother with the "touch-up" paint bottle your dealership gave you. That stuff is worthless...unless you're an artist or you've got the perfect type of paint damage, that stuff always end up looking terrible. 2. Paint scratches and chips can be air-brushed quickly and cheaply. This isn't a "permanent" solution, but it's good enough to cover up paint damage for a while. This is the process that most of the paint and dent repair companies use, but like I said it doesn't last forever (figure a year or two at the very max). However, for $50-$100 you can have a whole bunch of scratches and paint chips touched up. Tip: This is great when you're looking to sell or trade your car...your local dealership used car manager can probably recommend someone who does decent work cheaply. 3. Damaged paint can be polished and/or wet-sanded by an expert and look very, very good. The key is experience - you don't want to tackle this type of project unless you're willing to live with the results of an amateur attempt. For $100-$200, most body shops will polish your vehicle's paint and it will look brand new when they're all done. They'll also do some wet-sanding on the deep scratches and smooth out a lot of damage. 4. Finally, sometimes deep scratches can't be repaired using easy or cheap methods. If this is the case, hire a quality body shop to paint your car. Make sure that they intend to blend and re-clear. This won't be cheap ($500+), but it will fix all sorts of problems. Your insurance company may cover the repairs here as well. 5. If you're not able to spend any money, you can buy a cheap scratch repair kit at your local auto parts store or online. These kits aren't permanent (and don't always work), but when they do you'll be impressed. Just don't be surprised if your scratch re-appears after a few washes.

How are car dealerships able to sell below invoice if it's not forged?

First off, let me state my qualifications. I have spent the last ten years working in the Automotive industry, first as a salesperson, then as an internet sales manager, then I left the dealership to work for a software company that provides software and services to dealerships. One of the key things my company's software does is help calculate and structure deals, so I am intimately aware of how deals are put together. I am less knowledgeable about the back-end of the accounting in a dealership, but I do know some of it. There's several ways the dealership can sell below invoice and still make a profit, and sometimes, they'll sell anyway. First, let me be clear on something: dealerships rarely, if ever, forge invoices with different numbers. This is fraud, and a felony. If you show a customer what you claim to be the invoice and have knowingly doctored the numbers and you are caught doing it, you are going to be in very, very deep trouble. And even if you weren't in legal trouble, you'd almost certainly lose your franchise from the manufacturer. Dealerships have done, and some continue to do, a lot of underhanded things and have engaged in outright fraud in the past. This is no longer nearly the problem people believe it to be. As it is, dealerships are lawsuit magnets. The dealership I used to work at was always being sued by multiple unhappy customers. Our General Sales Manager was in court at least once per week, often two or three times. I can guarantee you the dealership did everything they had to in order to stay within the confines of the law. They might stretch it at times, but they would never knowingly violate the law. While I was selling cars, we watched one of the largest Chevy dealerships in the nation get shut down and several employees get prosecuted for violations of several laws. We were constantly on guard. At least in my state, there is no law I know of requiring a dealer show the customer the invoice. Of course, that said, if a dealer won't, then the customer doesn't have to buy from that store. If a dealer won't show you the invoice when you ask, then you have every right and reason to get up and walk away from the negotiations. What does the invoice show? Each manufacturer will have a different invoice format, but they all will show about the same thing. They will show the base price of the vehicle and the base MSRP, along with the included options and their base price and MSRP, then a total invoice price and MSRP. Depending on the manufacturer and model, the MSRP will be a few to several percentage points over the total of the sum of the base vehicle price and cost. Additionally, most invoices will show additional numbers such as holdback and special pricing for employees and corporate partners. I worked for Ford, and one of the numbers we had was called X plan, which was a special price offered to partner companies. My girlfriend used to work for a company that did sales and repair of tractor-trailer rigs. Her company was an x-plan partner, so she could get that price, if she so desired. I remember one promotion we were doing offering that price to the public, otherwise, you had to have special qualification to get it. In theory, the invoice price is what