bmw fcp euro
bmw fcp euro Related Articles
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bmw fcp euro Post Review
typical bmw fan’s fcp euro cart https://t.co/yanveEk0mq
@daniellemerrim1 @graywolf442 @GimpDave @SurvivorKitty @jat19672 I have no issues getting BMW parts. Just received a new blower motor overnight from FCP Euro. https://t.co/960iNeRS0U
Celebrating #TurboTuesday thanks to the folks over at FCP Euro and their killer new B58 Powered BMW Drift Taxi build. Containing the heat coming off that turbo thanks to some Reflect-a-Gold. #DesignEngineeringInc #DEI #FCPEuro #ReflectAGold https://t.co/HIF9KdMQbu
@SavageRaccoon @CARandDRIVER @BMW Not that bad if you do your own wrenching. Plus lifetime warranty parts with FCP Euro: https://t.co/oi2XwzQNrR
#REDBLOCKSOCIETY fcpeuro • • • • • • FCP Euro You can only choose one... Where would you spend your #SundayFunday? ➖➖➖➖➖➖➖➖ #fcpeuro #carparts #parts #carlifestyle #instacar #audi #audisport #bmw #porsche #volvo… https://t.co/73d6zyMXqm
@cheromcha These diagrams are direct from the BMW ETK catalog but I am sure that FCP Euro has the same ones.
@TX_VisionShock Ahh now I know why you mentioned you had problems with your BMW. I have an N54 I know the pain. FCP Euro is life 😂
@EVanderVliet2 Stay on top of the cooling system in that bmw. Fcp euro is about to make a new friend.
@Korozjin I'd highly recommend a 1.2 bar cap from FCP Euro. Even BMW has seen the light and realized that running the cooling system at 2 bar was a dumb idea and doesn't do it anymore.
I liked a @YouTube video https://t.co/wuY9xVugqI BMW Brake Upgrade (E46 Front Pads, Calipers and Rotors) FCP Euro
bmw fcp euro Q&A Review
Which car should I buy with a $22k budget, a used BMW 3 series or a used Camaro?
I would say the BMW 3 series, assuming you have a stable job and some money in the bank ($3k at MINIMUM). I got myself a used 2013 335i for around $24k and I absolutely love it. I’ve driven plenty of cars from Camaro’s to Mustangs, but the BMW gives you that feeling of luxury and sport all in one package. The feeling of drivin one at high speeds is the best part, you look down at your spedometer and you are going 140MPH on an empty highway and yet everything from the steering to suspension still feels as stable as it was at 80MPH. These cars were built for the autobahn so doing those speeds is no problem at all for it. I’d say the only cons are higher than average costs for maintenance and repairs, but that can be mitigated by learning to do things yourself (Oil changes, brakes, sparkplugs, etc etc) and finding yourself a trusted mechanic (never go to dealers, buy your parts from third party sites that offer genuine BMW parts, FCP Euro, Rock Auto etc and let a independent mechanic fix it up for you).
What is this part called and where can I order one online for a 2002 BMW 530i?
Best I can tell is that it’s the intake manifold Part number 13711436861. I can’t tell what your specific 5 Series model is (US/Euro, MT/AT, sedan/wagon, and exact production date) but you can double check it here: ,Online BMW Parts Catalog Ordering is easy, and depends if you want a replacement part or the original. FCP Euro is one place. The dealer would always have one, and sometimes getting the original part isn’t much more.
For the BMW with over 50,000 miles or outside the warranty, how do you approach the maintenance? Do you continue as recommended by BMW? Do you have your oil changes only at the dealership?
“,For the BMW with over 50,000 miles or outside the warranty, how do you approach the maintenance? Do you continue as recommended by BMW? Do you have your oil changes only at the dealership?” So I’ll tackle this as asked. For the BMW with over 50,000 miles or outside the warranty, how do you approach the maintenance? Carefully and fully. Do you continue as recommended by BMW? Yes, and I add monthly checks of fluid and air levels just to be more proactive about catching any issues. I use ,Fuelly, to keep track of my maintenance, but there are a bunch of ways to do this. Do you have your oil changes only at the dealership? Once the warranty was up I don’t darken the door of the dealership beyond the occasional trip to the parts department. Even then I usually find what I need using a combination of finding part numbers at ,RealOEM, and then googling the part number. This brings up the usual suspects in BMW online part world. Turner Motorsports ECS Tuning FCP Euro EEuropean Pelican BMW of South Atlanta For my oil changes I usually switch over to LiquiMoly. Turner sells kits for each car that come with OEM BMW filter, oil, ,everything you need to do it in about 20 minutes,. I change every 5,000 miles. It’s cheap insurance.
What should I know before buying a used BMW X5?
Don’t buy a V8. But an e53 with M54 straight six. They engine itself is very reliable but can a annoying when trying to track down a lean burn. If it blows a bunch of white smoke out the back don’t freak out it is most likely just the PCV system. Replace all, quality kits available at fcp euro. The e53 had a facelift in 2004, so buy a 2004–2006 3.0. Expect to have a few things fixed if they haven’t kept up with repairs and then smooth sailing. I did buy one for my son and a couple times I wanted to light it on fire but now it’s awesome.
Who works on BMW, besides the dealership?
A2A, thanks. Ask a fanatic. Fanatics are obsessed about a certain thing. It could be what type of roses grow at 5000ft above sea level or what shoes to wear while trekking the Sahara. The way to do that is finding out where they buy aftermarket parts and/or message boards/media where they congregate; ask this question. "I'm new to ______. I own a 2001 540i, (insert model here) and have a question. Could someone please point me in the direction of a BMW repair shop owned by an enthusiast. Someone who knows their stuff and cares about the brand." Go on the board/blog of FCP Euro, (aftermarket supplier) look for BMW contributors and ask them this question. Fanatics love to share knowledge with other enthusiasts--they enjoy teaching. Go to ,BMW Car Club of America,. Search the chapter finder portion. They will have a contact person in every major city in the US. Call them, they know where to go. The voice of an amateur enthusiast in your area.
