wiper hose connector
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wiper hose connector Post Review
Dah lame x mandi kn si wiper ni. Camni laa jadi nyer. Kat fire hose punyer connector pon boleh mandi http://t.co/5Co6dlpFMr
[$2.04]2 PCS Front Windshield Washer Wiper Jet Water Spray Nozzle + Hose Connector Set 6438Z7 for Citroen https://t.co/BSBukyCY5c
How to fix a wiper hose with an electrical connector. #mazdaspeed3 #diy #thinkingoutsidethebox @ Lacey, Washington https://t.co/XLvyMcTO3A
Exterior • Wiper Hose Connector: Hi. Recently purchased a VERY low mileage 1990 Safari to restore and convert ... http://t.co/HsFFiuEXMq
wiper hose connector Q&A Review
What is the simplest car repair you have ever done?
The first car I ever owned was older than me: a 1954 Singer Vogue. As I recall, it cost me $125. Once, I was on a hundred-mile trip to visit my parents when the radiator hose burst. Like, it went ,bang, and sprayed dirty water everywhere. I had to turn on the windscreen wipers so I could see where I was going. Fortunately, I was only half a mile away from a small town, so I drove on, with the temperature gauge visibly rising. I switched off the engine when it redlined, and coasted into the forecourt of the town’s only service station. Now, the old Singer had a weird radiator hose: S-shaped, with different sized connectors on each end. There was no way a little rural service station had any of those in stock. In the end, I bought a roll of electrical tape for 90 cents and begged an old bread bag from the owner. I wrapped the bag around the split, then used up the whole roll of tape, just going around and around and back and forth until the whole hose was a black blob. Hopefully it would last long enough to get me home. It got me home, all right. Hadn’t leaked a drop. In fact, when I sold the car a year or so later, it was still there! Why change what works?
Is there a way to improvise if the windshield washer motor is broke?
In my experience no. Your’s could be different. But when I had a vehicle where the windshield wiper motor was iffy there was no good solution but to just get in there and replace it (which in my case really wasn’t a bad job at all). I “fixed” it via improvisation several times and felt the smug satisfaction of thinking I’d gotten out of spending the cash to fix it for real. It’d work for a while, it’d work when I tested it, it’d work during a light sprinkle, etc. Then when the rain really got serious and I really needed my wipers… THAT WAS WHEN IT’D QUIT ON ME. It finally happened that I was about 1/3rd of the way through a 4 hour drive coming home from college for a long weekend that the rain started falling heavy and traffic on I-75 (a major 6+ lane interstate highway) started slowing down and stacking up and within 5 minutes my wipers just died mid-swipe… stopped right in the middle of my line of sight, which may have actually been a blessing as the stalled wiper created a small “shadow” just above it where rain from below couldn’t flow up into and the wind deflecting off the wiper seemed to cut down on direct rain fall, and that shadow was how I saw well enough to stay in my lane. I slowed down enough so traffic in front was always out running me and carefully made my way to the next exit. There I found one of those old-fashioned gas and service stations where they actually had a garage. No one was working the garage on a Friday evening, but the teller was nice enough to go out their with me and we found some scrap hose which I was able cram between the motor connector and my truck to get the wipers working again. I thanked the guy, topped off my tank to give him some business and got back on the road and back into the pouring rain. My wipers lasted for about 5 minutes and then died again. Fortunately the rain started to let up at about that time and I made it home without further incident. I replaced the motor that weekend, drove that truck for about 3 more years and never had any more trouble with the wipers. I think the motor cost me about $70 and replacing it took my Dad and I about an hour. Lesson learned? Sometimes we can be too clever for our own good. Actually correcting the problem was a far better decision than trying to continuously out-smart it.
Does driving your car with a bad catalytic converter cause harm?