the dealership paid for the vehicle. However, there are some modifications to that. For example, let's say you're a fairly large dealership that sells 200 new cars every month. In my dealership's case, we sold a LOT of F-150 pickups. Now, when the new model comes out, because we know we're going to sell a lot, we ordered a lot. Let's say we ordered 1500 of them from the factory. A bulk-buy like that is going to get a volume discount. I was never involved in that, but I know there were some discounts involved. Let's say we got a 10% discount on those vehicles. If the average invoice price was $22,000, then the total invoice price would be $33,000,000. But if we got a 10% discount, we'd have saved $3.3 million. But we don't have to disclose that, we just know we can factor that into deals. A vehicle that had an invoice price of $22,000 would really have cost us just under $20,000. So, we have $2,000 we can cut from the price and still break even or make a profit. There's also incentive money. I don't know what, if any, Ford was offering. But I remember listening to a program on NPR's This American Life (,129 Cars - This American Life,) where they followed employees around a car dealership for a week. The dealership had to sell 129 cars to make their quota. If they did, they would get a bonus from the manufacturer. If not, no bonus. So, forget the volume discounts for a moment, let's say you are selling everything at invoice cost. You are just covering your cost that way (forget other things like keeping the lights on and operations costs). Now, if you hit the quota, you get your bonus (I think it was $85,000 for this bonus on this program). That's over and above anything you make selling over cost - IF you hit the quota. Let's say you're 5 cars short for the month, and it's the last day. Is it worth it to cut $1,000 more off the cost of each car? Sure, because when it's all said and done, you sell those 5 cars at a $1,000 loss, but you get your $85,000 bonus, which means you really only lost $5,000 on those and got $80,000 in bonus. At least one other response mentioned the holdback. This is a commission paid to the dealership when the car is sold. I sold a lot of F150 XLT models. The invoice price at the time was around $22,000, give or take. The holdback was about $1500 or so, give or take. That's money that the dealership gets if I sell the car. If they really paid $22,000 to get the vehicle from Ford, then they could cut $1,000 off that and STILL make $500 in profit. Again, not counting volume... nor bonuses. By the way, rebates are all on the manufacturer side. And the dealership will do everything they can to give you every rebate you qualify for - because that doesn't touch the dealership's bottom line at all, but allows them to discount the car all the same. You're far more likely to buy if they can get you a $3,000 rebate than if there's no rebates, right? And it doesn't affect their price/cost at all, so they're going to give those to you and maybe even find some you didn't know you qualified for. Ok, so how else can they make money? Aftermarket. My dealership had an aftermarket guy who took a "turn" on every customer that signed a buyer's order before they went to finance (finance is where the deal is finalized, but the buyer's order is a semi-commitment, typically makes customers feel they've actually bought the car when, in fact, they're still waiting on the contract to be written up). The aftermarket guy would talk to people about all sorts of add-ons. If you’re buying a truck, you probably want a bed liner, right? He does that. How about bed cover? How about step bars (if they're not already on the vehicle)? Navigation system? Upgraded stereo? Additional tinting? All that and more. Just like the car itself, he has a price and a cost. He might charge you $1,000 for an in-dash navigation system, but his cost is only $600 - that's profit for the dealership. This brings me to another way they make money. Every new vehicle on our lot had an addendum sticker added next to the standard window sticker. This sticker always had three items on it. First was a special sealant package. This was an overcoating to protect the paint and finish on the car and an interior coating to protect upholstery. Second, we included a road-hazard tire warranty. If a tire blows out due to a defect, the tire manufacturer’s warranty covers that. But what if you run over something in the road and it blows a tire? This was basically insurance on your tires. Then, we would fill (and as needed top-off) your tires with nitrogen instead of regular air. This has less thermal expansion and holds pressure better, so it's better for your tires overall. These three items together had a price tag of about $2,000. Our cost? About $200. I remember the nitrogen cost us about $8, and the sealant package was about $75, with the rest being the cost of the tire coverage. That's a huge markup, and you didn't HAVE to get it, but the sticker was included on the vehicle and we'd always write-up the deal with the price included. We let people ASSUME it was already on the vehicle and would only put it on if they bought it. In negotiation, then, if I sold the car itself at invoice, but held the cost of the addendum, we made about $1,800 in profit. I could even discount the addendum package and still make money. Then, there's finance. When the finance agent is working on the deal, he's going to shop it around several banks. Let's say three banks accept the deal. One will do 7%, one 8%, and one 4%. 