The 1.5-litre naturally aspirated heart of the 2019 Toyota Yaris is a familiar unit.
Toyota has confirmed that the company will discontinue the Mazda 2-based Toyota Yaris in the US by this
The recently-introduced TNGA-based Toyota Yaris Cross (and its Yaris hatchback sibling) has garnered
an underrated gem for sure but in terms of sales, it is unmatched compared to the Honda City and the Toyota
Fun fact: The Toyota Yaris shares the same engine as the Perodua Myvi 1.5L.
is definitely heating up.Topping the B-segment hatchback sales chart for the month of October is the Toyota
Today we look back at a few stories from the Toyota Yaris.The first generation of YarisThe first Yaris
Yaris InteriorThe Toyota Yaris does not have the most stylish interior if compared to the likes of the
Over the past couple of weeks, the Toyota GR Yaris stole much of the Internet’s limelight and rightfully
Within Toyota’s model line-up for Japan, the two B-segment Toyota Yaris Cross and Toyota Raize
The Toyota GR Yaris is not a cheap car by any means, as it is priced from JPY 3.96 million (~RM 148k)
Images of a black and white patent filing of a hatchback that looks like the Toyota Yaris has surfaced
Toyota Motor Thailand has launched the new 2020 Toyota Yaris Ativ 1.2L facelift.
Prior to the model going on sale in Japan, Toyota has announced the full line-up of the 2020 Toyota GR
Now, Toyota has set off another ticking timebomb by teasing the facelifted 2021 Toyota Yaris.
the shared IMV-platform Toyota Hilux.Could it be the new updated Toyota Vios and Toyota Yaris then?
Rust can corrode the discs and damage the surface for braking.Surface rust - not a big problem.
Behold the new 2020 Toyota Yaris facelift!
Well ahead of its official debut, spyshots depicting the next generation Toyota Yaris have surfaced on
(Toyota Yaris 2019 Model | Gallery)The Toyota Yaris 2019 is a B-segment hatchback, aimed squarely at
2007 Toyota Yaris 2007 TOYOTA YARIS AUTOMATIC A/C NO RUST RUNS GREAT HIGH BID WINS FL CAR https://t.co/aVDweOlgUh https://t.co/pOFR9cTWTZ
2011 Toyota Yaris LE Hatchback - No Rust: Yaris LE in excellent condition with full power group with CD player ,… https://t.co/6QdDBpJKiG https://t.co/m6LgpIT7Ir
2007 Toyota Yaris S Sedan 4 Door - Rare, No rust! (Wadsworth) $6500 http://t.co/zYUIzJWU2B http://t.co/DlxibowTiN
@RMCRetro A Morris Marina, early 80's. Well, it was my parents. Utterly awful car. Remember nothing but problems starting the engine and rust. My first car is a 2009 Toyota Yaris which I still have and love. https://t.co/yYOymAUAnz
Poor thing, dont rust! oh wait its not a Ford:) #vitz #toyota #yaris #jdm http://t.co/B4FQvCcE
54 reg toyota yaris (tooting, Price: £2,300): hpi clear no dent or rust full service history mot till jan2011 tax ... http://bit.ly/agPF3G
@TheSimonEvans @Edeaulx Japanese. My Toyota Yaris is 21 years old, 178,000 miles in a 1 litre engine. Only now getting rust issues. I like the way they tell us about problems and fix them instead of pretending they don't exist and killing people for profit. Pride in their work.
The culprit.... Rotten exhaust pipe #rust #exhaust #Toyota #Yaris #newexhaust #soundslikearacecar https://t.co/c3oUHyVJaz
Toyota Yaris Hatchback 2008 Model Accident free, excellent condition, Fully automatic system Rust proof, V-cool.. http://bit.ly/84J77M
2007 Toyota Yaris Coupe ( City of Toronto ) $6,500.00: 2007 TOYOTA YARIS CLEAN CAR PROOF NO ACCIDENTS NO RUST ... http://t.co/iXRoYiX6IP
I recommend Toyota Yaris or Corolla. They are reliable and inexpensive. Honda Civic and Fit are good options too, however they are likely to be more rust-prone than Toyotas which may eventually become an issue if you live in an area where salt is used on the roads in winter.
Ok. So consumers reports rates used cars reliability, that is a good place to start. Then go online, and do more research on specific year/model you are looking at buying. Last, take it to a mechanic to be inspected. Another thing to take notice of , cars and trucks who have lived their lives in the “ rust belt” are bound to have some rust related issues by 8–10 years of age. This can affect brakes, external modules, just about anything that is exposed to road salt, which is highly corrosive. For example, a 10 year old Toyota Yaris up North, will surely have issues with ABS sensors, not a cheap fix. The same car in Arizona will not…..
