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audi oem rims Post Review
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Used - 2006 Audi OEM Rims and Michelin Tires for sale $230 https://t.co/x8r9NNKfXp https://t.co/gqJXqu9ClY
Factory Audi S5 A5 19″ OEM Wheels Rims 58828 https://t.co/iXxi5TPJKA https://t.co/vPpRWKOY4b
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audi oem rims Q&A Review
Do I need snow tires for ski season in Seattle? Just bought an Audi A4 with Quattro AWD. Snow tires would be awesome for driving up to the mountains, however it doesn't get that cold here and it hardly ever snows downtown. Are snow tires overkill?
“Only Audi Original (AO) Tires are engineered specifically for your Audi model. To help maintain the outstanding ride and handling characteristics of your Audi, contact or visit your local dealer for questions and to learn more about Audi Original Tires.” most folks swap OE tires on their cars for Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's. (now A/S 4’s are available) But, I got a great deal on 4 lightly used rims with Pirelli Soto Zero Snow tires fitted for a c7 Z06; already had a set of rims fitted with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3’s, and I had the OEM tires on OEM rims, which were essentially street legal track slicks - Michelin Pilot sport cup 2’s. No fun in rain, or even dampness on a city street. But while the snows provide the softest ride, this car is no snowmobile. So, got a second set of rims for my Tundra, swapping out the Bridgestone OEM A/S tires for a set of Factory-studded snow tires designed and manufactured in Finland, so Nokian knows snow. (Studded tires are legal on public roads where I live from October 15 to April 15.) You only have to total one car in the snow to make you a firm believer of having the best tire available for your car when you face that situation. (But 1st choice: don’t go out in the snow!). Maybe tire chains are a tad better in the snow, but when a chain link breaks you get a redesigned-wheel well for free. More important than the type of tire your buy; Taking your car out to a snowed in but empty parking lot and practice how your car handles in the snow with the tires you have. Once you get a feel for your cars’ handling, you will adapt your driving to make it as safe as it can be in the conditions.
How is the mileage of the Volkswagen New Polo Trendline 1.0L MPI engine?
I Didn't get a chance to ride 1ltr polo engine, but have thoroughly enjoyed with my Ameo TDI ,comfortline ,till date & have decided to buy only Volkswagen & it's sister brands like skoda, audi etc…. Believe it or not the ,below pic is my cars average mileage which I hadachieved There was also another pick of 35.1km/ltr but was deleted by me mistakenly😥 Conditions for the above mileage: No passengers AC switched off No additional weight spare wheel was removed to reduce cars gross weight by 20kg atleast. NOT ,CROSSED 1300 RPM at any cost yet maintained a speed of 60km/hr.{ It doesn't matter how fast u go,but what matters is how you go fast It was achieved in 2019 Again in ,2020 I tried repeating the same but couldn't cross beyond 31km/ltr figure 😒 with same efforts over under construction Highways in my area(A.P state) over a 100 km stretch. Reasons ,for NOT being able to achieve the above said shocking 🤭ridiculous mileage figures repeatedly might also be like : #✨wrong thick engine oil of 15W40 of wruth brand grade added by the local service(he initially served a Maruti showroom) guy instead of 5W40 grade as prescribed by the VW group 😪 & I could literally feel the car's roughness while starting & engine becoming smooth only after 40–60 km of driving. ✨ Air filter is becoming dirty at a faster rate due to highway constructions. ✨ Also MAY BE ENGINE INTAKE VALVES, THROTTLE BODY, INJECTORS & cylinders must have accumulated carbon deposits( have to check all these yet). ✨ My cars service is due, which could also be the reason.✨My tyres were brand new which ran only 4–5 thousand kilometres (Michelin) before I got the above mileage & by now i have completed almost 18000km on Michelin which could also be the reason. I have started to forget the 28km/ltr mileage average on my ODO every time since it has become a norm for me, ofcourse without AC & also with above said conditions. With AC on( 1mode which is least, but AC blower was open completely & had changed to 2&3 modes intermittently according to my family requests) & with 4 elderly persons (family) I have achieved a mileage of 24 km/ltr (not 34, which would make the most idiotic 😛answer on this platform 😄) from Visakhapatnam to Rajahmundry high ways albeit under road construction & crossing the vizag city in office hours is no a mean task with TDI engine's, smoothly with their long clutch pedal. But ,what wonders me really is if I could achieve such beautiful figures with 195/55 R 16 tyres( comfortline model comes with R15 tyres. Have purchased 16 inch VW OEM rims), that too with Michelin brand which are a bit heavier compared to other all reputed brands, what would a smooth driver achieve on a thin tyre like stock 14 inch rims which were provided on a VW Trendline model of BS6 1 ltr petrol engines🤔🤔🤔😜😜 or even on TDI trendline models for that matter. Hope your question is answered 🇮🇳. Jai Bharat
The original tires that came on my 2013 Audi Allroad are 255/45 R18s, but the winter tires (on separate rims) that I purchased are 225/55 R 17s. Why aren't the rims and tires the same size?