4% will, obviously, give you the best deal. But the dealership does not HAVE to tell you it’s 4%. They could change it to 6 on the contract. Then, when the deal is sold to the bank, they get the difference, which can be hundreds or thousands of dollars. (The reverse can be true as well, if a customer is pushing hard on a deal, they might have to "buy down" the interest rate to get the deal done -which they might do if there's enough profit in the deal already). The finance guy can also sell you extended warranties, service programs, and more which all have their own price and cost. Some of these can be very good deals for you, especially if you hit hard and drive the price down. Others just line the dealership's pockets. The only way to know what's what is to spend time doing your homework ahead of time. And then there's service. If they can convince you to come in to their service department instead of going somewhere else, they can make a bundle off you over time. Even if it's just standard maintenance like oil changes, tires, and the like. It adds up. Lately, dealerships make a lot more money off service than they do new car sales. And there's even times when dealers will actually take a true loss, just to clear space on the lot. If the new models are arriving soon and they've got too many old models in stock, they know they need to get rid of those fast, because typically rebates will expire when the new models hit the lot, or very soon thereafter. So, it might be worth losing a little money, say $1500 per vehicle, on the remainders instead of getting stuck with a $22,000 vehicle that no one wants. Overall, it's important to realize that you and the dealership have different perspectives. You're trying to buy ONE vehicle, now. They're playing a long game and working to keep their overall selling prices over what their actual cost is. If you do your homework and are a strong negotiator, you can get a good deal. And if you're HAPPY with your deal, regardless of how good it is, that's what counts most of all.

When were you treated poorly by a car dealership until they found out you were rich?

I gave up going to car dealerships a long while back although I did go to one four years ago when for some reason I decided to buy a new car for a change. The thing is they never find out how much money I have because they never ask and just assume I am broke as I must look that way naturally. The Kia dealer four years back missed out on an easy sale but the salesman was so convinced I was a time waster he just gave me the bums rush out of the showroom. This was a pity as I had visited them 6 months before with my 8 year old Kia Sorento after some kind person had stolen the door mirrors. The salesman then had been an older guy and had fixed me up with a coffee, sorted out the parts and had them fitted free of charge. Of course I was all fired up to buy a new car from them when the time came six months later. The new young guy obviously was an ace salesman and determined I was not a suitable client. How he made this determination I shall never know. Should I ever be in the market again for a new car the Mercedes dealer is going to first to visit as again when I went to buy some touch up paint for my SL Mercedes a year or so back I was given the red carpet treatment and a free cap with the company logo on it as well, plus coffee and biscuits. Now what baffles me is that I spent 20 years in sales myself selling high end tooling and products for my own company and the golden rule is never to judge a prospect by their appearance. I well remember selling a $1 million order to a company President who was wearing a T shirt, shorts and grubby sneakers at an exhibition in Las Vegas. Did the rules and training change at some point, I suppose I will never find out now as I am too old to bother. I just get the impression though that a lot of younger folks have no interest in the actual face to face selling anymore and it is all supposed to be done online and maybe they can get an instant credit check or sneaky peak at your bank balance or more probably your Crypto wad. The killer punch and biggest hurdle that any sales person has to overcome is the fear of rejection and if I remember correctly that was the first part of the training you did. Perhaps now the average person can no longer cope with a few rejections and they just find it easier to ignore a high proportion of prospects that they deem to be unsuitable. So I really will probably never find out before I pass what it is like to be treated well in a car sales emporium unless I get an old school practitioner of the sales craft.

Is it better to buy a used car compared to a new car?

