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red paddle shifters Post Review

Another Mod added to that red 4771 https://t.co/ZtwmuQUd5z Paddle shifters this time! #thatred4771 #YouTube https://t.co/EH4LLjkMaV

Sizeable grip leather perforated multi-functional flat bottomed steering wheel with red stitching and paddle shifters , the stainless steel pedals are a carry over from Volkswagen group product portfolio, with illuminating scuff plate, #NewAudiS3SportBack https://t.co/rtYYq2FAhM

The featured #Corvette on day 66 is a 2006 Monterey Red C6. 2006 was the first year that paddle shifters were an option for Corvettes! #100DaysOfCorvettes #CorvettePassion #MidAmericaMotorworks https://t.co/z7ok2iamkj

The GT-Line Turbo’s exclusive black and red interior includes paddle shifters and an 8-inch color Head-Up Display #Soul https://t.co/ezk0ptrnO2

let’s start a “do a pull” thread... 1..2..3 GO! 🚦 https://t.co/n4rCGHJ1kc

Sports Trim : ~ Dual Tone ,Sport Emblem,Red Brake Caliper,Glossy Black Front Grille with Red Insert, Dark Grey Front Bumper Garnish, Paddle Shifters,Dark Grey Roof Rail with Red Insert on Wheel Arches ,Body Molding,D Cut Steering with Red Stich Contd.... https://t.co/1qpNethwv8

Red paddle shifters 😍 https://t.co/0KIb3WpNEO

Toyota 86 Year 2013 2000cc petrol engine 3 door Sport mode capability 4 seater Double exhaust pipes Push start button Paddle shifters New registration number Low ground clearance Xenon headlights Color : Red Located : Mombasa #Toyota #Kenya https://t.co/gS1DXxPGy6

Mercedes Benz :: C200:: Year 2013 :: AMG Kit ✅Cash Offer Kshs 2.5M ✅ Asset Finance from 70% Repayment 5 Years ▪️1800cc TurboCharged Petrol ▪️2WD Rear Wheel Driven ▪️7-speed automatic with paddle shifters ▪️Semi Leather interior with Red seat ▪️7 Harman Kardon speaker Audio https://t.co/sDv6mt76AX

Interior > M full alcantara steering wheel with CF paddle shifters > Mugello red stitching and accents throughout the cabin > CS badges > M CF bucket for front and rear seats with Nürburgring map details on every headrest > light weight centre console (storage tray delete). https://t.co/wcAEyvoOvZ

red paddle shifters Q&A Review

What is difference between one, dual and triple plate clutch and can they all be manual?

Hrmm, what does it mean, or what do people mean when they say it these days? What it means is actually very simple. If you look at the below picture you will notice a bunch of "disks." When referring to the disk, people are ,normally, ,referring to the disk with the composite material on it (aka, the clutch disk). The big red one up front is the pressure plate. It houses the big spring which keeps the pressure on the "pack" (the whole assembly). Then there is a "clutch disk", followed by an intermediate disk, another clutch disk, and finally the "flywheel" which bolts the to motor (in most applications.) This is what was ,normally ,referred to as a "twin disk" setup. These are used in high horsepower/torque applications. If it was a "single disk" then the intermediate disk wouldn't be there and there would only be one clutch disk. This is where the word "normally" gets obscured. I've found that many people have been interchangeably using the phase twin disk, when they mean dual (or double) clutch. These days there has been a heavy influx of "dual clutch" sequentail transmissions. These transmissions have been creating so much confusion across the world of automotive enthusiasts whom don't spend much time under their cars. These cars do not have stick shifts. They tend to have paddle shifters, and can be driven in "automatic"mode. But please don't confuse these with automatics. And please don't confuse automatics that come with paddle shifters as sequentail gearboxes. These sequentail transmissions work a lot like the transmissions in street bikes, but that isn't important to the question. What is important is that they have "dual clutches" (or double clutches), not "twin disks." What is the difference? Dual clutch setups have two separate clutch mechanisms which can trade off gears with the other. One can disengage while the other engages. They allow for smooth, fast, and continuous accelerations. Dual clutch setups may be the future, at least until electric takes over. And if eCVT doesn't take over in the middle time. (I said eCVT, not CVT... but that is a whole other answer/rant.)