Your Audi can employ the use of either a 17 inch or 18 inch tire and wheel combo. Perfectly legit and safe. However, and this is a big however, both the tire sizes you have mentioned are not OEM. 245/45R18 100H XL was the OEM tire size for your Allroad. Secondly, if you are running a 17″ tire and wheel package on your Audi you need to employ the use of 235/55R17 99H sized tires if you wish to stay within Audi specs.
What is a drawback of having a nice car?
I have a few high-end cars Range Rover Sport, Audi S4, MB CL600, classic ’64 Mustang. Although “nice car” is a relative term. A Toyota Camry fresh off the car lot can be a nice car. However, I am assuming you mean something more high-end and expensive. The few drawbacks I have are the insurance (off-set with high deductibles and multiple car, and umbrella policies) which can be pricey. The other drawback is the increases fuel expense. Yes, I could put regular and there would be no problem but the manufacturer recommends premium so I put “middle grade” petrol. When it comes to exotic cars you’ll want to put super every time. That can get expensive really fast especially if you have more than one car. However, most people who buy those cars are not too concerned in that area. Your car repair expenses are proportional to the type of vehicle you purchase. The costs for brakes, rotors, tires, filters, and oil changes increase dramatically. An extreme example would be the Bugatti Veyron. Standard service and oil change is around $21,000USD. I used to have a Jaguar XJR, I cracked a rim and it costs $1,200 to replace. Standard OEM. Speeding tickets are not a huge drawback as you can get those in any car. In my experience, more expensive the car the less likely they are to cut you a break. Yet, respect and courtesy go a long way. So watch your attitude, it does not hurt to be nice and saves you a K9 search. I got pulled over in my RR Sport for 70 in a 45. Cop didn’t even say anything beyond “license, registration, and insurance.” Gave me a ticket without further ado. Then again I didn’t care either. I just wanted to get home. All in all, the more expensive the car the higher all related costs associated will be in relation. Yet, the comfort, convenience, added luxury, and performance cannot be overlooked. When I drive a basic stock 4 door sedan you will notice the difference. My first car was Mercury Milan, and I loved it. Great daily driver and extremely dependable. After 9 years I had to give her up, but the difference from the Milan to other cars in my stable is telling. If you just want to get to A to B then buy something affordable and dependable. If you are in a position to get something more than is necessary then go for it. Just remember, financing a high car is not out the realm of possibility but the maintenance will kill you.
Can I use any type of rim for my car as long as they are the correct diameter and will they work for my tire specifications (225/40 R18)?
Question: Can I use any type of rim for my car as long as they are the correct diameter and will they work for my tire specifications (225/40 R18)? An aspect of rim design you can’t ignore is offset, the difference between the centre line of the rim (width wise) and its mounting surface. If you stray too far from the OEM specification you will have problems with clearance from suspension components, body work, accelerated wheel bearing wear, and possibly interference with the brake caliper (less likely). Wheel Offset Calculator | GTSparkplugs Other obvious aspects are the mounting bolt pattern (number and bolt circle diameter). https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=92 You should also be careful to use the correct bolts (or nuts) that fit the taper of the bolt holes (radius or straight taper) Wheel fasteners: Understanding the nuts and bolts of wheel clamping Does it Matter,: ,Yes. I got some after market wheels from Costco for my Audi A3. Supposedly they were OEM specification. However, the offset was too great (to give an aggressive stance) and the tires rubbed on the wheel wells in certain circumstances. I returned them and bought different wheels (non OEM) from Audi that had a reduced offset that gave the necessary clearance.
Will it affect a car performance if we upgrade from an original 16 inch rim to a 17 inch rim? I’m intending to get a Hyundai Elantra.
