toyota efi service
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toyota efi service Post Review
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toyota efi service Q&A Review
How much can you expect to pay in car maintenance as a percentage of the car's retail price?
The price of a car has as much correlation to the price of maintenance as price of an education has relation to the salary you make based off the job you get out of that education. Your answer depends on the ,Make and Model,. European cars are most expensive to maintain ,(thousands of dollars of dollars a year), followed by Domestics (high hundreds of dollars a year), followed by ,select Japanese models, (hundreds of dollars a year). From my experience, ,Toyota and Honda make the most reliable engines,. I have been purchasing, selling and driving 1997 - 2001 Toyota Camrys for years now and the typical price I pay for these are around $,3000,. They are atleast 20 years old at this point with atleast 120k miles on them. Right off the bat, I invest ,$1k, in much needed maintenance like suspension, transmission fluid, timing belt, oil pump/crank/camshaft seals, cooling system, EGR, VSV and EFI system replacements. That’s it. After that all it requires is regular oil and filter changes ($20 every 6 months). Brake pads and rotors (,$100,) every 3 years The engines are non interference (indestructible) and 4 cylinder (excellent fuel economy) These cars give me ,25mpg off cheap Costco gas. For a total of $4k in investment I have a ,rock solid tank ,that gets me ,25mpg off the cheapest Costco gas,. Each of these cars have ,atleast 200k more miles to go,. On the other hand, I make a lot of money servicing BMW and Mercedes cars. People in my area know the quality of work I do and know that I meet and exceed OEM. Last week I did a complete brake job on a BMW,. I had helped my friend get it 40% below market for $8k. Dealer quoted ,$2.7k, for the job. $1.6k in parts $1.1 in labor. We ordered performance parts off Amazon. ,$600. I did the job for ,$400. ,Typical labor is 200% more. Even at rock bottom pricing, just brakes on the ,BMW was 10x more expensive than my Camry. Don’t get me wrong. The engineering and design on those brakes are awesome. I love working on those brakes. Being an engineer, working on it is similar to having an intense love making session while replacing the brakes. The ventilation, the pad and caliper integration: ,superb overengineering, and a ,through overkill for everyday commuting,. The brakes on my Camry is ,simple, plain and cheap,. As I said, $100 every 3 years. Don’t get me started on other ,European cars,.
Is it true that you can go thousands of miles past the standard 3,000-6,000 miles for changing your car oil and have no engine problems?
For gasoline engines, generally yes you can, depending on a number of factors including the condition of your engine, the way you drive it, how far are your average trips (how far you drive it each time), the ambient conditions where you drive, the type of oil you use, and your engine’s oil capacity. For example, my 4-cylinder Toyota pickup is recommended for 5000-mile oil change intervals using regular oil. My driving is very easy on the truck and the oil, I drive in moderate temperatures most of the time, considerable highway mileage, I use full synthetic oil and the engine has a 6-quart oil capacity (large for a 4-cylinder). So I usually go around 6500–7000 miles between oil changes and the oil is not terribly dark when it drains out… maybe it could go longer but this is my comfort zone when going beyond the recommended service interval. I’ve been doing this for 6+ years, the truck now has 169,000 miles and runs perfectly. Your mileage may vary :D EDIT: The above post applies to port-injected (TPI/EFI) gasoline engines. However, gasoline direct-injection (GDI) engines tend to produce a lot of soot and fuel dilution in the oil, so their oil service intervals should not be extended. The technology is being improved, but this is how it stands in the meantime.
What is the most efficient way to fix a car fuel pump?
