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Steering mounted paddle shifters (Frame 1) OR Column mounted paddle shifters (Frame 2) What is your preference? https://t.co/Js1vs1VNZF

Upgraded 2020 spec Turn 488 GTE Sim Wheel - Upgrades include funky switch by left thumb, better more reliable PCB, aluminum rear enclosure and aluminum shifters with CF shifter paddles! https://t.co/VeuKkbB0dU

Turn Paddle Shifters now available!! Going to be adding new carbon fiber paddles soon. https://t.co/BVSodhQrCu https://t.co/LpO0WLbJUy

Y'all come get this Baby 😍😍 Subaru Outback 2010 Model || 2500cc || Auto || Smart Start || Sunroof || Rear Camera || Alloys || Paddle Shifters || Leather Seats || Rear Ac || Bluetooth Connectivity || Radio / DVD Player. Price: Ksh 1,250,000 https://t.co/sPdVG8GIvr

Toyota Vanguard 2013 5 seater 2400cc Cruise control Paddle shifters DAC Price 2.45M Call 0787667788 https://t.co/niEEt5sHH8

Show me your paddle shifters 😅 https://t.co/hUKvZ6aFT7

2017 Honda Accord Sport, Special Edition Newly imported LHD 2.4L Leather Interior Reverse Camera Paddle Shifters https://t.co/p9VIx1tJn1

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Paddle shifters?? LMAOOOO https://t.co/Jsv8eSq5DD

6.5-liter V12 engine mated to a 7-speed a ISR transmission (automatic with paddle shifters). /2019 / https://t.co/Gk7zx5gZO8

paddle shifters pics Q&A Review

Which is the best SUV for India?

