The common knowledge about smaller capacity turbocharged engines is that they are fuel efficient.
While most of us suffer from empty fuel tank anxiety the moment the fuel gauge drops to 2 bars, some
It was nice while it lasted, but now the inevitable has happened: both petrol and diesel fuel prices
Another week and its time for the weekly fuel price update.
Mazda Corporation has announced a worldwide product recall to replace its fuel pump as a precautionary
Adaptive cylinder control, direct petrol injection with central injector position and an intelligently
Back then, UMW claims that the new engine was an effort for better fuel efficiency, and the Yaris definitely
Nissan claims that the rated fuel consumption for the Nissan X-Trail 2.0L is 13.4km/litre, which translates
Then the Proton X70’s 60-litre fuel tank was brimmed.Driving behaviour was as per a normal driver
Toyota claimed improved fuel consumption compared to the previous powertrain, but by how much?
The only question is, will fuel cell technology catch on with battery?
Sources of fuel leaks include loose connections in the fuel system, old hoses, faulty seals, or just
fuel additives?
Fuel prices see a 3 sen increase for petrol and 4 sen increase for diesel.The fuel prices for the upcoming
Check your tyre pressureThis is the easiest way to save fuel.
The inevitable fuel price increase is upon us all.
Fuel prices see a 3 sen increase for petrol and 4 sen increase for diesel.The fuel prices for the upcoming
Proton has revealed the measures to counteract it with use of silent high-pressure fuel pump, injector
Fuel prices will remain unchanged for this week, announced the Ministry of Finance today.The fuel prices
Its complete nuts-and-bolts stuff, with things such as a 3D-measured and refreshed body frame, new wiring
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Soldering is a quick fix, it will work but rats wount not go away. your problem is Rats, better replace the cable or solder the wire if on budget and then try some Rat treatment.
I am not sure why you would want to mess with the injector wiring. LEAVE IT ALONE. The injectors are timed to match the speeds of the engine and the cycle that it follows. If you do change the wires around, then you now have two injectors that are no longer in sync with the engine, thereby having two cylinders that are not producing any power and the engine may not even start.
If you do it correctly, then it will be fixed. So to answer your question, the answer is, it will be fixed. Hope this helps.
Q: Can I wire a couple fuel injectors to shut off with a switch to save gas? A: Since you will only be “shutting off” the fuel and not the “air” the engine control system will simply ,attempt, to compensate for the lean mixture the exhaust sensors now detect by increasing injector pulse length. This will do several basic things. 1) immediately “undo your attempt at fuel saving”, 2) grossly enrich the remaining cylinders resulting in poor combustion even further reducing power, 3) the reduced power from the fuel in “2” means you press the throttle harder to maintain speed, INCREASING fuel consumption for the same distance traveled. and 4) the poor combustion process results in “engine codes” being set, pollution increases and more money spent to repair the car and buy fuel and in worst case replace the catalytic converter. So you can wire them, but you won’t save gas and will learn an expensive lesson.
You may have either a loss of compression or a shorted injector wiring loom or short circuit in the PCM,the igniter module may be faulty as well !
Get an Actron CP9690 code tester. It works on OBDI and OBDII. Graphing shows oxygen sensor activity. Live can show the coolant temperature sensor accuracy. Emissions readiness test (I/M monitor) shows systems that have a fault to pass or fail an emissions test. I/M monitor test shows systems incomplete test or o.k. Live test can show the EGR % open. On some cars, it can show the inlet temperature of the EGR exhaust and outlet temperature of EGR exhaust. That can show if the EGR is clogged or not opening. Code-connect diagnoses codes and shows top solutions to codes. See what the tester says. Try KOEO and KOER. That shows problems present. Check for proper timing. Are the wires on right? The throttle position sensor can be bad. Disconnect the EGR valve hose and plug it if it has one and see what happens. The EGR can be sticking open. If it is open at idle cold, it can be the EGR or purge valve. See if there's vacuum at idle cold. If so, it's the purge valve. With the engine reved and warm, there should be vacuum. Then, when you back it off to idle, there shouldn't be vacuum. EBAY has the tester. Launch has a tester that checks EVERYTHING on a car! EBAY has it. It's the X431 V Pro 4.0. It's $830.00. It'll check relays, SRS, ABS, power lock, sunroof, power seat reset, fuel pump test, power balance, graphing, intelligent test, and MORE! It works on OBDI and OBDII. EBAY has it. There are several similar from Launch.