Almost all cars / vehicles nowadays have the fuel pump inside the gas tank. A lot of vehicles like sedans, compacts and subcompacts have the gas tank underneath the rear seat. After doing proper electrical procedures (battery disconnection, draining the power to the pump / fuse or relay removal) as well as purging the pressure inside the fuel rails, you can simply, pop out the rear car seat (or a beauty panel /service panel) in the back if you have a 2-door without rear seating. You would then be able to see a covered round access port usually with multiple screws/bolts (6 or more). After disconnecting all the electrical connections you then remove the fluid lines (usually 2). Once, all that is done, it is simply a matter of removing and pulling out the fuel pump assembly. No need to remove the fuel tank or to drain the fuel. If we are dealing with a pickup truck, an SUV and most crossover vehicles then the fuel tank is underneath the vehicle between the frame (or equivalent substructure). As mentioned by other quora members, the usual process first involves draining the tank of MOST of the fuel), removal of all electrical connections, removal of all fluid lines, and in the case of a lot of modern SUV, the vapor canister and some emmision components are probably plugged in very close to the fuel tank itself. The entire tank is then disconnected either by direct bolts from the flanges or by straps that wrap around the tank itself (some older vehicles). It is almost always nearly impossible to completely drain the tank, and is not generally needed anyway. The purpose of draining is generally to make handling and dropping the tank more convenient with little or no fuel sloshing around. The removal of the fuel pump assembly is very similar to the process for the sedan. In either case, the fuel pump is generally pulled out as an assembly and replaced as an entire assembly as well. The only exception is that some aftermarket replacements may involve just removing the “motor” part of the assembly while retaining the float, internal connections and other housing materials intact. In some of these “kits” it is also advisable to replace the fuel “sock” Here is an example of a fuel pump assembly. I just grabbed the image off of a quick google search. The “gold/brass” colored part is the actual fuel pump and behind it, you can probably make out the pillow-like shaped “sock” filter. This model also comes with an inline filter (silver Mahle branded component) for additional fitration. Some vehicles have this secondary filter outside of the tank and usually nearer the engine compartment. Some vehicles have two. It depends on the vehicle make and year model. There is generally NO fix for a fuel pump of this type. It is a sealed electrical unit. Some vehicles will allow you to change only the pump part, while others will come as one big plastic unit with nothing removable (see below) With these types of units, the fuel pump is an entire assembly and is taken out and replaced as a single unit. Now, depending on the year and model of your vehicle, you may have a mechanical fuel pump. These would be very rare on cars that are still on the road unless you are driving a restored classic vehicle or an older vehicle that still use a carburettor. There are still some Toyota Corolla’s, some Hilux pickups and domestics like the Ford Bronco that use this type of fuel pump. These CAN be rebuilt internally depending on what’s wrong with them, however, they have inherent problems like persistent leaking and fuel starvation when on an incline, etc. which led manufacturers to switch to more efficient electrical pumps. If your vehicle has some sort of EFI (electronic fuel injection), then chances are, you have an electric fuel pump as well. (all images from simple google search. Fuel pump, fuel pump assembly and mechanical fuel pump)
How easy is it to steal a car? Is it actually as simple as connecting a few wires or has beefed up security made it almost impossible?
No, it isn’t like the movies. You can’t spark two wires together (anymore) or hook up a fancy hi-tech computer to the OBDII connector. The ECM (Engine Control Module) requires a signal from the Certification Electronic Control Module. Without that code, the EFI won’t inject fuel into the engine, the car won’t get a spark, and the starter won’t crank the engine. Of course you could jump terminals 50 and 30 of the starter to the battery, but you’d only be turning the engine. Without fuel or spark, it won’t start. You cannot connect the ignition wires together. The last vehicles in which it was that simple have nearly disappeared with the introduction of the Immobilizer key/ Smart Key. If you see that in a video or on a movie, it is a hoax. I am a Toyota Technician, and I know for certain that I could not start the car without the key or key fob. It is also a common misconception that you can just hook up a computer and it will run codes until it gets the right one. Actually it is possible, but the odds of it working are <0.000003%. That’s because the immobilizer key/ key fob has a code which it transmits that has over a trillion code combination with each code unique to that vehicle. The Certification ECU gives you three tries. After that, the immobilizer electronically locks the engine and not even the most skilled technician in the world can unlock it without the password from a manufacturer specific Service Manager, a Master Diagnostic Technician or a Master Technician, and a direct satellite to car connection with a simultaneous phone call to the manufacturer. Long story short hacking into a car is nearly if not impossible to do, and hot wiring a car is literally impossible on cars equipped with an immobilizer (which is on all currently sold American cars). However, hooking up a tow truck or simply stealing the key is still of course completely in the realm of possibility. Because of difficulties stealing cars, car jackings have increased exponentially. And there’s no way to prevent that unless you’re in South Africa where you can buy a flame thrower built into the drivers door of a BMW straight from the factory (why can’t this be legal here).* Note: One thing I should mention is that Engineers at MIT have actually hacked into the AVC-LAN* network of a Tesla and successfully started the car. AVC-LAN is the network in cars used mainly for navigation and multimedia, because it contains Keep Alive Memory (KAM), it must always have a small amount of current going to it to store the memory functions. Because it always has a slight amount of current going through it, you can hack into it with the car off. Because it contains a Network Gateway on the CAN Bus Network, it becomes an excellent back door to the CAN Bus which contains many critical ECUs including both the Certification ECU and the ECM. I chose not to mess with this theory because a group of MIT super nerds walking around stealing cars is a little absurd. That and many manufacturers are working on the development of a network protocol called MOST (Media Oriented Systems Transport), it uses fiber optics in a unidirectional ring topology to transport the data currently being overseen by AVC-LAN. It can’t be hacked for two reasons. 1.) instead of using KAM it uses NVRAM (Non-Volatile Random Access Memory) which is a combination of RAM and EEPROM which I have no desire in which to explain, but the effect is that no current is required to retain the memory functions, which also means the computers enter a sleep mode. And trying to hack an ECU in sleep mode is like trying to hack an unplugged desktop, impossible with modern technology 2.) Since Fiber Optics use light to transfer data, you would have to transmit light into the cable which would require you to remove the cable, in turn causing an open, thus discontinuing communication on your unidirectional network. Have a good one all you potential car thieving degenerates who are combing this so that you can go to stealing new cars instead of Grandma’s ’96 Civic! *Update: As Philip commented below the flame thrower is not in fact factory installed. That apparently is a common misconception. After showing this comment to a friend who is more knowledgeable about automotive in general than I, he informed me that Tesla doesn't use AVC-LAN. AVC-LAN is a network designed in collaboration with Toyota and seven or eight (I cannot recall) other manufacturers to standardize automotive navigation and infotainment systems. This would aid response units who can actually communicate with the driver in the case of airbag deployment. However, because each manufacturer tweaked their version of AVC-LAN, including things like changing communication voltages, their efforts were in vain. To clarify, what the hackers accessed was Tesla’s equivalent to AVC-LAN. If there are any other problems with my answer, please comment them.