Category 1: 1) Maruti Suzuki Alto 800/K10 Pros- Good Service, Low cost Maintenance, Parts Easily Available, Best Aftersell Value Cons- No improvement in looks Maruti Alto 800 : Official Review - Team-BHP Maruti Alto K10 : Official Review - Team-BHP 2), ,Renault Kwid 800/1000cc Pros- Good Service, New Look and awesome graphics and more features compairing to Alto, Low Cost Maintanence but > Maruti Suzuki Alto Cons- Not very good resell value like Alto, Sound is more and after getting older creates some problems (as my experience). Sold only because of looks and features. Renault Kwid : Official Review - Team-BHP 3) Datson Redi Go,- Price is lower than Alto, Low price but not a good competitor, Nothing to Compare with other rivals, Cost Cutting by dropping build quality, Skinny tires (155mm), Can't get good resell value. Datsun Redi-GO 1.0L : Official Review - Team-BHP 4) Tata Nano-, Don't know why tata have made. Not a successful car. Creates problem when it gets old. Low resell value. Tata Nano AMT (Automatic) : Official Review - Team-BHP 5) Hyundai Eon-, Good looking car with best in class interior quality, Good after sale service too. But vibration issue, Price is too closer to 4 cylinders hatchback including Santro. Hyundai Eon : Review Category 1 (Higher End) : 1)Hyundai Santro,- Good Car with Good Reputation, Recently launched, Check the reviews on youtube and other websites. 2018 Hyundai Santro review, test drive 2)Tata Tiago,- Very good car. Little expensive than the above car. Everything is good but Tata resell value is gamble. No sign of cost cutting. Car is very good but only 3 cylinder in petrol. Tata Tiago : Official Review - Team-BHP Category 2 : 1)Maruti Suzuki Nexa Ignis(1.2l), - Pros- Beautiful look from front, Nexa Service, Good Resell value, Safety rating is also good. Some people don’t like is its design and rear look. Width is also not good. You can go for Grand i10 and even for Baleno because its pricing is not good. Maruti Ignis : Official Review - Team-BHP 2)Hyundai i10/Grand i10,- Good Car, Very Popular as it is old and great competitor of Maruti Swift. Interiors have ,best-in-class, fit, finish & quality.Both variant have 1.2l engine. Space might be an issue.Missing Climate Control feature. Cheaper than its rival Swift. Hyundai Grand i10 : Official Review - Team-BHP 3) Maruti Suzuki Swift- ,Most Popular car at this price segment. 2018 model looks good but more spacious & comfortable Baleno is priced not too far away. Great service and resell value. Maruti Swift : Official Review - Team-BHP 4) Tata Tigor-, Good Car from Tata. Spacy but width is less and good looking. Good Service but 6 months service period. Good Power as compare to Baleno but 3 Cylinder. Amazing 8-speaker ,Harman, entertainment system. I,t has two driving modes feature., Resell value is gamble. Tata Tigor : Official Review - Team-BHP Category 3: 1)Maruti Suzuki Swift Desire-, Good car. Looks awesome. No1 compact sadan. Little pricey. Maruti Dzire : Official Review - Team-BHP 2)Maruti Suzuki Nexa Baleno-, Awesome car. no1 hatchback.Best selling. Every thing is awesome as you get nexa service. Weight is little less. Interior plastic is not very high end. Comfortable riding experience. Very Spacious, Maruti Baleno : Official Review - Team-BHP 3)Hyundai i20 elite/active-, Very good car.No2 best selling hatchback.Every thing is fine but little expensive than the baleno. Elite-, Rear wiper only on the top Asta trim! No fuel-efficiency indicator, auto-locking doors or height-adjustable seatbelts on any variant. Mediocre highway performance for a premium hatchback. But loaded with features & gizmos (16" rims, keyless entry & go, 8-speaker stereo, rake & reach steering, rear air-con, reversing cam, cooled glovebox and lots more) Hyundai Elite i20 : Official Review - Team-BHP Active-, On-road price is over a lakh more than the equivalent Elite i20 variants. Petrol unavailable in the top SX trim (no passenger-side Airbag, rear wash / wipe, splitting rear seat etc.) Good ground clearance, Everything is fine. Hyundai i20 Active: A Close Look - Team-BHP 4)Ford Figo Aspire,- Another sadan. Good car. Lighter Build Quality. Commuter 1.2L petrol is unimpressive. A mediocre engine. Ford Aspire : Official Review - Team-BHP 5)Tata Zest-, Very good car. India's first diesel-automatic in the C1 segment. Affordable, convenient & low running costs. Everything is fine but Poor in-cabin storage & missing niceties (rear seat armrest, dead pedal, seatbelt height adjustment). Resell is gamble. Tata Zest : Official Review - Team-BHP 6)Honda Jazz-, Good car from honda. Big 354 liter boot is the segment best. ,Magic seats,bring tons of flexibility(only in higher varient). Features such as feather-touch climate control, reversing camera, touchscreen ICE, paddle shifters (CVT) & more. Skinny 175 mm tyres. All competitors offer thicker rubber (Elite i20 = 195 mm). Missing goodies (steering reach adjustment, keyless entry & go, rear air-con vents, driver armrest & proper dead pedal). Resale value is gamble. Honda Jazz : Official Review - Team-BHP Note:- Resell value depends on your luck. And all pics are of top variant. Thanks if you like my answer then give a upvote

Would you buy a BMW 3 Series or a Mercedes C-Class, if they cost 2.5 times as much as a Corolla?