I’ve been really wanting to own a Maserati (luxury car), though I’ve been reading things about bad reliability and poor interior designs and details that don’t match its price tag. Is a Maserati really that bad?

I will preface my answer by saying that, since I started driving in 1968, I’ve owned 43 cars of many shapes and sizes, from a daily driver dune buggy when I lived in Brazil, to a daily driver vintage Rolls-Royce when I lived in Newport Beach, California. Few were new cars. They all had one thing in common: they were all unusual ( and many were literally unique). I also am a self-taught mechanic who knows his way around machine, wood, plastics, and paint shops. (I built prototype show cars for many major manufacturers.) That’s in the interest of qualifying my answers. I’m on my fourth Maserati, and second Quattroporte. (Should my two Citröen-Maseratis be considered Maseratis? Without their amazing odd-firing Maserati V6 engines, they’d be Citröens—slow but palatial…) My first Quattroporte-a 1985—I purchased in 1999 with 85K on the odometer, and drove it until 2004, with 112K. Not a lot of driving; during most of that time I lived and worked in San Francisco, and usually walked to work. The QP III, as it’s designated, was an absolute tank, that despite its size and complexity, never gave me a stitch of trouble until it overheated running through a car wash, and emerged cloaked in a steam cloud with a blown head gasket. The cause was a stuck $5 Bosch (note: German!) fan relay, but an engine rebuild at $11K was not in the cards. still, nothing but fond memories. Oh, yeah, 7 mpg… Quattroporte #2, a QP V which I’m driving daily now, is a deep charcoal 2008 GTS with a black leather, suede, and alcantara interior with red topstitching, lowered sport Bilstein suspension, 6-pad Brembo front discs, 20″ wheels, paddle shifters, and sport exhaust. I believe that only 600 GTSs were manufactured over a 3-year period, which makes this a very rare car. The GTS carried a price tag that was about $35K higher than the “base” QP due to upgraded brakes, suspension, tires and wheels. it is a VERY firm-riding automobile that features amazing handling characteristics! I bought it with 38K miles, and I have put 12K per year on it since. it turned 63K yesterday. It has never been to a mechanic since I’ve owned it. It’s had regular oil and filter changes, which I do myself on ramps in my gravel driveway, has had one brake job (myself again) and one set of very pricey tires. The car is very well-engineered and durably built, with no squeaks or rattles. Its one breakdown was a failed alternator (a Japanese Nippondenso part with a 60,000 mile service life that went out right on schedule, though in a torrential rain storm, of course. Hooray for AAA). Replacement requires removal of the intake manifold—not a job to be lightly undertaken with the Ferrari-built powerplant! Still, I did it myself in my driveway in one 6-hour sprint. By any standard, utterly reliable, with the quality of parts, engineering, build quality, and exclusivity that is expected in a car with a $142K sticker price. Its appeal to me, is largely sensory. It looks and sounds amazing, and every detail is thoughtfully and carefully designed and rendered. It’s a car for a grownup who likes to travel fast and in style with all the advantages of state-of-the-art engineering and safety minus any superfluous mommycoddling so common in expensive Japanese cars. And it transports five! The reliability, then, is a HUGE bonus: the icing on the pannetone. How about some satisfaction for you naysayers who’ve never owned or driven one? OK: Tire noise. the tires are very wide, especially in the rear. they can be loud on aggregate or grooved road surfaces. also, fronts and rears are different sizes, and they’re unidirectional. This means they cannot be rotated, though after 25,000 miles on my new set, there’s still 70% tread left. Yeah, I know, I was surprised, too, but that’s what the dealer gave me on a pro-rated replacement rear tire with a sidewall gash, Rough ride. When I want smooth I have a backup Jaguar XJ8 VDP with 173K miles. Mediocre A/C. A black car in a hot climate. The A/C is good, but takes awhile to cool down a hot interior. There’s the usual extra attention that a dark-colored car demands in washing and waxing. Fuel economy. 15 mpg in town, and 22 on the open road. Great, considering the performance factor. It ain’t a Prius, which for me is cause for celebration… If you know very little about cars, mechanically-speaking, and are inclined to haunt the dealer for every glitch, Maseratis are not for you. Mine has very few glitches (read: zero in 2 1/2 years), but if one does pop up, you’ll want to be able to handle the input with aplomb without having a mechanic to hold your hand and drain your wallet. Which brings me to: Dealers. These guys can be bandits, with $590 oil changes and $2800 brake jobs. Some will charge you $175 to look up the radio activation code on their computer. Fortunately, I have two good ‘uns nearby. A shout out to the parts and service guys and gals in Sacramento and Walnut Creek. Smiles.

