snapped subframe bolt
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snapped subframe bolt Post Review
That feeling when you shear the head off an almost entirely inaccessible bolt. https://t.co/xpzcYHFTky
Snapped the upper subframe bolts clean off http://t.co/Y0Rgjinu
But both aint safe to drive as I have to rethread the subframe bolt and fix a snapped nut in the frame rail on the grey one. https://t.co/vqEHXLWozc
Sawing through an inaccessible, snapped subframe bolt with about 10mm of hacksaw blade taped to a screwdriver. Veeeeeery slowly. Fun!
Can you guess the snapped subframe bolt didn't come out without a fight #minicooper https://t.co/gDBaFmGG9D
Fit a new coil spring + brake discs and pads to my car and find an exploded drop link and my wishbone bolt has snapped inside my subframe?? I hate cars
IM STRESSED THE FUCK OUT THESES IDIIOTS BROKE MY STEERING RACK HOSE AND SNAPPED MY LOCK BOLTS TO MY SUBFRAME IM FUCKING FURIOUS LIKE HOW BRO?! All I asked for you guys to swap my pan ???!?!
Suzuki SX4 swaybar bushing bracket bolt. Snapped off clean, since it's right under the AC drain tube. Gonna have to drop the subframe to get to it. Waiting for a full suspension replacement job to even bother.
Well dang, the Taxi is sick. It’s snapped a rear subframe bolt. This is not good. This will be expensive.
@richardbrunning Snapped a bolt in my front subframe. It's going to be a fucking nightmare getting it out 😟😟😟
snapped subframe bolt Q&A Review
I'm working on a 2003 Ford Taurus with front end problems. I need to replace the front struts. Is there any way to replace a front strut without having to drop the front subframe?
I owned this vehicle for 5 years. In those years I've replaced all 4 Struts at least twice. The other answers are correct. You do not need to drop the subframe in order to replace the front struts. There are the three strut tower bolts (the three under the hood) and the one strut to steering knuckle bolt (on the lower end of the strut). You will need to disconnect the sway bar link. Once the knuckle is free from the strut, is should just drop freely.
Mechanics, what cars should we not buy?
Anything by the VAG group.. they have been trading on the back of the much fabled ‘German engineering’ myth for quite some time now. They are often difficult to fix due to the near sacrificial quality of fasteners they use also… A hint at how poor they are is how new bolts are supplied with suspension components. Peugot/Renault/Citroen… These cars do not age well... I’m sure there will be the odd random owner on Quora who can tell me of their grandfather’s Citroen 2cv that has 3/4 million miles on it… But I assure you this is not indicative of the whole brand. Generally speaking these cars are maintenance-hungry, poorly designed ergonomically - rendering labour times to repair them ~ higher! And French electronics are never the greatest either (I’m talking to you sagem & valeo!) Volvo - more European mumbo-jumbo pretending to be Mercedes Benzes of old. Expensive to repair, poor quality to work on, needlessly complicated software as diagnostic interface. Now, again I’m sure some Volvo fan-boy will tell me - just like Citroen, that some relative has a Volvo 240 with intergalactic mileage on it (so everything they make must be this good right!?) Wrong! - news flash, those cars are a thing of the past. No European manufacturers want to build things that last forever. This sells fewer cars and doesn’t facilitate the demonising of older cars environmentally. BMW - rubbish four-cylinder diesels, however they are a bit more straightforward to repair for a human being and their diagnostic interface is well thought out. They do tend to make a good six cylinder & the BMW of the 90s (non nikasil affected) were very good and capable of high mileage cars. Today’s BMW isn’t that good, however at least they are maintenance-friendly. Mercedes Benz … Where do I begin? Fantastic in the 80s, still popular all over Europe and Middle East. Sullied in the 90s by their connection to Chrysler… but trying to progress away from that today. To work with, not quite as good as BMW, but the xentry diagnostic interface is as good as BMW System and is very no nonsense to pick up and use. Corrosion of the underbody is not so much of an issue, corrosion of suspension components are! This is due to using steel and alloy together which often facilitates galvanic reaction (try removing anti-roll bar brackets on a c-class and watch the bolts snap flush into the subframe) this is very frustrating and also pushes labour times up somewhat. Personally… I’d avoid the lot and go Japanese or Korean. Lexus, Toyota, Honda, Hyundai make an absolute fool of the brands above. No doubt this answer will earn me the ire of fanboys… get a grip! I’m not saying this to hurt feelings, I’m talking from experience of having worked with these vehicles of nearly 20years now. S.
