costco undercoating
costco undercoating Post Review
This beach umbrella has a special aluminum undercoating that protects against the sun’s harmful rays & is rated UPF 50+. Save $5 on the Tommy Bahama 8′ Beach Umbrella at https://t.co/PdhdWgdV2c & select #Costco stores. Sale ends 5/24/20. https://t.co/9faeTi5nrO https://t.co/ADE9H2iOeg
@cheesetrader1 $500 for a nitrogen tire fill? The one that came free when I got tires at Costco? The other bits are scams, too. Today's version of undercoating.
@michaelmalice There’s this place called Costco. It’s like the bodega of the suburbs. Get a membership there and buy with their pre-negotiated price. Ohh, and someone told me once to not buy the undercoating.
costco undercoating Q&A Review
Will I save more money buying through a service like TrueCar, Costco, or CarsDirect, or should I negotiate my own deal?
If you are hard nosed, you can negotiate your own deal. It will be very time consuming. Go the edmunds.com, determine the invoice price, and decide how much over or under the invoice price you will bid. Stick with that bid. When you think you have a deal, and its a hour before closing, the dealer will tell you that the car you bid on has undercoating, or nitrogen filled tires, or pin striping, or some other nonsense. So if you walk away, you will have to start again at a different dealer. Car buying services probably offer the best compromise between price and time. Instead of paying a dealer for nitrogen in the tires, you are paying the service.
What is the cheapest way to get a new car?
Definitely! The car comes with a warranty from the factory. Paying for another level of warranty is frivolous unless they provide you with another free ride while repairs are underway. Otherwise it’s a money grab. Chances are it’s cheaper to rent at Alamo for a few days. Paying to additionally ‘mark’ each major part with a label- wasted money. Paying for addt’l clear coating on the paint? Really? Undercoating- if you are in a place that salts it’s roads in winter then it’s worth it. Otherwise no. Get your own bank approval for loan ahead of time. Then you know what you can afford, and the interest rate they will charge. So if the dealer offers financing it better be better than the bank! Know what your trade in vehicle is worth in retail dollars. Dealers only initially offer wholesale amount, so that’s a good place to dicker. Some dealers have no haggle pricing. Some people love that, but understand you don’t have to agree to it. The value they put on the trade is your say. You can walk away at any time. Keep your keys close at hand. If they hold them, call the cops. Ensure the dealer includes EVERYTHING you see on the car, the wheels & rims, stereo, mud mats, extra key fob, everything. Engine, seats! They can try to come back in a few weeks saying they really didn’t include those tires, that radio etc- wanting you to bring it back to swap them out. Wrong! Don’t fall for it. It’s a scam tactic. Tell em to pound sand. Also know that once you sign for their financing, it’s a final deal- they can’t call you back in a week and demand $2k more cause the first ‘banker’ denied the financing afterwards. That’s a scam. Tough titties.
What are the best bargaining techniques when buying a car from a dealer?
Number one answer from my end is be prepared to walk away. the second part comes from a question from me. Do you want the absolute best deal or do you want a good or great deal? Or, do you just NOT want to pay what suckers pay? The easiest, not the absolute best that you can do, but easy and clean is to use something like Costco to purchase the car. Typically, they have a deal with certain dealer to sell at a fixed price above invoice. 200 to say 500 above invoice - which will be possibly at least a thousand or 2 or 3 less than MSRP (depends on the price of the car, of course) - which leaves the dealer any holdbacks from the manufacturer, makes them a couple hundred bucks that they will make more on in parts and service, is a very clean no fuss buying experience. You can do a similar deal by researching prices and just asking for the Internet Salesperson. This does not make you immune to upselling (of warranties, services, undercoating BS) and the like. Nor does it get you the best price for your trade in. I would research my trade in - and perhaps go to Carmax and get an offer from them. You have a couple of days that they will honor the offer. This gives you a bottom line price of what you would except from the dealer because you know you have a buyer at Carmax. This wont be the best deal you could get, but it surely is clean and quick - and does give you an idea of what trade value is. anything else you want to try to get like extended warranty is up to you. This way is easy and virtually painless. Can you do better? of course you can, but that depends on how much you enjoy haggling and working the system. As others have pointed out = there are better times and days to make deals - if you were to combine the above with say end of the Quarter and at a dealer than needed to sell more cars….. you might get some other add-ons and possibly a better trade deal than the first of the following month. This internet strategy isn’t as much fun - if you thinking haggling is fun, but it does work quite well for those that aren’t good bargaining. You’ll get a good deal. Not the world’s best deal, but likely better than the deal 90% of the people out there are getting. Maybe 95% of them. I’d love to hear from some sales folks on the efficacy of this. I would think that most sales folks would hate it as it cuts out potential profit or earnings for them. On the other hand. It is probably about as pain free for them as for you.
Is Costco a good place to buy a car?
It is a starting point. Go build your car on the Manufacturers web site and you will not find anything near that vehicle unless you are going high end. Built a F-150 on line for about $40K. Everything I was offered was $50K-$60K and had all kinds of options I had no interest in, e.g. sliding rear window (my current F-150 has a sliding rear window that has not been used in 15 years). If you don’t like to hassle? Hire a broker. Like to hassle? Build your vehicle and print it out or download it. Send it to the local dealers for a bid. When you get your bids you can compare. I have picked the top three, told them they were the final three and asked for a best-and-final bid. I have had to wait for the vehicle to be ordered, I have received items I did not care about (the sliding rear window in my F-150), etc. Now play hardball. Do not be afraid to walk. My policy is to NEVER go to the dealer until the deal is finalized. The dealer wants to get you into the dealership so they can play all their games. Don’t do it. I go to sign the paperwork and give them a check. Still be wary as the Finance Manager will try to add items on with a, “I was not told you did not want that paint seal, undercoating, extended warranty, etc.” “It’s all ready on the vehicle… “Not my f…. issue, you eat it.” The FM’s job is to separate you from as much money as possible, don’t let the FM do it. Check every line of the sales contract.
HOME