isuzu overheating problem
isuzu overheating problem Related Articles
Things that surprised us in the 2020 Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Premium
I must admit, that was exactly what I did to the Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Premium when it turned up for a scrap
Up to 6 months deferred instalments for a new Isuzu D-Max
Isuzu Malaysia is paving the path to normalcy for potential Isuzu D-Max customers by offering a moratorium
Kitted-up 2020 Isuzu D-Max revealed, but not for us yet
marque showcased dressed up versions of their cars.Isuzu turned up the heat at their booth with modified Isuzu
All-new 2021 Isuzu D-Max – Malaysian-spec to get ACC with stop and go
Set to be launched in Malaysia before the end of April, Isuzu Malaysia has revealed preliminary specifications
Current Isuzu D-Max in Malaysia selling out fast, all-new model coming sooner than expected?
Back in early-2020, we reported that the all-new RG-generation Isuzu D-Max won’t be arriving in
Here’s why you shouldn’t open the radiator cap of an overheating car
been in that situation before when we have to stop at the side of the road because your engine was overheating
Isuzu is the only truck that scientists in Antarctica trust their lives with, here’s why
The only continent where Isuzu has no market presence in is Antarctica, except that Isuzu is wrong.OK
The Blue Monster Isuzu D-Max survived the Borneo Safari
Isuzu’s new pup proved its worth in the gruelling Borneo Safari challenge and even gets given the
All-new Isuzu D-Max launched in Thailand
Isuzu Thailand has just taken the wraps off the all-new D-Max, just a week after teasing the all-new
When Isuzu made sports cars – 117 Coupe, Piazza, Gemini
Isuzu is currently the worlds biggest manufacturer of diesel engines.
Toyota is now best friends with Isuzu, takes 8% share, JV for next-gen connected trucks
Isuzu FL-IR concept is an autonomous driving truckToyota and its commercial trucks subsidiary Hino have
What's so special about the Isuzu D-Max's new 1.9L turbodiesel engine?
Isuzu Malaysia recently took the covers off the updated Isuzu D-Max, now equipped with the company&rsquo
Spied in Malaysia: All-new third gen 2022 Isuzu D-Max
The all-new third generation Isuzu D-Max has been spotted in Malaysia.
This Isuzu D-Max "Blue Monster" will take on Borneo Safari!
While Malaysians are still getting acquainted with Isuzu’s new D-Max 1.9, Isuzu has already completed
Isuzu Buy and Win campaign concludes with two lucky winners
The Isuzu D-Max Buy and Win contest that ran between April and June 2019 saw Ghanie Entalang of Sebauh
In Brief: New Isuzu D-Max 2019, now with 1.9L BluePower Ddi engine
First launched in 2011, the current generation Isuzu D-Max is the oldest pick-up truck in the segment
Over 40k units sold in Q1 2021, Isuzu D-Max crushes Hilux, Ranger, Triton in Thailand
The all-new 2021 Isuzu D-Max is trampling over rivals in Thailand, ending Q1 2021 with 40,222 units sold
Scoop: All-new 2021 Isuzu MU-X patent images leaked!
The Isuzu MU-X, the D-Maxs SUV cousin has been in production since 2013 with a facelift introduced in
All-new 2020 Isuzu D-Max begins export; Australia first, Europe to follow
Isuzu Motors Limited has announced that export of their popular pick-up truck, the Isuzu D-Max has begun
Launching in Malaysia in April, 2021 Isuzu D-Max priced from RM 89K
Isuzu Malaysia has announced that bookings of the all-new 2021 Isuzu D-Max will open today and the brand-new
isuzu overheating problem Post Review
Isuzu diesel workshop pretoria: Hi Guys, My Father in laws 1996 280dt has an overheating problem, when driv... https://t.co/V8MGnVriXk
isuzu overheating problem Q&A Review
Is it okay to let your diesel engine run at idle for 30 minutes to an hour?