What was the most difficult car or engine repair or maintenance you have ever done? Were you successful or did you give up in despair?
Generally working on Mercedes. the hardest most physically demanding job i have ever done is the clutch master cylinder on an old 123 series 2 litre mercedes. its located in the drivers footwell, and fed from a remote reservoir. its connected by hard lines to the gearbox, and fitted to a specially engineered bracket….. the problems are as follows. because of the location, i was in the position of having my left side dug into by the sill of the car, with my ribs resting on the top of the sill, while i worked at it from a distance, when i had to get in close i had to lie on the sill in order to get closer to the job….. OUCH. because of its position near the transmission tunnel i was unable to get a spanner on the nuts to remove them from the unit, and because of the construction of the bracket, i was unable to remove the bracket because i could not physically slide it off from the pipe without removing the nuts. after a long time fiddling i had to make a special spanner in order to undo the nuts, so that i could remove the unit…. Then the fun really began…. the unit had to be fitted in the same position, obviously, but i had several problems…. i could not get the pipe for the reservoir onto the cylinder because i could not get my hand down there to do it so i had to remove the pipe and fit it, thread it through the hole and then fish it up…. then i had to locate the cylinder on the end of the pipe at the same time as getting the bolts through it… then getting the nuts on…. luckily i could just barely get my fingertips to touch the nuts, and with the patience and skill of a safecracker was able to thread the nuts on enough to get on my special tool in order to tighten them up enough…. i am a large man, 6 feet 2 tall with a 54 inch chest, believe me this was the hardest and most painful job i have ever done on a car…..ever However….i can add another job….. VW/Skoda……. The front subframe on mk4 golf is in 3 pieces….. the end pieces are aluminium….. set in a pressed steel crossmember…. i think you know where i am going with this……. 5 bolts……. 4 are easy…. no 5 is the bitch it’s an 18mm head high tensile bolt torqued up to 120 foot pounds…… not really a problem…. only its torqued into ALUMINIUM. miracle of miracles… it starts to move… then it binds up….. i snap the head off the bolt. i then commence to try to remove it in the workshop…. its 5 inches long…. threaded all the way with 4 inches inside the aluminium….. so i try all the tricks i can think of…. penetrating oil….. nothing. weld a nut on the end …. nothing. i even get my welder, set it on high and create a short through the bolt….. nothing. i drill it out and helicoil the hole. i get it back in and bolt it up with a new bolt…….. now for the other side…… same shit different day literally….. only this time i just cut the fucking around and chop the head off and go straight to the workshop grind it flat and drill it out. One helicoil later…. its back on with new bushes just like the other side…. coated with a shit ton of ally never seize. and i’m still not happy…. going to source another couple of ends, drill them out and improve them using longer bolts, nuts and washers and make it easier to fix in the future.
I'm buying a 2003 BMW 323i, what are the common issues I can expect? Only 83k miles and well cared for with receipts.