Define “Bad”. Does not function as efficiently as the OEM designed it to be, rear O2 sensor confirms that the efficiency is poor. Bad Cat. The cat substrate has melted and is now blocking the exhaust gas from entering the cat and exiting the pipes. Bad Cat. This one has much more implications. Even as small as 1 PSI of backpressure in the exhaust causes incorrect readings on the oxygen sensors. So what might be 14.67:1 AFR (air fuel ratio) coming out of the engine with no backpressure, in the presence of backpressure now becomes richer appearing to the oxygen sensor, now the PCM/ECM/ECU/VCM/VCU (whatever you wish to call it) now tries to CORRECT for the AFR and it will lean it out. So what could be perfectly 14.67:1 is now being read as 13.5:1 (or whatever it “reads”), it will pull fuel out till it gets to stoich (14.67:1 on pure gas, or about 14.1:1 on 10% ethanol fuel, or approx 9.8:1 on E85 summer blend). So NOW its running, the exhaust is now getting hotter, the cats that are already melted and plugging up the exhaust get hotter and hotter, potentially melting the substrate more. Note that RICH fuel conditions or raw fuel getting not burned completely are more likely culprits of melting a cat substrate than lean, but both have problems. So yes, it IS bad and will only get worse and worse and WILL cause more engine damage if left unrepaired. A competent shop (dealer would be my choice) or a mechanic that can explain to you what they will do to test for a bad cat is where you go. A home mechanic can make a simple homebrew backpressure tester with a spark plug from a 1961 Ford Falcon with the 170 inline 6 (or similar, the old “big” spark plugs, remove the ceramic and thread the steel on the connector side and then thread a fitting in to put on a vacuum hose. Thread that into one of the 2 front (before cat) oxygen sensors (test both sides). Send that hose to a fuel pressure gauge and strap it under your windshield wiper and drive it. If it goes over 1 psi. Replace the cat. Don’t allow it in the engine compartment. And any mechanic that tells you that backpressure is NEEDED is one you never should go to, find a someone who understands combustion. Its some really garbage nonsense that has been around for eons. Well documented proof that backpressure ALWAYS hurts power and efficiency.
What are some things to know about maintaining a high mileage vehicle?
First things first. If you are not mechanically inclined, you have no business to own an old vehicle. I say that because an old car that was not properly repaired or maintained is a ticking time bomb that can die on you anytime. Now, that is established that you know cars and have the time and willingness to care of your “baby", few hints will help. Make sure electrical connectors in the engine bay are in good shape and still water tight. Battery posts and connectors are free of white powder. If the vehicle doesn't leak oils, add conditioners in all oils when change them. If small leaks exist, you can use stop leaks products, but in the same time check that “breathers" are not plugged. While working oil dilates and air has to be pushed out of transmissions or differentials. If air can't go, a seal will give way. Make sure PCV valve is in good shape. You don't want a plugged valve to damage engine seals due to internal overpressure. Inspect brake lines. Nowadays they are made out of steel. If rusted replace them all. Bleed the brakes every 3 years, Replace antifreeze not later than 4 years. There are some paper strips that you can use to check if your antifreeze is now corrosive and must be changed. Few WD40 sprays on door hinges, wiper arms hinges or door locks will go a long way. Inspect the rubber hoses. If you feel them hardened or the reinforcements in the hose cracked, replace them. When replace them, try to use factory self tightening clamps that will compensate when the new rubber gives in. The newer engines are hard to bleed the cooling system. Don't hesitate to cut of the ruber lines that go to the heater core and insert there breathers. It will make the bleeding a breeze. The radiator cap is a verry important part in the life of your engine. Usually is equipped with 2 valves that allow the cooling system to hold 15 PSI and get back in the system the coolant moved in the expansion tank when overheated. If the big radiator hoses are not hard as a sausage while engine is warm, most likely the cap won't hold pressure. I can't stress out the importance of this detail. At 15 psi and 100 degrees Celsius the coolant is stil fluid and cool the engine. At 0 psi and 100 degrees Celsius the coolant is boiled and cooling is done by a foam. Is not cooling. Is the perfect cause to warp your cylinder head. I replaced few Subaru head gaskets because the owners did not care about this detail. Big bucks for me. Accessories belt tensioner should not be stuck and all idlers must be noise free and not scratched. You get the idea. If vehicle is equipped with timing belt, stick with the manufacturer recommendation for replacement. The material fatigue is not always visible. Just replace what they say and be trouble free. Your vehicle is old now, the body was subject to milions of shocks and vibrations, that means fatigue of the materials. Check the alignment every time you buy a set of new tires or when you see steering is not behaving properly. Lastly but not least important, try to read service manuals and understand why things are done in certain ways. Go on forums and try to find things there too, but your reference is still the service manual. Hyness book is a good reference. All service manuals are written by people who know what are they doing, compared with forums where people are enthusiasts but not always good at what they do.