Yes it is,no problem,IF is it not overheating,that is to say,if the radiator fan and its controls are in good shape,along with everything else; it’s still a risk if no one is in it to watch the temp. gauge… I have one Isuzu Trooper (Opel Monterey in europe)3.1 td (I have 2 of those actually, one 2 door,short,the RSband one 4 door,long,the LTD,both from 1994) that I have left idling for over 1 hour inthe heat of August (high 30s ºC) many times,in the course of my work, with the A/C on Max,and when i return ,the temp.gauge is still in the middle, and the interior of the “car” is like a freezer; the A/C has never been charged,never needed any work,it was very well built; the troopers have a heavy duty viscous “vicious” fan that cools everything…
Is it bad for my engine if I drive with low fuel all the time?
Of course not, you just can not damage it, (even if you try hard) there is a lot of work done by the designers (of all car makers, all gasoline powered vehicles, all time, all type engines to prevent this from happening. (otherwise they would have told you so in the owners manual to avoid punishment from the DOT and OSHA) Since 1970 (that's as far as I know of) there is absolutely NOT even a single owner manual (of any car manufacturer in the entire world) that recommends (or EVEN SUGGESTS) something similar to “keep the tank to at least 1/4 full to avoid such and such related problems”. Nonsense, vehicles were ever since made with the simple logic of the most possible “distance independence” to be used, (if required, but don't do it if you don't have to) to the last drop of available fuel in the tank. That distance independence is mostly relying upon the tank capacity (among other variables) but it is never limited to 1/4 of the fuel tank. Modern vehicles with fuel injection engines are equipped with electric fuel pumps that are submerged in the fuel and by doing so, it actually helps the pumps cool themselves. There is also another way of keeping the pumps from overheating and this is accomplished by passing the cool fuel through the attached "in line" pump's motor. Through the years, engineers have improved the design so that the actual pump-motor assembly is contained in a small (about 1 liter) reservoir inside the tank in order to keep them “always” cool and to prevent them from going dry while hard cornering and even when ascending/descending steep highways with low fuel tank levels. You can see the images by yourself just by googling the words “fuel pump assembly reservoir”. You can also watch the following video about the same; even if you don't speak Spanish the images are easy to follow and understand and are mostly self explanatory Earlier models used to have the fuel pressure regulator located at the very end of the injector rails, returning the excess fuel some how "warmer", but the cooling effect of the big areas of the tank allowed to dissipate that extra heat. Newer designs always have the in-tank pressure regulator overcoming that issue since they are fuel return-less. Most modern fuel tanks are not metal made and corrosion is almost zero since they are airtight and normally pressurized (they have a very low pressure mainly for evap emissions control and a missing fuel cap will soon turn your check engine light) Older fuel injection vehicles (1980's) without closed reservoirs had the pumps located inside an open tray type recipient kind of a sump and the baffles that prevent the fuel from sloshing and splashing around in the tank, with some kind of early trap or check valve for the same purposes as the new reservoirs. Much earlier, on carburetor equipped engines, a small bowl contained inside the carburetor, provided fuel supply for a while, even if the mechanical actuated pump could start sucking air on a low level fuel tank during steep highways just to restore liquid fuel supply once the descending/climbing situation resumed. Don't worry about debris. Sand type and other small debris live forever on the bottom of the fuel tanks, gasoline is always sucked from the bottom even if you have a full tank. Solid matter and small particles that can not enter the primary strainer/ micro particle filter will stay out of the container. The smaller particles that can go through the first filter will not be allowed into the pump for there is another tougher microfiber filter before the pump inside the container. In American made vehicles, I have found that after many years of usage, the main reason for a fuel pump failure is “overheating after prolonged usage with clogged inlet filters” (both, primary and secondary filters) and contrary to what you can expect, the filters are not clogged with debris that you can ordinarily see with your naked eyes, it is kind of an oily chemical matter that comes dissolved (therefore you can't see it) in the gasoline from the refinery process and that goes accumulating trough the years (after thousands of gallons been fed through) in the EXAGGERATED micro fiber filters that American automakers provided as a matter of “extra protection” for the fuel injectors. (see the attached pictures, the filter on the left are MUCH LESS PRONE to this kind of clogging) Until very recently, (after starting using the same kind of “better filters”) Asian made cars and pick up trucks, (Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Isuzu, Honda, Kia, Mazda, Daewoo, etc., etc.) have come to my shop to replace the fuel pump (In more than 30 years offering service) Before the previous 5 years I have never had a problem with them. I suspect that those fuel pumps were better prepared and protected with filters that were not so prone to be clogged by chemical substances inherent to the fuel refinement processes.
