subaru aftermarket exhaust
subaru aftermarket exhaust Related Articles
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subaru aftermarket exhaust Post Review
New video! Toyobaru Aftermarket Exhaust: #Toyota #Subaru #Scion #GT86 #BRZ #FRS #VSC #VisiosSportsCars
Boys always have the audacity to run you off the road & then flip you off like you did something. Like hun, get out of your jacked up Subaru with the aftermarket exhaust that sounds like a trombone in a middle school band with your 5’1 self & look in my eyes and try me.
Stock badgeless 2014 subaru legacy, with an aftermarket exhaust and tinted windows so no one can see it's an automatic.
Q&A: What would be a good aftermarket exhaust for a 2008 subaru impreza 2.5i? http://bit.ly/aizeY8
The aftermarket exhaust, rack, and flaps REALLY make it. #iwant #Subaru #WRX #CoffeeCarsofDayton http://t.co/2Jp14qlcgZ
The new Subaru STIs with aftermarket exhaust sound FREAKING SICK.
Without a doubt. A Subaru with an aftermarket exhaust on it is the best sound a car can make😍👌
Subaru xv ade aftermarket exhaust tak?
Life lesson: Your loud aftermarket exhaust on your little Subaru Legacy or Outback or whatever you have, does not make you cool. Don't rev it up and peel out of the parking lot. The car is not impressive as is, adding a loud exhaust system makes it worse.
There is no such thing as a #subaru that sounds good with an aftermarket exhaust #facts #sorrynotsorry #cars #truth
subaru aftermarket exhaust Q&A Review
Car enthusiasts: Can you identify a car by the sound of its engine?
“Car enthusiasts: Can you identify a car by the sound of its engine?” Sometimes, but only certain, distinct cars, and only stock spec. A lot of hot rodders put on aftermarket exhaust. I can usually identify the following just by the sound: Dodge Viper Late model Dodge Challenger Nissan 370Z BMW M5 Ferrari, not model specific Maserati, not model specific Aston Martin, not model specific Prius Subaru WRX STI Honda Civic with a fart can GM V8 muscle sisters from the late 90s.
What makes a flat-4 engine sound different from an inline-4, since they're both 4 cylinders and have two power-strokes per revolution?
It's mainly going to be on how the exhaust runners are made, a good example of this is the engines used in the Subaru BRZ/FRS/86 versus their older ej series predecessors which joined opposing banks first rather then bring the cylinders into a merge. You'll notice with the BRZ you get a nice even tone when it's revved even with an aftermarket exhaust versus a WRX which when the exhaust is changed it develops that choppy sound due to the pulses being unevenly pushing out. Now you'd imagine with the WRX having the turbo there to join all the exhaust pulses together it would sound even, however because the manifold at the start allows such an unevenness to begin with you get stuck with that noise until you change the manifold to conjoin the correctly opposed cylinders together to produce a smooth harmonic balance. At least that's what I've gathered so far in my research into manifolds when I wanted to fabricate one but so far the Subaru engines have been the best example of this besides engine timing playing a factor as well.
Have you ever bought a car, to find it had a part fitted that has made the car significantly more valuable than you first thought?
I bought my wife a slightly used 2015 VW GTI for what was a very good price from a local Subaru dealership. They claimed it had been traded in on a new Subaru. From an initial glance I knew it had upgraded rims but that was all that really stuck out. The car drove well and still does now a few years later but I took it to a VW dealership to get a small repair on something I broke (oil pan sensor from driving down a very rutted dirt road). The tech at the dealership informed me that the car was extremely modified and done well. Other than the rims it had been lowered with performance suspension (hence bottoming it out), aftermarket bumper and headlight assemblies, new performance headers and exhaust, new engine mounts, retuned engine, short shifter and what he assumed was an aftermarket racing clutch (he could tell the clutch had been opened and assumed that’s why). Now I understand why that car is so damn fun to drive. I also have decided that there was no way someone bought a 30k$ plus car dropped at least ten grand on it and then traded it in after 18 months on a Subaru at such a low price that I got it for 18k. More than likely it was repo and bought at auction. Either way I (my wife) got a sweet car for much less than it was worth. All I had to do was pull the HID lights (computer hates them) and get some rims and snow tires. Now it drives great year round.