I’ve bought several used cars and motorcycles in my life. Also some new ones. The only “truth” I’ve learned from the experience is that I treat my vehicles a helluva lot better than most people. I keep them clean, garaged and well-serviced. I change fluids and filters before the recommended intervals. I stay away from off-brand gas. When something goes wrong I research the shops that will do the work. If the paint gets a scuff from some careless choad in a Costco parking lot, I use buffing compound, touch-up paint and a quality carnauba wax to repair the damage. My point is, buying a used car can be a crap shoot, like adopting an adult dog. You don’t know how it was treated. You could be buying somebody else’s problems. The only thing you can be certain about is that if there is damage somewhere on the vehicle the seller will do his very best to conceal it. That’s not always the case of course. The 1989 BMW K75S motorcycle I bought used was immaculately treated and was problem-free until the day I sold it to buy another Harley. However the 1987 Pontiac SE AWD I bought from a dealer was a horror show. Every time I took that car for more than a 50 mile trip it cost me $400 in repairs somewhere: struts, computer, power windows, load balancers, etc. When the universal went on the Delaware Memorial Bridge in the middle of a blizzard I promised I’d never buy another used car. I donated it to the Jewish Heritage for the Blind having put less than two thousand miles on it. My conscience wouldn’t let me sell Christine to another hapless fool like me.

How do I find a good McLaren?

How do I find a good McLaren? The OP is wondering how to get a “good” McLaren and essentially defines “good” as not having problems that require the car to be in the shop proportionally more than he can drive it or that render the car too costly to maintain. I have owned 3 super cars in the last few years, two of which were McLarens. I’ve also researched, drove, and/or negotiated attempts at buying over 100 other super cars in the same period that I abandoned for one reason or another. As a result, the two McLarens that I have owned would have qualified for “good” under this definition. I had a 2016 McLaren 650s Spider pictured below: I currently have a 2020 McLaren 720s Spider custom made for me pictured below: I’d say the overriding goal you need to achieve is that of proper expectations. Nothing is ‘perfect’ and you need to understand the market your pocketbook puts you in and what you’re willing to accept. These two areas will be different for every person but essentially come down to these four things: Understand the value of the car you are considering Plan a budget you will accept as the cost of ownership Buy from a trusted source Accept that the car will have quirks - just not any that affect its value or your enjoyment Get these four things ‘right’ for you and the odds for future enjoyment of your car will be in your favor. Here’s what you need to understand for each of these four areas. Understand the value of the car you are considering It’s imperative you understand what you will be buying from a relative value equation. Certain options, vehicle condition, mileage, maintenance records, and models will greatly affect the price of the car. You don’t want to pay more than you should. You’re not going to make money on this type of car, but you also don’t want to put too much money into the deal for the wrong reasons. In this type of market, the first thing you must do is get over sticker shock. Whether you intend to buy a new or used model, all pricing will be relative to the MSRP on the car’s configuration. You need to know that everything on a McLaren will be in the 6-figure range. Options will be in the 4-figure range and up. No car will be a ‘base’ model as well, face it, people buying these things aren’t usually looking for entry level standards. So, options are plentiful and expected. Unlike say Porsche, McLaren doesn’t publish MSRP on their website so it’s hard to know just how much the paint on the car you’re considering is actually adding to the total. Usually dealers spec cars with the ‘right’ options for moving them. A few though are under-spec’d and others are over-spec’d. Always ask to see the actual window sticker for the car. It’ll have all the actual correct specs – don’t rely on what you read or hear about the car you’re considering. You need to educate yourself and one good place is an owner website called “,McLaren Life,”. People will post price lists, dealers will answer questions, and owners discuss their situations across the spectrum of McLaren models. It’s a worldwide community so you can get a good idea on what types of things people experience. Special note - Don’t buy a car that’s been modded. Lots of people do this to McLarens and I am sure they’re OK a lot of times but unless you know exactly what’s going on you should stay away. A lot of things void the warranty or just create trouble no one wants to be accountable for. One time I took my 650 to the dealer for something and a guy was pulling into the place ahead of me with a 675. He tells me he mods cars and is delivering this one for a customer who had it done. He then tells me I should get a new exhaust system and he can increase my HP by 50 or more. Gives me his card. I am talking to my salesman and mention this ‘offer’. My salesman just says “oh, a lot of our customers use this guy”. “And…” I say. “Let’s just say they all tend to have problems later” was his response. Make