xs650 engine
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xs650 engine Post Review
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"@Motorbikebroker: #vintagemotorcycle #biker Wan to build a low rider? A #Yamaha #XS650 engine works well http://t.co/jGUfRVGt4K"
Interesting #3D component: #Yamaha XS650 #Engine #cad https://t.co/8uZY6lCZ3k https://t.co/oqMTqKQ32g
Got the xs650 engine out today! Whew - it's heavy. time for rebuild! http://t.co/2gY83CD2b5
This is the hand built XS650 by Galaxy Custom out of Bulgaria. They made everything in-house except the engine and wheels. #galaxycustom #yamaha #custombike #bulgaria #xs650 #moto #motorcycle #motorbike #bike #machining #craftsmanship #design #metalwork #engineering https://t.co/HCW1OhHFUT
1980 Yamaha XS650 ENGINE MOTOR CRANKSHAFT CRANK SHAFT 447 https://t.co/pNrc7a4TZg https://t.co/mVJ3tXE0Vt
i combined frame from honda cb550 with yamaha xs650 engine in bsa 500 scrambler style . . . https://t.co/7GuSUPePMA
1979 WASP motocross bike, driven by a 860cc Yamaha XS650 engine. https://t.co/R1O8P4SOtJ
xs650 engine Q&A Review
What should I look for when buying a used motorcycle that has been rebuilt? I'm looking at a 1983 Yamaha XS, and the seller says it only has 1000 miles since being rebuilt.
That depends on what was ‘rebuilt. The XS650 engine is extraordinarily over-engineered. pretty much the only way these motors can ‘die’ is from old school cheap oils being changed too infrequently leading to cylinder and bore wear. Basically, the engine should have a quiet top end… A loose rattling sound indicates worn valve stem tops caused by bad oil and the rockers beating into the valve stem until you can’t set the clearances properly. there should be no blue smoke puffing out after a sustained period of idling (and it should idle smoothly and easily) A rebuilt engine will puff a bit of blue oil smoke for a few seconds after first start but as soon as the assembly oil has been burned off, it should have a clean exhaust. Puffs of black smoke when the throttle is snapped open from idle is indicative of poorly adjusted carburettors or over-large pilot jets (a common ‘don’t know what I’m doing’ tweak) and slapping a pair of megaphone exhausts on WILL change the carburettor jetting and even more so if different air filtration is used. Personally, I think that bike is horrible. A Cafe racer should be a stock bike modified to make it a more effective road racer, not modified to make it a more effective tractor… Those tyres are horrible!… But I’m old school… This is a stock XS, and below it is an XS cafe racer
Why do different bikes make different sounds?
The biggest factors in sound variations are caused by the engine configuration (inline, opposed or V), the timing interval (determined by how the crankpins are arranged) and the number of cylinders. For example, an even-fire engine will fire at even intervals. An example of this would be an inline four where a cylinder fires every 180 degrees, producing a smoother audible tone. A vertical twin on the other hand fires every 360 degrees, which while it's even, will sound more coarse. A V-twin doesn't fire evenly, so it has a lope to the sound, kind of like a flam played on a drum. However even the sound of a particular configuration can be tailored by moving the crankpins to alter the timing. An example of this would be the Yamaha XS650, which is a vertical twin with a 270 degree firing order, like a V-twin. The Triumph Bonneville America is another example. A single cylinder motorcycle will produce a characteristic "pop-pop-pop" sound, which is why they're nicknamed "thumpers". The engine fires evenly but the interval is only once every 720 degrees. If you listen carefully, you can hear a huge difference between a V-12 Ferrari engine and a Ford 302 V8. This is caused by the difference in the V width and the number of cylinders.
An acquaintance tells me that the Apple Watch cannot be used unless you own an iPhone. How is that not an illegal "tie-in sale product" in the USA?