Is it more worth buying a used 2006 Subaru WRX (and build it up) or a brand new 2019 WRX?
The very first thing you should ask yourself is whether this will be your daily driver or not. Based on that answer, this could go different ways. If the answer is “yes” and you absolutely must have a reliable car, then without a doubt buy the new WRX and don’t modify it until the warranty runs out. If the answer is “no” then it really depends on what you want to do. If you can find a clean 2006 that hasn’t already been modded (good luck) then that might be a good way to go. You might be able to find one that has stuff already done you were planning on doing. If your desire is to modify the car regardless of what you buy then don’t get the new car - because you will void the warranty. Even if you find a mod-friendly dealer (yes, some dealers will work with you to get things fixed if you have an issue), you still run a big risk as Subaru won’t accept every claim. Just understand you will have issues. It’s the nature of modding. Things will happen. Stuff breaks sometimes or doesn’t work out quite as expected. And who knows what the previous owner did to the car before you got your hands on it if you get the 2006. I was in the same position as you back in 2011, new WRX, or older one and mod it. What clinched it for me was that was the year the sedan body style was introduced and I loved it. Plus it would be my daily driver meaning it absolutely had to stay reliable. So since I decided to buy new I wasn’t going to mod it until the warranty ran out. And because I was worried I would get bored with the WRX, I bought an STI (plus I secretly wanted the STI anyway). And I drove it with the only mod being a pitch stop mount and aftermarket wheels until the warranty ran out. It was a blast to drive. When the warranty ran out, I bought a COBB AccessPort, an intake and an aftermarket exhaust. Those and a short throw shifter are the only mods I have done. It’s still my daily to this day. And it is still way too much fun to drive. So it depends on what your priorities are. Either the 2006 or the 2019 will be fun. What’s most important to you?
What is an affordable, high quality two seat city car?
I have been daily driving a 2001 Mazda Miata for almost 2 years and have put almost 40k on it since buying it. I drive it around San Francisco often and drive it between Norcal and Los Angeles now and then, and have never ran into any problems (I just keep up with regular maintenance). I LOVE this car and appreciate the amazing handling and simplicity of it. The only time I consider other cars is when I need to carry large items like luggages (the trunk can fit the maximum carry on luggage size for southwest which is perfect for me), when I just want to drive more than 1 friend, or when a Honda pulls up to me and I know that I can't beat it in a straight line. HOWEVER, no other car in this price range can out race this car in back roads or mountains. You ,can ,get a BMW Z3/4 which offers more technology, but the handling (surprisingly) is just not up to par with the Miata. I did add lowered suspensions to my car, get better speakers installed, and also an aftermarket exhaust to slightly improve the driving experience. Depending on your budget, I would go with the Honda s2000 if you had more to spend since it does have more power than a Miata (handling is slightly worse) or the Subaru/Toyota, BRZ/FRS/86, which is a 4 seater, but you might as well consider it a 2 seater since the rear leg room is nonexistent. It's handling is as good as the Miata, but I did miss the luxury of a convertible rooftop often. I hope this helps, feel free to comment any other questions you have, or if you had specific things you were looking for!
How can I find an exhaust system for my 2010 Outback 2.5i Premium (6MT transmission) that will “breathe” better and increase its horsepower a bit?
I don’t know who makes an aftermarket exhaust manifold and cat-back system for your vehicle, but generally Subaru boxer engine is difficult to design an exhaust manifold for better flow. Because of engine layout, an equal lenghth of 4–2–1 manifold design is very difficult with avoiding interfering the oil filter (for EJ25). Even the 4–2–1 manifold is designed well, the pipe length will be relatively longer than other In-line 4 engines, and the exhaust gas temperature tends to be reduced due to the length, which affects losing horse power (lowering back pressure). I will recommend to use a heat wrap to avoid radiating an exhaust heat from the manifold. I do own 2018 Legacy with FB25 engine, and I don’t have any complain for exhaust manifold design since the oil filter is relocated to top of the engine and it allows for better manifold design (dry start will have another issue though..). Exhaust pipe is also thicker for 2.5 L engine. Rather than the exhaust, the intake guide of inlet opening on above radiator should be the same as outlet to the air filter box. The only thing I don’t understand how Subaru designed the inlet opening area is smaller than its outlet.