Car battery fails and engine stops when starting from stationary - funcargo with automatic gearbox? Since battery is required only for ignition, what could be wrong?
Just so I bring to your notice, you are vaguely correct. Apart from powering the accessories the only indispensable function that car batteries have is to light the spark plug for ignition. What you miss out on is that car batteries are also used as voltage regulators to the various other electronic systems such as EFI and/or electronically monitored transmission systems (such as one in the Funcargo). In the absence of this function, there is a good chance that the high voltage will kill the components governing these systems. So now your battery has failed. But that still doesn't mean that the injector/transmission has been damaged (even though I'd suggest you take a look at the injectors). Obviously, there would be a backup plan. Of course, Toyota saw how the battery failing can cause such disruption. There would, therefore, be some sort of a fuse mechanism that would act as a killswitch and stop the car before the high voltage damages the components. (Can't tell for sure what it exactly is because it varies from car to car and I haven't worked on a Funcargo yet.) I suggest you diagnose this and get it replaced from an authorized service center immediately (or let the service center diagnose it for you too, in case you are unsure).
What can cause a car to stall and go slow for a short period of time but then goes okay after about 2 miles?
Diagnosing an intermittent stalling problem can be a challenge, especially if the engine only stalls occasionally (and at the least opportune time). And if there are no pending codes, hard codes or history codes in the vehicle's computer to give you some direction, you may find yourself guessing at a diagnosis. Every engine needs three things to run and idle smoothly without stalling: a correct air/fuel ratio, sufficient idle speed for the idle load, and a good spark. If any of these is lacking, the engine may stall. Cold stalling problems are the most common because the engine needs a richer fuel mixture to maintain idle speed until it warms up. Intermittent cold stalling problems are almost always fuel-related. On older engines with carburetors, cold stalling (and hard starting) is most often due to an automatic choke that is sticking, misadjusted or broken. The engine may also be leaking vacuum around the base of the carburetor, vacuum hoses or the EGR valve. Other problems may include a faulty heat riser valve (stuck open) that prevents the intake manifold from warming up, or a defective thermostat that prevents the engine from warming up quickly or reaching normal operating temperature. Any of these things can upset the air/fuel mixture and prevent the engine from idling normally until it warms up. On fuel injected engines, cold stalling can also be caused by conditions that upset the air/fuel mixture. This includes vacuum leaks or unmetered air entering the intake manifold downstream of the airflow sensor, a faulty throttle position, MAP or oxygen sensor, dirty fuel injectors, or low fuel pressure to the injectors (weak fuel pump, faulty fuel pressure regulator or restricted fuel filter). Like older carbureted engines, a defective thermostat may be preventing the engine from warming up quickly or reaching normal operating temperature. Or, a defective coolant sensor may be telling the PCM the engine is colder (or warmer) than it really is. Any of these conditions can upset the fuel calibration of the engine and cause a stalling problem. Intermittent stalling can also be caused by a bad idle air bypass motor or a idle speed control motor. If these devices fail to provide the correct idle speed, the engine may die. Sometimes the fault is in the PCM or the inputs to the PCM. The factory programming may not provide enough idle speed when the A/C is on, when the alternator is under high load or when the temperature is extremely hot or cold. The fix here may be to reflash the PCM with the latest OEM update. A faulty MAP sensor can sometimes mislead the PCM into thinking the engine is under a greater or lesser load than it actually is. The MAP sensor senses intake vacuum, which the PCM uses to estimate load so it can adjust the air/fuel mixture accordingly. If the MAP sensor isn't reading right, the PCM will receive bad information and possibly add or subtract more fuel than it should causing the engine to stall. The same thing can happen if the throttle position sensor on a speed/density EFI system (no airflow sensor) is out of calibration or had a dead spot. The PCM may not realize the throttle is at idle, and may give the engine too much or not enough fuel causing it to stall. When attempting to diagnose an intermittent stalling problem, therefore, it is important to always use a scan tool to first check for any codes that might shed light on the condition, and secondly to look at all the essential sensor inputs to see if they are within range and are supplying accurate information to the PCM. Intermittent stalls that seem to happen