Sadly The rim size wont have as much an affect on the car as it needs, the elantra, going far back to 2013 until the newest models, all have pretty shoddy suspension. not great for bumps, i mean my 04 Audi with shocks and struts that didn't even work anymore had a better ride. the things just sat there sucking gravel. To get any kind of decent performance upgrade on the elantra you should start with the suspension, put nicer coils shocks and struts on it. get some carbon ceramic break pads ( full set of those is like 30–60$ and well worth the breaking distance ) after the suspension and breaks are up to par, you can worry about other things. i personally just thought the suspension on the car i had was bad or old as it was used, after replacing oem parts onto the car and getting no difference. i started to dread the car a bit. i havnt had a chance yet to upgrade the susp, but brakes and some stuff have been changed. took out the air box and intake for a cheap ebay short air ram (xyz tuning sells for 40$) that put my car on a dyno at 171hp ( up from 148hp in the 1.8L engine) currently my Black 2013 elantra GT hatchback sits on stock rims plasti dipped bronze, with CC break pads, stock suspension, powered by the 1.8L engine with its short air ram, bored out a little bit with exhaust heads, quieter muffler,exhaut silencer and a street cam, the car currently runs 243hp 197 torque. sounds like a rice cooker though.
What addition is the best way to make your car look better?
I have always thought rims would sort of pop the look of your car. Thats just me though. Thats unless your car comes with very nice looking wheels. I mean, don’t replace the OEM wheels of your Audi R8 for a set of Cragar wheels.
What is the shape of submarine propellers? Why is it such a highly guarded secret?
Yeah yeah, but of course it is all mighty classified. On the other hand, trivially understood by many a PC hobbyist who spends way too much time on optimizing optional ventilators in their rig. Hack #1. A propeller is a simple device for pumping fluid or gas. You can achieve the same amount of flow/resulting trust by rotating the propeller faster or making it larger. Second is largely the more desirable option, likely being quieter and less prone to cavitation in case of a liquid. Incidentally, a propeller on a ship is called a screw. However, we’ll be emphasizing commonality over differences here. Hence Hack #2. At some point, you reach practical limits on circumference of your screw. Any more, and its starts bumping into things when in port. Next thing you can do is to make blade’s area larger and give them crooked shape to approximate constant linear velocity of working fluid across them at cruising speed. This is based on the observation that for the same rotational speed in rpm measured at the shaft (this speed is known as constant angular velocity, or CAV) the straight conventional blade moves the fastest at the outermost points in the local frame and so does the fluid taken there. This is known as the CLV, or constant linear velocity. Ideally constant, as in you want to minimize accelerating the flow towards your propeller’s outer rim as much as possible. This kind of thinking is already prevalent in building aircraft turbines. Take a look at a picture of a recent aircraft turboprop, of which the frontmost assembly of fan and its cowling is known as ducted fan. It is of a “high bypass” variety for efficiency reasons, meaning unusually high proportion of the airflow is really cold ambient air taken in front and forcefully thrown out over and around the turbine’s hot exhaust plume. The turbine is also rotating the propeller’s shaft. At the moment, only civilian airlines use turboprops for reasons of efficiency. Military planes typically do not and are pure turbines, riding that exhaust plume. Too bad for them, as it is also a great way to lower the temperature of the exhaust making you more stealth to IR seeker. For this or that reason, expect fully variable bypass turbines to debut in military jets soon. Knowing what we know now, we can also expect the helicopter blades to get crooked and/or acquire ducts, which give the propeller flow directivity. The bane of fast helicopters is the tips of the rotor blades going supercritical (here, supersonic CLV) This limit has already been reached, as witnessed by “never exceed” velocity specced for the fastest conventional choppers like the Apache. Where is duct on submarine screws? Coming up, I am pretty sure. However, we can skip to the next stage of Hack #3. It generally desirable to move the propeller inside your ships body, leaving only a small orifice to throw the water out. These guys use them for safety reasons, to avoid cuts by propeller bits In submarines, the primary advantage would be an ability to have a very high throughput propeller rotating very slowly and quietly inside and that have the your flow accelerate rapidly at the very last moment as it exits your ship. It is a lot more difficult to break a simple hole in the wall by cavitation artifacts. In rocketry, a mere orifice providing a rapid constriction to the flow actually has a fanciful name of its own, ,de Laval nozzle - Wikipedia The likely shape for you new improved propeller is what they call a radial setup, running along the entire length