subframe wiring harness
subframe wiring harness Related Articles
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subframe wiring harness Post Review
5) Once built, engine run up on test bed & then fitted to front subframe before being lifted into the engine bay which has received the new engine wiring harness. #LotusBuild https://t.co/8NVzbRIG0U
@gammichan @ceterispar1bus Im building a touring 69 Mach1 with 421 Keith Craft Stroker , proflow 4 efi with a 4R70W. Chris Alston TCP coil overs, subframe connectors and X brace, GLink rear Coilover. Got the engine tuned now I’m wiring a AAW harness and skinning carbon fiber. My spaghetti mess. https://t.co/C6cebOF2Kv
Project update... Complete: Engine & trans Wiring harness Short throw shifter Clutch master cyl. Diff subframe Next: Exhaust fab. Carbon 1 piece drive shaft Axles Suspension, brakes Intake Cooling Fuel tank I reckon I'm about 70% done. A few more months I guess. https://t.co/GAN1G9VDeK
2012-2016 TESLA MODEL S REAR SUBFRAME MOTOR DRIVE UNIT HARNESS WIRING CABLE PLUG https://t.co/TduddtWWzR eBay https://t.co/irSft8MzZy
Large £10k repair completed on this lovely Bmw after major damage to the undercarriage. Engine subframe was replaced along with the electronic steering rack, main wiring harness, suspension, complete cooling system and the majority of the front end. #Rightfirsttime https://t.co/nIrWx48W0V
@CodyHighRoller1 as in my main wiring harness the one I relocated above my subframe
Accident risk – Bentley Motors #recalls Bentley Continental GT MY2018-2019. Electrical power steering wiring harness may get trapped between the subframe and the subframe closing plate on right hand drive vehicles and may short circuit. For full details: https://t.co/lkFZoOaxzZ
04-05 gsxr parts: lookin for 04-05 gsxr 600 parts subframe,undertail,plastics,tank,wiring harness,gear lever, tu... http://bit.ly/qbxvTF
Head Studs Wiring harness Clutch Rear lca's Subframe raisers Front 5 lug stuff Angle Cage Gauges Body kit Wing Paint 🙂
cbr600f4i: i am selling a cbr600f4i main wiring harnes.....does not have rear subframe or headlight harness....a... http://t.co/PWT3QauQ
subframe wiring harness Q&A Review
I’m looking to purchase a car for 21k or less. I see a listing for a 2019 Toyota 86 but it’s a salvage title. Are salvage titles bad?
You need before and after pics on a 2019. I won’t buy it if both air bags and seat belts went off-they become useless. If it has bumper a headlight etc. replaced a good body shop can tell. The biggest problems I have had is water leaks. If they are hiding anything at all walk away. Keep looking, been buying salvages for 30 years. 50% is about value and even with subframes replacement check all electronic for wiring harness issues. Have it double checked. Check insurance, in Oregon repaired cars go from salvage to rebuilt and are coverable. Not so in CA so check with insurance co. first. More beware buyer is needed but there are good cars out there.
If I am trying to do an engine swap of a v8 into an obscure car, what should I watch out for?
You will have to swap EVERYTHING. You will need to know how to weld. You will have to fabricate engine and transmission mounts. You will have to have a driveshaft built, maybe axles too if you don't use the stock rear end (the stock rear end probably can't handle the power of a V8). You will need to make sure that the hood clears the top of the engine and that the engine sits in the engine bay without the oil pan scraping. You may have to build a custom subframe or K-member. You will have to do something for a shift linkage. If you're planning on using fuel injection you will need a standalone engine management system with a whole new wiring harness and then probably have to use aftermarket gauges or use gauges from the car the V8 is from. Honestly, if you have to ask a question like this, you're probably already in over your head.
Is it worth it to buy a 2006 BMW 330i with 212,000 miles on it? And what should I be aware of with this mileage?