What's the most ingenious car repair you've ever seen done?
I wouldn’t call this “GENIUS” by any stretch of the imagination, but it did work as a successful EMERGENCY repair over 125 miles from home in a violent storm in freezing conditions…. I had an early 1990’s Mercury Grand Marquis. Yes - yes, I know I’m a Toyota - GM/Chevy man, but the Grand Marquis was a very good rear drive V-8 highway cruiser that was more than big enough to hold everybody’s “junk” on a vacation in it’s MASSIVE trunk and was also large enough to give everyone their own space. I had a massive stereo system in it to make the entertainment options outstanding (which would come in as a life saver later that night after I was beyond exhausted and NEEDED a way to keep my eyes open. The story begins with my best friend’s 2 youngest brothers (who are also very good friends, especially the youngest who quickly became one of my best friends despite the fact I remember the day he was brought home in a tiny bundle of clothing like it was yesterday as I was already just about 14! We were driving from my house in Jenkins Twp, Pa to where my best friend lived in a town named Lebanon, Tn (30–35 miles east of Nashville) in my meticulously maintained, relatively low mileage 8 year old car. Well…I love my coffee! I don’t drink much today as I can’t sleep the way it is since i got sick in 2004, but I used to drink a MINIMUM of 20–25 big cups per day. In the ARMY, while working as a tank mechanic, if I didn’t have a huge mug of hot coffee near by there would be tools flying at whoever thought it was funny to F**K with my coffee mug! Well, I drank my pot of coffee before we left and poured another pot into the two large thermoses I have, made sure we had emergency tools with us (I ALWAYS bring a box of emergency tools on every road trip, JUST IN CASE! Being a life long auto tech, certified master tech at that, I know the “lovely things that happen when one least expects them! I had the car on the rack the week before, all 4 wheels pulled, every brake inspected, found a slight amount of movement in a lower ball joint so I replaced them both and aligned the car, changed the oil * did a transmission service (changed 40–60% of the trans fluid, internal filter etc… & checked all belts, hoses, spark plugs, filters etc etc and everything in this car was in EXCELLENT operational condition! We left at 5:30 AM as we knew there was going to be some real nasty weather (snow down through Maryland, then snow/sleet & ice through northern Va) … I had studded snow tires on the back, which literally meant I could essentially pull a stuck truck out of a ditch with that car with those tires as I NEVER slid with a good set of studded snows on and still run them on my winter vehicle to this day. They have literally saved my life more times than I can honestly count by giving me the ability to control my car or minivan when everyone else was out of control and wound up as part of a 20–80 vehicle pile up with injuries and death! We had just reached the end of the PA State Police’s “targeted enforcement zone” on 81s that begins before Harrisburg and goes for 30 some odd miles when the first pot of coffee I drank decided it HAD to come out! I pulled over as traffic was light, walked to the passenger’s side of the car and took a leak. I walked back to the driver’s side of my car as a pack of cars and trucks passed by at the same time I smelled what I KNEW to be an electrical fire! I get back in the car and tell my friends that “someone” was in for a BAD day as I smelled something burning as the pack of cars passed me by! No sooner had the words left my mouth and I see a puff of smoke pop out of the back of my hood right in front of my driver side windshield! Well, Ford had a NOTORIOUS ISSUE for YEARS where their alternator wiring connector would develop high resistance and in their worst case scenario cause the car to catch on fire and burn until extinguished! I see the wiring harness going to the alternator on fire, with the wiring cherry red with heat, but I had no choice, I HAD to rip that wiring out then & there or lose the car and possibly everything in it! Once I got the wiring ripped out of the alternator, I dug out my emergency tools and cut the burnt wires back to where they had insulation so that they wouldn’t cause another fire, taped up what I could and