Your friend is truly misinformed and has no idea what they’re talking about. It can be used on it’s own, but not all functions will be available when it connects to other devices. So there’s nothing illegal about this. Even if it were made to only work with the iPhone or other Apple products, it still wouldn’t be illegal either. That argument would be as irrelevant as someone suing Ford, GM, Chrysler or any other manufacturer for making products that they can’t use in another vehicle make and model. Like trying to use the BMW V10 engine in your old Cavalier. Or use the Ford 305 V8 in your Acura. Or how about not being able to use the 4 cylinder engine from my Honda CB750F on an Yahama XS650 frame? Are these all illegal tie-ins also? No.
Why do motorcycles have mileage similar to small cars that weigh several times as much?
Some good answers here, but the main point is cars are designed for ,miles per gallon bikes are designed for ,smiles per gallon If you take a typical 600cc bike, it will have 130hp these days, give or take. That is 216 hp per liter displacement! A 3l Porsche would have to have 648hp, they do not quite reach this. Your typical small 1.6 L engined car would have to have 345 hp, even with turbo, no chance (bikes with turbo have around 300hp/liter cc). Chew on this, your 5.7 l V8 would have to have 1230hp to be comparable! You would not expect to get a good mileage from such a beast, would you? I am impressed to see people getting 80mpg from their bikes. After my first 80cc bike, I have never ever had such a low mpg, ever. The best I got was around 5.5l/100km (42 US mpg or 51UK mpg), this was for my Suzuki X7 (2 stroke, went down to 8l/100km, 29/35mpg) when driven “spirited”. Similar for my Yamaha SRX, or XS650, actually pretty similar, in fact (but the bikes were faster, 2 stroke engines are not known to be efficient in bikes). My current Suzuki TL 1000S does not care how I drive it, constant (more or less) 7–8 l/100km (33/40mpgs). You can smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, lovely, they should make an aftershave like that, or WD40. Bike engines are engineered for nearly uncompromising power (minus considerations for emissions) and that means losses (of fuel) in the engine. On a 2 stroke there is only a small region in which the efficiency is optimal, and they are designed to use up that little bit more fuel, to give you more power. 2 strokes in ships are the most efficient ICEs in circulation )run at same, optimal speed a;; day, designed for economy, and they are diesels). A small car has the same power (or far less) than modern bikes, but bikes do not need all the power for normal acceleration (they weigh fully loaded less than half compared to the small car), but at higher speeds it turns out bikes are not very aerodynamic. I think in Bonneville they get 40hp bikes to 200mph, but these aerodynamic masterpieces are only knee high. 40hp on a normal bike levels out at 95–100mph. My mpg on all my bikes were particular low, as they were all 1 or 2 cylinder bikes, known to have more torque, hence even more fun (to me). 4 cylinder bikes have usually a bit less torque, but the revv a lot higher, hence you can controll the power a lot better, if you want to go fast, go 3 gears down, revv, revv, and you go. My big 2 cylinder bike has always more torque than needed, north of 4000 RPM. A comparable (in hp) 600cc engine is really only happy north of 12 000 RPM. 4 cylinders thus can run more economical than 2 cylinders, but if you drive in high RPMs all the time, there will not be a difference (except your neighbours will kill you for the noise). Short version, bikes have low fuel economy as they have highly tuned engines compared to cars. smiles per gallon, also not good on tires, brakepads, chains and oil changes
Is Synthetic Rotella T6 Oil still JASO/MA rated safe for motorcycles?