I’d probably be wary of this. I’m assuming you’re rederjng to a e46 330i. There are probably many things to list as a car that’s over 10 years old will have a fair share of electrical or deterioration problems of some sort but I’m going to list just a few major ones. Rear sub-frame ,- the rear subframe of e46 were always an issue, the sub-frame would slowly detach itself from the rest of the chassis. Essentially, it will one day not be able to drive because the differential, gas tank, axles etc, which are all connected to this sub-frame will slowly shove itself forward/backward and make itself loose. It will make the car undrivable. Cylinder 5 compression, - many will not mention this one and BMW will not admit this either. There are many BMWs with compression failures specifically on cylinder #5. This will cause engine oil to burn quickly. While this isn’t an issue as long as you keep the oil topped up, if you’re ever stranded and you don’t have engine oil, it will overhear, which can cause gasket issues. Coolant tank crack ,- the coolant tank will crack, regardless whether you flush your coolant regularly or not. The issue is due to the composite material used for the coolant tank isn’t all that durable and doesn’t stand extreme weather as long as most of us would like. This coolant will leak causing engine to overheat. Broken locks ,- this one got me more than once. It was a frigid day and I was going to work. I worked in a facility with high security which means I would have to scan my card as I drive into the facility. When I arrived I attempted to roll down my window but due to the cold the seals were holding the window tight. When I attempted to open the door, the lock will not unlock. Fortunately a guard saw me and let me in and I waited 20 more minutes inside the car until the car was warmer and the door unlocked. The next time this happened I was in frigid cold once again except I was outside the car, I could not get in and two locksmiths couldn’t get the door to open. The cause of the issues are the BMW door lock actuator and the BMW gm5 module. Both of them failed Trunk wiring harness ,- so the wiring harness for almost all electrical equipment in the car will go towards the rear because that’s where the battery is. Normally this isn’t an issue. However, the wiring loom goes through the trunk lid, which is opened a million times causing the cables to stretched, be exposed to weather, and deteriorate. While this is a minor issue, it controls all lights and can cause safety tests to fail. You would need to get some more wire, individually splice them to extend them, then reseal them so they’re not exposed to weather. Kind of annoying. Hope this helps.
Why do Japanese cars last longer than German cars?
Most Japanese cars typically don't have a fatal flaw…that is, some poorly engineered or executed part or system that is so casptastrophically bad, it doesn't matter how good or bad the rest of the car is. Many German cars have these. Some more than one. Many German makes/models - air supensions: leaky air bags, sensor problems, difficult diagnosis Porsche - IMS bearing issues in flat 6 water cooled models (911/Bosxter). Google this one. It's HORRIBLE….and so is the “go F yourself” that many owners got from Porsche Audi - 4.2L v8 timing chain guides wearing out. Prohibitively expensive to fix outside of warranty once it's failed….oh yeah…and they will ALL do it. It's just a matter of “when” Mini Cooper - So technically this is British, but it was resurrected and run by BMW. The first generation car had an available CVT transmission…basically it was the only choice for someone who wanted an automatically shifted transmission. Some of them had problems. Some of them will. There is no other option. Class action law suit-worthy…like there is an actual class action law suit. 2000-up Mercedes S class & 2002-up BMW 7 series - In the previous generation, these were the best of the best; values went down over time as the new models came out but never were the vehicles considered unreliable in a scary way. When these hit the scene, it all changed. In the warranty period, they had problems all the time in many different systems, some consistent (design flaw), some inconsistent (execution flaw). Shortly after the warranty ran out, the cars were basically worthless because they were such a big risk. Mercedes various models - Leaking cam sensor allows oil to enter the wiring harness…no big deal right? Except the sheathing wicks up the oil, causing it to travel throughout the whole car’s wiring harness and causes random weirdness….possibly catastrophic…or possibly nothing at all. I admit, I haven't worked on every model of car out there…probably not even a large proportion of models by any means. But I have NEVER heard of this as a “normal” car thing and as a consumer I would never buy a car where this might happen. I would be pissed to learn my car that I already owned may have this issue. Enter the SUVs…first generation Mercedes ML, VW Touareg, Audi allroad, and Porsche Cayenne. This video is about the allroad, but with just a few details changed it could be any of them: ,2004 Audi Allroad 2.7T Quattro - 60 Second Review,. At least BMW got it mostly right with the X5….but that was just a taller previous generation e39 5-series with fancy transmission programming and a creative oil pan. VW/Audi’s recent diesel emissions cheating debacle. Some might argue this is engineering genius and in a way, it actually is. That being said, in the spirit of accomplishing what they said they accomplished, it's a total fail. For many, this will be a reason to never buy a VW/Audi ever again and may have doomed passenger car diesel in any real volume for another couple of decades (US) [sorry, editing post to add this one…I didn't remember it when I originally submitted, it too good to leave out] BMW Z8 - Great looking car with a proven v8 out of the M5 and features in a James Bond movie. It was BMW’s halo car and had timeless styling that would endure. What didn't endure? The frame. Yes, owners reported frame damage occurring by…hitting potholes