They are solid if taken care with attention. Keep in mind we are talking about a 2003 model, 16 years old so everything has to be put in perspective during usage for all that time. Regardless of mileage, at that age, the car normally needs a new radiator, overflow tank, thermostat and housing, water pump and hoses. BMWs generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 81.41 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- ,www.reliabilityindex.co.uk, Build date now shown on engine compartment label on top of front nearside wheelarch. The E46 doesn't have many significant problem areas; however these cars are VERY sensitive to maintenance. If you are going to buy a used E46, avoid cars without a good maintenance and repair history. Luckily, the E46 had free maintenance until 36,000 or 50,000 miles (depending on year), so most early maintenance was performed by BMW dealers. Any dealer should be able to provide the service history with just the last seven digits of the VIN. Below are some frequently occuring and well known issues: Window regulators fail., The windows will then either make clicking noises as they go up/down (sign of a failing regulator) or not operate at all possibly leaving your window partially or fully open. This is an extremely common failure and aclear weakspot of the E46. Out of warranty, expect the parts to cost $150 per door for the front and $100 per door for the rear PLUS $500 - $750 per door for labor. Some owners had success asking BMW NA to cover all or a portion of the cost for this design defect even when the vehicle was out of warranty. Tail lamp wiring faults., The updated E46 sedan (from 9/01 to 3/05 production) wiring harness has a design defect with grounding wires for the rear lighting that are too small and are made of poor quality materials, thus leading to wiring harness failure due to overheating. As stated in BMW's TSB, "Customers may complain that one of the rear lights is inoperative. CAUSE: Minor corrosion at the 8-pin rear lamp connector creates high resistance causing damage to the connector housing. CORRECTION: Repair the damaged wire(s) and replace damaged connector housing. Install additional ground wires to both left and right rear lamps." This can be easily confirmed by careful examination of the rear lamp wiring connectors which are usually melted. Symptoms include a "burned out bulb" warning in the instrument panel and (intermittently) completely inoperative rear lamp cluster(s). While BMW has a TSB for this problem, many have occurred out of warranty leading to arguments with the dealer (automotive lighting standards are Federally legislated, yet BMW refuses to repair this design defect once the cars are out of warranty). BMW dealers expect $350-$400, or more, PER SIDE to make the tail lamps work. As a result, check for a NHTSA recall (or a class-action lawsuit against BMW) before you pay for repairs. There are many threads on this problem; see the BMW TIS (search for SIB 63 03 06 if the attached link is inop),here,. This problem was not limited to US market as you can read ,here,. Cheaper DIY repairs can also be found on a variety of web forums, although your results may vary; here is one: ,here, . The cooling system, will eventually fail catastrophically due to a disintegrating water pump bearing. When this occurs all coolant is lost within seconds and the engine will overheat instantly (remember, these cars have only a total of ~2 gallons of coolant). A much better water pump than the stock/OEM unit is available from EMP Steward, but it's pricey ($200) compared to stock ($70). Other items on the cooling system that should be considered maintenance items since they will likely/eventually fail are the plastic/electric thermostat and the coolant reservoir. Therefore, preventative cooling system maintenance replacing these items every 60k to 80k miles is strongly advised. If an engine is allowed to seriously overheat the repair costs can reach several thousand dollars because of warped cylinder heads. VANOS unit wear and failure., This was already the case with the B52 engines in the E36, but it's much easier to repair on the E46's B54 engines since the timing chains do not have to be removed. This defect is mostly related to the Buna o-rings in the unit's control pistons which due to heat induced hardening allow excessive oil bypass, thus leading to less accurate control of camshaft timing. Fluctuating idle or stalling can also be signs of this problem. Depending on maintenance this can already occur at 50K miles. If this defect occurs, there is a noticeable rattle in the engine from the VANOS unit, often around 2,000 rpm and low rpm performance will be affected. Repair is actually relatively easy and a true DIY for someone who has basic skills. Replacing the Buna o-rings with higher quality Viton rings in the VANOS unit will