What are the things they don’t tell you about owning a supercar?
There are supercars that make sense and supercars that make no sense whatsoever. Here in upstate NY, owning a Ferrari or Lamborghini is crazy. It'll spend most of the year in the garage. I don't buy cars to keep them in the garage. I drive the shit out of them. I also get a huge kick out of taking something more pedestrian and turning it into something that will spank the shit out of cars that should demolish it. In 2004. I bought a Subaru Sti, which essentially starts as an Impreza, a 20k economy car. Over several years it morphed into a 600hp street car, which was a lot of hp until recently. A full roll cage, sequential shifter, racing coilovers, bracing etc. It could beat almost anything on the street from a dead stop through high G turns, including exotics. I could embarrass your 500k exotic with it. I even threw Blizzaks on it in the winter and played in the powder. I had a favorite setting for snow (one up from full open) on the center differential long before other cars came with them. Was it a supercar? No. Was it a super car? Fuck yes. The only guys stupid enough to challenge me were driving Audis…i didn't get it. They'd buzz around me on interstates to provoke a response. I'd laugh at them. It was at one time the most watched Subaru project build in the US. It evolved to the point where it couldn't pass inspection and I had to take it off the streets. It's now a GT Rolex level pro racecar running road courses with a dog box and almost 2 tons of downforce. We're about to drop in a race-built 6 cylinder from a Subaru Tribeca with a 75lb turbo. It'll be making 900 reliable horsepower out of a 3 litter (182 ci) displacement instead of 600hp from a 152 ci 4 cylinder. To all my American muscle friends, imagine 900hp out of 182ci. Nuts, right? I earned my pro racing license in my mid 50s. For letting it go, my consolation prize was an 09 Nissan GTR; one of only three sub 3 sec 0–60 cars manufactured at that time. I immediately started modifying it, starting with brakes (two piece rotors and Hawk street/race pads), Stillen sways and tuning. Within a couple of years the aftermarket caught up. I added Garrett ball bearing “30r” sized turbos, larger intakes, a high flow volume controlled exhaust system, Cobb AccessRace with TCM and I upgraded the transmission when it broke a yoke. The tranmission has broken two more times. It's now completely built to handle 2000 hp with a PPG helical gearset that whines in every forward gear. I love mechanical noises. I recently added Penske racing coilovers that are setup for the track. It looks bone stock. A true “sleeper” GTR. It has been my daily driver even in the salt covered roads of Northeast winters as long as there's no frozen precipitation because it's on summer extreme tires year round. It lives in the woods. The signs of all that use and abuse are not that obvious until we started digging into the car. It had 100,000 hard driven miles before we started it's restoration in November, which is rare for an 800hp GTR. In fact, it's the highest mileage GTR in my region of upstate New York. It's was tuned to the limit of the OEM rods, which is a real credit to my tuner. The restoration: Nearly every nut and bolt was replaced. We installed new oem front and rear subframes. The interior got a detailing and Recaro Speed GT seats. It also got beautiful red stitch on black diamond pattern mats from the UK. Engine: Cicio Performance (“Top Speed”) built the engine with Carillo rods and CP pistons, head work including .274 Cams, twin “Elite Prime Turbos” (.82 hot side. 65lb cold side), larger intakes, a larger ETS Intercooler, ID1700 injectors, an in-tank triple Walbro fuel pump setup, Tial BOVs and a 4″ high flow exhaust. Suspension: The same Penske coilovers set up for the track, larger front and rear sways, end links, front adjustable camber arms which were needed to make the Advan A6 wheels 20x11″ with 315 Toyos fit. We also had to hack the fender liners. The rear got 20x12 inchers with 325 Toyos. Brakes: We replaced the 2 piece rotors on all four corners and the rear parking brake assembly. Tuning: With Ecutek on a DynoJet: 1000whp on 93 / 1200whp on e85. Exterior: Outside, the exterior will remain stock until I decide to do a satin wrap. I'll be adding CF wide body front fenders. I would also add a taller adjustable spoiler in the rear, for more downforce, but I would also need to add a splitter in the front for balance and the