peugeot idle problem
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peugeot idle problem Post Review
Throwing modern technology and testing techniques at an old problem. 1992 #Peugeot 205 with irratic idle. http://t.co/1RWHrmousK
@PeugeotUK Do Peugeot’s still have idle cut out problem ?
Peugeot forums post Irregfular running at idle, stalls at roundabout: I had a similar problem with my ... http://t.co/SMzfhIVx #peugeot
Peugeot forums post 407sw 2.0l hdi power shortage/hesitation,rough idle: Hi. I have the same problem, i... http://bit.ly/eSGhaH #peugeot
Am apreciat un videoclip pe @YouTube, https://t.co/QxOSsL9Ul2 Idle Problems 50cc Peugeot Vivacity Scooter
Idle problems in Peugeot 405 injection engines: https://t.co/OAgRzMayEW vía @YouTube
Teigiamai įvertinau „@YouTube“ vaizdo įrašą http://t.co/djH6wKRve7 „peugeot 406 2.2 hdi idle problem“
406 Auto judder at idle: Morning, I have had this problem for a few months with my Peugeot 406 2.0 petrol automa... http://bit.ly/iytjuT
Peugeot forums post Cutting out on idle?: Hi there people, having problems with my 2.0i GTX Estate 1995... http://bit.ly/ld1Lfw #peugeot
peugeot idle problem Q&A Review
What is the simplest car repair you have ever done?
I used to enjoy visiting my local scrapyard. I lived in a small town in England and we only had the 1 yard, I was often in there nosying around seeing if they had anything interesting (they were pretty cool like that, as long as you stuck your head in the office and made yourself known they let you wander around to your hearts content). One Saturday morning, I noticed a Peugeot 405 estate sat in the front of the yard, yet to be placed on the stack. It stuck out because, unlike the other cars awaiting stacking around it, it looked immaculate. If memory serves me, it was an M reg so would have been a 1994 or 1995 model, and this would have been about 2005 so it was roughly 10 years old. I went for a closer look. It then dawned on me that this car was owned by the taxi company who I always used to ferry me to and from town on my weekend nights out. In fact, I had been in it the weekend before. It had around 130000 miles on it, so getting up there but not starship mileage like most taxis. It was a petrol as well, not a diesel, again unusual for a taxi. So yeah, the car was mint, inside and out. I assumed something had gone expensively wrong mechanically and thats why it had met its demise. Still, worth an ask. So, I stuck my head in the office and enquired as to why it had been scrapped. The scrappy said he didn't know, the guy had driven it in that morning, it sounded fine. Odd. I asked if I could fire it up, he said no worries, so I did. It sounded fine. Quick clutch check, good bite. Something amiss here. Why would you scrap a car with nothing wrong with it? Surely there HAD to be something wrong with it. So, I decided to take a punt. Now, its time to mention that at the time I was a Peugeot mechanic, so had access to all the diagnostic equipment, so I went in and asked if they would sell me the whole car. Sure, 200 quid and its yours. Deal. So, I went and got the cash, got a lift back to the yard and picked up the 405. I drove it straight to work. Thats when the problem arose. Once it was warm, it kept cutting out. Every time without fail when I came to a stop, it cut out. If you kept a bit of throttle on, it would keep running. Easy. Idle control valve will be contaminated and/or seized. So, once I got to work I spent all of 10 minutes removing, cleaning and refitting the valve. I got one of the lads who was on shift to do an mot on it and made it very clear I would be selling it on so don't do me any favours as I want it to be right, and it passed without a single advisory. Awesome, I then rang my uncle who was a carpet fitter and had told me his parter was looking for a cheap estate to use for work and to let him know if I knew of anything. I told him I had just the car for him. He came and paid me 750 for it that afternoon. So, I made over 500 for an educated punt and 10 minutes work. That night, I rang my taxi guy who turned up in a new Skoda Octavia…. “What happened to the Peugeot?” “Scrapped it this morning, kept cutting out on me and I couldn't be bothered with it anymore" “Funny you should say that……..” He took it very well, he was actually pleased I had saved it and kept it on the road. The simplest ones that come to mind whilst at work on customers cars are the one that came in as it had “lost power” and all it was was the floor mat had slid forward and bunched up under the accelerator not allowing it to get any more than half throttle, and the “persistent knocking noise from the rear somewhere but only when I go round a corner" that, whilst the customer was driving and I was sat in the back, I fixed by holding his air freshener that he had hung off the rear grab handle thus stopping it tapping on the window when he went round a corner (he called himself a twat when I told him).
