gearbox oil drain
gearbox oil drain Related Articles
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gearbox oil drain Post Review
The definition of patience: waiting for the last of the old oil to drain out of your gearbox before you can refill with new #AlfaRomeo #Sportwagon #Alfisti #Fuchs #SintoFluid https://t.co/NOr7BjxfZa
Is this the best way to drain the gearbox oil out ? http://t.co/b8lf8OsAtU
Say "Hello gearbox!" Drain oil, clean up, new oil, new bushes and back in when car has had a bit of metal work done. It's a bit heavy.. https://t.co/lrBrrkamtL
Changing the gearbox oil on the TR7. OOF! That magnetic drain plug is scary. Thats pretty bad for a car with only 30,000 miles on it but is probably normal by British Layland standards. https://t.co/i1psDr64Xz
That time you couldn't remember whether you'd done the gearbox oil on your rebuild, so had to drain the box and diff to check. You did. https://t.co/a9T71A73Qx
Classic Mini gearbox oil drain plugs Super strong magnets Specially made for @CAM_Autos 🤓 https://t.co/033WXlBFJD
My #Ford type 9 five speed gearbox with no oil drain plug oil change solution by using a Ripmax model aircraft 12v fuel pump. #ClassicCars #MG #MGA https://t.co/0uD52KQNgs
A small oil leak can often turn into a big job. One of the three hydraulic pumps was leaking where it sealed to the gearbox. To fix it correctly, we had to drain all the hydraulic oil and remove all three pumps. #thinkgreencallfairgreen #sodfarming #wintermaintenance #trebro https://t.co/fEhFASDGzQ
(eBay Advertisement) 21pcs Oil Sump Axle Gearbox Drain Plug Key Set Universal Hex Square Drive Tool https://t.co/ZgmBS5T0b8 https://t.co/ZMsrbgdIHV
Never a happy sight to see once you drain the gearbox oil. 😐 #porsche944 #Porsche #944 https://t.co/jdtWRtCmbQ
gearbox oil drain Q&A Review
Why is it important to warm up the automatic gearbox oil before it may be drained?
Heating the fluid reduces its viscosity, allowing more of the fluid to flow out of the system
How much metal filings picked up by a gearbox drain plug magnet are signs you are having problems? My truck drives fine but I just did an oil change and the metal bits were found.
if the metal bits are like fur , change the oil in about 50 k miles and see if the fur has changed from fur to solid silver particles,you have failing bearings Larger metal particles could be from slashing reverse that has chipped a tooth
What is the most messed up thing that has happened to a car you repaired?
These happened DURING a repair, but I think they count. One of my techs was doing an oil change. We check all the tire pressures incl spare, fluid levels, lots of stuff. We can see stuff every few thousand miles, when the car is with us, and simply do our best for the customer, no profit motive... The car was a standard shift, the tech undid what he thought was the transmission fill plug, looking to stick in a finger and check the fluid level, but as he pulled it out, about 2 inches of a machined shaft followed it out, then a "clunk"... The reverse (counter) gear fell off, into the bottom of the gearbox... What disassembly we could do showed the gear underneath the main and countershafts, the xmission needed to be completely taken apart... Having done stick-shift overhauls before, and promised myself never again, we removed it, sent it to a local xmission shop who fixed it, put the car together and ready by closing time. The xmission folks told us they'd done this many times on this model, and to not chastise or dock pay from the tech, "it coulda been you"... When the (regular) customer showed up, I explained what happened; he smiled and understood. I took the tech and his family to dinner. Tightening the oil drain plug on a Saab 900, I head a snap/click. There was a crack in the oil pan around the long plug threads, already seeping oil from beyond where the drain gasket would seal it. It was an aluminum oil pan... It "cracked" before my torque wrench did... The salvage yard who sold me the replacement pan told me this was common on this model, the metal was too thin and got brittle after a decade or so... This one wasn't ready at closing time... I don't consider a failure of a quality part we installed as a "messed up thing" on our part. Trying a cheap repair, a bandaid, on a car whose owner can't afford the proper fix, same thing. We explain, caution, and wait. Sometimes they work, but nobody messed up if they don't...
