3 bmw r1150rt
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3 bmw r1150rt Post Review
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3 bmw r1150rt Q&A Review
Can I start on a 1000cc motorcycle?
I’s possible, but it depends on your own confidence, temperament, and physical attributes. Remember, riding a motorcycle is a risk management exercise. There’s always risk, but if you can minimize that risk in multiple areas, you can ride safely. Conversely, if you stack risk like being small, nervous, riding in poor conditions, starting on a bike that’s too large, it will add up and increase your chances of injury or worse. Trained and licensed is first. I took an MSF course at a local HD dealer 3 years ago and they tried to sell me some very large bikes. I’m a 6’ guy and could probably handle one, but likely wouldn’t be comfortable sitting on an expensive, heavy, and powerful bike attached to a payment plan. I waited until after I got my license and then hit every dealer in the area, sat on every bike I was remotely interested in and rode anything they’d let me ride (pretty much only BMW let me ride their bikes). I ended up with a 798cc BMW F800GS (adventure bike). I needed a bike that would comfortably do a 60 mile daily commute but was still light. That was about as small as I’d go for that purpose and it’s been golden. My bike is equipped with engine guards, hand guards and I dropped it coming out of a creek early on, but never on the street. After my semi-nervous 30 mile ride home from the dealer, I started with small circuits near home with an ever increasing duration. I was careful ramping up my distance and exposure to back highways, city streets, small highways, and finally interstates. Twenty thousand miles later in three years, still love that first bike. I did pick up an 1,100cc sport tourer (R1150RT) last year and put 9k on it riding between the Midwest, D.C. and Key West. The larger bike handles the interstates and big-mile days easier, but I’m still glad I started with something smaller. I kept them both and still ride them both most weeks.
What’s a good beginner motorcycle for someone that’s 5 ft. 9?
5′9″ isn’t “end of the world small” - you’ve probably got a 29″ or 30″ inseam, which means most things will fit. What I’d be looking at is weight. I put over 200k miles on a ’76 BMW R90/6, which was about 470 pounds wet. When it died, I replaced it with a ’04 BMW R1150RT, which was over 200 pounds heavier. On the road, underway, it felt better - more solid, more stable. In the parking lot, at the light, or god help you, on loose gravel on top of the pavement… not so much. I’m a big guy - 6′3″, 250+. It was a handful. You’re… smaller. If I were you, I’d be thinking a lot about weight. Advising a friend of mine who’s smaller than you about bikes, after she scared herself pretty bad dropping a Triumph, two immediately come to mind. The first is older, harder to find, but a super classic, and you’d immediately become part of a very large and awesome family of riders: The ,BMW R65 LS Weighs 455 lbs with a full tank, alloy wheels, optional luggage. Low seat. Super nice bike, if a bit dated - they were made from ’82 to ‘84, only 6400 made. You can get the regular R65, if you can’t find an LS, but it’s heavier, slightly higher seat. It’s a great bike. Or. If you’re thinking more modern… The ,Honda GROM,. Advertised as “your naked street bike” and “reduced size, increased fun”. They’re a kick. Tiny, but a kick. Don’t let the 125cc engine fool you - they get around. Locally, a lot of folks are hacking Rotaxes into them, which is borderline insane. Price is about the same for either - $3500-ish. One is new, one is, well, not. The “not” bike will be at least the same price for the indefinite future (it’s been about that since the ‘90s); the new bike…. not so much.
What is the best sport touring motorcycle?