Have you ever taken your car to a mechanic thinking it would be an arm and a leg and it was a simple cheap fix making your day?
In 2003 I drove a 1996 Peugeot 405 SR 1.9 Auto. It was a fine car. Comfortable French seats all around, good steady handling, a solid motorcar. No problems. One Monday morning the motorcar started as usual and engine purred healthily but after I put it into Drive and began moving, it spluttered and spewed clouds of black smoke. There was progress but it was excruciatingly slow and I decided not to risk driving as it would be a hazard and danger to traffic. The funny thing was when I stopped and let the engine idle, it was totally fine. The problem only occurred when I increase the throttle to accelerate. Later at around midnight, with the help of a friend as safety marshal, I slowly drove the motorcar to a specialist Peugeot workshop about 12 km away from my bachelor house to assess the condition. I was worried that the engine might have to be ‘brought down’ (local lingo for major engine repair) to fix the problem. So the next morning I visited the mechanic and they took a look. As the engine started and idling fine but spluttered like a boat when moving, they checked the carburetor, the distributor, coil, plugs and what-nots but found nothing was amiss. One of the senior mechanics (there were three of them, and all of them were seniors, like around 50 something at that time) then decided to dismantle and check the air duct from the grill leading towards the carburetor. The duct opening was not very big, about the size of a 6.2″ smartphone but lo and behold, he did found something in it. A piece of flimsy plastic was lodged inside the duct. How it went in there, I don’t know but it disrupted the inflow of air when the motorcar was moving, choking the carburetor of air. The piece of plastic must have flown into the duct when I drove on the PLUS Highway from my family home in Taiping to my workplace in Ipoh the night before it happened. After dislodging the culprit, a bit of adjustment to the carburetor and driving around the area to confirm the matter was resolved, I took the motorcar home and it worked fine after that. For lots of head scratching and about an hour’s work, I paid RM15 or around USD4 for the trouble. That surely made my day then.
As a mechanic what was the craziest thing someone said after you worked on their car?
Many moons ago around Christmas time, we had a customer drop off his Peugeot 306 turbo diesel for us to remove the aftermarket alarm system that kept randomly going off. I did it first job of the day so the engine was still hot, hence I didn't notice the problem that was to come. It took me about 2 hours to dismantle the old system, rewire it back to factory etc by which time it had cooled enough to be a bit difficult to start. “alarm is removed, it needs a set of glow plugs” I told my foreman, and he said ok he would try and sell the customer a set. The customer wasn't interested saying “it always starts eventually”. So, the customer comes back to pick it up later in the afternoon and he ends up flattening the battery trying and failing to start it, so in he comes to ask for a jump pack. I again tried to suggest a set of glow plugs as he will just have the same issue every day, still he wasn't interested. My foreman didn't want to just hand this guy our battery pack so he sent the apprentice out with him, and eventually flattened the jump pack, still wouldn't go. “mate this is ridiculous just shell out for a set of glow plugs” …… nope. So the apprentice gets a can of easy start and a second jump pack and gets the guy to crank it whilst spraying tiny bits in, well it took and revved itself off the clock briefly but then finally fired up and idled, so off the guy went. 2 days later he came back saying his car was now smoking and felt lumpy and it was only doing it since he took it from us the other day. We checked and one of the cylinders was low on compression, so we surmised when it briefly revved itself into oblivion from the easy start, it had done something terminal to the guts of the engine. So, I had to pull the head off and it was found that the cylinder down on compression had bent one of the rods slightly. Obviously, the cheapskate customer who didn't want to shell out for a set of glow plugs to prevent this problem was now adamant we owed him a new engine. My boss said no way is he getting a new engine. Customer dug his heels in. Boss explained how we were trying to do him a favour to get his car started because he was too tight to buy glow plugs, customer relented a little, and eventually an agreement was made that the customer would source an engine from a scrapyard at his own risk and cost, and we would install it free of charge. So yeah, cheapskate customers insistence on us getting his car going instead of spending 100 on a set of glow plugs ended up costing him way more than that on a replacement engine. I was pissed off because for the last couple of days before Christmas when we were usually winding it down and taking it easy (everyone else still was), I had to do an engine swap when none of it had anything to do with me.
