bmw error codes
bmw error codes Related Articles
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bmw error codes Post Review
Watching @WatchJRGo1198 fixing all of the typical BMW error codes and a BMW ad appears. Is JR like the warnings at the end of a medicine ad on TV? https://t.co/udtT5D5wEB
FOXWELL NT530 for BMW Multi-System OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner Read Erase Error Codes https://t.co/DFIJ8g4m1N https://t.co/QuOSRgwjuw
This 148,000 miles old BMW 520d performance & economy dropped, we found DPF error codes too. A Which? Trusted Traders approved Engine Carbon Clean has it running like it should #whichtrustedtraders #followthecog #BMW #520d #Berkshire #Hampshire #Wiltshour #Newbury #carbonclean https://t.co/ibEwZGseTk
@BMW_UK Any idea whats going on here? Been looked at twice, no error codes coming up, brake pads, discs, sensors all changed and its still happening all the time?! https://t.co/B3EdZpKRSw
Any other BMW MINI drivers had this Drivetrain error/fault? And if so what was the fix? No error codes are reported or saved in the ECU. It appears randomly, quite often and usually clears after a minute or two. Doesn’t seem to drive any differently. https://t.co/I4LJ0Y1mlA
A few weeks ago I went to a cheap "BMW specialist". While he didn't use a real BMW tool to read the car error codes, he used something called a "WOW Snooper+". While it was slow, it worked pretty well (except for BMW specific codes). Figured I needed one, just "because". 🤪🤪 https://t.co/NGBDEbdDfM
What the actual F~*k BMW? To get to the hidden error codes you have to do math to unlock the bitch! Fucking German cars can lick it! https://t.co/f5iqj65jWz
BMW: Airbag reset with BM Technic cable - error codes? : BMW 5 series Forum http://t.co/gRcR8IV4
VBoyZ MC Shop now has additional services for BMW motorcycles. Diagnose / Retrieve Error Codes - 1,000 Reset/Clear Service Reminder - 2,000 Clear Error Codes - 2,000
My Motiv BMW. ERROR CODES: HAS ANYONE COME ACROSS FAUILT CODE EEP-2 ON A BMW Z3 AT THE SAME TIME FUEL GAUGE AND ... http://bit.ly/ffNPro
bmw error codes Q&A Review
My Car (2009 BMW 328i) has a rough idle + service light. How can I troubleshoot the cause?
If the check engine light is on you can use an obd ll code reader. In the states many autopart stores will do this for free. This will give you a error code and a short description. I normally just google the error code along with my cars make and model. Chances are, especially with a bmw, you will find someone who has dealt with the same problem. If you have a used car it's not a bad idea to buy your own code reader. They're about 80 USD.
Is a 2007 Porsche Boxster a good car? Does it have any major problems?
Mine was a 2006 but the same generation (987). Absolutely the best car I’ve owned which includes BMW, Mercedes, and Land Rovers. The Porsche was the most reliable, required the least maintenance, and the cost, while expensive for parts was less over all. I owned it 9 years up to ~73,000 miles. In that time I replaced the brakes once, spark-plugs twice, the battery twice, and finally the water pump and hoses before I sold it. That was it. By contrast my Mercedes and BMW were costing $~2000+ a year in normal maintenance along with weird parts failing. A limp accelerator pedal on the Mercedes (“throttle bushing”). TWO thermostats on the BMW, then a radiator failure at only 7 years old. My Range Rover is 4 years old and already getting error codes for mechanical issues. Not expecting it to last that long. The Porsche is also way more fun to drive. Everything is a Porsche is engineered for driving experience. The extra gadgets and assists are not present, so it is completely about driver/car connection. And sitting so low in the car makes you feel like you’re in a cockpit. Brilliant.
Are BMW cars actually unreliable? How much does it cost to maintain a BMW after 4–5 years?
I bought a 5 year old 3 series 2 years ago We replaced the brake disks and pads. Expensive! Then the car ran flawlessly for the time I had it, except one little problem: Everytime I hit a bigger pump in the street the connector for the “head rest movement in case of an accident” below the passenger seat lost connection and caused an error code. So ... how many cars have this feature to even go wrong? Which once in a while made me stop by at my buddies to hook the computer to it and delete the code. Happend I think three time in total. That thing (3l diesel) had an exceptional fuel consumption, drove like a razor blade and the only reason I sold it, was because I decided money is better spend getting back into real “racing” instead of constantly finding myself running down the Autobahn at 155 mph (and got myself a little van, a small Hyundai and turbo V8 powered pulling tractor) Before that I had several 3 series BMWs who did well over 250.000km and 15 years of age. Only wear parts and one fuel pump relais.
Is it normal in BMW e90 that the RPM Jumps after cold start up?
It is not normal but don’t worry if there are no error codes stored. Most likely computer calculates something with “unplanned jerk” OR there is a electric load switching on too suddenly (alternator on BMWs is disabled during first few seconds to make startup more smooth).