sure the car you buy hasn’t been in an accident. This is the one thing that will devalue the car and hence a lot of owners will try to get the car totaled by their insurance company if there’s even a minor accident. Of course, that isn’t a good value for the insurance company so the owner may not report it and get it fixed on his dime. So, it might not show on a Carfax. See my point about buying from a trusted source. Plan a budget you will accept as the cost of ownership At this point you should understand what various models cost with the most desirable options - both new and used. You should use this information to set a budget for what you will pay for the car as well as insurance and maintenance. It’s important to your ‘satisfaction’ to realize there will be costs beyond the initial purchase and you have to do some realistic reckoning of the additional funds you need to spend and just accept that. Failure here alone will make you frustrated and unhappy with your endeavor. For the budget, you need to figure out if you’ll buy a new or used one. There are perks and potential issues with either route. McLaren warrants their cars for 3 years bumper to bumper for unlimited mileage and it’s transferrable. After that, you can purchase an extended warranty on the car for up to 7 more years. If the car is 10 years or older, it cannot be covered with a warranty. Currently, the earliest production consumer model is the 2012 MP12c so essentially all of them can still be put under a warranty. The extended warranty covers most of the car except electronics and cosmetic things. It’s pricey too at about $6k for 1 year and $10k for a 2-year plan. I’d get it though. A lot of McLaren owners are of the catch and release variety – they buy the car, barely drive it, and then trade it in for something else. Hence, there’s a very good resale market for McLarens with many that are still under warranty. There’s also a steep depreciation from MSRP on most models so there’s another reason to consider a used one. Of course, getting a loan on a used one is more expensive than a new one. You also have to double check cars that are out of warranty. If you go the used route, do not buy one without a warranty. And paradoxically, do not buy used ones with low mileage. The “run in” for a McLaren is 625 miles. Run in is very structured and you’ll void the warranty if you don’t follow it. What can’t you do? Launch it Use kick down Full throttle Track use Speeds over 150Mph Hard braking Down shifting to brake Basically, all the fun stuff. I’ve seen 3-year-old models with 500 miles on them. You don’t want an unwarranted car that hasn’t been driven. The tires alone are dry rotted at this point. Seals will break and all the things that are going to go wrong and would have been covered by a warranty will be yours to discover and pay for. McLarens are race cars first. These cars are built to fail fast. That means any fault – design or unintended - will be discovered by use and mileage. I was at the track one day and saw this: Car needed trailered to the dealer and we found I had blown 2 radiator hoses. It took 48 hours of labor alone to replace them! All covered by warranty but imagine if not. I had similar experiences with my Porsche which blew both of the front stability (PASM) modules on consecutive days at the track. It was $5k each to fix and was covered by the warranty. New or used, you will still have to pay your own maintenance. McLarens are on a 12-month service interval which runs ~$1500 first year and ~1800 the next two. This is another instance where used can be a problem. You need to check with McLaren service to see if the car was kept on the maintenance schedule. The first McLaren I considered was a 2012 MP12c Coupe. After driving it at an exotic used car lot, I called the local dealer to ask about an extended warranty. The service manager explained to me that the car would have to be inspected first which was a $650 charge and I’d have to pay for anything found BEFORE I could buy coverage. And because McLaren tracks these things he knew that car had never been brought in for service. One of the things the car had was cloudy head lights. He said that had been part of a recall that the owner never actioned and hence wasn’t covered at this point. He told me the replacement charges were $10k PER HEADLIGHT. So, that ended that deal for me. You also need to have someone check the pads and rotors. All McLarens have Carbon Ceramic brakes. They last a long time but when they go it’s very expensive. You have to replace the axle as a pair too. So, it’s 4K for the pads and 16K for the rotors if by chance they were scored or warped. Around $32K for the whole car. I owned my 650 for 3 years and put over 15,000 miles on it. I took it to the track daily and only used 50% of the pads for reference. I did go through 4 sets of tires at around $1500 a shot. There are a lot of reasons to buy a new one. You can get a good deal on one on the lot. You have a full warranty and no wear on things that are on your dime like tires, brake pads and rotors. And also know you shouldn’t pay MSRP for a new one. You can usually negotiate a 15% discount depending on how you structure the deal. There are some exceptions. Some McLarens like the 675 and 765 are limited production. You’ll pay full MSRP for these, but you’ll need to be on a list at your dealer to even get one. For instance, McLaren will make 765 of the 765s of which about 200 will be allotted to the US market. I think all the US 