Which heavy duty diesel engine is the most reliable: Powerstroke, Duramax, or Cummins?
It depends. Strap in, this is going to be long, and not really tl;dr-able. Let’s go through each make and engine. I’ll go into a brief history of each engine, and power figures (excluding for medium duty trucks with a milder tune for reliability and to account for different equipment) will be included. Starting with Ford, and the International-Harvester IDI (pre-PowerStroke engines) The 6.9 and 7.3 IDIs were absolutely solid, if not a bit wheezy due to their indirect injection and (except as an option for 1993 and 1994 7.3 IDIs) natural aspiration. Some 7.3 IDIs did have cavitation problems with the wrong coolant (someone feel free to correct me here) due to them boring out the 6.9 block. 1983–1987 6.9 IDI motors made 170hp/338lb-ft 1988–1994 7.3 IDI (naturally aspirated) motors made 185hp/360lb-ft 1993–1994 7.3 IDIT (turbocharged) motors made 190hp/388lb-ft Then the International T444E came in in 1994.5, better known as the 7.3L PowerStroke. These are half-a-million mile motors as most anyone can contest. They used an innovative HEUI (Hydraulic-Electronic Unit Injection) system. The 1994.5–97 motors were hot-air (no intercooler) and had a mechanical fuel pump. In 1999 (with the introduction of the F-250 and up being split into the SuperDuty line), it got an intercooler, an electronic fuel pump, and split-shot injectors. In 2001-ish they switched to the (theoretically stronger) powder metal rods instead of the (proven to be) stronger forged metal rods. 1994.5–1995 - 210hp/425lb-ft 1996-215/450 1997-1998 - 225/450 1999-2000 - 235/500 2001–2002 (auto) - 250/505 2001–2003 (manual) - 275/525 2003 (auto) - 275/525 In 2003.5, Ford introduced the International VT365, or as they branded it, the 6.0L PowerStroke. HEUI continued in the 6.0L. The 2003.5–2004 motors were not very good, and people were upset with the smaller displacement, despite better fuel economy and power (assisted by the variable-geometry turbocharger and 4 valve per cylinder heads). In 2004.5, after a myriad of upgrades, through to 2007, these motors were much better, though were still prone to the head gasket failure issues of the previous motors. After “bulletproofing” them, they can outlast 7.3s. 2003.5-2004 - 325hp/560lb-ft 2005–2007 - 325/570 Here comes 2008, and the MaxxForce7 (6.4 PowerStroke) engine. They were effectively (not exactly) bored out 6.0s with a different HPOP, common-rail fuel injection, and sequential turbochargers instead of a single variable-geometry unit. These motors are awful, and very unreliable, mostly due to the new emissions control systems. When entering regeneration mode to clean out the DPF, cylinder number 8 would have extra fuel injected to be pushed out during the exhaust stroke, leading to higher EGTs (some trucks even had flames shooting out of the exhaust from what I’ve read), worse fuel economy (because it wasn’t abhorrent enough) damage to the cylinder, and could eventually melt the piston if something went wrong. Mild improvements were made for 2008.5 but they didn’t remedy the unreliability. Some trucks went through 4 or 5 engines before the warranty ran out. The ones that still last are lucky. However, these motors are powerhouses and can make 1000whp on stock internals. 2008–2010 - 350hp/650lb-ft After the PR disaster that was the 6.4, Ford decided to make their own diesel engine, the 6.7L PowerStroke. Introduced for 2011, it was an all-new design, and International had nothing to do with it, unlike the previous motors. 2011–2013 models were known for having turbocharger bearing failure issues, but later years fixed that. These motors aren’t as strong as the 6.4, but can still handle 700whp. Ford has announced that they’ve added a few new clever bits for more efficient combustion (better fuel economy and more power on the same tune). Overall, they’ve proven to be a good compromise in reliability and power like the later 6.0 units. 