What is the biggest scam an auto mechanic ever tried on you?
Two things come to mind: As a junior developer I got a small company car (Nissan Micra). These cars were handed over between juniors, I got one which was almost end-of-life. It was a stickshifter and the clutch was slipping so I went to the Nissan workshop to have it fixed. Verdict of the mechanic: I needed new clutchplates, a very expensive repair because the complete engine needs to be taken apart. I said I was OK with that and that he should contact the leasing company to get an approval. The mechanic hesitated for a moment and asked if it really was a company car. When I acknowledged this he took a spanner and tightened an adjustment screw which solved the problem, two seconds of work. Needless to say that this was not charged to me… Another car: needed an oil change. My regular mechanic was not available so I went to a tire-and-oil-shop. It took forever. The manager came to me and told me that they also checked the gearbox oil, it was low but they would refill it for free (i.e. included in the engine oil change). Again: took forever. I went to the mechanic for a chat, he confessed to me that they made a mistake and drained the complete gearbox for which they did not have the right oil in stock. They had to send someone to a parts shop to get it… After about six months the car broke down in an impressive way: it was a 6 gear stickshifter and all the gears broke one-by-one (first lost 6th gear, then 5th gear, then 4th gear, then the engine blew up). Can’t say if this was caused by the gearbox draining, it was an old car and the particular model was known for problems like this. The result was quite funny: I had the car towed away to my regular mechanic who told me that the first gear was still working but that it was a surprise if the car would move forward or backward each time the clutch was released…
How, why and what will happen if there is excess gearbox oil in an automatic car (4x 4) and why gearbox oil boils out its hot?
Original Question: How, why and what will happen if there is excess gearbox oil in an automatic car (4x 4) and why gearbox oil boils out its hot? Thanks for the A2A. Your question is a little vague but I'll answer the most obvious (to me anyway) assumption. Overfilling any transmission, 4X4, automatic or otherwise, is a bad idea because the fluid needs space to expand as it heats and because the fluid does tend to foam a bit when "whipped". Transmission fluid, when subjected to whipping action (what happens when filled above the recommended level), will ,cause foaming when ,air which is not readily expelled due to the viscosity and surface elasticity of transmission fluid is trapped in the fluid,. ,In extreme cases the excess fluid can actually immerse the gears in fluid and the rotation of the vanes of the gears can whip the fluid. ,At normal levels gears are "showered" in fluid and the fluid drains rapidly away. Also, the pressure pump that is inside the transmission may have a relief valve at the top and overfilling can cover that valve port and cause the pump to develop too much pressure. Lastly, transmission fluid is normally hot (180 to 300,°, F) ,at operating temperatures due to the very high pressures that it is subjected to in the pump and also because it is cooling the gears that are transferring all the energy of the engine to the drive line and wheels. There is also some heat energy transferred from proximity to the engine but this is very secondary to the heat generated from within the transmission itself. ,I think you may be worried that the fluid is boiling due to the heat but this would be virtually impossible since automatic transmission fluid boils at around 536,°, F. You would most definitely have a mechanical breakdown ,way before, the fluid could reach this temperature.
How do I stop a fast power steering leak comimg from gear box?
Although I have no idea what car you have I would suggest that what is coming from your gearbox is gearbox oil. Power steering fluid shouldn't be anywhere near it, they're different systems. Power steering fluid is a variation of automatic gearbox oil and on some cars they are interchangeable, but I still wouldn't expect the two systems to be connected. Typical areas for leaking round the gearbox are the drain plug (for draining gearbox oil) which is at the lowest part of the gearbox, or the gasket which seals the gearbox housing to the engine. You'll know if you're loosing power steering fluid as there will be a knocking noise from the steering pump on full lock, sometimes a whining noise during operation, and the weight of the steering will become erratic. If you are loosing gearbox oil then you should notice the transmission becoming noisier and less smooth. Forget trying to seal a leak in the steering system as you would a radiator - the pressure of the fluid would break through any repair. If its anything other than the drain plug leaking on the gearbox then it'll be a garage job I'm afraid.