i would buy the BMW. even though it costs a bit more, i value driving a car that gets me more than just A to point B. bmw is know for their 1.)handling , 2)looks, and 3) functionality. drive one on a curvy road when there's no other motorists at a “safe” 70mph and you'll see. i am tired of getting compliments of how “sick” or “clean” my 2008 coupe is. i nervously chuckle and say “yeah but she's old as f***” i love how detail oriented they were when the made the interior. not a square inch of surface area is made of sh** plastic that toyota or ford uses. bmw opted to subtlety but beautifully give my car a nice wood (fake wood, but nice fake wood) accent on the dash and around the controls. the control dials have grippy rubber coating which is nice if you happened to get your hands wet on a rainy day. i know i sound like a bmw fanboy but unfortunately after driving one for two years i shiver at the thought of permanately driving a different vehicle. ultimately i would test drive all your options and see what makes you happier. life's too short to not splurge on good things, responsibly of course. i see a lot of used bmws for sale that there's some pics of my car, i apologize in advance if it's dirty. i love my check engine light, my friend lost my gas cap on a trip to the beach and it's been on since. my car isn't too bad on the sand as long as i keep momentum. anyways on a serious note take a look at what your purposes are behind your vehicle purchase. are you really going to appreciate a finer tuned suspension? or would you be happy putting along at a legal speed. do you want to look at your car and say “wow i'm glad i worked so hard to get this premium driving machine with paddle shifters” or would you rather say “gee i sure love how economical my toyota is” i made my car purchase based on what i valued and i happen to value materialistic things like heated seats and premium sound systems. and i happened to be able to afford it. there are great deals online for used bmws but be smart about your purchase and get what you value and check car fax etc. there's nothing wrong with picking a vehicle that only gets you from point A to B , but also you don't want to miss out on experiencing new things. i plan on driving my car to 1 million miles, i'm at a 100k right now but i will post when i reach a million.

What is the difference between CVT, VVT and VTEC?

