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crankshaft racing spirit Q&A Review
Why don't electric cars use gearboxes?
They do, but generally only as a simple fixed-ratio reduction system. The simplest explanation is that, with modern brushless AC motors and sophisticated high-current drive electronics, they just don’t need them; they can more than easily produce enough torque at low speeds to exceed their tyres’ grip on the road, even whilst geared to run up to 120mph or more within their motor’s safe rev limits. Electric motors, particularly of this type, don’t have any real minimum running speed, so the only reason they’d need a “low” gear would be to multiply their starting torque, should it otherwise be insufficient for a fast getaway or for starting on a steep hill. That’s clearly no longer an issue, when yer typical Tesla is fighting the traction control all the way up to about 60mph, and a more everyday Nissan Leaf can still happily stay in contention with other cars of its class, with any slight handicap in instantaneous torque at the outer edges of performance being compensated for by not suffering the delay of revving up the engine before the clutch or torque converter is engaged to get a similarly hard start in its conventional rivals. They also have a much higher maximum rev limit than a typical piston-driven ICE (outside of motorcycle or F1 race engines, anyway), because the only moving part is the main rotor and the wires wrapped around it, rather than reciprocating pistons, valves, crankshafts etc, and don’t suffer anything like the same loss of efficiency at high rpms, so that fixed gear can be a relatively low one - say, equivalent to somewhere between second and third gear of a typical gasoline internal combustion car. Meaning for similar off the line acceleration you “only” need to produce about twice the (crank)shaft torque of a gas engine, or about the same as a latterday turbodiesel - or maybe just a little more to compensate for the multiplication they enjoy from the torque converter, or by dumping energy accumulated in the flywheel into the clutch - which isn’t really really too much of a challenge. It wasn’t always thus, hence the original early form of the Tesla Roadster having a rather harsh-shifting dog-clutch 2-speed which let you pick between a “sprint” low gear (good for about 65mph, but with improved torque for fast starts and spirited driving on twisty roads) and a “cruise” high gear (which would take you to about 125mph, but might feel a little sluggish - say, about the same as a base spec MX5/Miata, albeit one always being started in 2nd gear - at lower speeds), and a lot of older skool homebrew electric conversions retaining the original manual gearbox, which the driver would typically just leave in the one gear unless a need arose to change up (for greater speed within the motor limits) or down (for better acceleration and hill climbing) - in contrast to the usual regime with an ICE where you typically change up to reduce the noise and fuel consumption even if it’s not strictly essential, and down to improve engine braking or prevent stalls - and rarely bothering with anything higher than third. Dissatisfaction with the performance of that gearbox, its extra weight/cost/complication, and the need to include it in the first place, is something that directly drove Tesla’s motor development and the state of the art in automotive electric traction in general, and has brought us to the modern day where the presence of the fixed-ratio gearbox is mostly just to reduce the amount of torque that the motor shaft and frame mounts have to deal with at full “throttle”, thus allowing use of thinner and lighter components which would otherwise, in a direct-drive setup, have to be extremely sturdy - thus bulky, heavy, and expensive - to withstand the huge torques (ie, twisting forces) the otherwise ordinary power output would demand at low speeds.
How do I make my engine more reliable? I’m looking to start hillclimb events in a Mitsubishi Lancer (not an Evo) and was wondering what parts I could modify to make sure it can handle the abuse.