2011 (original) - 390hp/735lb-ft 2011 (updated) - 2014 - 400/800 2015–2016 - 440/860 2017 - 440/925 2018–2019 - 450/935 Ok, now on to Chevy. I don’t know as much about Chevy or Cummins engines, so these parts will be briefer. Again, we’re starting before the Duramax. The Oldsmobile 5.7 (350ci) Diesel V8 had one job, to get good fuel economy. It was… ok. Some say it was a converted Rocket 350 gasser. It wasn’t very durable with the 22:1 compression, but at least got the job done. 105hp/205lb-ft Then, General Motors’ diesel-specialist, Detroit Diesel, designed a unique diesel motor, and it was one of their first four-stroke motors (this was a problem). These motors were also made for fuel economy, and you could get 20mpg on the highway, even in a C/K30 or a Suburban. The 6.2L diesel was first, and it was replaced in 1992 with the 6.5L diesel. A turbocharger was optional, and most buyers opted for it. Again, it wasn’t made to compete with the PowerStroke from Ford and the Cummins in Dodges, but it was meant to have good pulling power with good fuel economy. Some people accuse these motors and the Duramax series of not being ‘real’ diesels due to their oversquare Bore/Stroke ratio. The 6.5 is still being produced for marine and military use. 1992–1993 6.5s had a mechanical rotary fuel pump, and it was switched to an electronic rotary pump in 1994. Both variants of the Detroit light-duty motor had problems with the main bearings cracking, the harmonic balancer, vibration-dampening pulley, and the dual mass flywheel. The 6.5 had problems with the oil cooling lines failing and the pump mounted driver overheating. 1982–1989 6.2L - 130hp/240lb-ft 1989–1991 6.2L - 160/285 6.2L (HMMWV) - 185/330 1992–1999 (natural) - 155/340 1992–1999 (turbocharged) - 215/440 After all of this, GM decided to make a diesel that was meant to pull. And they did well. <sidenote> I have a hard time seeing these trucks with the first gen Duramax as actually being diesels, or pickup trucks because my grandparents drove Suburbans from this generation, and I’m used to them being in their SUV form </sidenote>. The DMAX program/division came from a joint project with Isuzu, creating an oversquare 6.6L turbocharged V8 with 4 valves per cylinder. The first engine (as known by the RPO code) is called the LB7 and was prone to injector failure, overheating, and blown head gaskets. 2001–2004 - 300hp/520lb-ft Introduced for 2004.5, the LLY Duramax (all DMAX motors are 6.6L) added an EGR valve to comply better with emissions. Learning from the LB7, GM changed the valve covers for easier access to the injectors in case of failure. The successor, LBZ, is effectively an LLY in a ‘hotter’ state of tune and is renowned for its durability and ability to make loads of power. 2004–2006 (LLY) - 305hp/605lb-ft 2006.5–2007 (LBZ) - 360/650 In 2008, the LMM replaced the LBZ Duramax. Improvements include a more efficient variable geometry turbocharger, enhanced EGR and crankcase ventilation, the addition of a DPF, increased coolant capacity, and use of low-ash engine oil. 2008–2010 - 365hp/660lb-ft Come 2011, the LML Duramax came in, with the addition of a DEF system for better emissions. Piston oil flow design was changed for better temperature control, and oil pump design was changed for better durability. The LGH was a detuned version for vans and chassis-cab trucks. 