No, because EU is not living in the real world, they are so obsessed by the Common Market they have created that their field of vision stops at the EU frontier. But International Trade is not like that. My own specialty used to be medicines and there is virtually nothing which cannot be sourced from elsewhere (in a few cases one might want to quality test each batch yourself, but this is of trivial importance if the ecquisition cost is halved.) My other main interest is motor cars and today I can hardly think of an everyday car which cannot be sourced more cheaply from Asia than from Germany, Italy, or France: the performance will be closely similar and the price one third less. Even among ‘quality’ brands Asia is superior. For example, my ‘retirement’ car is a Toyota Yaris automatic, now over ten years old, running and handling as well as when it was new, and looking ready for another ten years. There is no rust, the upholstery is still firm, it still changes gear firmly and smoothly. The only breakage in over ten years has been one spring (and you should see the uneven Lanes which pass for roads in Snowdonia. In a long life I have owned Volkswagens, BMWs, Volvos as well as what are amusingly called British Quality Cars — nothing has come even close to my little Yaris for reliability. So why would I be upset if EU applies what amounts to a surcharge to its vehicles.
I'd go with the yards it's a Toyota they hold their value better than most cars and there is a reason Toyota has a reputation for being reliable and they actually will back their products if you call the manufacturer instead of going through the dealership. I have a client who unfortunately ended up with a 2004 Tacoma that had the frame rust issue when he talked to the dealer they said too bad its already 16 years old but then he called the actual company and they had the dealership put a new frame in his truck free of charge. G k Scott is right I neglected to mention you should have it checked out by a mechanic before purchasing the vehicle
I think for a lot of fans it's like this. . The original series was our first car. It was a piece of crap in retrospect, like a 22 year old cavalier that barely ran. But like any first car you love it still until it dies. During the tos movie era it was like upgrading to a solid Honda civic with a lot less years, miles and rust on it. During the 90s it was like wed gone all in and got a real nice ride like a BMW x6 or something. Imagine dream car. During the early 2000s it starts running rough until it breaks down/enterprise gets cancelled. Your mechanic says an engine rebuild is in order, and between his schedule and the fact that parts have to be shipped from Europe and the labour involved it'll be almost a month to get running. You try transit to work but it's tedious, you need a car, freedom to move at your own schedule anything but waking up 2 hours early to walk to the bus stop. You don't have much money to spend so the cheap option you get is a Toyota yaris. It's way the hell better than nothing and it gets you from a to b. You're glad just to have wheels, even if they are underpowered and 6 foot 3 you barely fits in the driver's seat. As soon as that X6 is ready though you won't be able to ditch that yaris fast enough.. Translation, we want prime universe back. They did a good job recasting Kirk's crew. And the new movies are fun with lots of humor. I hate the new aesthetic of the universe. The ships look retarded(gimme the defiant or a sovereign or akira class any day) and the weapon effects are too star warsey. The big problem is Abrams tends to write himself into holes. If they now have transporters that can beam halfway across the galaxy and a frozen guy who's blood cures death, what problem can't they solve? A series in this universe will be out of the question due to lousy writing. They're fun but not real star trek. It's incredibly sad that Anton Yelchin died recently, but if it leads to beyond being the last of the reboot universe movies and a return to real trek(fingers crossed for the new show), I'll take it as one good thing to come out of a tragic event.
For any budget what you want to do is look at 3 main things. Brand. Sadly, not all makes are made equally. While people on here have mentioned certain brands as being bad or good(and I agree), I would say that unless you are a car enthusiast and want a specific car for the sake of having it, just buy a Toyota or a Honda. They are the best built and best selling car, and best of all they are usually taken care of pretty well, probably because the type of person that buys a Toyota is logical. Any other car brand is worse generally speaking. While there are some examples of cars that are as reliable as a Toyota/Honda(or Scion, Lexus, Acura- all made by Honda or Toyota), like a Mazda Miata, those are the exception. Anyone who argues this is simply deluding themselves. People have driven Toyota Yaris 200k miles and only replaced wheel bearings, which is absurd. I’m sure there is an amateur mechanic with a 500k mile F150 out there, but for the average person a Toyota or Honda is going to be the best bet, by far. The difference in quality is significant. Mileage. When I was budget buying cars I would look for cars with about 60–80k miles. Usually you can get a pretty good deal in that range and the car will be ok most of the time. When my classic Mazda Miata stopped being reliable, I bought a Yaris for about 10k with 38,000 miles (in an expensive state, so you might find a better deal). I saw deals for an equivalent Scion with like 90k miles for about 5k. Consider though that most maintenance happens between 40–100k miles for any given car, but if you have a Toyota this should not be a problem. Anything over 200k is generally a no go for me. While there are stories of 500k mile Camrys, you can usually find something with under 200k for the same price. Negotiate. Look up the blue book value of the car you are considering and negotiate the hell out of it with the dealer. I negotiated $2,500 off an $8,000 list once just by being savvy and remembering that the car salesman is not my friend. I passed on the car, but it shows you how much give they actually have. Margins are huge on used cars. Things to avoid / watchout for: Rust - look for rust under the car and in the wheel wells. It might seem obvious but a lot of people don’t do this. Rust is a deal breaker, and while it might not be common in your state, still look because it can ruin the car, or not allow it to pass state inspections. Older Toyota trucks(say 1990s or early 2000s) had rust problems, some will need total frame replacements. So watch out! Minivans - generally do not buy minivans. Most minivans, even Toyotas, develop transmission issues late in life. If you google most makes and models of minivans and add the word transmission you will find recalls, and forums filled with horror stories. If you have to buy one, lease it. Land Rovers / Range Rovers. I simply cannot stress enough to avoid Land Rovers. They are notoriously plagued with problems as they age. If you want a reliable used 4x4 that has a low range gearbox and is cheap to run(except gas obviously), just get a Sequoia or an old Land Cruiser you can get either for about 8–13k. I would look for a manual, diesel land cruiser personally but those are pretty hard to come by these days. Belt sounds. If the car is making belt sounds, or squeaking, it probably needs a new set, and you should use the squeaks as a bargaining chip. Replacing a belt is not the end of the world, but you shouldn’t have to pay for it buying a car used. Demand an additional $500 off list, or ask they do a warrantied repair. Loud muffler / exhaust leaks. Smell the back of the car when you test drive it. If you smell raw exhaust you may want to steer clear or negotiate the price down/ask for a warrantied repair. New exhaust systems installed can run up to $1000 or more, depending on the car.
