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toyota yaris d Post Review
Life update: Today I purchased my first car, a 2019 Toyota Yaris! I want to thank my wonderful parents for helping me find a car that I’d be comfortable in and for helping me finance it. Excited to take this next step in my adult life and see where the roads take me. https://t.co/vvwuvbwTUg
#WRC D-1 #Marcus2Sweden : Toyota Yaris is waiting for the battle #RallySweden ➡️ https://t.co/QBxpDpxlhS https://t.co/aUArgheoVN
Driving the new Toyota Yaris Hybrid this week. Anything you’d like to know about it? https://t.co/FOUzLhFbRE
#TOYOTA YARIS 1.4 D-4D - 2016 - 91132 km. for more information visit https://t.co/cLnjf6LpYP https://t.co/cCzEcWZzAD
About to list my 2009 Toyota Yaris on DoneDeal for €3,500 – 143,000km, 2 owners, NCT until May, taxed until end March. Thought I'd see if anyone on Twitter is in the market for a new (old) car first... https://t.co/EsKwoQP9sq
I've been reading the reviews of the new Toyota Yaris GR and I definitely want!! If I could afford it it'd be at the top of the list which is crazy but the engineering that's went into it is seriously impressive ❤ https://t.co/PNU6XI8yDo
Today I try something I'm not used to draw: a #car I choose a #Toyota #yaris because I'd love to have one but shhhh #pixelart https://t.co/btxAUm0wKQ
Mud is expected in today stages, as the Toyota Yaris WRC cars of @SebOgier and Julien Ingrassia and @ElfynEvans and @scottmartinat using partial blockage of the rear fender vents at day 2 of @Rally_d_Italia #WRC #WRClive #WRCliveES #RallyItaly #RallyItaliaSardegna https://t.co/6X6r6BvA1q
@himimartin I’d like to add it’s a Toyota Yaris as well. https://t.co/DAXOdBbBNL
The family of missing Peter Geraty say they’re concerned for his welfare The 51-year-old was last seen at his home in Lucan, #Dublin at 5am today It’s understood he’s driving a green Toyota Yaris with a 99 D registration Gardaí have asked for the public’s help finding him https://t.co/rIaQBkBYfT
toyota yaris d Q&A Review
Why doesn't the Toyota Yaris sell well in India?
When Toyota entered India in 2000. They focused on MPV and D segment lines where other brands focused on hatchback & Sedan segment class and made strong presence on those segment. But Toyota arrived late in hatchback and sedan segment where others got strong presence on it. That's why they are struggling in those segments. In MPV, D segment and above Toyota vehicles are the clean winner. Eg: Even 15 year old qualis, has a better resale value. Coming to Yaris, city , verna and ciaz already dominated this segment. So it is tough to compete in this segment. In my opinion, city is the biggest challenge for yaris because if you see the other regions like APAC (city-vios) or in Middle East, (yaris - city) are the direct competitors. In terms of safety and long term reliability, resale value, these two are best and direct competitor.
Which car should you never buy used?
I will answer this differently. Used cars recommended in a given price range a) 2k - 4k USD Honda Civic Toyota Corolla Honda Fit Toyota Yaris Mitsubishi Mirage Kia Rio b) 4k - 8k USD Honda Accord Toyota Camry Mazda 3 Kia Rio c) 8k - 10k USD Honda Accord Toyota Camry Lexus ES Honda Civic Toyota Corolla Mazda CX3 Kia Rio Honda Fit d) 10k-15k USD Honda Accord Toyota Camry Mazda CX5 Honda CRV Toyota RAV4 Hyundai Sonata Subaru Crosstrek Toyota Prius Mazda MX 5 Subaru BRZ / Toyota 86 Lexus ES Lexus RX Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
What makes Toyota Yaris so special?
Price of D segment sedan for a modified/safetyfied ( there is term like that , just ) B segment Sedan. This is what makes Yaris so special !!!!.