or driving their cars enthusiastically. [Good thing I added that one because it reminded me of another] BMW Z3/M Roadster (6cyl models) - Rather than explain myself, I will quote this one from ,Subframe / trunk floor / differential mount failure,: The Z3 chassis was originally designed for the 1.9 M44 four cylinder engine developing 138 horsepower. From 1997 to 2002 BMW introduced progressively larger displacement/horsepower engines, from the 2.5 M52 six developing 170 horsepower through the final 3.2 S54 ///M version in 01' and 02' developing 315 horsepower. However, BMW did not re-engineer the chassis to handle the additional horsepower. There was also a problem of undetermined origin at the Spartanburg plant that effected the spot welding of the trunk floor and frame crossmember. These two issues combined have led to many failed trunk floors, differential mounts, and the frame cross member that joins them to the trunk floor. This issue has led to a catastrophic failure of the system on several Z3's, and can potentially destroy your car, leading to cost prohibitive repairs into the many thousands of dollars. Some specific Japanese models have fatal flaws like these. On the whole, they mostly don't. When Japanese cars have problems, they're minor or repairable. Even “unreliable” Japanese cars like Mitsubishis are annoying to repair at worst, not consistently catastrophic. I used quotes there because it's only relative to the top tier excellent Japanese competition. That is why Japanese cars last longer. They get junked after normal operation because they get old and it's not economical to fix them. Same for the Germans, except it's not normal car things wearing out that every vehicle experiences regardless of manufacturer…it's really horrible catastrophic failure caused by poor engineering decisions, fundamentally flawed parts, and insane prices to correct these mistakes. It DOES NOT MATTER how good the rest of the car is. It DOES NOT MATTER how good the previous generation or 5-generations ago was. That is why an 02 BMW 7 series for $5k is a HORRIBLE deal in every single case but an 02 Toyota Tacoma with 4 doors for $5k is pretty much impossible to find without body damage, scary-high mileage, or known mechanical issues. Actually there is one case where you might want the BMW…if you're a car flipper who can fool some idiot into buying it for $8k. Otherwise, don't do it. Don't be that idiot. NOTE: Everything I've said here applies to the modern German era, approximately mid/late 90s to about 2007-ish. Why? New and new-like cars are pretty much always good. And when they're not, their warranty makes them SEEM good. Maybe the Germans got their act together, but maybe it's just the same crap. Also this list is of really terrible things that I happened to remember, either through previous research or actual hands-on experience. I did not fish on Google looking for items to add to my list. If I did, I'm quite certain the list would grow at least twice as long.
Is it possible to convert an automatic transmission Nissan NV 200 to manual transmission?
I’ll start by saying I’m no Nissan specialist… if you were asking about a Toyota, Jeep, Chrysler, Dodge, or Ram RWD/4x4 vehicle I could probably give exact details. So take this as general advise. Yes, it’s possible. Is it financially a wise choice? Possibly, possibly not. What you will want to do is start with a lot of research - is the vehicle available with a manual transmission from the factory? If so, you generally simply need to buy all the components that are different between the two (make sure you’re using the right year donors with the right engine, if there is a difference) option packages you want, remove all the automatic components and bolt on all the manual components. There is a strong likelihood that you will need to have the ECM or PCM reprogrammed to the manual firmware version to avoid going into limp-home mode, having odd driveability issues, and/or failing emissions due to a large number of P07xx series DTCs being set since the automatic transmission no longer exists. Things you would definitely have to change out, on any vehicle, to accomplish this: transmission flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, brake+clutch pedal box assembly, clutch hydraulics, shifter and linkages/cables Things you may or may not have to change out, depending on the manufacturer’s specific design: crank position sensor starter motor CV shafts various transmission and/or engine mounts, brackets, and crossmembers/subframes wiring harness ECM or PCM (if you can’t get it reprogrammed) exhaust components steering column or ignition switch assembly steering/shifter park interlock cable and solenoid This is all assuming the vehicle was available with a manual transmission in the same year as your vehicle with the same engine. If it was not, it gets even more complicated - you have to find a donor vehicle that WAS available with a manual transmission and the same engine (or at least a similar one with the same bellhousing pattern and other specifics) and then do even more research to find where you’re going to get all the other components from and/or how to make them yourself. You may need to find an ECM/PCM programming specialist who caters to enthusiasts doing stuff like this so they can change your ECM/PCM to manual firmware even though such an option was never available factory, which is generally possible but certainly not straightforward. I’ve done it a few times on other vehicles, and my general advise is either to live with the automatic, or buy a vehicle with a manual from the beginning unless you are willing to really get involved in a lot of drivetrain research and then get your hands dirty doing it yourself. My first swap took me weeks of research (and that was on a vehicle that was available from the factory with a manual transmission…) and after having done it four times, I can now get it done in a day, but it’d take weeks again if I chose a new vehicle platform such as the NV200 that I wasn’t intimately familiar with.
What is the process for scrapping a car?