Multiple options, obviously, depending on: Price Performance Comfort (for rider and passenger) Reliability Ease and cost of maintenance Prestige / looks (I don't really care about this, but it can be a factor for some people) One has to keep in mind that most motorcycles are toys and that most people indeed use them as such. They only ride in weekends, when the weather is good, for only a couple of hours,... Entirely different from riding all year round, with trips ranging from going to the grocery store to travelling 5000 miles through the countryside. It's a challenge to find a motorcycle that can deal with many miles, riding in all weather conditions, etc. Most importantly, and you'll have heard this many times probably, test riding a bike is absolutely crucial. Nearly all of the bikes I will list are good to great bikes; none of them are that bad that they are objectively not worth considering; a lot will come down to personal preference. Honda Deauville This is probably the most underrated motorcycle ever. It does lack one thing, namely power, but apart from this, it's a great motorcycle. Do you really need the power, or are you looking for a bike that simply gets the job done and reliably gets you from A to B? If so, the Deauville can be your bike. They can be very, very cheap 2nd hand (at least the 650cc version) and even new, they aren't terribly expensive. + price + reliability + ease of maintenance + comfort - performance - prestige Honda ST1100 The old Honda Pan European is often loved more than the new ST1300, for various reasons. An overview can be seen here: For most people, this is a great bike. It's very comfortable, the engine is absolutely fabulous: you can keep it very, very low in the revs (close to stalling) and it will still run smoothly (not saying that this is good practice per se, but it shows just how good the engine is). It's also very reliable, with mileages up to 200,000 miles being reported (if well maintained, obviously). It isn't very powerful compared to modern sport-tourers like the FJR, GTR, and BMW KxxxxGTs, but it will under most circumstances deliver sufficient power. It does lack something like an electric windshield (an absolute must, if you ask me), but apart from that, it's just like a modern tourer. Compared to modern sport-tourers, it doesn't look as great and it is not as 'flickable' in the corners, and it doesn't have as much power, but it does do its job and for most people will deliver enough power. If you're buying 2nd hand, watch out for corrosion near the swingarm and exhaust. + reliability (seriously, if you maintain these well, they'll last for a very long time) + price (a decent 2nd hand one can be very cheap) + comfort (though no electric windscreen and no standard heated grips) + ease of maintenance +- performance (not slow, but not as fast as modern sport-tourers and doesn't handle as well) - prestige (well, it does look quite old now) BMW R1100RT/R1150RT/R1200RT R1100RT, ,R1150RT R1200RT I have put all the RT models together, since, in my opinion, there's been a gradual progression of what are in essence very similar bikes. The engine is a bit more powerful in the 1200 than in the 1100, the electronics are better, it looks a bit more modern,... but fundamentally, they're all similar bikes. The RTs have always been a bit underpowered compared to their contemporaries; it's more of a tourer than a sports-tourer, in my opinion. However, it handles very neutrally and is easy to control at low speeds. It's also supremely comfortable, in terms of seating position, electronics (heated grips, electric windshield, often heated seat), I sometimes think of these bikes are BMW's version of the Honda Deauville, although some may find this offensive (in whatever direction), with two key differences: the BMWs are supremely equipped, but are also very expensive. I think these bikes are overpriced. 2nd hand R1150RTs have a price tag similar to that of an FJR1300 in a comparable condition. You're paying a lot for the prestige of these bikes. They're really nice bikes; but if you look at the price tag, there are other bikes out there that give you much more bang for the buck. Oh yes, and the unconventional indicators (up until the 2010 RT) are a pain if you're used to the convential (basically all other brands) system. + prestige + comfort +- reliability: some of the BMW are known for corrosion and other defects, in general reliable though - performance - budget: overpriced, in my opinion; expensive maintenance if done with dealer - unconventional indicators Honda ST 1300 I'll be honest with you; I think this bike is the least attractive of the modern sports tourers that are in this list. It's not a terrible bike in itself, but if you compare it to the others in the same class (FJR, GTR, K), then it's simply outclassed by the others. It's not weak, but it lacks power compared to the others; there can be stability problems ("the weave"), and slow-speed handling isn't as good as on the ST1100. Again, see the same video I posted earlier: It's hard to list +s and -s, because it is simply outclassed by the other bikes in the same category. Performance: not bad, but all of the others are better. Comfort: not bad, but especially