Can I get a fully-automatic car to upshift earlier? I was driving a Toyota Yaris (automatic) & it kept revving high long before changing gear. It was a pain accelerating to 100kph from stops. How do I upshift quicker (I’m usually used to manuals)?
I wrote the following in my ,answer to What burns more gas, accelerating as fast as possible to 60 mph (e.g. 10 seconds) or accelerating slowly (e.g. 30 seconds)?, (check it, there also a graph for a Toyota Yaris II D4D - but manual) With automatics, accelerating frankly in “D” somewhere around 2/3 engine load until the desired speed is attained should provide a good fuel economy, with upshifts at reasonably low revs. They are programmed with an hysteresis delaying upshifts (and downshifts too) to avoid ceaseless up and down shifts when the conditions remain borderline. With older 3 and 4-ratios automatics, it was possible to elude that hysteresis by slightly releasing the accelerator to force an upshift and then pressing the throttle more again as soon as the upshift had been done. But with 6 or more ratios it becomes difficult because the transmission will then immediately downshift 1 or 2 ratios when the throttle is depressed a little more. Diagram of upshifts and downshifts lines according to car speed and engine load In principle, an automatic transmission should shift at the most appropriate time so that fuel consumption is minimal for the requested power. But in order to avoid incessant shifts when the vehicle speed and the engine load are close to the ideal point for this shift, hysteresis is essential. That is, the shifts are delayed from the optimal to obtain a crossover range. For example, in the above graph, if the vehicle is traveling at 90 km/h in 6th with 30% engine load (in the area under the bold purple line), a downshift from 6th to 5th will only occur if the throttle is depressed until the engine is loaded at least 80%. If its load exceeds 94%, a downshift in 4th will even take place. For a shift back to 6th, the load will have to be reduced below 43%. Note: ,Avoid the “S” (for “Sport”) program. It keeps the engine at higher revs and provides no advantages, only the drawbacks of increased fuel consumption and noise. If we need engine braking or if we want to drive very fast on a winding road, it’s better to shift manually using the paddle shifters or main shifter.
Why aren’t Japanese cars popular in Europe?
They don’t do a good R&D on European tastes, or they don’t care much about tastes altogether. The result is angular, sci-fi space age cars, plasticky inside, with cockpits one can’t navigate instinctively. And such cars often look like they’ve been made for N. American market. Koreans on other hand, have both R&D and production in Europe for some models and they also hire European designers who worked in European car companies before. So, they specifically design cars for European market. The result is Toyota Yaris looking out of this world, in a bad way, while Hyundai i20 is a spot on design. Or Honda Civic on one hand and Kia Ceed on another. Both nations are renown for making durable, reliable cars, that break rarely, are easy to fix and parts are cheap and available. But on the other hand, they both fail in performance department - lifeless steering wheel feel, jerky gearshifts, poor engine choices, etc. But their buyers are more concerned about reliability and low cost I think.
What are some best sedan cars in India that you can suggest me in the price brackets of 10-15 lakhs? Can you also highlight pros and cons of these cars when compared with each other?
