epoxy undercoating
epoxy undercoating Post Review
Gila jugak nak habiskan strip rubberized undercoating ni, 3 kali tidur 6 kali makan baru siap. Setakat ini sahaja yang dapat saya buat, body karat teruk ni. Dulu saya biasa pakai etching primer, kalii ini nak try pakai 2K epoxy primer dari Alesco. Harap2 merecik la hasilnya. https://t.co/eNyfcznlcT
Stripping away the pounds of factory undercoating, and shooting epoxy paint! http://t.co/MCwBSaru1J
@EastwoodCo Matt used some pics in your paint brochure earlier this year. Epoxy Primer Urethane Primer / Surfacer Carbon Fiber Metallic - as the base Candeez Vino Rojo as the red on top of the base European Clear And some black chassis paint and undercoating. ;) https://t.co/vR1mZBk35C
@GYC_Mark @BonitaGhost @PPGRefinish_NA @ClassicInd @PhoenixGraphix1 @MotorTrendTV @graveyardcarz Did you put undercoating, bedliner, or is that gravel guard? Is the grayer color and non-textured a tinted epoxy? Awesome picture for duplication! (Even though we use different paint brands 😉)
The weather has finally let me #paint I've got epoxy primer and undercoating on the cab! Gonna… https://t.co/zSl3rIKpmv
Started this project on Monday. Using epoxy resin on the areas of rot. Windows not in too bad a condition, but it's been fully prepped, just going through the undercoating stage. . #decorators… https://t.co/Z4lkd6aRkO
@chainchompist gm 🖤😊🖤 how's that epoxy undercoating going?
Priefert Dog Kennels All kennels have exclusive EPOXY undercoating for maximum resistance to corrosion Superi… http://t.co/ETV3av9a
Inhibit nest egg as to carpet sweeper costs via epoxy garage starting point undercoating: FpqYUXcr
Digital Paint Digital Paintball 2 - Good Shepherd Catholic Church: Epoxy Paint Undercoating - painful hits are t... http://bit.ly/ejkuIV
epoxy undercoating Q&A Review
What is the hardest part of a car to rebuild?
The body. Rebuilding a complete chassis, such as in a frame-off restoration, can take months or years. If a panel is damaged and no replacement is available, it’s necessary to figure out how the factory made the panel, and use metalworking techniques to reproduce it. The factory usually has big dies to stamp shapes in sheet metal. The metal worker doesn’t have these of course, but with cutting, bending shrinking and stretching, the panel can be re-made from flat sheet. Then the panel needs to be welded in place carefully to prevent overheating, uneven heating and warpage. A patch like the one below can take 2–3 days to make and weld in. Then it needs epoxy coating, and undercoating matching the surrounding panel. Even though this is under the car, the panel needs to look like it did when it was new. A good restoration doesn’t leave any weld seams or evidence that there was ever rust or damage. Body work is by far the most time consuming and laborious. Transmissions: Rebuilding a hydraulic automatic transmissions is a 2–3 day job for a pro. The hardest part is usually getting them out of the car. There are exhaust crossovers in the way, lots of frozen bolts, hard lines that you don’t want to bend or break, etc. Once it is on the bench, it’s a matter of removing and inspecting the hard parts, replacing any of them that are worn or damaged, and putting in a new soft-parts kit (clutches, seals, etc). Of course, you need to know what all the parts do, and whether they’re in backwards or not. They’re not magic. Engines: An engine builder needs to be a good machinist. You need to know how to use and read micrometers, snap gauges, bore dials and know what kind of tolerances you want in an engine. An engine builder doesn’t need to be a machine shop, but will be sending the bulk of the work out to the machine shop. The machine shop usually specializes in a fixed set of engines, and has the tooling set up to do repetitive work quickly and efficiently.
When welding I a patch panel should the steel have any particular qualities, should it be galvanized or treated in any way?
Patch panels shouldn’t be galvanized if they’re going to be welded in. Zinc galvanized steel has a pretty heavy layer of zinc, which will burn off and create toxic fumes. I use deep drawing steel for steel panel repairs. DDS is almost pure iron, less than 0.025% carbon, which makes it very easy to shape and weld, but also very corrosion resistant and once shaped, very strong. The cheap mild steel sheet found at home repair stores is not good for auto body repair. It has a wider range of impurities and may contain oxide inclusions from continuous casting/rolling, meaning even when painted it can start rusting without any help from the environment. Other steel sheet sold at hardware stores is galvanized or aluminized flashing, and is not suitable for auto repairs. If a repair involves overlapping seams that will be spot welded, or pinch seams, coat the seam areas with a weld-through primer like Bloxide, UPOL #2, 3M Weld Thru II or similar. Bare metal seams tend to rust no matter what, so putting some weld-through primer between the seams is a good idea. The most common pinch weld repairs are where rocker panels meet floor tubs or subframes, and windshield frame seams. These areas are usually the first to rust due to the nature and location of the seam. This is a rocker panel seam repair: The weld through primer would be on the inside of that seam. This seam will later be epoxy primed, sealed with flexible seam sealer and undercoated.
How do you patch a rust hole on a vehicle?