drove down the interstate to the next exit to find no auto parts stores or ford dealers anywhere nearby, I stopped by a nearby garage and asked him where a parts store might be or a ford dealer (he wanted to fix my car, it took me a while to explain to him that I OWNED MY OWN GARAGE AND COULD EASILY FIX IT MYSELF….meanwhile my battery, which is the only thing keeping the car running, powering the engine computer, fuel pump, ignition system, transmission solenoids, lights, turn signals, wipers, heater etc etc etc had a LIMITED amount of power within it. I finally get this guy to tell me where the nearest Ford dealer is, which was about 20 miles away,,,,, I’m driving, through the snow, no lights, using the wipers only once or twice a minute, not using turn signals and using my e-brake to slow down to prevent lighting the brake lights etc etc…and then I finally reach the FORD dealership! They had the wiring harness in stock, which I had the tools to solder it in (and spare wiring in case any of the burnt wires were short…but they didn’t have a F******G alternator!!!!! So here I am, 125+ miles from my shop with just enough tools to handle an emergency. I solderend in the wiring harness, but the terminals on the alternator were a mess, thanks to being on fire. If you’ve ever seen one of these alternators, you’ll know that you can’t clean the terminals without disassembling the alternator,which I didn’t have some of the necessary “tools” for…… I BEGGED one of their mechanics to allow me to borrow some of his 1/4″ drive sockets, extensions, a long, skinny steel rod inserted that holds the brushes back so one can reassemble the alternator etc etc, and he finally relented so long as I’d leave my driver’s license in his toolbox until he got every single tool back. I can’t blame him one bit…I know what these tools cost! Unfortunately, this guy used low quality tools, and that’s being kind. Being the tools weren’t the size they were “supposed” to be, what would normally take me 5–10 minutes took me 45, but I was able to get the alternator completely apart, scrape the terminals clean with a razor blade and screwdriver…put it back together with the “Mickey Mouse” tools I’d borrowed and installed it in my car, praying to GOD that nothing sensitive in the alternator was wiped out when the massive short occurred that caused the fire. I got lucky…though my battery had JUST ENOUGH JUICE LEFT TO START THE ENGINE….the alternator was charging!!!!! I gave the mechanic his tools back, got my license back, asked if I could wash my hands (refused) so I took my greasy hands and got back on 81 to drive to Tennessee, hoping the alternator would hold up. KNOWING what I know about electronics/automobiles I was confident the alternator would hold up and confident that the “updated wiring harness connector” would hold up despite the alternator terminals not being in pristine condition. Well, we arrived at my best friend’s house at 3:30 AM! We had planned on being there by 7:00 PM….but the fire cost us a couple of hours, a major accident in Virginia due to total MORONS not knowing how to drive on slick roads causing an accident that delayed up another 3.5 hours and then my best friend’s middle Brother having us make a wrong turn onto 40 EAST instead of 40 WEST which none of us picked up until I saw a sign saying how far we were away from what I think was South Carolina!!!! Needless to say there was almost a brawl on the side of I40 EAST!!!! I beat the shit out of my car the rest of the way..with heavy metal POUNDING through the speakers with the windows down in order to keep me awake between coffee stops. The speedometer on that car stopped at 85, but I can guarantee we were well over 100 for close to 2.5 hours until I saw a sign for Lebanon 5 miles away! THANK GOD there were no cops running speed traps! I will also say imagine my surprise when I had a guy in a Mercedes go flying by me like I was standing still! I tried to match his speed, but I could hear my engine and knew I was about “peaked out”, so I gave up on that prospect! Like I said…not at all genius (unless you count my insistence of ALWAYS carrying a decent set of tools with me that has grown radically since that day) but a pretty interesting story none the less….
In a car, is there any reason why the AC outlet water isn't directed into the wiper fluid reservoir?