Between 10-15 lakhs, every company sells one sedan. Your options include: Honda City Maruti Ciaz Toyota Yaris Hyundai Verna Volkswagen Vento As you know, there is no car which can be termed as absolute best among them. Each car has it's merits and demerits. I shall be mentioning a few for each. Decide for yourself according to your need. Maruti Ciaz: ,Pros: a) . Superb mileage, esp in the mild hybrid one. b) Cheapest and lowest maintenance in the short term. c) Good resale value,. Cons: a) Body not sturdy b) Engine underpowered c) Interiors are OK but not great. 2. ,Honda City: ,Pros: a) Segment leader with great overall package. b) Excellent engine. c) Big boot. d) Good resale value Cons: a) Costly to maintain in long run b) Recent updates are not so exciting c) The newer model looks slightly claustrophobic with respect to the older city( subjective) . 3. Hyundai Verna: ,Pros: a) Most feature rich b) Superb interior c) 1.6 L petrol model adequately powered. Cons: a) Relatively smaller boot, b) Poor mileage of the petrol variants c) Higher maintenance. 4. Toyota Yaris: ,Pros a) Safest among the vehicles with 5 star NCAP & seven airbags as standard. b) Adequately spaced c) Excellent front & back seat comfort d) Durable & low maintenence in the long run. e) Superb and efficient city car with much refined 1.5 L engine. Cons: a) Interior somewhat ordinary b) Higher priced c) Less features than Maruti & Hyundai D) Only petrol variant available. 5. VW Vento: ,Pros a) Superbly built b) Fun to drive c) Excellent overall performance d) Superb safety features with 5 star NCAP rating e) DSG automatic variant available. Cons: a) Costly to own and maintain b) Exterior is unimpressive c) Sales figures are poor d) Being a performance car, more chances of parts failure in the long run. My two Cents,: If mileage and cheap ownership is your primary goal, go for ciaz. If you wish to shell out more but can't compromise on safety and performance, Vento should be your choice. If you wish to have a long term peace of mind with superb comfort and safety features look for Yaris. If you wish to drive a tested all rounder, choose between City and Verna.
Why don’t English speakers pronounce clearly the word "would"?
Stressing auxiliary verbs can change the meaning or implication of a sentence. Like many “grammar” words would has both a stressed and unstressed form and is usually contracted, e.g. If I had loads of money, I’d buy a Ferrari ,- the usual form in conversation, with the unstressed form reduced to /d/. If I had loads of money, I would buy a Ferrari ,- this has more stress on the “would” and is a more emphatic assertion. For example, it suggests that you are trying to remove any doubt in the listener’s mind that you really would do that, e.g. “I don’t believe you’d ever get a Ferrari, even if you had the money. You’re more of a Toyota Yaris kind of person”. “If I had the money, I WOULD get a Ferrari”. English is heavily stress timed so normally only the more important content words are stressed and the function words that go between them are “squashed” to maintain the rhythm. Since English has a relatively inflexible word order, stress - indicated by loudness and changes in pitch - is the main way to convey emphasis in speech. In writing, we often have to resort to i,talics, to show this. EFor these reasons, even words that aren’t contracted lke “can” or “the” have unstressed forms that are differentiated by pronunciation, e.g. can /cæn/ (stressed) versus /cən/ (unstressed) the /ðɪː/ (stressed) versus /ðə/ (unstressed) Because these words are normally unstressed, stressing them is a deliberate communicative act by the speaker when they want to emphasise something. I teach Spanish speaking students and, Spanish being a syllable timed language with much flatter intonation and no schwa sound, they tend to use the stressed forms all the time with little indication of sentence level stress in their speech, even at higher levels. In extreme cases, it actually makes listening to some individuals very tiring - your brain is always trying to pick out the emphasised words so you can build up a mental reprsentation of the sentence and understand what the speaker is getting at. Without clear differentiations between stressed/unstressed words, this is much harder. Some learners, think that using contractions or unstressed forms is somehow “bad” English because they sound less “clear” but this is basically because they don’t understand how sentence-stress functions in English (to be fair this is often not given much emphasis in classes). In reality it’s the opposite - “good” speakers don’t pronounce words like “would” clearly and when they do, it’s for a reason.
What is the most fuel efficient car you have ever driven?
It was a Suzuki Baleno. I drove it all week. Wow the MPG on this thing is incredible. I’ve driven 150 miles and the fuel gauge has only gone down one bar. 50 miles later still one bar used. It then conked out. The fuel gauge was broken :D Non Joke answer. A VVT auto box 1.8 litre Toyota Yaris. I was going to Hilbaldstow to sky dive. I drove it like a granny on the motorway at 45mph. It gave me 63MPG (UK gallons 4.54 litres).
What burns more gas, accelerating as fast as possible to 60 mph (e.g. 10 seconds) or accelerating slowly (e.g. 30 seconds)?