of your submarine. Think a churro I think there is some British submarine that already uses a water-jet propulsion system, but further application is likely hampered by how bulky and noisy the transmission bits picking up the power of a nuke need to be, possibly negating the packaging and stealth benefits of a water jet. Conventional setup is obviously keeping the reactors and propeller as close to each other as possible, connected by a very short shaft. Next, lets look at a related application, namely in nuclear icebreakers Russia fields. They have very similar or same reactors as nuclear subs. See how there is not really any more space left to put additional propellers and shafts? In essence, those things are tractors of their people or humongous tugboats. They are not really going anywhere fast, but need to develop relentless trust or pull. The tractors are having a traction problem (pun intended :) Think wheelspin due to inability to translate that much torque to the road surface. Hence, there is no way around converting all the steam into electricity first. A think electrical cable that is the electrical transmission takes nearly no space. Than, for example, you could have great many propeller/electrical motor assemblies all over the place. Those can be individually rotated/directed, largely replacing conventional rudders. A self contained electrical drive/propeller assembly like that is known as Azimuth thruster - Wikipedia And they are sufficiently common for there already being Chinese knockoffs sold on Ali Baba, See the duct and how compact the drive size relatively to propeller is? So, it is not really a knock-off, but is actually more advanced then most, as far as those things go. Back to Russia, there is already this interesting device. A smaller icebreaker and tug intended for deicing ports that can break ice when going sideways. This sort of activity practically requires azimuth thrusters, What does it have to do with the submarines? The advent of electrical ship transmission systems is going to be a great enabler for more powerful and quieter screws tucked inside a water jet setup. Hack N OK, I lied to you. The churro thing technically has a name, Archimedes' screw - Wikipedia and has been used for pumping stuff since antiquity. For the utmost in efficiency, there is variation utilizing several interlocked churros with a very complicated helical lobe geometry Rotary-screw compressor - Wikipedia This is currently used in very advanced HVAC equipment in the case of fluids, AFAIK. The only somewhat pedestrian device of relation is the original ,Torsen - Wikipedia, differential used in the Audi Quattro, much praised for its “analog computer” like properties. Today’s Quattro’s use a simpler setup, as Audi obviously couldn’t manufacture those with enough precision. You can get one from an shop in India having less than 10 employees Screw Compressor This is a trend that you may hear here first. Indians are progressive eking out a niche for products sitting above the Chinese that may require long time to make, are a nuisance to ship affordably and have a rather small series, but a relatively large margin. The knee-jerk Chinese instinct is to go after something they can use their prisoner child labor to make a few millions of and ship to you using dodgy free airmail declared as gift worth $5, which is quite often not too far off the mark :) Did I mention that the expensive “British” Parker pens have been made by an Indian OEM since forever? That reminds me of this Russia should 'go away and shut up', says UK defence secretary Oops, it seems somebody did a great disservice to the Empire here. I happen to know that there is a single expert on how to design those screws in all of UK, who is a professor at Imperial College London and a Serb. He is not talking, because he signed an NDA and licensed all his patents on the subject to an American startup, which is working on something as remote from ship’s propulsion as you possible can. Suffice it to say that they are based in Nevada :) The actual source of his wisdom happens to be a 60ties Soviet textbook on exciting subject of cooling technologies. I think it is time for Mother Russia to dust that stuff off and start ruling some seas. It is scandalous that those British have-beens have the better submarine propulsion bits at the moment. Temporarily. Hunt for the Red October, anyone? Don’t you wish it were a one-off hack. UPDATE: Turns out, I am not up to date. ,Pump-jet - Wikipedia, is meanwhile used on Russia’s new Borei class as well as British Trafalgar and Astute class, US’ Seawolf and Virginia and French Triomphant and Barracuda, so the large external screws, however classified, are on their way out based on observational evidence alone.
Are eBay OEM aluminum wheel and rim dealers okay quality? I just need something that works. I cracked the original wheel on a speed bump so I don’t think they were fantastic to begin with.
Speed bumps are a joke the council should be liable for the damage they cause my daughters Audi tt has a cracked front grill surround and 2 broken front anti roll bar links due to these stupid speed bumps because with low riding cars like tt's the bumps cause damage unless travelling at walking speed
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