the K is better. Reliability is worse than on the ST1100. What I mean is; no matter what you might like about this bike, there's always an, usually cheaper, competitor that does it better. + comfort +- prestige +- reliability - performance - budget Yamaha FJR 1300 I think this bike is, price-quality wise, my favourite. It's very fast and stable at high speeds, very agile (handles like a sports bike), comfortable (upright seating position, electric windshield,...), and isn't too expensive 2nd hand, and is even new competitively priced. It's hard to fault this bike. Perhaps the only bad thing I can say is that it's not as reliable as the Honda ST1100 (such high mileages seem to be much rarer), and not as powerful as the GTR 1400 and KxxxxGT(L) (but do you really need more?). The older versions did have some heating problems though, and its ground clearance wasn't great. Some of these also had a 'ticker' problem (google it if you want to buy this bike), but this is quite rare. + performance + budget (2nd hand very affordable) +- comfort (is comfortable, just not as a K) ,Kawasaki GTR 1400 I don't know the bike very well; I have heard and read about it a lot, but I've never ridden it, so all of this will be based on 2nd hand experiences. It is very, very powerful. That's something I always hear. It's a Kawasaki: it's sporty and fast. Its seating position is more sporty than on most of its competitors: whether this is a good thing or a bad thing is up to your preference. It is quite heavy and its steering response isn't always as great as one might expect. It is also a very complete bike, with ABS, traction control, and tyre pressure measurement on the dashboard, all as standard. + performance + budget (quite complete for its price) +- comfort (good protection, but slightly more leaned over seating position) BMW K1300GT/K1600GT/K1600GTL K1300GT K1600GT K1600GTL If budget is of no concern whatsoever, I have only one piece of advice: get the BMW K1600GT(L). It's in its own league; no other bike comes even close to it. It's extremely powerful, supremely comfortable, handles very well, has good luggage capacity, and conceals its weight well. The only downsides are its clonky gearbox and of course, its price tag. If you like the KxxxxGTs, but the K1600GT is too expensive, a (2nd hand) K1300GT can be an option. It's still very powerful and is very similar to the K1600GT. In fact, if you're going between a more recent FJR, the GTR and the K1300GT, I really think the latter is, objectively speaking, the best motorcycle (given that all bikes are in good condition). + performance + prestige + comfort + reliability +- cost of maintance (again, official dealerships are expensive) - budget (though K1300GT 2nd hand can be affordable)
Why is my BMW R1150RT never consistent on oil level when I check?
If you want to have consistent oil level readings, you should treat yourself to have a fixed routine for checking the level. I have a BMW R1100GS, which has a very similar engine. Here are my advices: If you want to check oil: always do it with a warm engine (a tank stop during a ride is a perfect opportunity) when stopping for fuel, do NOT put the bike on the center stand right after you stopped, put it on the side stand instead. Get off the bike, put off your helmet, put off your gloves, do not hurry. Leave the bike on the side stand for a few minutes. Your bike has an oil cooler, and this thing may hold some oil and does not let it flow back into the oil pan if you put the bike right on the center stand after having stopped. This does not harm anything, but it makes it difficult to check the oil level. After a few minutes, put the bike on the center stand, so that it stands vertically. You may now fill up the fuel tank, if you wish to. After a few minutes, you can check the oil level in the round glass window in the engine case. The oil level should fill at least 50% of the window, 75% is the best. If you follow this procedure without changing anything, then you can see if your bike burns oil and if you have to fill up oil. As far as i know the difference between minimum amd maximum is less than one liter, so if you can see any oil in the control window, try to put 0.2 liter in the engine and look again. And another advice: Many people use 10W40 oil for their aircooled 4 valve boxers, basically the same they use in their car. I would recommend 20W50. The aircooled boxer has quite some thermal stress, so a slightly thicker oil reduces noise and oil consumption.
Do you have to spend a lot of money to buy a great touring motorcycle?
What’s “a lot of money” and “a great touring motorcycle”?? You can buy a 2004–6 BMW R1150RT, fully loaded, for about $3–5k. That’s one of the best touring motorcycles ever made. I’ve carved through packs of Ducatis on one without sweating hard. You can buy a 2012–14 Honda Goldwing, also fully loaded, for $10–13k. It’s not as sprightly (weighs over half a ton, comes with a reverse gear because you can’t push it backwards from a stop reliably) but it’s hugely comfortable and has a vast following (and aftermarket parts supply). Even new, really great bikes are less expensive that medium to average cars.
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