fix the issue. Better yet ,Dr. Vanos, sells complete rebuild and blue printed VANOS units that are even better than new OEM BMW units and ,Beisan Systems, sells the above mentioned Viton seal/o-ring DIY kits. Cam sensors (intake and exhaust) on the VANOS unit are also prone to fail and as small as they are, they are expensive ($100+). The exhaust sensor is usually the first to fail and that occurs often right around 100K miles. It has been proven that ONLY OEM BMW sensors should be installed during repair since all aftermarket units are not that compatible and of lower quality. VANOS units on ZHP cars are especially failure prone for undetermined reasons. Common opinion is that this is related to the more aggressive camshaft profiles. <LI itxtvisited="1">There are many reports of cracked or torn subframe mounting points. Most often the two rear mounting points below the trunk floor are affected. This occurs almost exclusively on the early E46 323i/328i models. BMW later improved the subframe mounting points in the trunk floor of the car and in later E46 325i/330i this problem seems to be absent. This problem seems to be so frequent in early E46 cars that a check before buying a 323i/328i IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST! Repairs are very expensive and difficult since the rear axle and subfram have to be removed and the unibody frame and mounting points have to be welded. Recurring stress cracking often occurs even after a repair has been made. You can find more information as well as what it looks like in these threads: ,Thread 1, ,Thread 2, ,Thread 3 Many E46 models have erratic HVAC fan speed condition, wherein the instrument panel display indicates a set constant fan speed, yet the fan changes speed on a 1hz rate (constantly up and down), or fails to come on at all. This is almost always results from failure of defective original Final Stage Resistors (FSR) whose design provided insufficient heat sink surface area. The improved design FSR's can be purchased for ~$60 to $80 from a wide variety of vendors; installation threads abound. Front control arm bushings, tend to fail after 40-60k miles. You can replace them with Powerflex bushings from Bimmerworld for $149 (pre-pressed into new carriers). <LI itxtvisited="1">There was a recall for failure-prone Bremi ignition coils. Symptoms include multiple yet intermittent "cylinder misfire" OBD-II codes, among with other difficult to diagnose problems. A dealer can tell you if this TSB/recall has been performed in which all six Bremi coils were replaced. There was a technical service bulletin for fading FM stereo reception on cars with navigation with the BM53 tuner. The fix is to replace the BM53 tuner in the trunk. Reference service measure #B65-209-04 with your dealer. There was a technical service bulletin for a 4000RPM power dip on cars equipped with the ZHP Performance Package. The fix is to send the car's DME to New Jersey for reprogramming. Reference service bulletin # SIB 12 17 05 with your dealer - More info here: http://www.linquist.net/motorsports/bmw/sib121705.txt There was a recall of the electric radiator cooling fan on a wide variety of BMW models, to include many early E46's. The problem could result in an engine compartment electrical fire several minutes after the engine was shut off. Several cars (and homes) were destroyed by the resulting fires. The sunroof shade track/rails are prone to failure. The sunroof will sometimes fail to operate in the heat on older models. The interior weather stripping above the coupe doors often falls down after a few years. Easily glued into place. (Some even fell down before the cars were sold new.) For servicing and repairs: ,Independent BMW Specialists Register The BMW E46 is a high-performance German sedan/coupe that is now coming down with the parts frequent list. Here’s a list of the BMW E46 parts and Common Problems, so you can keep in mind probable repairs you may have to accomplish during ownership of an BMW E46 3-series. 1. Cooling System Failure/Leaks from Plastic Components: The E46 cooling system is full of plastic fittings, clips, and reservoirs that all have a habit of cracking, causing major problems with coolant leaks and De-pressurization. eEuroparts sells a kit to replace all the key failure points at once, and includes genuine Made in Germany ROWE coolant to flush the system when done. BMW E46 3-series cooling system refresh kit is ,100k10097,. Also offered is a performance kit that is very similar, but has choice upgrades available. Check that out here as part number ,100K10369,. 