car already sits too low for rural driveways as it is. I'll figure it out when the time comes. Was it a legitimate supercar as a stock GTR? Yes it was. It was conceived as Nissan's everyday supercar and it trounced high priced exotics when it was released in the US on ’09. Right now we're in budget hypercar territory power and handling- wise. About the only supercar that will be able to beat it on the street or the track will be another GTR with more horsepower. This summer, we'll be busy hunting down Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Porsches, Vettes and other domestic performance cars. The “NYC Exotic Club” comes up to my neck of the woods several times a year to race the 8th mile at a local airport. For the 1/4 mile on the Toyos I'm expecting low 9 sec ET with a 160 mph trap. On slicks it should turn high 8s with a 165+ trap. Street car, racecar…same thing. This is my system for managing traffic stops. I call it, “love the cop you're with”. Leo Ambrose's answer to Have you ever argued yourself out of a ticket?
Why does a turbocharger require an intercooler while a supercharger does not?
In truth, neither turbocharging nor supercharging ,require, an “intercooler,” which is properly named a “charge air cooler.” Forced induction systems of all types can run without cooling the air charge, but doing so reduces the efficacy of the system. Forced induction, regardless of whether belt-driven (supercharger) or exhaust-gas-impeller-driven (turbocharger) work by pushing more air into the intake manifold. More air means more oxygen, which with additional fuel and spark mean more power (remember kids, suck, squish, bang, blow!). Accelerating air heats it, and compressing it heats it even more. If you remember, heat is simply motion at the atomic level and cold is just a lack of motion, so that’s pretty easy to remember. A basic diagram of a turbocharging system Intercoolers work by running air through a radiator made of many small fins of highly heat-conductive material, usually aluminum or similar. The air charge passes through the radiator, and since the car is moving, fresh air is running across the fins on the outside, enabling heat transfer. It is ,exactly, the same thing as your radiator (and if your car is equipped with them, oil or transmission coolers), with the only notable difference being that your radiator has fluid in it and the intercooler has air in it. Intercoolers are usually placed between the compressor fan where the air is accelerated and/or compressed and the intake manifold, cooling the charge after its heated and before it goes into the cylinders. A Roots-style blower sticking out of the hood of a muscle car, with carburetors and air filter on top of it. Intercooling is less common among superchargers for one simple reason - packaging. Roots type and twin-screw type superchargers are usually mounting directly on top of the intake manifold - usually as an actual ,part, of the intake manifold - which makes placing an intercooler difficult, though it has been done before. Centrifugal superchargers and turbochargers (which differ only in the fact that where the turbocharger has an exhaust-driven impeller, the supercharger has a belt-driven gearset instead) are remotely mounted, and thus make including an intercooler in the system easy. A more realistic view of packaging with an air-to-air charge air cooled turbocharging system. Note the remote placement of both the turbo and the intercooler This is a twin-screw supercharger. It is a positive displacement supercharger, meaning that it compresses air inside the supercharger as well as accelerates it into the intake manifold. Note that the compressed air comes out the bottom. An air-to-water intercooler for a twin screw blower, which mounts directly to the bottom of the blower. A twin-screw supercharger with integrated intercooler. Note the custom intake manifold that includes the intercooler, and the height of the system. Installed in a Subaru BRZ this SprintEX brand twin-screw intercooled supercharger barely clears the hood - notice the height of the pulley and supercharger assembly (in the very center of the photo, the large pulley with the belt going down is the supercharger drive pulley). Hood clearance will be very tight. Notice that the blue strut tower brace is significantly below the top of the blower. A Crawford Performance turbo kit for a Subaru BRZ. Notice the lack of height in the black intake manifold, allowing the strut tower brace to be