“How do I make my engine more reliable? I’m looking to start hillclimb events in a Mitsubishi Lancer (not an Evo) and was wondering what parts I could modify to make sure it can handle the abuse.” If I were building an engine for reliability, primarily, I’d be ensuring it had a forged steel crankshaft, forged steel connecting rods, forged aluminum pistons that produce around 10.5:1 compression (late model Lancer 1.8L engines feature 10.7:1) or lower (if I’m using pump gas … if race gas, you could certainly go higher … unless you’re going to run a turbo, in which case I’d keep compression down around 9.0:1). I’d use a set of quality piston rings and bearings, a high-quality high-volume oil pump, stainless steel valves, fresh valve springs from a reputable producer, steel valve retainers and keepers, multi-layer steel head gaskets, high-quality ARP engine fasteners — especially for the main studs, connecting rods, and head studs. If the engine uses pushrods, I’d go up a size on the diameter of those, and I’d run rocker arms with roller tips and fulcrums mounted to ARP rocker studs or quality rocker shafts secured by ARP bolts. For cam-in-block engines, a double-roller timing chain and steel gearset would be used … again, with ARP fasteners. The reciprocating assembly — crank, rods, pistons, pins, rings, rod bolts, bearing shells — should all be blueprinted and balanced along with the vibration damper and flywheel/flexplate. Those are most of the “hard parts.” Reliability can also refer to the items that keep the engine running, day after day — spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coils, fuel pumps, fuel filters, fuel injectors, fuel lines, etc. All of these should be high-quality, brand-name components that should last. Companies that don’t put their name on anything have nothing to lose if the part fails in your engine. And then there’s the oil. I only run full-synthetic oil in any of my high-performance vehicles. Full synthetic is better at dealing with the high heat generated during “spirited” driving. It also provides better lubrication, sealing, and cleaning properties. I’d run an oversized oil filter — or two — and a good sized oil cooler, as well, to keep the oil at a reasonable temperature. You didn’t ask about transmissions or axle assemblies, but those should also get full synthetic fluid and, if possible, external coolers — especially on automatic transmissions, for which transmission fluid temperature is critical. Every 10 degrees that you reduce automatic transmission fluid temperature will double the life of your transmission. The cooling system should also be upgraded to ensure it’s capable of keeping the engine operating temperature in check, even during competition. A heavy-duty water pump (if available) is desirable … possibly an electric one, which can be allowed to continue running even after you shut the engine off, to minimize hot spots within the engine after a run. New, heavy-duty, silicone-based radiator and heater hoses and high-quality clamps should be considered a minimum; a better option for competition would be AN-style fittings with heavy-duty braided steel hoses. A heavy duty radiator with a pair of electric fans that can be programmed to run in series — with the second fan coming on if or when needed when the first isn’t sufficient — should keep things cool. Oh, and most racing bodies specify water only or water with an additive that will lower the freezing point somewhat without the risk of making the course slippery if you happen to blow a hose or other component during competition. Lastly, a good quality air filter assembly will keep dirt and dust out of the engine, which can promote long engine life … along with regular oil changes. Again, if reliability is the primary goal, I would not build the engine for maximum power. The more you stress components, the shorter they’ll last. Rather than try to make 400 horsepower with your Lancer engine, a more modest 300 hp would enable an engine with components like those described above to last almost indefinitely. Since hill climb competition tends to favor turbocharged vehicles, because it helps reduce power loss at higher altitudes where air is thinner, a professionally and properly-built engine with components like those described above a running something around 9.0:1 (static) compression and a modest tune should let you run around 300 hp all day, every day, which would be more than double the output of the latest factory engine and about a 50 hp bump over an Evo engine. If you’ve got a manual transmission, you’ll need a high-quality performance/racing flywheel and clutch assembly. You should also replace any CV (constant-velocity) or u-joints to ensure they’ll last as long as possible. Slotted and vented brake rotors with upgraded pads would also be wise, and you should plan on draining and replacing your brake fluid with synthetic DOT3 or DOT4 (not DOT 5 if you drive the car on the street) after every competition, due to the heat to which it will be subjected during competition. (All vehicle fluids should be changed after each event: engine oil, transmission fluid, axle fluid, and coolant.) If all this sounds expensive and time consuming, that’s because it is. There’s a reason why they say “Speed costs. How fast can you afford?” I hope this information is interesting and helpful. Good luck with your Lancer!
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