As a mechanic, what was the biggest mistake you made when fixing a car?
As a young, 19-year-old backyard mechanic, I thought it would be a good idea to change the manual gearbox oil on my ’76 Audi Fox before embarking on a multi-leg road trip with a buddy to Florida, and later on to Arizona. The oil filler hole was on the top of the 90-degree/inline transmission, and fairly difficult to see and harder still to get a filler tube into. Nevertheless, I drained the old oil, and snaked a fluid filler tube down around the back of engine into what I assumed was the filler hole, and I slowly squeezed a quart+ (whatever the specification was) through the tube. After adding the required amount, I noticed a small puddle of fresh oil under the car. Since there was no simple way to actually check the gear oil level, I just assumed I overfilled it a bit, and that some excess had spilled out. I then re-plugged the filler hole and went on my merry way. I’m sure where you can see where this is going… Shortly after, my friend and I drove south from New Hampshire, through southern New England, through NY and the mid-Atlantic states and all the way to northern Florida, when I started to hear an odd whining sound that ceased only when I pushed in the clutch. ,I realized almost immediately that there was something wrong with the gearbox. While staying in Florida, I took the car to a transmission shop, where they had quite a chuckle at my expense. The technician called me back to the lift, and showed me how fresh, but tragically-misguided gear oil had puddled in a matrix of pockets and recesses on the top of the gearbox and subframe. He then shined a light into the drain hole and showed me how the bone-dry gears had turned blue from excessive heat and wear over the 1000 or so miles I drove it ,with no oil in the gearbox, whatsoever! By an extreme stroke of luck, the shop was able to source another Audi Fox or VW Dasher gearbox and install it within a few days. Price at the time? About $450! Certainly that price would be tenfold on a modern Audi today.
Do you need to change the oil cooler in an automatic transmission more often?
Let’s just get some terminology straight, to make sure we’re talking about the same thing. Many (but not all) cars with automatic transmission have a second, smaller radiator, usually below the main coolant radiator at the front of the car (mine are below the front bumper on both my cars). Automatic gearboxes (transmissions) contain a special type of oil (more viscous than regular motor oil, if I remember rightly), which can heat up significantly when the vehicle is working under heavy load with a great deal of switching gear, such as when towing a heavy load. The purpose of the oil cooler (as the name implies) is to cool this oil. Now most modern cars don’t actually require the changing of the auto gearbox oil at all. Having said that, I’ve done it with all of my cars except that darned Renault Espace I had once, which has a sealed gearbox. Of course that was the only vehicle where the automatic gearbox failed on me. I’ve had the gearbox oil drained, the gearbox flushed and new gearbox oil filled up. I may be imagining things, but I could swear the shifting was smoother afterwards. And looking at your question: More often that what? Engine oil? No. Question as originally answered: ,Do you need to change oil cooler in automatic transmission more often?
How often should manual gearbox oil be changed?
At first guess I would say never …unless the gearbox was submerged in water at some point. But, I would definitely check the owners manual and find out. And if there’s no guidance, and you want to change the gearbox oil, then I would take the opportunity to swap the fluid using a modern synthetic of the proper GL rating, viscosity and additive makeup. The GL rating and additive makeup is especially important if this is a classic vehicle. I have a ’73 Beetle and the best gearbox fluid is *not* the latest GL rating and formulation. The syncros in the Bug tranny are brass (or some other softer metal) and need to have a certain additive that GL-5 gearbox oil has (and which more modern GL ratings do not). So before you just drain and fill the crashbox in your ride …especially if your vehicle is an older or classic vehicle …do some sleuthing and find out what the *proper* rating and additives are for the gearbox in your car.
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