Like Mike said in his answer, the way to patch a rust hole is to completely cut off all of the rusted metal, than weld new metal with the right shape to match the body. When I did it for a living, my preferred method was to do the welding with M.I.G. welder, using short welds on different areas of the patch, allowing cooling of the welds to prevent some of the warping of the metal. All the welding is filled in to one continuous bead that is ground down, and sandblasted with a low pressure sand blaster to find any pinholes or missed spots in the welding. After the welding is perfect, I would use some fiberglass reinforced body filler just to cover the welds, and after grinding it down, use regular auto body plastic filler, to fill and sand down to make the patched area shaped right. I also used highly toxic epoxy primer during rust hole repairs to form a waterproof bond between the metal and fillers and over the fillers before spraying on regular surfaces primer for final sanding before painting. When rust repairs are done in the manner described, and if all of the rusted metal is removed and replaced with new metal, or a new panel that matches the original body, and all metal prep, priming, sealing, and painting, along with painting or undercoating the back side of the patch, is done correctly, the patch will last for many years.
Why don't automobile manufacturers coat the entire body (in and out) and frame with a super hard rust resilient epoxy or enamel paint?
I have 3 words that answer your question. Weight. Cost. Durability. The ,weight, that an epoxy or urethane finish would add to a car would make it sufficiently heavier to affect gas mileage and performance in a significant way. Don't think for a minute that engineers ignore the weight of the paint. The ,cost, in time and money would add many thousands of dollars to the cost of each vehicle. If you are worried about that then it is possible for you to hire a good body shop to do just what you want. The difference between the ,durability, of the current metal treatments such as galvanizing and your super hard rust resilient epoxy or enamel paint is, well, far to the advantage of the current processes. Many folks believe that car parts only have a coating on the "shiny side" and the reverse is left bare, or maybe it has undercoating or something. This hasn't been the case in most cars since the early 1970's. If you've been around and aware for that long you would realize just how few cars rust away compared to then.
Will gelcoat stick to aluminum?
If properly prepared and undercoated it will — temporarily. If you were thinking of using gelcoat as a surface finish for aluminum, forget it. Interestingly, epoxy surface coatings are just marginally better. It would be of great help if you’d let us know what your purpose is. Come back with more information and let’s try it again.
I want to buy a '13 Pathfinder w/ 58K miles, from Ohio, I live in GA. It has some considerable rust under the carriage. Should I be concerned?
Rust is cancer, if it’s not chewed through then it can be contained through the use of a epoxy primer after a sanding job followed by an optional resin undercoating that has rust inhibiting properties this way you should be good for 5 years on body surfaces but since underbody suffers more abuse I’d say you can repeat the process whenever you see signs should still give you two good years at the very least. If it’s chewed through then do not invest in the car. From the pictures this is nominal rust, it is perfectly normal and can easily be contained. It is just a matter of fact that many manufacturers don’t coat the under-body from the factory, a new car owner could have the under-body treated for peace of mind but expect that the first 10 or even 15 years the under-body rust will not most probably eat through anything except your peace of mind or resale value should you choose not to get it treated when new.
What is the best way to patch a hole I drilled in a stainless steel panel? Is there an option to bring it close enough to original condition so it won't be noticeable?
Unfortunately I think the best patch is also the hardest to do -- welding a steel patch on the hole, grinding down the bead, and smoothing the final result with bondo. That wil be structurally stongest approach and should rust slowest. Of course to limit oxidation most, you'll want to prep the other side as well, at least some smoothing of rough edges and priming or undercoating to seal and protect the metal. Welding a small patch really isn't hard to do if you have the equipment. You might contact a good body shop or machine shop to ask what they'd charge to weld a patch. If your hole is relatively small (maybe 2 cm or 1 inch across), you might also consider using an epoxy patch. These are a little awkward to apply, but they're almost as stong as steel when they cure and they don't rust. JB Weld is a well known example. If you apply the patch to the back surface, you can just fill in the front with a little bondo. If you apply the patch to the front, you may want to first peen the edges of the hole below grade so the patch doesn't stick up as much, thereby requiring less bondo to feather the edges of the patch gracefully into the surrounding metal. On cars, it's also common to rivet a metal patch over the hole, hammer down the edges slightly below grade, then smooth in the patch with bondo. This fix isn't structural and it's likelier to rust (or react galvanically) than a welded patch, but if you're repairing a rust hole, you probably have a growing rust problem elsewhere on the car too, so it makes little sense to invest a liot of time/money in repairing each hole when others will surely follow soon.
What type of glue or epoxy can fix dry rot?
I use wood rot hardener after I bleach and remove all loose wood. Three coats and under enamel oil floor paint I try not to cover everything because it makes the oil chip because it’s super hard. Minwax makes it, And the woodrot hardener is separate from the filler epoxy. So start by gouging out the rot. If it’s all over the floor don’t use this product it doesn’t replace the resins in the wood it will just allow the wood to take the filler not keep finish on the wood. If it’s in the tongue and groove or in a spot like a seam use a syringe and inject it along the crack rather than coating the piece it’s a bad enamel undercoating. Use you’re common sense and wear protection.
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