you may get your answer here: CVT A ,continuously variable transmission,, or CVT, is a type of automatic transmission that provides more useable power, better fuel economy and a smoother driving experience than a traditional automatic transmission. Advantages of the CVT Engines do not develop constant power at all speeds; they have specific speeds where torque (pulling power), horsepower (speed power) or fuel efficiency are at their highest levels. Because there are no gears to tie a given road speed directly to a given engine speed, the CVT can vary the engine speed as needed to access maximum power as well as maximum fuel efficiency. This allows the CVT to provide quicker acceleration than a conventional automatic or manual transmission while delivering superior fuel economy. Disadvantages of the CVT The CVT's biggest problem has been user acceptance. Because the CVT allows the engine to rev at any speed, the noises coming from under the hood sound odd to ears accustomed to conventional manual and automatic transmissions. The gradual changes in engine note sound like a sliding transmission or a slipping clutch -- signs of trouble with a conventional transmission, but perfectly normal for a CVT. Flooring an automatic car brings a lurch and a sudden burst of power, whereas CVTs provide a smooth, rapid increase to maximum power. To some drivers this makes the car feel slower; in fact a CVT will generally out-accelerate an automatic. Automakers have gone to great lengths to make the CVT feel more like a conventional transmission. Many CVTs are programmed to simulate the "kick-down" feel of a regular automatic when the pedal is floored. Some CVTs offer a "manual" mode with steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters that allows the CVT to simulate a conventional stepped transmission. Because early automotive CVTs were limited as to how much horsepower they could handle, there has been some concern about the long-term reliability of the CVT. Advanced technology has made the CVT much more robust. Nissan has more than a million CVTs in service around the world and says their long-term reliability is comparable to conventional transmissions. VARIABLE VALVE TIMING Time to confuse and educate you further now, because the concept of a static or single-mode combustion engine is a little out of date in today's world. Because of the nature of fuel injection, carburators, the 4-stroke cycle and valves, the internal combustion engine only really works really well at one particular range of speeds. Any higher or lower and you start to cock up fuel efficiency, reliability and power. To overcome this issue, and to try to make engines more usable throughout their rev ranges, manufacturers invented various different types of variable valve timing. The idea is simple - alter the timing and/or size of the intake and exhaust ports at different engine RPM’s to ensure that the engine is as efficient as possible throughout it's range of operating speeds. Thanks to a day of piss-poor weather and a lot of spare time on my part, I now bring you an explanation of some of the range of variable valve timing methodologies and how they work. I'm not going to go into all the different variations, combinations and permutations because there are so many now. However, a top-level overview ought to tell you what you need to know. So without further delay: HONDA VTEC VTEC stands for Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control. Not sure why it isn't VVTEC other than it would look like a typo, but there is another variation called i-VTEC, meaning Intelligent-VTEC. The basic functionality of VTEC is surprisingly simple, and hence well-used and very reliable. In its simplest form, VTEC allows the valves to remain open for two different durations. A short opening time for low-speed operation to give good torque and acceleration, and a larger opening time for higher speeds to give more power. To do this, the camshaft has two sets of cam lobes for each valve and a sliding locking pin on the cam follower that determines which lobe is operating the valve. The locking pin is moved by a hydraulic control valve based on the engine speed and power delivery requirements. The two lobe shapes are referred to as fuel economy cams and high power cams, meaning that Honda engines with this technology are really two engines in one - a performance engine and an economical engine. The two animations below show a pair of cam lobes and followers to demonstrate the fundamental operation of VTEC. The left animation is fuel economy mode - the blue locking pin is not engaged so the two followers run on their respective cam lobes independently. The yellow one is the main cam follower which pushes on the valve. On the right, in power mode, the blue locking pin is engaged so now the red cam follower is locked to the yellow one which, now being driven by the red one, no longer contacts the lower profile cam lobe. Because the red follower is running on a higher profile cam lobe, it now forces the valve to stay open longer. A Comparison of the Toyota VVT system Vs the Honda V-TEC On this page I talk about the two different methods used to increase the power output, and what's good and bad about them. What the two systems are, and why they are used By using a conventional valve system, to keep a modern multi-valve engine usable for the road, you are limited to about 85hp to 90hp per litre. You can use a bigger camshaft quite easily get a lot more power, but only at higher revs, and at the expense of power at lower revs. So, with a bit of lateral thinking, it is now becoming more common to be able to change that very cam timing that limited the engine power ,while the engine is running,. The Toyota VVT system isn't new, however, as similar systems have been in use for many