connected, and the green piping which leads to the green and silver turbocharger mounted centrally at the front of the bay. The remote nature of turbocharging allowed the designer to move that mass away from the top of the engine bay leaving room for the strut tower brace to stiffen the chassis. Most factory superchargers are Roots-type blowers in the US. GM has used Eaton manufactured Roots blowers exclusively to my knowledge for decades, though supercharging has fallen out of favor to turbocharging, due to turbochargers being more fuel-efficient while providing more power at the price of a higher boost threshold (often mistakenly called turbo lag). In practice, most forced induction systems are limited to around 5–6psi of boost without some method of cooling the air charge. Boost is the amount of compressed air, measured in pounds per square inch in Standard measure or Bar in metric, above our normal atmospheric pressure added to the air charge. Earth’s atmosphere at sea level is 14.5psi or 1 Bar. So a system running 5 pounds of boost is pushing 19.5psi absolute, 5psi above our normal atmospheric pressure. We tend to find that pressures much above 5–6psi (.34-.4 bar) lose efficiency without a charge air cooler, where the air is expanding from being heated so much that it overwhelms the compression we’re trying to achieve. Adiabiatic efficiency map, showing air charge temperatures by color as they pass through a twin screw supercharger Few factory systems rely on anything but a traditional air-to-air intercooler (as described above, like a radiator), because the alternatives are either consumable or complex (which you can simply read as “expensive”). Aftermarket setups sometimes use water or methanol injection, which are exactly what they sound like, injecting those substances into the air charge, usually in the intake manifold, to cool the air charge through evaporation. The problem, of course, is that you run out of water or methanol and have to refill those tanks, and most people can barely be bothered to put gas in their cars and have their oil changed. You’ll also occasionally see air-to-water intercoolers, which run the compressed air charge over a heat exchanger filled with coolant to cool the air charge. These setups are more complex, and thus more expensive, because the coolant must be cooled down again after it’s heated, necessitating a pumping system to move the coolant around, check valves to ensure hot coolant isn’t recirculated before it cools down, and a second heat exchanger to dissipate the heat transferred from the air charge to the coolant. Thus ends your basic education on forced induction. Hopefully you understand the nature of forced induction and intercooling sufficiently to understand why charge air coolers are commonly used, but not required.
What car do you drive and why is it your first choice?
I drive two vehicles on the street and a dedicated racecar. 09 Nissan GTR: The GTR was one of only three sub 3 sec 0–60 cars manufactured in 09. They retailed for 70k. Dealers wanted 20k over MSRP and they were flipping them on eBay for 112,000k when I walked into the dealer and negotiated for mine. I paid 80k. It was one of the first GTRs in my region of NY. I immediately started modifying it, starting with brakes (two piece rotors and Hawk street/race pads), Stillen sways and tuning. Within a couple of years the aftermarket caught up. I added Garrett ball bearing “30r” sized turbos, larger intakes, a high flow volume controlled exhaust system. It was tuned Cobb AccessRace using speed density (instead of the MAF sensor) with TCM and I upgraded the transmission when it broke a yoke. The tranmission has broken two more times. It's now completely built to handle 2000 hp with a PPG helical gearset that whines in every forward gear. I love mechanical noises. I recently added Penske racing coilovers that are setup for the track. It looks bone stock. A true “sleeper” GTR. It has been my daily driver even in the winter as long as there's no frozen precipitation because it's on summer extreme tires year round. It has 100,000 miles on the OD, which is rare for an 800hp GTR. It's been tuned to the limit of the OEM rods, which is a real credit to my tuner. Right now it's getting a complete restoration. Every nut and bolt that needs replacing will be. It has new front and rear subframes. We're swapping to 20 x 11″ wheels on the front with adjustible camber arms 315 Toyos and 20 x12s on the rears with 325 Toyos. It's lowered and