2. Weak Rear Shock Mount In addition to reinforcing the rear sub-frame, the shock mount is another area that can use a little love. eEuroparts sells a part that reinforces the rear shock mounts, and it is straight from BMW. The rear shock mount reinforcement also fits E30’s, E36’s and Z3’s as well, and fits on TOP of the mount on the interior of the car. The original design focuses on the bottom of the mount, where the weight of the car sits, but has no emphasis on the top. This makes unloading the suspension potentially hazardous to the other side of the shock tower. If you are doing a rear shock mount, there’s no reason NOT to bolt on this reinforcement. Because of this, we sell the shock mounts, gaskets, nuts, and reinforcements together as a kit- ,100K10157,. This will beef up your suspension mountings and let you focus on other areas of the car. For a little more money, we offer fully reinforced ,Powerflex, versions for ,10mm, and ,12mm, shock shafts. The 10mm shaft versions would be for OE style shocks, where the 12mm versions would be for cars that have externally adjustable mechanisms such as Bilstein B8’s. The extra width would be to accommodate that linkage, you should know if you have installed a larger shaft shock absorber. 3. Tail Light Failure An intermittent ‘tail lamp out’ indicator on your dash could mean a few things, but hands down the most common failure involves the circuit boards inside the tail lights. This is so common that we made a complete kit to replace your components with uprated parts, including a wiring harness that is more capable of handling the heat and current of normal usage. I wrote a DIY blog on the subject, which you can read here ,[click here],. The surprisingly cost effective kit (,100k10107, BMW Tail Light Repair Kit (E46)) includes new Genuine BMW taillight circuit boards for both sides of the car (,63217165865 ,and ,63217165866,), as well as a Genuine BMW wiring repair kit (,61129281435,). You may require the connectors (,12527519956,) and the corresponding terminal pins (,12521433217,) in case yours is melted, which is common. 4. Crankcase Vent Valve Failure/Maintenance: The PCV (,Positive Crankcase Ventilation,) system is meant to separate the oil out of the oily stirred up air that pressurizes the crankcase of the engine due to piston blowby. The hoses and separator therefore see a lot of action when it comes to hot oil, which can build up inside and cause problems. Due to this, the PCV system should be considered a maintenance item, and replaced regularly in order to prevent sludgy buildup from clogging oil vent passageways. A sure clue of clogged or constricted PCV components is that the seals around the crankcase will all start weeping oil due to the pressure that is not allowed to be vented. This includes the timing cover, oil pan, and especially the valve cover. We have two kits for the M54 and M52 6 cylinder engines found in the BMW E46 3-series. They are ,100K10104,, and ,100k10237, for cold climates. The second kit features insulated hoses to prevent water condensation from contributing to sludge buildup. 5. Torn Front Axle Boots / Front Axle Failure (Xi AWD models only): Many E46s suffer premature front suspension balljoint failure. Bushes in front suspension wishbones often need replacing after 3 - 4 years. Means new wishbones. Spate of snapping rear coil springs on 4 - 5 year olds increasingly common. 17" wheels easily damaged on inner rim. Clonks from the rear either mean a coil has snapped or the diff has torn away from its mounting. Can also mean that the rear suspension subframe has torn loose from the floorpan at its mounting points. The front axles on these cars are notorious for having problems, specifically with the CV joints and related boots. These problems are accelerated with lowered cars, so it’s important to pay attention to the CV axles on your all-wheel drive model. If you catch it early, you can get away with just replacing the boots. The boot isn’t super easy to replace, because in order to do so you must remove the axle. However, replacing both axles at a dealer will run you more than $1700. Replacing four CV boots (each axle has an inner and an outer CV joint) will cost under $100 and a few hours of time. The CV Boot numbers are ,31607507402 ,for the outer (the more common to fail) and the inner is ,31607507403,. If the boot has been torn for a while, there is a high probability that the joint has run dry and been contaminated with dirt, grit, and road grime. In this case, the tight tolerance joint wears out quickly and the entire axle will need to be replaced. We have two front axles available for the E46 AWD, a cost effective Empi as well as a higher end GKN axle. The Empi numbers are ,A807916 ,for the front driver side, and ,A807917, for the front passenger side. The high qualty GKN front axles for the BMW 325xi and 330xi are ,31607505199A ,for the front driver side, and ,31607505200A ,for the front passenger side. 6. M3 Camshaft Gear Bolt Failure (S54 only) The S54 engine has been known to have the cam gear bolts break. It is recommended to have these replaced every 30,000 miles at the same time as the valve adjustment. If one or more do break there would be catastrophic engine damage. We sell a kit with all of the necessary hardware, ,100K10240,, that comes with the necessary ,Loctite® thread locker,. 