Here are my thoughts, on getting as many trouble free miles out of a car or truck. For this thread, I am assuming you want something that will ( or should) only need routine maintenance- Hopefully, no major repairs- As others have stated, buy a base model, without alot of extra frills, and gadgets to break. I would look to spend 17 grand for a car, up to 28 grand for a truck. Use synthetic oil. Change it every 6 months, or 5000 miles. Whichever comes first. Follow all the other factory recomended maintenance schedules. If you have long life coolant, drain and fill every 3 years, regardless of miles. Don’t neglect transmission, especially if you tow. Buy a brand/ model, that has proven to be reliable. Consumer reports long term reliability is a good source, as is carcomplaints.com. I would say a reasonable payback on your investment, would be 10 years/150,000 miles. At that point, you then can determine if you want to keep it, or sell it. Rust issues in the Northern climates, tend to cause issues between 8–12 years. If you buy a Toyota Yaris for 17 grand, and keep it 10 years, lets assume total cost of ownership under $2 grand a year. Alot of people buy used cars, and end up paying more than that to keep them running. Although cars lose value, I still think people should look at a car purchase as a long term investment. I would not personally buy anything, without the expectation of keeping it 10 years, and factoring in the cost of that. Don’t be emotionally attached to it. If you buy a lemon, it’s time to reward another brand with your business. Too many people make excuses as to why their heap is burning oil, or had to have the trans replaced. Regardless of how many generations in your family have owned that brand, kick it to the curb! Loyalty needs to be earned.
My 1984 Pontiac Sunbird 5 Speed wagon was a great car, contrary to Consumer Reports magazine. If it wasn't for rust issues common to our region , it would have gone 300k miles. Not kilometers, miles. At 140k I sold the engine. It was A-1, used about 1/4 Quart of oil in 3000 miles and achieved 40 mpg. My '’best” car to date is my 2011 Toyota Yaris. At 167 k miles It still delivers 39 mpg at 75mph. Very few repairs and maintenence is cheap. I have replaced the front brakes once, the rears are due soon. I repair vehicles for a living. It is SO amazing to not have a “high maintenence" vehicle as a daily driver.
They rusted out so badly last time and at an alarming rate I doubt they will find many takers. I knew three brothers where one bought a Lada and another the Niva. The Lada had an A Frame rusted out by 5 years old and where it mounted was rusted so bad the car was junked. The Niva was always waiting long times for parts. As well it was junked before it was about 7 years old. There is no way with someone like Renault-Nissan as a partner that their quality can be trusted to be as good as that of the Corolla. The importer has to realize that Renault is a curse word here when it comes to cars. Their cars were taken off the market here as they were be hopelessly unreliable. As well, in their partnership with Nissan, Renault have dragged Nissan down nearly to Renault quality level. Nissan cars are not what they used to be since the Renault merger. Really, if they wanted to partner with someone it should have been Toyota, Mazda or Honda. Not Renault-Nissan being in the same field as FIAT and Mini for reliability. This writer feels that most people would rather by a 3 year old lease return Corolla than a new Russian car. Or even a Toyota Yaris. You may count me out as a prospective buyer. While not a professional with cars, this engineer once did an engine swap and another time pulled a head and to repair a blown head gasket. So I am no stranger to these matters either.
Bought my first toyota, a rusting tenth hand shed, but reliable. A tercel, grand little machine, until the cylinder head failed. Had seven if that model thereafter, changed to a corolla, low milage! Second hand! Then a yaris , three in fact, the last one lost the clutch, so we went for a urban cruiser, sub type based on the chassis and engine but with 4,x 4 facility,based on the yaris design .All in all excellent cars.
Yes, Toyota Yaris has Parking Camera, which are: 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5E, 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5G.
Here are the Boot Volume and variants of Toyota Yaris:
Variants | 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5E | 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5G | 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5J |
Boot Volume | 286 | 286 | 286 |
Yes, Toyota Yaris has Immobilizer, which are: 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5E, 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5G, 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5J.