What can I do to prevent carbon buildup under the intake valves of my VW 2.0L TSI engine with direct fuel injection? The top tier fuel has no effect.
Almost all of the answers have focused on fuel- the fuel never touches the intake valve on the intake valve side. Any number of additives or premium fuels will have no effect whatsoever- they will be injected and burnt within the cylinder just the same (although higher octane fuels may allow a little more ignition advance and power). The 2.0TSI suffers the same problem as the BMW N54 and PSA/BMW R56 Mini Cooper S engine. The crankcase ventilation system vents into the intake, and the hot oil mist is drawn into the engine. This is a good idea in theory, as it prevents atmospheric venting of the oil mist/vapour that would be unsightly, messy and fall foul of the emissions regulations. However the first thing the oil mist meets is the roasting hot, dry, rear of the intake valve as it is drawn into the engine. It will begin to build up on the valve rear face and the steam and eventually reduce the area that air can be drawn through. Manufacturers and other companies actually offer a ‘walnut blasting’ service that uses ground walnut shells to gently remove the carbon without damaging the valve. There isn’t a way of avoiding this oil being drawn into the engine without installing a remote oil catch can. These will collect the oil mist rather than running it through the engine- these are available in the aftermarket and will not negatively impact the engine at all. The PSA/BMW THP engine mentioned earlier- on later editions of this engine used in Peugeot cars, Peugeot simply blanked off the port that vented the PCV into the intake. A known problem that they found a simply solution to. Happy Motoring. PS. This issue usually doesn’t cause any issues until over 150,000 miles or so. Don’t worry about it too much- it won’t cause any damage beyond slightly lumpy idle and lethargic power output/reduced mpg.
What could cause premature engine failure due to problem piston rings in a 4 1/2 year old car after only 50,000 kms (Peugeot 308 petrol turbo 1.2 litre)?
Bad fuel, poor maintenance, maybe bad rings from manufacturer, improper break in procedure for engine. And most likely operator error/failure of working the engine properly (very high idle time with very low driving time)
What can a faulty fuel shutoff solenoid do to a diesel engine?
There are two possible ways a fuel shut-off solenoid can fail. Fail closed. I.e., the solenoid doesn’t open, therefore you cannot get any fuel into the engine and it will not run. Fail open. I.e., the solenoid will not close and therefore will not shut off the fuel. The engine, if running, will keep running. The first situation is just a pain. Replacing the solenoid is necessary to get you up and running again. The second situation only really matters on older mechanical diesel engines, such as found in tractors, dumper trucks, machinery or older vehicles. Modern diesel engine cars and vehicles are more likely to use electrically operated injectors on a high-pressure common rail system and although they may still have a fuel shutoff solenoid, simply turning off the ignition will disable the ECU which in turn shuts off the injectors and the engine will stop quite happily. With a faulty fuel solenoid on an older diesel that stays open, the engine will carry on running, but only at idle speed. Unless you give it some throttle, it will just tick over at 500rpm or whatever your tickover speed is. Engaging a high gear and letting the clutch out quickly with the brakes applied will usually stop a diesel at tickover speed quite safely. The real problem comes if you have a ‘runaway’ diesel. This is usually caused by wear in the engine, or a faulty oil seal in the turbo (if fitted) which allows engine oil into the induction system. Hot engine oil in a running diesel acts in exactly the same way as the fuel itself. Even a working fuel shutoff solenoid may not stop the engine as it is getting this alternative supply of ‘fuel’ from a different route. Again, a runaway diesel is usually dealt with by engaging a high gear and dumping the clutch or, if practical, cutting off the air supply to the engine. I have a 230cc diesel-powered all-terrain motorcycle (EcoRider). The engine has electric start and a fuel shutoff solenoid. In case of a flat battery, it is possible to start the engine by a lever which mechanically opens the fuel solenoid (which is normally electrically operated and kickstarting the bike. In order to shut off the engine, it is simply throttled back to idle, and the fuel can be mechanically switched off again. Of course, once the engine is running, the alternator then charges the battery up again, the mechanical over-ride can be reset, and the engine will then shut off normally with the solenoid. The only time I had a fuel solenoid fail closed on a car, and it refused to start, was on my 1992 Peugeot 309. A replacement solenoid cost less than a pint of beer and took five minutes to fit. It’s not a big deal.