I replaced cam sensor after receiving cam sensor error code with SES light on and the SES light did not go off… What can I do next?
Something else is triggering that error code. In the Mercedes the timing gears wear out prematurely and trigger a light. You have to pull the whole front of the engine apart and put new gears, chains tensioners etc, $7000 it’s fixed. It could be solenoids on a BMW !
Why do car companies design cars with parts that are so hard to access (e.g. bolts, etc.)?
Back in the golden era of automobiles, cars were sold with the assumption that most people would be doing their own repairs, and designed with a (mostly) logical layout in the engine compartment so everything was easy to reach, adjust, remove, and replace. Today, service is a profit center - for franchise dealerships, the big money isn't in sales, it’s in service. The layout of the engine compartment is designed using CAD software to maximize space, require special tools, more computer-controlled functionality instead of mechanical, and generally make access to components more challenging - which encourages (and sometimes forces) more people to go to the dealer for service and buy parts directly from the manufacturer. On many vehicles, even just replacing a factory part with an aftermarket one leads to problems. A couple years ago I was seeing an O2 sensor code in a new Jeep, so I changed it out with a brand new Bosch sensor - keep in mind that Bosch practically ,invented ,the O2 sensor, and set the standard everyone else follows. Their quality is top notch. Yet, within a day after the swap, I started seeing other error codes that had nothing to do with the sensor. Thinking maybe I had a bad one, or it was for the wrong vehicle, I replaced it again and still had weird unrelated error codes. So I have a friend pull his factory sensor, tried it in mine, and immediately the random error codes stopped. The vehicle needed a factory part to work properly. Of course, the sensor from the manufacturer was $85 vs $22 for the Bosch. I’ve seen this happen before with other vehicles and parts too … try changing the battery out in a C6 Corvette (2005 or newer) with anything but a Delco battery, and you’ll get charging system warnings on the screen, even when the specs are identical. And if you have a BMW or Mercedes, anyone will tell you that if you ignore the service interval light, guess what, ,something ,will need to be serviced shortly thereafter. Follow the money trail. If something doesn't make sense to you, it probably makes perfect sense to them. It keeps their hands in your pockets.
What's the best way to get rid of error message in BMW?
“Error message”? Are you referring to an OBD code or to a notification in the car’s DI display? In either case, an OBD scan tool would be indicated. After, whatever caused the message has been repaired.
What is the best BMW scanner for the Z4 E89 which allows you to check for errors and do coding to unlock certain features (e.g., opening the roof whilst driving)?
when I had my E85 and my later E89 I bought the iCarly for BMW software and the WIFI ODB-2 reader. It allowed me to override a number of settings and it worked well.
If you have low compression in the car engine (particular BMW M54 engine), does the check engine light pops up or at least some error codes that you could read with a scanner?
Depends on Why it has low,compression. The diagnostic system can only detect what we have sensors for. Unless it has a pressure sensor in the cylinders, you wont have a code for it. Say you have a cracked head, the system cant recognise that, but it can recognise that the oil is gone because its seeping out the crack. That being said low,compression is just a symptom of another issue. Most,common,causes of,low compression is cracked heads, cracked cylinders, a blown head gasket, bend or damaged valves, missing spark plugs, and such. Only a compression test will tell you if you have low,compression, and where to start.
Is an E93 M3 a bad first car for a teenager?
It all depends what his driving skill level is at. How many BMW Performance Driving classes has he attended? Does he have a racing license? How many hours on the track does he have? Can he diagnose and repair common BMW Error codes? If your answer to most of those questions is a no, or none, then $15k for a first car is a lot already. The E93 M3 is a great car, even for a first car… but it is for driving enthusiasts, not for casual drivers that think they can drive fast. Maintenance on any M3 costs a lot more than a standard BMW, even compared to the 330i or 335i The only M3 with low low-end torque is the E30 M3, where you’d need to get to about 4000rpm to get decent torque. All M3s after that have loads of low-end torque. The lack of wheel spin has nothing to do with lack of torque and more to do with the electronic aids that prevent it during launch. That’s another thing. There are a bunch of novice drivers out there that feel like all these new electronic systems somehow magically defy the laws of physics. They don’t. Period. Your brakes won’t stop ‘on a dime’ if you don’t react in time. Your DSC and XDrive cannot do a 90 degree turn at 60mph. Braking distance for the M3 from 60–0 is about 100ft, in controlled tests. add about 50ft of ‘reaction time’ to that and the BEST drivers in an M3 will stop in about 150ft. Average drivers add another 40ft. That means that in an emergency, an average driver will still plow through another car, pedestrian or wall even in an M3 with performance brakes. But I’m never one to deny someone else the pleasure of driving/owning a BMW… get him a used MANUAL 320i or 325i for about $5k. ,Fly him to Spartanburg, SC or Thermal, CA for BMW Driving school. ,Then let him save the rest for the M3 he can buy AFTER he attends the M and Advanced M classes.
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