Q: Is Synthetic Rotella T6 Oil still JASO/MA rated safe for motorcycles? Yes, it is! Rotella T6 is a FANTASTIC oil! Certainly one of the every best, if not the best. However, if an engine’s oil pump is not designed for the viscosity of the oil in it, it will make no difference how amazing the oil is! The oil will not lubricate the engine properly and will eventually lead to engine damage. Of course the quality of the oil could delay or accelerate the damage, but it will not provide the viscosity necessary for the engine’s oil pump to provide the correct oil pressure and lubrication distribution requirements. This is a simple lubrication design engineering fact. Now, T6 is being provided in different multi-grade ranges (initially there was only one) and this should provide the right viscosity for the engine’s needs. Always use oil that is within the manufacturer’s recommended spec for the motor. I use T6 in my Prius, Tacoma, BMW R1200GS, etc. They require similar viscosity ranges (5w-30, I use 5w-40), so it works. I do have an old Yamaha XS650 and I use a conventional 20W-50 in it since the pump cannot build up enough oil pressure with a 5w oil (also, I do not ride it enough to break the oil down too much before oil changes - I change the oil every 1–2K miles). All the Rotellas are excellent oils and quite capable, I would recommend Rotella T6 for any motorcycles provided the correct viscosity range is available. There are other suitable oils in the correct viscosity ranges as well, however since the T6 now comes in different viscosity ranges finding the correct viscosity is possible. For motorcycles, ensuring the correct grade/viscosity range is very important especially as some motorcycles use the same oil for motor and gearbox lubrication. The T5 is also a great oil since in the 15W-40 viscosity grade, it gives the motorcycle oil pump something more appropriate to work with. Check with your motorcycle specs and fluid requirements to see what viscosity it requires. Also see David Svoboda's comment below - very good points. Shell is not marketing any of its Rotella products for motorcycle use, but contrary to what I had written earlier (thanks to Geoffrey who corrected me) they do state that it meets JASO/MA standards or ratings. So it does meet or even surpass them, but the fact that Shell is still not advertising them as motorcycle oils just means that Shell is not considering that market for these products. Shell does not want to compete with its own Advance range of motorcycle oils even though it puts those specs on the Rotella oils as well. Ride safe and keep the rubber side down!
Which is best, a Honda or Yamaha?
I have owned both, as well as every other Japanese brand at one time or another. While Honda has legendary reliability, it all comes down to how the bike is or has been maintained, as well as the design. To be fair, Honda made some real dogs, which quietly disappeared from the pages of history. My money is on Honda, but some people like Coke, others Pepsi. My brother is an enthusiast of the Yamaha XS650, which is a seemingly unkillable classic. Many are likely to outlast their riders. The early models had vibration issues that made a 300 mile day a manly prospect. The XS650 is more or less a perfected Triumph twin, without the oil leaks. I own a 25 year-old Honda PC800 that I would not hesitate to take anywhere. It has certain features that make it a reliable bike, including shaft drive and hydraulic (never need adjusting) valves, along with a lightly stressed liquid-cooled motor. It also has very low miles for its age, yet was regularly maintained. It was previously owned by an engineer who gave it up after having hip surgery. It is so smooth that one risks falling asleep at times. On the other hand, I have seen much newer bikes that have been thrashed. One can significantly injure a bike simply by using the wrong oil. As many motorcycles have multi-plate wet clutches, using automotive oil with “high mileage” wear additives can rapidly ruin them. Not a cheap thing to fix. Some people cannot resist hacking into the wiring harness of a bike to mount various accessories. This can lead to nightmares, particularly in the rain. A friend of mine spent all winter sorting out the wiring of a classic dual-sport. And lastly, many used bikes have been maimed by owners who believe that one can magically improve performance by gouging apart mufflers, cutting holes in air boxes, and maiming carbs. The most reliable bike I have ever seen? Our family’s 1960 Vespa 150 scooter. It was given to my parents as a wedding present. It has not always been used gently through the generations. It’s probably doing better than I am.
In terms of style, is it true that the Japanese vintage motorcycles copy the Triumph Bonneville's style?
Yes, that would be a correct assumption. For the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers, copying, or at least basing their designs on proven and popular existing motorcycles was the smart thing to do. The Japanese companies were able to improve on those basic designs, literally from top to bottom, and they had the means to mass-produce them, at a lower price range. One benefit they had that both their American and British competitors lacked was cooperation from their government, or at least they enjoyed a lack of political interference. The Triumph Bonneville was immediately popular from it’s introduction in 1959. Though only very slightly different from Triumph’s other two 650cc twin-cylinder models, the TR6-R single-carb road bike and the TR6-C single-carb scrambler, the Bonneville became the star in the Triumph lineup. So it makes sense that when Yamaha decided to design a four-stroke 650cc twin, it was based closely on the Triumph Bonneville. It was even nick-named the “poor man’s Bonneville.” Besides the many smaller improvements made by Yamaha, one major change was the switch to overhead cams on the XS650, instead of the pushrod system used by Triumph. While this change did improve performance over the Triumph, when the Yamaha and Triumphs raced against each other, the overhead cam system made the Yamahas top-heavy in comparison. In flat-track racing, a lower center of gravity is a major plus. Another design improvement that worked against the Yamaha in flat-track racing was the increase in the power curve provided by the overhead cam system. While high-revving engines are a plus in other forms of racing, in American flat-track racing having horsepower and torque in the lower-revving range is vital. Though racing legend Kenny Roberts did well on the factory versions of the XS650 on dirt tracks, he complained that the engine was “top-heavy and too buzzy.” But I digress.