It depends on the car and what the price of scrap steel is at the time. This is the ideal process that combines efficiency (not spending too much time on one car) with conservation (not throwing perfectly good parts into the crusher to save time). Put the car on the rack, pull the fluids by removing all plugs. If there isn't a plug, puncture the tank. If it's a front wheel drive car that was running when it came in, cut off the exhaust pipe and drop the subframe. Anything that keeps you from dropping the subframe (PS lines, coolant hoses, throttle cable, wiring harness, etc.) just cut. You now have every saleable drivetrain part at your fingertips. remove any underside bolts holding the seats in place. If it's a RWD car, same thing, except you have to remove the driveshaft first. If it's a RWD car with a desirable differential, remove that too. Pull the PCM (it's small, easy to remove, and expensive) take the car off the rack, if it has an interior that isn't trashed, pull the interior, especially if it's leather. If the car has LED or HID headlamps that aren't broken, pull them. Might as well take the taillights too, it takes like 5 seconds and they're worth at least $30 each usually. Every time I see a car go to the crusher with a leather interior still inside and headlamps and taillights still attached I grumble to myself how lazy the place who took the car must have been to not have bothered to remove such easy stuff. With scrap metal prices down in the dumps like they are these days, a whole car may only be worth $75 in scrap. You can easily quadruple or more what the car is worth by spending just a few hours pulling parts off of it before scrapping.
If I’m buying a used Nissan 350z, what should I look out for?
Burning oil Avoid the car at all cost unless you plan to replace the engine. They car already has issue with oil leaks because of gaskets going bad, so burning oil and gasket leaks will eventually lead to engine failure if you forget to check oil one day. Lowered cars Check subframe for damage. Labor cost to replace this is high Rough idle / misfire There’s a chance the ecu or wiring harness is bad. Especially if it’s still happening after someone replaced the spark plugs and coil packs. Aftermarket suspenion and wheels Check to make sure they aren’t ebay parts or rep wheels. Last thing you want to do is die from a major part breaking becuase the previous owner was being cheap. Example would be rep wheels and ebay control arms, cheap coilovers. If any of these fail at 60mph+ you may seriously end up in hospital on top of injuring others. Carfax Don’t buy this car if it has had frame or electrical reports on the cars. Since it’s a smaller car it’s easier to re-wire, but a a pain to rewire entire car, so people half do a job just to keep them running which will be headaches in your future. Frame damage is not worth it, unless you plan to ONLY track the car. Mechanic who knows about 350z I’ve had a mechanics who gave me bad news about stuff that I didn’t ever need to worry about, because they really didn’t understand the car.
How do you run different car make engine in another car make?
It’s actually not very difficult. Time consuming but not difficult. There are many ways to do this. Most people will get the engine wiring harness and ECU from the donor car and swap that into the car along with the new engine. A little splicing here and there and reading of the wiring diagram will make the engine run. For many popular engines like the GM LSX, there are aftermarket wiring harnesses and ECU’s available that are plug and play. Just hook up power and ground and it will run. There is some fabrication work involved also; motor mounts, cross members, subframes, etc. Nothing a little cutting and welding can’t handle. Obviously this isn’t something to be attempted by someone who can’t make good welds but welding, once learned, is fairly easy and a good weld is just as strong or stronger than a factory OE weld. I’ve welded plenty of things together on different vehicles and haven’t had one fail yet. Even off road trucks which are abused in very harsh conditions under stress that a road going car will never see. The legality of such things will vary depending on your location. Most restrictions are due to emissions. Where I live, there are no emissions tests so we can do whatever we want. Some places won’t let you license such a vehicle for public road use which means it has to be a track only vehicle.
How easy is it to swap an engine in a car? The engines are different sizes, but from the same model car.
Often quite difficult, you would need the correct wiring harness, ECU, and correct coding with other modules within vehicle, transmission (generally will be different), maybe even different driveshafts, maybe different subframe, maybe different radiator even. There may be even more things that would need to be replaced also depending on make and model
Can a 2005 Mercedes E500 5.0 V8 engine go into a 2003 Cadillac CTS 3.2 V6? If so, what would need to be changed?
It’s probably too tall to fit between the subframe and hood of the Cadillac. If it did fit you’d need a Mercedes transmission, a custom driveshaft, custom motor mounts, a custom-built wiring harness to get the Mercedes computer to talk to the GM Gauges (or a standalone ECU, which would have to be tuned), or swap the gauges from a Mercedes in. You’d need to change the lock cylinder and Ignition module to one from a Mercedes. You’d probably also need a bigger fan and custom radiator since I’m sure the 5 Liter produces more heat. Maybe the ones from a 1st gen CTS-V would work. You’d also need to fabricate things like an intake/airbox, coolant reservoir, power steering reservoir, since I’m sure some of those things wouldn’t naturally fit where they belong in either car. Oh, also the CTS had throttle by wire. You’d have to see if the Mercedes engine you’re using also does and if the potentiometer on the Cadillac pedal puts on the same voltage as the Mercedes one or if you need to swap in a Mercedes accelerator pedal assembly or wire a cable throttle if the Mercedes uses a throttle cable.
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