In addition to the many rightful answers saying that the best fuel economy is attained by accelerating at high engine load (near full throttle), but at low revs in order to be able to up-shift to higher gears as soon as possible, here are some graphs showing it. The above one is for a Toyota Yaris II D4D. The red lines show the way to obtain maximum acceleration, such as in racing or to clock the lowest possible time up to a given speed. The aim is to keep the engine as near as possible to its max power revs. Launch from rest is done at engine max torque by slipping the clutch — or the wheels if possible, but unlikely with this Yaris — up to about 16 km/h. Upshifts are performed around 4500 rpm — from 1st to 2nd at 40 km/h, 2nd to 3th at 74 km/h, etc. The green lines show how to accelerate frankly but in an fuel economical way, between 2/3 engine load and full engine load, aka 2/3 to full throttle. Up-shift to 2nd is done as soon as possible at about 16 km/h, and the engine is somewhat accelerated simultaneously along the vehicle throughout the gearshifts. (This is more important to save fuel on a loaded heavy truck with 12 or 16 gears because you don’t want to waste energy in letting the crankgear and flywheel slow down and re-accelerate it too much several times). Below is the BSFC map of a Mercedes 350 CGI. You want to stay in the green areas for the lowest specific fuel consumption and the sweet spot for this specific but typical gasoline engine is 235 g/kW.h between 1900 rpm and 2700 rpm at 75% load. If we accelerate slowly at very low engine load, the fuel consumption is in the red areas at more than 320 g/kW.h. And below is the BSFC map of a VW Golf VI 2.0 TDI. The hyperbolas of various colors are the iso-power lines. For example, if 40 hp (light blue line) are requested, they’ll be obtained with the best fuel efficiency between 1300 rpm and 1800 rpm at about 215 g/kW.h. Great fuel efficiency, but it might be somewhat altered now after the reprogramming due to the emissions scandal! Moe Incanto and Peter David Hill have posted the nice BSFC map for a 1.9 liter Saturn, also with iso-power hyperbolas. UPDATE: automatic transmissions The above is mostly for manual transmissions and I forgot to write about automatics. With them, accelerating frankly in “D” somewhere around 2/3 engine load until the desired speed is attained should provide a good fuel economy, with upshifts at reasonably low revs. They are programmed with an hysteresis delaying upshifts (and downshifts too) to avoid ceaseless up and down shifts when the conditions remain borderline. With older 3 and 4-ratios automatics, it was possible to elude that hysteresis by slightly releasing the accelerator to force an upshift and then pressing the throttle more again as soon as the upshift had been done. But with 6 or more ratios it becomes difficult because the transmission will then immediately downshift 1 or 2 ratios when the throttle is depressed a little more again. In principle, an automatic transmission should shift at the most appropriate time so that the consumption is minimal for the requested power. But in order to avoid incessant shifts when the vehicle speed and the engine load are close to the ideal point for this shift, hysteresis is essential. That is, the shifts are delayed from the optimal to obtain a crossover range. For example, in the above graph, if the vehicle is traveling at 90 km/h in 6th with 30% engine load (in the area under the bold purple line), a downshift from 6th to 5th will only occur if the throttle is depressed until the engine is loaded at least 80%. If its load exceeds 94%, a downshift in 4th will even take place. For a shift back to 6th, the load will have to be reduced below 43%. Note: ,Avoid the “S” (for “Sport”) program. It keeps the engine at higher revs and provides no advantages, only the drawbacks of increased fuel consumption and noise. If we need engine braking or if we want to drive very fast on a winding road, it’s better to shift manually using the paddle shifters or main shifter.
toyota yaris d Related FAQs
Is Toyota Yaris available in Steering Tilt?
Yes, Toyota Yaris is available in Steering Tilt. The available Steering Tilt variants are: 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5E, 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5G, 2019 Toyota Yaris 1.5J.
Does Toyota Yaris has Collision Warning?
No, Toyota Yaris doesn't have Collision Warning.
How much is the Toyota Yaris?
The 2021 Toyota Yaris has three variants:
1.5 J (AT) - RM 73,000
1.5 E (AT) - RM 82,500
1.5 G (AT) - RM 87,000
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