What does the S and L gear in a vehicle do?

S - Sport Mode. It gives the car a sportier powertrain behavior, usually by delaying upshifts to allow you to use as much of the engine’s powerband up to red line. This makes for fast and aggressive acceleration at the expense of reduced fuel economy. On many vehicles, this mode also enables manual sequential shifting, either through paddle shifters or the shift lever. This is usually indicated by (+) and (-). L - Low Gear. Locks an automatic transmission to 1st gear. Used when more torque is required (starting up a long incline, fully-loaded or towing a trailer) without the transmission automatically shifting up. Under appropriate situations, it can be used for engine braking.

Does the Honda Insight a good value car?

I think so. I have a 2010 Honda Insight and it has had no mechanical problems, just 3 sets of tires and numerous oil changes, every 8000 miles. It uses synthetic oil which is more expensive than regular oil. I have replaced the starting battery, air filters and various minor stuff. The tires don’t last very long, 30,000 miles or so on average. The tire guy says the eco tires don’t last as long as the regular ones but give you higher MPG. The steering wheel has lost it’s covering which wasn’t under warranty, despite what they said “bumper to bumper everything” when they sold it to me… They should have covered the steering wheel problem since it had to be a problem with their coatings, not my driving. I average about 45 miles per gallon driving it everywhere. The ride isn’t too soft, since it has a “sport suspension” and has paddle shifters under the steering wheel. Having a “sport suspension” and paddle shifters on a four door car with a 1300 cc engine is ludicrous. It isn’t a racer, and never will be. It is an economical car and has been reliable, which was what I wanted. It has a reasonable amount of wind and road noise on the highway. I did get rear ended by an idiot who was texting while driving. We were stopped at a red light and he was going about 40 mph, and the collision caused about $750 to my car and was fixed in about 3 days. We were not harmed in the collision and the air bags didn’t deploy. The biggest thing I don’t like is that it stops the engine and Air Conditioning when you stop at a red light. I live in Florida and we need our AC! So, I have to knock the transmission in neutral, pull up the emergency brake and let my foot off the brake to crank the engine back up and run the AC. I understand that 2016 and later Insight models have the compressor run by an electric motor so it runs when the engine is off.

Why would someone double clutch while accelerating?

Double-clutching is used when your manual-shift vehicle does not have "syncromesh," or has one that's easily defeatable. The idea is to match the speed of the crankshaft (what you see as rpm's on the tachometer) with the speed of the drive shaft, which is reduced by the gears in the transmission. So let's say you're in 3rd gear and coming to a red light. The tach reads 2,000 rpm, you push in the clutch pedal, shift to 2nd, and let out the clutch pedal. The tach immediately jumps to 3,000 rpm, but the car lurches, and sometimes the drive wheels skid. To avoid this lurch, you push in the clutch, shift to neutral, let out the clutch, "blip" the accelerator so the tach reads 3,000 rpm or more, push in the clutch, shift to 2nd, and finally let out the clutch. Now the gears engage very smoothly, and the car uses engine braking to slow down. This save wear on the clutch as well as on the brakes, and after a while, double-clutching becomes second nature (I do it all the time unconsciously). Now, why would you do this accelerating? In 1st gear, you wind the car up to say 5,000 rpm. You lift your foot off the throttle, push in the clutch, shift to 2nd, by that time the tach has dropped to match the slower driveshaft speed so the gears mesh pretty well when you let out the clutch. Maybe with no synchromesh, you might have to do this for a truck? But for a car, it's totally unnecessary to double-clutch on acceleration. Perhaps the original reference was to a "dual-clutch transmission?" This is used for high-performance automatic transmissions, where there is one clutch for odd-numbered gears and one for even. This system enables the drive wheels to be fully powered during each shift (no letting off the throttle), so no pause during acceleration. But you'd need an automatic transmission to do this. Put it in drive and use the paddle shifters while flooring the accelerator continuously. No art at all!