I keep the negative camber maxed out to ~-3. Advan A6 We're rebuilding the shortblock with Carillo forged racing internals, headwork, cams, new twin 65lb turbos, a 4″ high flow exhaust system, a larger intercooler, intake and supporting mods which will produce 1000+ hp on 93 octane and 1300hp on E85. The new engine: We're also installing new Recaro seats. CF overlays for the switchgear, new carpets and freshening/detailing the rest of the interior. Outside, the exterior will remain stock until I decide to do a wrap. I would add a taller adjustable spoiler in the rear, for more downforce, but I would also need to add a splitter in the front for balance and the car already sits pretty low for rural driveways as it is. I'll figure it out aero after this current round of mods. At 800hp, my GTR with it's suspension setup is mind-blowing. At 1300hp it will be completely nuts. It'll be tuned with Ecutek, which will get me through inspection. The engine will be broken in on the Dyno. I'm expecting it back in mid March. I'll have it at Limerock Road Course in the early spring to wring it out. Was it a legitimate supercar as a stock GTR? Yes it was. It was conceived as Nissan's everyday supercar and it trounced high priced exotics when it was released in the US in ’09. When it's finished, about the only supercar that will be able beat it on the street or the track will be another GTR with more horsepower. Street car, racecar…same thing to me. As for why it's my first choice, do I really need to explain? I'll have nearly a quarter million dollars total in it, including the price of the car, when I'm done. 2019 Chevy Silverado 3500 Duramax LTZ Dually: It's a beast. It's primary job is to handle the upstate NY winters and tow THIS to racetracks: 04 Subaru Sti I get a huge kick out of taking something pedestrian and turning it into something that will spank the shit out of cars that should demolish it. In 2004. I bought a Subaru Sti, which essentially starts as an Impreza; a 20k economy car. Over several years it morphed into a 600hp street car, which was a lot of hp until recently. A full roll cage, sequential shifter, racing coilovers, bracing etc. It could beat almost anything on the street from a dead stop through high G turns, including exotics. I could embarrass your 500k exotic with it. I even threw Blizzaks on it in the winter and played in the powder. I had a favorite setting for snow (one up from full open) on the center differential long before other cars came with them. The only guys stupid enough to challenge me were driving Audis…i didn't get it. They'd buzz around me on interstates to provoke a response. I'd laugh at them. It was at one time the most watched Subaru project build in the US. It evolved to the point where it couldn't pass inspection and I had to take it off the streets. The GTR was my consolation prize. It's now a GT Rolex level pro racecar running road courses on slicks, a dog box transmission, almost 2 tons of total downforce front and back, BC Racing coilovers and Stop Tech brakes. It's gutted with a full chrome moly cage. It has a dry sump oil system with a 10 liter oil reservoir in place of the rear passenger seat that burps and belches constantly. We're about to drop in a race-built 6 cylinder from a Subaru Tribeca with a 75lb turbo. It'll be making 900 reliable horsepower with a 75lb turbo out of a 3 liter (182 ci) displacement, instead of the current 600hp from a 2.5 liter (152 ci) 4 cylinder. To all my American muscle friends, imagine 900hp out of 182ci. Nuts, right? It's a cacophony of sound and a brutal weapon on the track. I've been running in the TT2 class with the boost turned down. When I turn the boost up, I can run in the Unlimited Class. I could not possibly list all the mods here or tell you how much I have in it. With the newest engine, we've got to be well over a 200k+ in it since 04. I earned my pro racing license in my mid 50s. Leo Ambrose's answer to How do you break in the engine of a new car? Leo Ambrose's answer to Have you ever argued yourself out of a ticket? Leo Ambrose's answer to Which transmission shifts faster, single-clutch automated manuals (F1, SMG, R-Tronic, E-gear, ISR) or dual-clutch automated manuals (PDK, DSG, S-Tronic)?
What rims are on the Red Subaru in the movie Baby Driver?
The red car in the beginning of baby driver is a 2004–2006 year model Subaru WRX with aftermarket wheels and exhaust. Hope you enjoyed this answer
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