When your windshield washers aren't working, it's not only annoying, but it is a real safety issue. Here are some of the main reasons why you might not be able to squirt the dirt. Leaks are a pretty common problem. The washer fluid tank is made out of plastic and any crack in the plastic will allow the fluid to leak right out. Obviously replacing the tank is the fix in that case, but many times the leak is actually where the washer pump mounts to the side of the tank. There's usually a rubber grommet that's located between the pump and the plastic tank and if it is worn out or the pump itself has a crack in it, the fluid can leak out from there as well. Sometimes a leak can occur in one of the rubber hoses leading to the nozzles by the windshield. Have someone else press the button while you look at the rubber hoses under the hood and you will find the leaking line pretty quickly. There are plastic repair connectors that can be put in the rubber hose where it is split to connect them back together. You simply cut the hose in half and slide the connector in between to splice them back together. If the pump in the tank isn't making any noise when you press on the button, a fuse could be blown, the switch could be bad or the pump itself could be burned out. Check the fuse first and if it's in good shape, check to see if you have power at the pump when you press the switch. If there's no power at the pump, there's probably an issue with the switch. But if you have power to the pump and it still isn't working, replacing the pump should get your washers back in business. Once you get access to the washer tank, replacing the pump is usually pretty easy. Sometimes a squirter nozzle will become clogged over time and the washers will not squirt out at all. To find out if it's just the nozzle that's plugged, take the rubber hose off the nozzle and have someone press the button for the washers. If there is plenty of fluid pumping through the hose, you know it's the nozzle. A mechanic can usually use a small wire or compressed air to blow backwards through the nozzle to try to get it opened up, but if the nozzle has to be replaced, once again it's usually not a big deal. Simply pop out the old one and the new one will snap right in. Keep your washers in good shape because there still should be plenty of sloppy weather to deal with over the next few months.
Why are all my warning lights staying on, the fuel gage doesn't work, but the car still drives? This just happened recently but the warning lights never go off.
Every fuel tank has a Fuel sending unit attached to the top of the tank that's held in place by a locking ring Every fuel system is a little bit different, but what's not different is the two components on the fuel sending unit… The Float And the fuel pump So the end product end up looking something like this where the fuel pump is inside of that unit… Most people will just go buy a whole new unit instead of buying a separate fuel pump motor or the float because they dont understand what's going on, on the inside… but that's unnecessary ! The reason you still have a warning light on, Isnt because of the fuel pumps motor that pumps fuel to your engine so that the vapors can burn, Its because of this little floater doohickey Which just ,tells the driver how much fuel is left in the tank…, See that little variable resistor that allow the wiper to send a signal back the driver, Those like to fail… easy fix… your resistor Isnt making contact with the wiper… or it has fallen off… This means there’s no signal being sent to your ECU ( car computer ) to tell the fuel gauge to display the amount of fuel that's left in the tank… Now since the ECU Isn’t getting a signal from the resistor/wiper It’s reading 0 fuel, No signal… we all know a vehicle with 0 % fuel means It’s empty and it shouldn't be running, right… which means there’s an error because the vehicle is still running. Now keep in mind that the float Itself Isnt the problem, The float is just a weight that floats on top of the gas to allow the variable resistor and wiper to work correctly… So how does it work… and why does it only have 2 wires going to it… well, because power is applied to the float, so as it moves up and down, or back and forth, a positive / negative feedback is given to the ECU… Because all power sources have a positive ( + ) and negative ( — ) side If that's not the case, and your fuel gauge is still working, Then you might be getting a low voltage to the Fuel sending unit… in which an in depth wiring diagnosis is needed to find the short. If the fuel sending unit is getting enough power, The vehicle is running and the float is telling the driver it's got enough fuel., Then it could be your Charocoal Canister, Charocoal canister purge valve, or your charcoal canister vent valve What are the Charocoal Canister, Charocoal canister purge valve, and charcoal canister vent valve. Well the Charcoal canister is just filled with a bunch of carbon pellets that absorb the old fuel vapors from the tank so that new fresh vapors can fill the tank, This is directly attached to your fuel sending unit through a hose. The Charcoal canister Vent valve is used to regulate the Charcoal Cansiters contents and vent out the overflow And finally, The charcoal Canister purge valve sucks the old fuel vapours out of the charcoal canister and Into the combustion chamber to burn them off along with what the fuel pressure regulator is allowing Into the combustion chamber This is your fuel pressure regulator Yes, It’s attached to your fuel line by your fuel Injectors… But It will never touch your fuel… Its job is to apply ,vacuum pressure, to the fuel to