Why is it necessary for automatic cars to include the RPM dial on the instrument panel; do people really need this?

Really need is a little subjective. An engine could near red line on the RPM dial in a low range on a steep down hill. Selecting the low range to use engine compression, saving your brakes from overheating is a safety recommendation. Engine sounds will be a hint in braking to assist the transmission in these circumstances without one. Cars with paddle shifter option, when not in straight automatic transmissions mode they will assist with the optimum range.changes. It may be that they're filling a spot on the dash that is more relevant to stick shift but best to read the operation manual for the car.

What are some amazing facts about Formula 1 racing?

Since everyone's talking about the cars, the tracks and the awesome tech that goes into it. I'm going to talk about the one thing that makes all these things work together and take incredible risks to produce a spectacular race and it's in the cockpit. The F1 drivers. Driving an F1 car might look easy especially with power steering and paddle shifters being used in the current F1 cars but muscling an F1 car around a track and losing up to 3kgs of water weight while maintaining focus and spotting the apex is no walk in the park. F1 drivers are truly athletes on a different level. Think of someone who is capable of running a complete 42km marathon while still needing to lift and press heavy weights in between, that pretty much sums up what an F1 driver fitness level needs to be at. They need an Iron Neck - The amount of force an F1 driver goes through while he turns his machine around a corner can be massive. With the high down force F1 cars are the fastest in the corners and can apply a force of 5-6Gs on the neck muscles of the driver. That supremely light weight F1 helmet can turn from a 1.2Kg helmet to a whopping 7Kg when the G force kicks in. Imagine keeping your head straight while you try to push that weight using your neck while still steering your car onto the apex so that you don't drop your lap times and speed. F1 drivers are Endurance machines, they are trained to keep doing tough things over and over. This training also makes them pretty tough against the forces involved in racing and at unfortunate times crashes. Lets also take a look at some of the incredible forces the drivers experience when they crash, 2016 Alonso crashed onto Esteban Gutierrez at the Australian Grand Prix. He experienced forces at 46G and walked away with just sprained ribs, in fact his fiber seat broke from the crash. 2007 was a more massive crash for Robert Kubica, he walked away from a 75G crash at the 2007 Montreal Grand Prix with just a slight concussion and a sprained ankle. Another very interesting and unbelievable crash is of Mark Webber's in 2010 , He was driving a Red Bull and crashed into the back of Heikki Kovalainen’s Lotus. His Red Bull literally found wings, flew into the air and then crashed back onto the ground bouncing on its tires before going into the barriers. Webber's car telemetry showed he had exerted somewhere between 250 and 300 kg of braking force before the crash, his brake peddle snapped, let's think about that for a moment. Even an above average body builder in the gym would go 230Kgs as his 1 rep max, he might have nightmares about tearing his leg muscles or tendons if he tries anything above that. It was amazing that Webber was able to apply this force, sure the G force from the initial braking might have helped him, but we need to remember that this force was being transferred through the flesh and bones in his legs. After the crash Webber was seen throwing away his steering wheel and proceeding to remove his neck support system. He just had minor injuries. Apart from the high technology and safety in F1, nothing amazes me more than watching these athletes walk away from these brutal crashes. Their training and hard work pays off in the end.

What is it like using a Mustang as a daily car?

W O N D E R F U L ! I haven’t had a new car since 2005 (Mustang GT then). This car has everything, and things I never thought of. Tire pressure at all 4 corners, 0–30, 0–60, 1/4 mile “Christmas Tree” timer, EZ exit, cooled (not just heated) seats, EZ fuels (no gas cap), I still haven’t figured out “My Color” completely (I want red). Blind spot warning (necessary in a convertible with the top up), love the paddle shifters, etc. etc. I have the optional 20″ 35 aspect summer tires only. But I live in the desert. Good gas mileage with the Ecoboost and quick enough. If I want more there is a Power Pack from Ford that adds 40–100 HP.