What is the best motorcycle for a sidecar?
Which is the “best” motorcycle for a sidecar? There is no single “best” motorcycle - it depends what you are intending to ride, and where, and maybe why as well - for fun, for utility, or for thrills and kicks? For road use, do you want a lightweight outfit for just trundling about? Or do you have a large family you need to transport? What or who are you going to transport in the sidecar? Decide what size & weight your sidecar will need to be, then you set about choosing an appropriate motorcycle to pull it. For competition use, in grasstrack or motocross the sidecar weights very little, and a two-stroke 500cc+ engine is often used these days, in preference to the big overbored XS650 twin engines which dominated for many years in the 1980. These machines demand 100% absolute trust and confidence between rider and passenger On the racetrack, I think current FIA regulations limit engines to a 600 motorcycle engine, so these machines are often highly stressed, which is why engines often fail on the Mountain course at the Isle of Man TT On the road, you can run a lightweight chair with an engine between 350cc - 650cc which will cope with carrying a passenger at “normal” road speeds, but which might struggle to cope with hilly or mountainous terrain. Ural still sell 750cc flat-twin motorcycle outfits, based on the BMW motorcycles which were used to invade the USSR in the 1940’s - these are not the fastest outfits available, but they are well developed, a solid proven, shaft drive design and are available with linked brakes and Ural are also the only manufacturer to offer a two wheel drive system. Every Ural is brutally tested in a forest track by a bunch of crazy factory testers before it is jet washed & sent to a dealer for sale to the public. For a heavy sidecar, a larger bike with a big engine, providing plenty of torque will be “best” - and you should consider either shaft drive or a heavyweight belt drive, as chain driven machines will tend to overstress & stretch chains more than a normal solo machine will ever do. For a fast sports bike, there are aerodynamic chairs shaped like wedges of cheese - but only for the serious nutter to consider here is a Kawasaki ZX14 with a modified leading link front end on a typical British low speed corner There are even hearses available — if you are planning on transporting dead bikers to their final resting place It’s all very “horses for courses”
Does someone here have any experience with the Yamaha XS400 Seca? How is it to ride and work on?
I have owned an XS400 that wasn’t a Seca and a number of XJ series bikes. I believe this qualifies me to answer your question. The XS400 Seca, despite having the XS designation, is actually much more closely related to the XJ series. This is pretty apparent if you look at the XJ550 Seca: Sure looks similar, doesn’t it? The only real difference is metal styling and the fact that the 400 is two cylinders instead of four. The XS400 that I owned was an earlier model, which was really a scaled down XS650. It is similar in terms of the ride, but very different in engine design. The 400 is a small and light bike. It will not be winning many races, but it is very capable. I used it for commute with a long highway portion. In terms of working on it, the 400 Seca is a bit more complicated than the other 400. It is a DOHC motor with shim over bucket valve train. More of a pain to adjust than the SOHC vlaves of the other XS400, but nothing too bad. If you get a used one you will usually have to do this: Set the valves Clean the carburetors Replace the fusebox You can take the fusebox one on faith and believe previous owner may have done it. However, you very definitely should not skip the valves and the carb cleaning, no matter what the previous owner told you. The carburetors are the same Mikuni carbs used in most other Yamaha bikes of the era. They are as finicky as any carburetor. If you have done carb work before, you will be fine. Other than that, it’s the same stuff as any old bike - chain, maybe bearings. Get a manual. It will make your life significantly easier.
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