regulate, it,… If you take the vacuum hose off of the regulator and It's got fuel in it or on it then there’s a vacuum leak, The diaphragm is bad or there’s an o-ring gasket that has failed… So yes, you have a fuel line that runs up to your fuel injectors, and is regulated by air and you have a Charcoal Canister fuel vapour line… They both contribute to keep your engine running smoothly and efficiently But thats not all… Your ,fuel sending unit, should also have a fuel pressure sensor attached to the top of it… This little sensor just tells the computer how much pressure is in the gas tank… A faulty fuel pressure sensor can cause a check engine light to come on telling the ECU that there’s a Fuel Leak… but theres not really a leak, The sensor is just faulty or the wires are frayed somewhere and It's not getting the right voltage, or someone may have used too big of a wire connector, and the power is getting lost in the connectors conductor… a bad and or inexperienced mechanic may even tell you that It's probably one of your Chorcoal components… But I highly doubt that you have a defective component on your Instrument cluster Because the Instrument cluster has a heating element that receives a signal from the float… But with that being said, The Instrument cluster does have a small logic board attached to the back of it on Ford vehicles… This little logic board is called a slosh or anti-slosh module and It's used to stabilize the voltage signals from the float… If this logic board ever goes bad, Then your fuel gauge will bounce around when you go up and down hills or over bumps… It may even fail completely causing the fuel gauge to read 0 or 1/2 tank when It's full… A quick fix would be to tape off some of the conductors But if you wanted to fix it right, You could have someone take it off the back of the Instrumemt cluster and take it Into a computer store where they test and replace capacitors, diodes and resistors everyday… All that's wrong with it, is a component failed, and It's having a hard time stabilizing the signal… In due time it will overload the other components on the logic board and the board will fail altogether. 1 ) is your power supply 2 ) is your Ground wire 3 ) is an extra pin (blank) 4 ) is your leveler in the fuel tank S ) is the wire that goes to the fuel gauge S and 4 can be jumped together, The others can be taped of as a temporary quick fix, This doesn't harm anything… It just tells the logic board “no thanks", I dont need your service. The variable resistor and wiper that attach to the float aren’t really necessary, It’s just convenience… Unless the error bothers you… If you just fill up once a week then you're probably safe from being stranded unexpectedly. If you're looking to just replace the float assembly, That's roughly a $3 — $5 dollar part so I doubt any auto parts stores sell it as a stand alone part… There's really no profit margin there… You'll probably have to go to a junk yard and ask for the unit, But even then. Theres no profit profit margin for them either… So your last resort would be a pick and pull junk yard… If it was me, I'd start with the anti-slosh module. _____________________________________________ UPDATE: 6/23/19 at 13:12 Central time, I miss read the question last night… I apologize, If all of your warning lights are staying on then there could be a problem with your alternator, or you have a short somewhere in your wiring… When you turn your Vehicle to ACC, The ECU does a system check, primes the fuel pump and allows the starter motor to engage the flywheel… All of the dashboard lights are on when the key is in ACC mode because you're only on battery power with no re-charge… (battery drain) When you start the vehicle, The alternator has to charge the battery with 13 to 15 volts because 12 volts of power cant charge a 12 volt battery… That's just not practical. So as your alternator starts to die over a long period of time, The charge starts to slowly drop or rise to high… If I had to guess, I'd say you're at the critical stages of around 11.7 and 12.7, where the alternator is struggling to survive… It’s almost like your key is in just the ACC mode again, Just using battery power with no charge But you can test the alternative by starting your car and putting your multimeter leads on the batteries positive and negative terminals, The multimeter should be set to DCV .. You shouldn't get a reading of more than .5 volts… Why, because the alternator uses AC volts, not DC voltages… Now switch your multimeter to AC volts and you should see between 13 to 15 volts when the light, radio, wipers, flashers and a/c are on. ================================== If the fuel gauge still reads 0 after you get the lights to go off, You're well aware now :D
How much money did you have to put into a beater car to get it fully operating?
I have two for your consideration. 2001 Kia Sephia. Three tires and rims $75. Two side windows $50. Replacement ignition lock cylinder $10 (junkyard pull, it still had the key in it). Two door keys $20. Windshield $275. Battery $60 (Walmart one year). Two windshield wipers $15. Fuel pump $56. Paid $100 to get car, we had to trailer it home, around $200 for costs to get home. 2002 Mazda Protege 5. EGR solenoid $9(junkyard). Wiring connectors $5. Vacuum hose $7. O2 sensors came with it or would have been around $20. Can of spray intake cleaner $4. Spark plug anti fouling adapters $16 (for the rear O2 sensor). Total around $61. Paid $600 to get the car, drove it home. Both cars run great! Edit: another 2001 Kia. $50 for tires. $60 for battery. Paid $100 for this one and drove it home.
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