decades before. But not for a mass production engine and certainly not with the highly accurate control of the modern engine management systems. The Honda V-Tec system is a relative new comer, and by using a system of far greater complexity than that used by Toyota, Honda is now making an engine that produces as much power as many of the better racing engines! So lets have a look at each system, and how they work ... Toyota Variable Valve Timing system, or VVT & VVT-i The VVT-type system has been around and in use by various companies for at least 40 years that I know of. (I can remember seeing a 1960's catalogue from the US that showed a special cam wheel that bolted onto a small block Ford engine's cam, and it had a mechanism that worked like a mechanical advance system in a distributor, so that as the revs picked up it advanced the cam timing. I also believe that Alfa Romeo or Fiat used a similar system back around then, or maybe before) VVT is simple and fairly effective. It consists of only two main parts; an 'oil control solenoid' and the VVT mechanism itself. This diagram shows a few more bits & pieces, but you can clearly see the main two - the VVT pulley and the OCV. (Oil Control Valve, or oil solenoid as it's often called.) The early VVT system was relatively simple, ie, at a specific rpm (~4400rpm on the 20 valve 4AGE's) the computer signals the OCV to open, this lets oil pressure go through a special gallery in the #1 inlet cam bearing, through the centre of the inlet cam to the VVT pulley. There's a small piston in the VVT pulley, and once it gets enough pressure behind it, it starts to move outwards, causing the outer part of the pulley to turn in relation to the inner part, due to the helical spline that guides the piston's fore & aft movement. Closer view & cutaway of the VVT controller So, when the computer signals for the VVT to operate, the OCV opens and thus causes the VVT pulley to advance the inlet cam timing by 30°, reference the crankshaft. (15° on the pulley itself) The rpm at which this happens is worked out by running the engine on a dynamometer with the inlet cam in both the fully advanced and fully retarded positions. Since the two different cam timing's will make different power throughout the rev range, (advanced inlet give more top end power at the expense of low end power, and vice-versa) there is a point where the power will be identical for both cam settings, and this is where the VVT is programmed to operate. Because the power output is the same with the VVT in either position, you can't feel anything when it happens. You ,can,, however, hear a change in engine note, just before there's a big increase in power! More detail on the the VVT logic - The VVT comes in three types for the 20 valve. To the best of my knowledge, silvertop 20v's pre May 1993 have the VVT actuate at about 4400rpm. Post May 1993 they seem to work on throttle position and ignore revs. The blacktops seem to work like this, as described on Club4AG - 1. Starting. When you crank the starter there will be VVT operation until the engine fires up, obviously to allow more air into the engine to allow an easier fire up. 2. Coolant temp. There is absolutely NO VVT operation when the coolant tempt is below 50°C except for that brief moment when you operate the starter. Reason obvious, who want to stress a cold engine. 3. Engine rpm. VVT will operate in any rpm between the range of 1500 and 7200 when the inlet manifold pressure is right. The min and max range can be a little out because I was reading from the car tacho. Trust me they are very close. 4. Engine load/inlet manifold pressure. This seems to be the single most important parameter controling the system. The VVT will NOT operate if the inlet manifold has more than about 5 inches of vacuum (can't get the exact reading because everything happen so fast. It's very close.). This is very close to zero vacuum which is atmospheric and that is about the maximum load the map sensor will read to tell the engine in an NA car. As you can figure out the throttle will usually be in the more than 3/4 position for this to happen. 5. VVT will work without the speed sensor. Now, back to the above schematic of the VVT. It shows the second evolution of the VVT system - called VVT-i - where instead of the simple 'on' or 'off' positions of the earlier VVT system, this version can make the inlet cam retard/advance to any angle between the maximum limits, and to do this the camshaft has a position sensor on the back of the head. This means that the engine is even more flexible in it's power output than before. The latest version, VVTL-i is described on ,this page,. It's completely different to the original VVT system, and is more like the V-TEC in operation. There are two engines that commonly use the VVTL-i system, the 1ZZ-FE/2ZZ-GE series and the latest (in 1999 & onwards) 3SGE, as used in the sporty Altezza. The early generation 'redtop' four 3SGE's have a single inlet VVT-i and the later 'blacktop' generation four 3SGE's have dual VVT-i controllers, one on the inlet and the other on the exhaust cam, and makes 200hp from 2 litres. So, using VVT technology, it's pretty easy to get around 100hp per litre. Toyota has now gone to the third evolution of the VVT, and it not only alters the cam timing, but it also alters the valve lift as well. The 'old' VVT system simply can't do this, so Toyota has gone to a system much like the .... HONDA V-TEC Right. Let's not muck around. For straight power output, the V-TEC system ,craps, all over the VVT system. The latest Honda V-TEC engine, as used in the S2000 sports car, makes 240hp odd out of only 2 litres - That's a sparkling 120hp per litre. The V-TEC system is far more complex than the VVT, but it allows you to not only alter the cam timing, but to alter the