2011–2016 (LML) - 397hp/765lb-ft 2011–2016 (LGH) - 335/685 In 2017, the latest generation Duramax, the L5P was introduced and is the most powerful Duramax yet. 2017–2019 - 445hp/910lb-ft Design specification can exceed 550hp/1050lb-ft. Now, Dodge and Cummins. The 5.9L, 12 valve 6BT Cummins was introduced in 1989 is renowned as an indestructible, million-mile motor, that could also make insane power. It’s popular for sled pulls and drag racing due to it’s ‘one-wire’ capability with a mechanical fuel injection system, and it’s fantastic capacity for power. There are triple-turbo units running around with over 2000hp. 1989–1993 - 160hp/400lb-ft 1994–1995 (auto) - 160/400 1994–1995 (manual) - 175/420 1996–98 (auto) - 180/420 1996–98 (man) - 215/440 In 1998, the 6BT was supplanted with the ISB 5.9L, often called the ’24 valve’ motor due to its 4 valve per cylinder head. They were in use from 1998.5–2007. Early ISB motors had a Bosch electronic fuel pump, and later they switched to common rail injection. It’s not quite as reliable as the 12 valve, but still really solid. 1998–2000 (auto) - 215hp/420lb-ft 1998–2000 (man) - 235/460 2001–03 (-04 in California) - 235/460 2001–03 (HO - high output) - 245/505 2004 (std) - 305/555 2004 (HO) - 325/600 2005–2007 - 325/610 In 2007.5, the B6.7, or ISB 6.7L Cummins was introduced and is the largest straight-six in a light-duty truck. It has added emissions equipment, starting with a DPF, and then a DEF unit. When paired to the Daimler-Benz G56 transmission, torque is limited to prevent clutch damage. High-Output is only available when paired to the Aisin 6 speed automatic. As Cummins motors tend to be, it’s really reliable. 2007.5–2012 (man) - 350hp/610lb-ft 2007.5–2010 (auto) - 350/650 2011–2019 (auto) - 370/800 2013–2018 (man, discontinued after 2018) - 350/660 2013–2014 (HO) - 385/850 2015 (HO) - 385/865 2016–17 (HO) - 385/900 2018 (HO) - 385/930 2019 (HO) - 400/1000 (first light-duty pickup truck with 1000lb-ft of torque)
I sold a classic car and the buyer called me half hour later stating it overheated. Should he get his money back? The buyer says he no longer wants the car.
It's a used car, if the fool didn't take it to a shop, that's his problem. There's no warranty, unless you made one, by promising it was in good shape. I had an old Isuzu truck, I put a new motor in it. So I guaranteed it was running very well. Some guy backed out because he apparently got ripped off in the past. I explained it to him, that if I'm lying about it, he can get his money back. Told him, bring a mechanic, they come out for a small fee. Take it to a shop, he could have saved a good four grand, he was looking for a new motor on his truck. I sold it to someone who got a great deal. Though I also nhad some, who wanted to overload it. Told him, if you do that, it will blow up. That's why I had to replace the motor in the first place, and I sold it because I knew it would happen again, the guys I work with don't understand you can't just throw anything that will fit. When I had the transmission done the second time, the guy said a customer installed a refer box on the truck, and loaded it up with sausages. He broke the crankshaft in half, twice. I don't know what car you had, and what condition it was in, either way, he bought it, so it's his problem.
Is it true that manual shift cars are more expensive than automatic shift cars in America?
Autos might be very popular in the USA but here in Australia the manual gearbox is still very popular. I've driven both, and prefer the manual. Our current Isuzu Dmax manual is an excellent tow vehicle for our caravan. Owners of Ford Ranger and BT50 pickup trucks with autos regularly report gearbox overheating problems when towing - limp mode is no fun. I once towed a overheated fully loaded Ford Ranger auto plus it's 3tonne caravan up a steep winding road for 5 km with my manual Dmax , that's 9 tonnes all up. No problem for the 3 liter diesel and manual gearbox. Try that with an auto gearbox and YOU will be in limp mode! I also drive semi trucks with 18 speed manual gearboxes (great on the open road when you can select the best gear for any hill), and have driven Volvo trucks with 12 speed Autos (very nice in city areas). 21 million VW beetles were built with manual gearboxes. A few hundred thousand were built with semi-autos, mostly for the US market. Nothing cheap or nasty about manual gearboxes.
Is Toyota more reliable than Isuzu in terms of diesel engines?