7. Engine Oil Filter Housing Gasket As with many soft engine gaskets, the oil filter housing gasket, part# ,0816965,, is a common failure point. This gasket will harden over time from the heat cycles produced by the engine and oil contaminants causing it to leak. If you see oil on the driver side portion of the engine block near the oil filter you know this gasket is leaking. Depending on the size of the leak, this may also cause the low oil light on the dash to illuminate. We have seen instances where this leak will cause the belt to slip off and jam into the main seal behind the crank pulley. 8. Rear Sub-frame Bushing Failure Like mentioned above, the rear subframe takes a lot of abuse in these cars from lateral movement. Besides the subframe itself, the bushings take a ton of abuse and subsequently wear out. When the bushings wear out, it will cause clunking and banging, and accelerate wear on the subframe itself. Aside from the sub frame reinforcing, it’s a good idea to make sure your bushings are all fresh to keep the car from hammering and banging itself apart. The key bushings to look at here are in this kit we put together, ,100K10187,. 9. Rear Spring Failure / Rear coil spring failures increasingly common. The rear springs are notorious for breaking on the bottom coil where it sits on the control arm. This is due to the fact that water and road salt will collect in this area and corrode and weaken the steel spring causing it to eventually break as it compresses. The rear springs for rear wheel drive models are ,06165,. The rear springs for the all-wheel drive models are ,06254,. Springs can be tricky sometimes so check correctly 10. Driveshaft Flex Disc / Center Support Bearing Failure Driveline vibration which can be felt through the body of the vehicle may hint at a worn flex disc and support bearing on the drive shaft. The main function of the flex disc is to absorb vibration and as this item wears it transmits those vibrations throughout the chassis of the vehicle. If left un-repaired, the disc will actually start to tear and can damage the pinion flange on the differential. Worn center bearings will heat up and bind which will prevent the drive shaft from rotating freely, and can cause catastrophic failure. Rear wheel drive vehicles will use Center Bearing ,26127501257, and Auto Trans Flex Disc ,26117511454,, and the kit is ,100K10241,. Manual Transmission cars use Flex Disc ,26111227410, and that kit is ,100k10242,. All-wheel-drive vehicles will use Center Bearing ,26121229317, and Flex Disc ,26111229360,, and the kit for these cars is ,100k10243,. 10- Window regulator / Report of windows dropping and roof opening overnight on 65k 2004 BMW 330i convertible, probably due to moisture ingress to the locks, windows and roof ECU inside the driver's door. 11-Heater fan resistors can fail leaving fan only running at full speed but BMW aware of this and will meet cost even though not covered by 2nd and 3rd year standard dealer warranty. 12-A/c computer fault can flatten battery if car left parked for 2 weeks after a/c settings have been changed several times on the preceding journey. BMW dealers have a cure. 13-Make sure the electric engine radiator fan works. Even it it does, a previous failure could have resulted in head gasket failure so check for the usual signs of this such as emulsified oil under the oil filler cap. 14-General Warning about Automatic Transmissions: Many BMWs have "sealed for life" automatic transmissions. Regardless of whether you have a full BMW service history, the dealer will never change the auto fluid. Many of these boxes are failing around the 120-150k mark -This is commonplace in the US and means the 'box should last the life of the car rather than being the cause of it being written off. General advice is ensure the fluid is flushed out every 60k or more preferably at each Inspection II. 15-Fuel tank sender pumps can fail. 16-2 litre 143PS four cylinder engine can be trouble from around 100k miles. Cam sensors fail. Crankshaft sensors can fail suddenly, out on the road with no prior warning. 17-, ,Report of two timing chain failures in E46 320d, despite regular oil and filter changes at 6,000 miles. First failure occurred at 124k miles; 2nd failure at 194k miles, which wrote off the engine. But car was purchased at 63k miles, so its previous history may have had something to do with the premature timing chain failures. 1-,BMW 3-Series E46 Common Problems And Solutions 2-,BMW 3-series E46 (1998 - 2005) 3-,2003 BMW 330i: Review 4-,Pros and Cons of 2000 BMW 323i 5-,BMW 3-series E46 (1998 - 2005)
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