How does the gear selector mechanism work?

the gear selector mechanism works on three things 1)gear ratios 2)wheel speed and 3)engine revolutions per minutes so when you put your car in D mode it takes a look at the speed and it has pre-programmed gear ratios in it and the gear boxes management computer has been set to be in a particular band of rpm Like in a Vento the standard idling point is 990rpm and the redline is 4500(I am not sure about this but too lazy to go down there and have a look at it but most likely that's it) In each and every gear except for 1st the downshifting point is 1500rpm (most likely) And the highest up shifting rpm point is most probably the red line. That is the total mechanical game. programming and computers play with the rest like response on the tug of the paddle shifter etc.

What burns more gas, accelerating as fast as possible to 60 mph (e.g. 10 seconds) or accelerating slowly (e.g. 30 seconds)?

In addition to the many rightful answers saying that the best fuel economy is attained by accelerating at high engine load (near full throttle), but at low revs in order to be able to up-shift to higher gears as soon as possible, here are some graphs showing it. The above one is for a Toyota Yaris II D4D. The red lines show the way to obtain maximum acceleration, such as in racing or to clock the lowest possible time up to a given speed. The aim is to keep the engine as near as possible to its max power revs. Launch from rest is done at engine max torque by slipping the clutch — or the wheels if possible, but unlikely with this Yaris — up to about 16 km/h. Upshifts are performed around 4500 rpm — from 1st to 2nd at 40 km/h, 2nd to 3th at 74 km/h, etc. The green lines show how to accelerate frankly but in an fuel economical way, between 2/3 engine load and full engine load, aka 2/3 to full throttle. Up-shift to 2nd is done as soon as possible at about 16 km/h, and the engine is somewhat accelerated simultaneously along the vehicle throughout the gearshifts. (This is more important to save fuel on a loaded heavy truck with 12 or 16 gears because you don’t want to waste energy in letting the crankgear and flywheel slow down and re-accelerate it too much several times). Below is the BSFC map of a Mercedes 350 CGI. You want to stay in the green areas for the lowest specific fuel consumption and the sweet spot for this specific but typical gasoline engine is 235 g/kW.h between 1900 rpm and 2700 rpm at 75% load. If we accelerate slowly at very low engine load, the fuel consumption is in the red areas at more than 320 g/kW.h. And below is the BSFC map of a VW Golf VI 2.0 TDI. The hyperbolas of various colors are the iso-power lines. For example, if 40 hp (light blue line) are requested, they’ll be obtained with the best fuel efficiency between 1300 rpm and 1800 rpm at about 215 g/kW.h. Great fuel efficiency, but it might be somewhat altered now after the reprogramming due to the emissions scandal! Moe Incanto and Peter David Hill have posted the nice BSFC map for a 1.9 liter Saturn, also with iso-power hyperbolas. UPDATE: automatic transmissions The above is mostly for manual transmissions and I forgot to write about automatics. With them, accelerating frankly in “D” somewhere around 2/3 engine load until the desired speed is attained should provide a good fuel economy, with upshifts at reasonably low revs. They are programmed with an hysteresis delaying upshifts (and downshifts too) to avoid ceaseless up and down shifts when the conditions remain borderline. With older 3 and 4-ratios automatics, it was possible to elude that hysteresis by slightly releasing the accelerator to force an upshift and then pressing the throttle more again as soon as the upshift had been done. But with 6 or more ratios it becomes difficult because the transmission will then immediately downshift 1 or 2 ratios when the throttle is depressed a little more again. In principle, an automatic transmission should shift at the most appropriate time so that the consumption is minimal for the requested power. But in order to avoid incessant shifts when the vehicle speed and the engine load are close to the ideal point for this shift, hysteresis is essential. That is, the shifts are delayed from the optimal to obtain a crossover range. For example, in the above graph, if the vehicle is traveling at 90 km/h in 6th with 30% engine load (in the area under the bold purple line), a downshift from 6th to 5th will only occur if the throttle is depressed until the engine is loaded at least 80%. If its load exceeds 94%, a downshift in 4th will even take place. For a shift back to 6th, the load will have to be reduced below 43%. Note: ,Avoid the “S” (for “Sport”) program. It keeps the engine at higher revs and provides no advantages, only the drawbacks of increased fuel consumption and noise. If we need engine braking or if we want to drive very fast on a winding road, it’s better to shift manually using the paddle shifters or main shifter.