Isuzu is a brand known for its diesel engines as well as tough pickups, versatile SUVs, and reliable trucks. The said products enabled this Japanese automaker to be one of the most popular car brands globally. It stood the test of time by believing in what it wants to achieve and by constantly finding ways to innovate its strengths, which are the diesel as mentioned above engines, pickups, SUVs, and trucks. The Japanese automaker launched its new RZ4E Blue Power diesel engine in 2015 in Thailand, which is said to deliver improved fuel economy and cleaner exhaust emission. The said engine was first introduced in the Philippines last March 2018, and it is now equipped in the 2018 D-Max, mu-X, and its truck fleet. With that, here is the story of how Isuzu began its journey into becoming a global brand. Isuzu engines are engineered to produce an understated power and torque output to create a de-stressed environment, therefore reducing engine wear and promoting component longevity. The reliability is determined by creating the optimum fuel/air mixture and ensuring that the heat generated by the combustion process is constant and also dissipated uniformly. Isuzu engine design efforts are aimed at generating maximum torque at low engine speeds—under 2000 rpm—because at those speeds fuel consumption is at its most economical and the engine’s response characteristics are perceived as positive; i.e., it has good ‘pulling power’. Lets look at the reliability of one of their engnies and see why their diesel engines are reliable. The 4JJ1 has a scissor gear (split design) camshaft drive gear, which eliminates backlash on deceleration and results in reduced wear. Our engines’ connecting rods have large big-end bearings, making them stronger and therefore last longer. And we use robust cast roller rocker arms with larger roller bearings, plus roller pivot bearings, reducing friction and making them longer wearing—some manufacturers use pressed metal roller rockers with small roller bearings and no pivot bearings. In contrast, other manufacturers like toyota use no rockers at all. Toyota engines have an absolutely brilliant record for reliability, whether they or petrol or diesel. They haven't suffered many of the problems that have afflicted diesel engine ranges here in South Africa for various reasons (often due to hard high-altitude running and low fuel quality). The most reliable toyota engine ever made has to be the 2.8L non turbo diesel engine from the L-family (3L engine, the L is not liters its the family) followed closely by the GD engine family. Other than that the 1kzte engine on the hilux and hilux surf/4runner is decent but I’ve heard tragic stories of isses with overheating caused by Failure of the viscous fan hub – this is generally noticed by temperatures rising when ascending hills or during stop/start traffic on hot days, blockage of the radiator, seizure of the wastegate actuator resulting in overboost, a hole in the heater hose and too much load on the cooling system – a worn torque converter may contribute to this. Cylinder head crack or head gasket issues caused by small bubbles in coolant system, pushing coolant into the overflow bottle, consumption and discolouration of coolant, rapid overheating, rough running and a loss of power. The isuzu 4jj1t-c motor, I’ve heard it has issues with the suction valve and a few suspension components like the bushings but in Australia the recalls of the injectors and injector seals by toyota hilux 1kdftv is a huge thing. Other problems with the 1kdftv engine by toyota are nlow-by gases enter the tappet cover and mix with the engine oil - this bakes and carbonises the engine oil, blow-by gases block the oil sump pick-up, the engine can be starved of oil, the lack of lubrication cause excessive friction and heat, causing the bottom end bearings to melt and engine failure. However, if both are well taken care of and you do preventative maintenance, they can both last a long time. Isuzu makes great diesel engines that are cockroaches and they deserve more recognition from the diesel world. Toyota has shown to be reliable across the board with their engines petrol and diesel.
My Isuzu kb300 turbo diesel has got a problem of overheating?
Check for the following: Coolant loss Faulty thermostat. Blocked radiator. Leaking headgasket possibly associated with 1. Erroded or broken water pump impeller Less likely but possible cracked cylinder head or block and will have symptoms of 1 and 4.
What is the most reliable car in terms of driving a used car and having to maintain it?