What is your favorite place to buy BMW parts from?
FCP Euro first because they have great prices and everything has a lifetime warranty. Even oil. Yes, you can do an oil change and send back the used oil for a full refund (if you purchase new oil from them). Filter as well. I have not used the oil warranty myself but I know others who have. I have used it to send back absolutely trashed brake rotors from tracking my car. As another said, ECS Tuning. They have good photos of almost every part you could want and good service.
What's a better choice between Audi, BMW and Mercedes? I currently drive a 2002 BMW 3 Series and am looking to upgrade. My budget is around $30k.
The 335is hardtop convertable is by far your best option for the budget. The N54 engien can make over 500 hp and be a daily driver. 0 to 60 is under 4 secounds and you can install a LSD. So check it out repairs via FCP Euro will keep the maintenance cost way down with lifetime replacements.
Why should you not buy a used BMW?
Buying a used BMW is not always bad. However there are some common issues. BMW tends to experiment a lot with new stuff. While they do tend to over engineer their cars to compensate for things they’re not experienced with, it does end up causing issues. Take the N54 engine for example. The engine itself is designed so well that it can handle double the factory power. The same goes for the injectors, high pressure fuel pump, twin turbos (actually one turbo is enough for the stock amount of power), and so on. Since they didn’t have experience to tell them how strong to build the engine, they went with the “this way the engine will definitely not fail” approach. But because this was their first turbo engine in recent times, they had issues with reliability around the engine. One of those issues being heat, the heat from the turbos ended up damaging components around them. They’ve since learned form this experience, and moved things around (and also added a bunch of heat shields) to prevent this from happening. The turbo wastegates, HP fuel pumps and injectors also had issues in the long run, and it took numerous redesigns to make them reliable. So as they say. The engine is bullet proof, but the things around the engine end up breaking. BMWs are performance cars. If you treat a BMW right it’s a great car (although it’s not as reliable as a Camry). The problem is, people think they can buy a BMW, drive it like the performance car that it is, and then never even open the bonnet between stretched (even further than the already too long manufacturer intervals) service intervals. The result? You end up buying a performance car that was driven hard, but not maintained properly. And then you end up with a bottomless moneypit. Due to their tendency to stuff their cars full of technology, they’re a pain to work on. You can get used to this, but a BMW will always be labour intensive. Take the M52TU engine for example. How many 90’s engines have variable cam timing (on both cams) and variable intake geometry (something lots of cars even today don’t have)? All those things add complexity. Complexity means more that can go wrong (and if you know Murphy’s law then that’s a problem), and it also means more things that you need to remove in order to get to the part that you need to replace. And that means a more expensive repair bill as the job takes longer. BMWs are also notoriously finicky. You can’t buy a BMW and then expect to get away with aftermarket electronic parts. Most of the time they either don’t work right (from the box), or they simply don’t work at all. So if you buy a BMW you HAVE to be willing to buy OEM parts. And if you can’t get the OEM part somewhere else (if you’re in the US, I’ve noticed FCP Euro is highly regarded), that means paying the stealership tax. All these things being said, I LOVE old BMWs. I had a 1982 E12/8 518i (the E12/8 was a South African thing, we initially didn’t get the E28 so BMW South Africa took the old E12 and put the newer E28 interior and suspension in it), and it was a great car until it got stolen. Bought it January 2016, and it was stolen October 2016. I now have a ’99 2.8 Z3 roadster (with the M52TU I mentioned above). While the M52TU does have issues with the VANOS and DISA (the two features I mentioned) wearing out prematurely, it’s a great car.
Is the new BMW 5 series worth the money? I have been wanting a BMW for a really long time and the 5 series is perfect for me but my dad says, it really isnt worth it and there are much better cars out there for that price.
I have a 550i. New, it cost 4–4.5x the cost of the equivalent V8 GM. When I bought it, it sold at a discount. That tells you the world has voted on it being overpriced new, longevity and running costs Any luxury car that depreciated from 4x to 0.7x a non luxury comp is not worth it. That’s the market saying either the value is in second hand, OR there is no value in them at all (For all the people that lease, no you’re not smart and you don’t avoid depreciation; you’re not “avoiding buying a depreciating asset.” You’re buying it new, borrowing that money and getting the leasing company to sell it for you at the auction price at a fixed date.) Having owned one, I love it. It’s a spectacular car with known potential problems that can be worked around by the after market. Service and minor repairs are reasonably affordable if you have the skills for it. On an E generation I can do almost anything for a tenth of dealer price. It’s going to be much harder on a G. For example, my car has a shorty plastic pipe that crumbles and vomits up coolant. Guaranteed failure. But the permanent repair is $4 and about an hour. Technically very simple, just a bit time consuming. No reason the car should trade $50k cheap over it, but it does. If it just depreciated like a GM (itself with a bad rep) a $15k car would be $65k. Mostly over known problems that would be $5k to recondition once only and can be done by a DIY. I’d encourage you to buy an F generation one. See how you like it. Use FCP Euro for the parts. If it’s an unreliable wreck, better to know when you’re only out $15k. If you buy it, do double the oil changes it says. Change the steering fluid, coolant and transmission fluid. While you’re down there, change the diff fluid. They’re not magic “lifetime” fluids.
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