valve duration and lift at well. It's really like having two engines in one - A 'sedate' one for grocery-getting, and the other a red-blooded high revving screamer. How it does this, however, is with a multitude of 'fiddly bits'. Here's a picture of the valve gear. Or if you can't see enough detail, try this one -> (121kb pic <-- and --> 85kb pic) Ok, pay attention - This is where it starts to get tricky! What happens when the engine computer decides to make the V-TEC shift to 'grunt' mode is this - Up until that point, the valves are operated by the pair of cam followers that run directly on top of each valve. A hydraulic valve opens in the head somewhere, allowing oil pressure to fill the pivot shaft that the cam followers swing off. The oil is then directed to a tiny set of pins that live in the inner follower. These pins push outwards when the valves are shut, locking the inner cam follower to the two outer followers. The inner follower runs on a cam lobe that sits between the outer two, and is ,much,bigger. This is the lobe that has the larger duration and lift, and so suddenly allows the engine to breath a ,lot, better. You can see from the above pictures, and the one below that there's been a huge amount of effort to make it all work. The cam followers all have small rollers, to reduce friction and allow for a larger cam lobe. The follower system of valve operation, believe it or not, is quite similar to the latest developments in Formula One engine technology. (Though the F1's don't use V-TEC, have pneumatic valve springs, a smaller included valve angle, and so on ...) Here's a picture of a head that's been cross-sectioned. If you look ,very, carefully at the right hand cam, you can just see the larger of the two sets of cam lobes hiding behind the smaller ones. Honda have also made a single cam version of the V-TEC, (V-Tir system??) though it only operates on the inlet cam valve timing/duration/lift. As with the twin cam system, it is quite elegant but has many small parts operating under high loads and speeds. (84kb pic) The point at which the V-TEC system operates is a purely rpm derived point, as was the VVT system, and is done for exactly the same reasons. Because of this, you will not gain anything on a standard engine (either type) by using one of the aftermarket controllers that let you alter the rpm at which the systems operate. All you'll do is create an unpleasant dead spot in the torque curve. Below is the Nissan version of V-TEC, the VVL system. It's basically exactly the same as V-TEC in design and operation and so I assume is used under licence. This engine is the SR-16-VVL 'bluetop' and they make about 175hp from the factory. There's a similar N1 version that has a red coloured cam cover and they're reported to make 197hp. There's only suposed to be about 400 bluetops and 80 redtops made, and they were fitted to the faster versions of the Nissan Pulsars in Japan. This engine is my own, and it's going into my ,Mallock, racing car. On the right is how it looked when I picked it up in Malaysia. The VVT and V-TEC in operation in the real world The Toyota engines seem to run slightly more aggressive cams than the Honda's, and so at lower revs they seem to (anecdotal evidence here ...) be a bit more pleasant to drive and make a little more power. There's also less of a transition when the cam shifting systems operate, but this is obvious due to the Honda system swapping over to a much more 'racy' cam profile. I think that the Honda's may seem to be a little 'flat' at lower revs because of this relatively large contrast, but I'd have to drive one and see a dyno chart to make verify this. Pro's, - Both systems allow you to have an engine that's quite a lot more powerful and yet still driveable than a 'conventional' engine would otherwise possibly be. The V-TEC is the obvious choice for outright power, and the Honda's certainly seem to rev a heck of a lot more than the Toyota's do. (The S2000 red lines at a stratospheric 9,000rpm - stock!) Con's, - You are pretty much stuck with limited modifications to the engine, eg, air filters, extractors, etc, to get more power. The reason for this is the very system that give the engine all that extra power - The cams & VVT/V-TEC. You ,can, of course use larger cams to get more power, but this defeats the purpose of having the VVT/V-TEC in the first place. You'll most likely lose power at low revs, and not gain a great deal at high revs. (The VVT will gain proportionally more than the V-TEC, however, as the V-TEC head is optimised - well, compromised - for the 'big' cam & 'small' cam and so using a larger cam may not help much at all) So, if you want an engine with power like a racing engine, then you're better off building a straight race engine right from the start. Or maybe a turbo engine ... The other concern I have is the longevity of these sorts of engines. I believe that the VVT system would be largely trouble free for the life of the engine provided that you keep the oil clean and change it regularly. Even more so with the V-TEC, as with all it's little bits & pieces in close formation in the head I'd hate to think what would happen if some of those little locking pins didn't engage properly at 6000rpm+. All that being said though, I have it on reliable advice that Honda have never had a warrantee claim for any V-TEC engine in the area of the head and/or valve gear. Quite impressive. I think that perhaps the best long term solution to getting large amounts of power from a relatively small engine is still by using a turbo, but if you like to hear the engine scream at high revs then one of these two systems is the way to go. source: ,Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT): What it is, how it works,, ,Bill Sherwood's VVT Vs VTEC Page,, ,The Fuel and Engine,.