What are real life scams that people fall for all the time?
MINI dealership charging for a blown engine, bad head gasket. Usually the problem is a $11 freeze plug located in the top center of the head. The freeze plug is a thimble shaped aluminum disc that is pressed into the head during assembly. It is also the place where a steam pocket will gather. The steam expands and pushes the plug out. All the water in the engine pours into the oil pan, where it is churned up by the oil pump. Aerated oil will not move past the solenoid filter screen, so the engine senses “no oil pressure" and cuts off. Preventing the steam pocket is very important, and Peugeot provided a bleed screw to burp the water system. The fix for this “blown engine": Clean the oil pump. Drain all water and oil. Install a new freeze plug, or install a threaded plug instead. Lube the cam lobes with assembly lube. Fire it up for a minute and then change the water and oil. Run it again and drain the water (check for oil). Let it cool and inspect the oil for creamyness. Change oil. Repeat until systems are free of crossd contamination. The dealer (at $100/hr) does not have time for this 10 hour untidy job. They prefer to swap in a new longblock and hoses for $8k. BTW, the oil pump solenoid is part of the fuel mileage improvement system on the French engine. This solenoid is an electric valve that reduces the work that the engine does, by lowering oil volume that is pumped during low idle. A few pennies in fuel saved….. at the expense of starving the engine when the oil is not perfectly clean Thanks EPA! We appreciate the CAFE standards!
Why is Peugeot 406 jerking on start until I apply throttle before starting well? Why is the same car making bursting sound like gunfire on motion?
It sounds like, for the second part, you have a bad camshaft. If it is popping through the intake the exhaust valve is not opening up and pushing the exhaust back the intake instead of the exhaust. I just remembered that it makes the engine run rough at idle also. I had to change my brother in law’s because of this problem. You can check yourself, with a few tools but it will be messy. If you can, remove the valve cover and start the engine. Watch and see if one is not moving like the other ones are.
What causes an engine to stall at idle?
I had a problem with the Throttle Position Sensor on my Peugeot 206CC: if I pressed on the pedal before starting the car, it could sometimes believe that the depressed position was the new zero and cause the car to die when releasing the pedal as it would rev fine but would go to 400 rpm, with a really rough idle and then stall, but when slightly pressed it would run perfectly. Solution: Get the on board computer to reset its values: make sure nothing is pressing on the pedal, that it’s fully “up”, then close the car and walk away for 30 minutes. Maybe even unplug the battery, then reconnect, open the car, don’t touch the pedals at all, put the key in the ignition, turn the car on - but not to start - wait until all lights go off, ready to start, then start the car. If you are lucky, you are off! Other cases can be fuel supply issues or air issues, or for gas/petrol engine, check plug cables or could be a failing coil pack, or random stalling on older electronic ignition, the ignition capacitor, but it would stall randomly at any speed, and not just tickover.
My car cut out when driving a Peugeot 307 1.6 HDi 90hp PLS. Who can help me with this problem? It has followed me for more than a year now and no mechanical can help.
Your question is ambiguous as to the circumstances as to which the cutting out occurs. Is it when idling? or is it during driving? at what revs? Faulty flywheel sensor would cause cutting out at random. Hard start and cutting out at idling would mean low fuel rail pressure and this would mean one or some of the fuel system components are failing, or the fuel rail pressure sensor is failing. You would need to take it to a diesel workshop for diagnosis on the specific fuel system component, but Diagbox software in the hands of a competent person can also do the same. All the best.
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