P0301 is a code for a misfire on #1 cylinder. You start by verifying there is a misfire on #1 cylinder. Testing should be based on the misfire conditions. You also have the benefit of comparing a known good cylinder with a misfiring one. If the misfire is present under all conditions you should probably start with a compression test on that cylinder, assuming you have ignition spark at the end of the plug wire. The result can be compared with the cylinder next to it that is not misfiring. Compression tests should also include running compression while you are there. Take the two plugs out, the good cylinder, the bad cylinder, do the compression test on those two and compare the results. When you put the spark plugs back, switch holes. If the compression is the same on both then it isn’t a mechanical compression related problem and if you misfire stays on the same cylinder with the spark plug now in a different hole, it isn’t a spark plug problem. Spark at the plug boot, good compression and good plug all determined without changing all the plugs, coils or wires, see? Injectors can be more difficult due to access. You want to determine there is a injector signal at the connector and that the injector is working. Sometimes you can put the end of a screwdriver on the injector body and your ear to the handle, listen for the “click” from the injector. If the injector is clicking it is getting power and ground pulse. If it isn’t then you may have either no power to the connector or no ground pulse to the connector. If a noid light shows you have signals yet the injector isn’t pulsing then you have a bad injector. If the injector is clicking it could still be a bad injector with a poor spray pattern. That you cant see. Like I said, the injectors can be trickier to test. If you have to sometimes you can swap injectors good to bad cyls to see if the misfire moves but on some cars if you get that far it is easier to just replace the suspect injector while you are there. Lots of ways to test injectors electrically but still sometimes a swap is what you have to do. Now if your misfire is not always there but is intermittent you want to test under the conditions. A low speed miss that goes away when rpms are raised could be a vacuum leak. Check for a vacuum leak. An intermittent miss under light load could be ignition related even though spark is fine otherwise. Usually a plug or wire. So try the swap and see if the misfire moves. A intermittent misfire under a heavy load could be a bad coil. Monitor the spark. You have so many options and so many testing methods that don’t involve replacing everything you can think of blindly. Use logic and a procedure.
As already stated, it’s a Cylinder 2 Misfire Engine type and year not listed nor mileage, so that would help a lot to know! What causes the P0302 code? Defective spark plug in cylinder 2 - easiest to check, get a new spark plug and test again. Lack of compression in cylinder 2 - use a compression tester or have it done. Probably not, unless you have a engine with many miles > 150,000 Damaged or worn out spark plug wires and/or coils - install a new plug wire first. If it still throws the same code, swap coils if you have multiple coils and see if it transfers to the swapped one. Damaged or worn out distributor cap (does not apply to all vehicles - that’s why knowing more details could help). Just install a new cap. Damaged or worn out rotor/button (same comment as above). Just install a new rotor/button Defective fuel injectors - probably not but you’d need to replace that injector and see if it still does this. Following unlikely and mostly for high mileage engines if none of the above cure the problem. Clogged EGR valves or tubes Burned valves Ignition timing that is inaccurate - check timing, unlikely on newer cars Vacuum leaks - also unlikely on newer car Leaking head gasket
In checking the fuel injectors, with a test light, the red wire lights up bright. The second wire lights up but doesn’t flash as it should. Why? Are you checking it with the injector plugged in or disconnected?? If it’s plugged in, the test light will show voltage that is ,coming through, the injector.. If it doesn’t flash when you crank the engine, then the ECM is not grounding (activating) the injector..