You’ll get a lot of opinions. I can’t say with authority. But I can tell you about some of the vehicles I have owned. (4) different Honda Civics (1995, 1999, 2006, 2008). Rock solid reliable. Drove one 240K, sold it, it went another 100K before it was destroyed in an accident. Parts cheap, readily available, easy to work on. 1990’s Toyota Corolla. It couldn’t be killed. It ran forever. It was bulletproof. Parts cheap, readily available, easy to work on. (2) Porsches, a 1986 944, and a 1979 924. Reliable, but expensive to repair. They MUST be properly maintained if you want them to run well and last. Parts are expensive too. Much higher maintenance than say a Honda Civic. But the REAL problem with used Porsches is there are a lot out there that have not been maintained well. Then the new owner starts to have to repair years of deferred maintenance. Buy the best example you can find. Don’t buy without records showing that ALL recommended maintenance has been performed. (2) Chevy Silverados (2000 & 2001). Both were very reliable, even past 200K. Did replace the AC, but that happens to any car given long enough. Had to have fuel injectors cleaned once. Fuel pump replaced at 190K. Other than that, nothing, It just drives. (2) VW Beetles. 1975 one was VERY reliable. The 2002, not so much. Lots of electrical woes and left me stranded more than a few times. Expensive to repair. I am not buying another VW anytime soon! 05 Chrysler Town & Country. 244K and still going strong. No repairs other than routine maintenance. 1993 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 manual transmission. Rock Solid, was a Tank. 1992 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 automatic transmission. The Trans broke and was going to cost more than the vehicle was worth. 1989 Ford Escort. AC replaced twice. Alternator replaced twice, transmission failed, all at less than 120K miles. 1994 Isuzu pickup. developed a slow coolant leak and never showed it was overheating since water level had dropped below coolant sensor. This was at 70K miles. Not sure if that was a fluke or design flaw. Fixed the truck, it never broke again, sold it and saw it around town for years after that. 1995 Plymouth Acclaim. You just couldn’t kill this car. It ran forever. We sold it, and it ran for a Second Forever.
Why are Ford Rangers so often sought after? What makes them good trucks?
Marketing. Faulty Or Repair Daily. Once I bought a Ford Ranger. It will never happen again. Why? It is not intelligently designed for maintenance. Changing a driveshaft boot is major surgery. After 5 years, you can expect to retire the car. They will either develop a leaking gasket or an overheating problem. Chronic. Look around. Can you see any OLD Ford Rangers? Usually the most powerful engine with a stonking turbo. Read reduced lifespan. Avoid the Mazda too. Same damn engine. Avoid the Land Rover Defender. The latest one also uses the same damned engine. Which Ford can you consider? Ford F150 Ford F250 Always, always, always look for proof of durability. Ford Rangers are made in Thailand. And they are not the same. WHich is not saying Thai engineering is bad. The same factory makes pickup trucks for Toyota, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, etc.
What's your "never again" car brand? Why?
That’s hard for me, since I have only owned a few cars so far. A 1964 El camino, still own, a 95 toyota camry, motor blew up, a 2002 mustang convertible, had its issues from high mileage but loved the convertible, a 2016 diesel colorado, my daily and I love it, and a 91 chevy sport pickup, which is awaiting restoration. The toyota was a great car, but it had a rear main seal leak. It was cheaper to just keep putting cheap oil in it, but it caught up with me. I would likely still have it just because it was a great cheap beater car. My parents experience however has taught me a few things. They had a lincoln navigator, with the drive train of a ford F-150. Pretty car, nice interior. (I am a GM guy til the day I die but ford has had an edge on chevy interior for years). And as much as I hate ford, they make a good motor. Their transmission for this particular vehicle was crap. It blew up three seperate times, within less than a 50 thousand mile interval. It rarely towed anything, and the boat we had at the time was light, so it should not have been an issue. We take care of our vehicles, so realistically there was no rhyme or reason for this to happen. From my understanding(I was a bit young at the time) the transmission overheated and we got towed the first time. The dealer “fixed” the transmission. I am not sure if they rebuilt it, which dealers usually do not do, or put a rebuilt one in it, or if they found the problem and tried to correct it. This happened two more times, all in about a year and a half period. The third time it was being towed away was the last time we saw it. We told them to fix it, and then traded it in for my dad’s 04 duramax gmc sierra. He still has it, and while it has had its issues that gm should have probably recalled, mechanically it has been great. 200 thousand miles, and the only work done to the motor and transmission aside from servicing was an alternator(last year in a tom leonard’s parking lot) and a bad radiator(minivan). Yeah it wasn’t leaking or anything, a minivan pulled off of the shoulder on a highway and he hit her, busted the radiator, the truck was still running. The duramax(Isuzu) engine is pretty damn good, and the cummins(dodge) and international(ford) are all great engines. Again, a chevy guy here. But the allison transmission that is paired with the duramax is way better than anything that ford or ram has to offer for transmissions. Which is why I will never be buying a ford truck unless it is pre 1980s.
HOME