765’s are currently taken. At some point they’ll start showing up used and they will be going for maybe 150% of MSRP. When the 720 first came out in 2017 it was so popular all the production slots were taken up for almost 12 months. People were paying 125% for used models rather than wait. My expectations keep me out of that group. Insurance is something you have to investigate up front. Your age, driving record, and area you live in may make insurance almost impossible to get. Get a VIN and call your agent to see if you can even get it. I have a perfect driving record, am over 60, and I could only find one carrier that would write a policy for me with premiums I thought fair under the condition I’d sign an affidavit removing my son, daughter, and wife from the coverage. Buy from a trusted source I would recommend you buy from a McLaren dealer and as close as possible to your home. There are only about 20 McLaren dealers in the US and it’s great to have one close by. You want to build up a relationship with a dealership if you plan to buy more than one of these cars. It works both ways too so it’s also leverage for anything that goes wrong to have the McLaren dealership dealing with McLaren instead of just you. My dealership set up a meeting for me with a guy who had a 720 with the wheels I was considering. While looking at them he said it was the second 720 he had owned. I asked him why he had 2 already and he said the first one had a fuel line issue and he thought it was bunk for a new car to have that issue so soon. The dealership agreed and they just got him another car and took the first one back. You won’t get that treatment without some loyalty points. When you need service, the dealer will also send a transport to get your car or at least a porter to drive it there for you if you want. Buy enough cars and they might send you home in the latest model to let you consider if you’re going to order one in the future. If you do buy something >3 years old, I’d make sure the seller paid for the warranty inspection prior to you buying it as part of the deal. The dealership again would be in a position to do this at their cost say versus a private seller or non-McLaren lot. Accept that the car will have quirks - just not any that affect its value or your enjoyment Remember, nothing is perfect. But there shouldn’t be any defects in areas that affect the reason the car exists. Most McLaren models exist due to homologation rules for GT racing. The 12c, 570, 650, and 720 all have GT versions McLaren sells to racing teams. Homologation makes them produce certain numbers of these models for sale to the public. So the car is a race car that has been modified to be road legal for the country they sell it in. You won’t usually find issues with the ‘critical to quality’ components on a McLaren. The engine, drive train, and so on are track tested prior to delivery and you’ll see any issues if you drive it and any issues you see will get fixed. If you buy new, you have lemon laws to protect you and McLaren takes this stuff very seriously. That being said, I’d stay away from first model years. McLaren will usually have some issue with a supplier they need to work out. For instance, they have trouble with their windshields delaminating. I went through 3 on my 650 – all covered by warranty. 720 has been good being a 2020 not a 2017. On the other hand, McLarens tend to have issues with electronics and some cosmetic problems. These are the things that while odd for a half a million dollar car, are not going to affect its ability to win a race. Here are a few things I deal with on my car. One of the calipers is not finished with a smooth edge. Warranty. A circle of black gloss paint came off on the inside part of the driver door. Warranty but I won’t touch paint issues. The flange on the passenger wheel well is coming unglued. Covered by warranty but not sure how we’ll fix it as you have to pull it off to replace it and McLaren has been known to put these on before the paint has cured causing paint damage when you pull it off. I’m leaving it for now. The stealth finish on both exhaust pipes is flaking off due to heat. Covered by warranty. I’ll get it done at the 1-year service cycle. The OP listed some videos as evidence of ‘problems’ with McLarens. I watched them and didn’t see anything that wasn’t a result of the buyer not doing due diligence. The cars were bought used and we don’t know if the sales prices reflected issues they had. Certainly, the paint damage from the video of the guy in England was part of the deal and he knew what he was getting into before he signed the deal. McLarens are hand painted cars and have extremely complex processes. It’s the one thing you can’t easily fix on these cars. As a result, you should take this into consideration prior to purchase. I spec’d an MSO custom paint job that cost $11,000+ alone. Here’s what the paint on my 720 looks like. It looks like you’re staring into deep space. There’s no way you’re going to easily fix any issues with this stuff. To wit, I had my 720 entirely covered in Xpel and a ceramic coating on top of that. In summary, I think McLarens are great cars and their performance to price ratio is the best in the industry. There isn’t a car on the road in the same price range that can out perform a 720 at this point in time. The 720 outperforms almost any car at any price in the GT class as well. Watch the videos from DragTimes on YouTube for a good spectrum. He also buys his cars from my dealership.