at random are often ignition-related. A sudden loss of spark will kill the engine cold and prevent it from restarting. The most common causes for loss of spark include hot shorts/opens in ignition coils, ignition modules and crank position sensors. Loose or corroded wiring connectors that cause a sudden loss of voltage in the ignition circuit will also stop and engine dead in its tracks. More Causes One of the more unusual causes of intermittent stalling we've heard about is a defective vehicle speed sensor. When the vehicle stops moving, the PCM may not engage the idle speed motor (carbureted engines) or idle air bypass motor (fuel injected engines) so the engine will idle normally. We've also heard of faulty automatic shut down (ASD) relays on some older Chrysler products suddenly killing the ignition and fuel pump for no apparent reason. Replacing the relay usually cures the problem. Another cause of stalling that is often overlooked is bad gas. Moisture sometimes finds its way into underground fuel tanks, and engines don't run very well on water. Sometimes alcohol additives may not be properly mixed, or may separate from the gasoline in the presence of water. Bad gas can cause an engine to run rough or stall. If you suspect bad gas, drain the tank and refill it with fresh gas. If the problem goes away, your diagnosis was correct. Sometimes an engine will experience a stalling problem when the A/C compressor is engaged. Normally, the PCM should increase the idle speed to compensate for the added load on the engine when the A/C is on. But if the A/C signal fails to reach the PCM because of a communications glitch between the A/C module and PCM, the PCM may fail to increase idle speed causing the engine to lug or stall. According to Ford TSB 04-21-13, a cold stalling problem with 2003-2004 Ford Focus models with 2.0L SPI engine during extremely cold weather can be caused by a faulty PCV valve that sticks open, allowing too much air to be sucked into the intake manifold. Ford has also issued a recall (04S13) for 2001-2003 Ford Escape sport utility vehicles with 3.0L V6 engines for an intermittent stalling problem. The stalling typically occurs while decelerating at speeds below 40 miles per hour. The problem is caused by the calibration of the idle air control valve and evaporative emissions system. The fix here is to reflash the PCM with updated information. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is currently investigating reports of sudden stalling with Toyota Prius hybrid electric cars. For reasons which have yet to be explained, the engine will suddenly shut down at speeds of 35 to 65 mph. In some cases the vehicle can still be driven in the electric mode, but in others everything goes dead and the car has to be towed. No word yet from Toyota of the cause, but it will probably turn out to be a PCM programming issue. Diagnostic Strategies One strategy for diagnosing a stalling problem that only occurs intermittently is to wait until the problem gets worse before you attempt to diagnose it. It's always easier to find a part that has failed than to find one that works most of the time and only acts up occasionally. One time saving step that may allow you to zero right in on the cause is to check for any Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that might have been published by the vehicle manufacturer. It may be a situation where there's a pattern failure and the manufacturer has already figured out the problem and posted a fix. The few minutes you invest in doing a TSB search can save you hours of frustration and wasted diagnostic time. And with many late model vehicles, the cure is often a PCM reflash rather than replacing something. The next thing you should always do is hook up a scan tool and check for codes even if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is not on (the lamp may be defective). Look for history codes or pending codes that may shed light on the problem. Also, look at the sensor inputs to the PCM when the engine is idling (both after a cold start and when it is warm). You should also look at short term and long term fuel trim. Is the engine running unusually rich or lean? That would tell you something is amiss. Another basic check that should always be made is to check battery voltage and charging voltage. A low battery, weak alternator or over-voltage condition can all play havoc with onboard electronics. Solenoids and relays all require minimum voltages to function properly, so if the battery or charging system are not within normal specifications you may have found the root cause of the problem. If a problem has left no tracks (no trouble codes or odd readings to steer you in a particular direction), is there a pattern? Does the engine only stall when it is cold or hot? Does it only occur during wet weather (might be bad spark plug wires)?
I was thinking of buying a 2002 Toyota Landcruiser. However, it has done 360,000 km. What should I expect in terms of maintenance costs?
I'm very surprised at the other answers here. Toyota Landcruisers are famous for their reliability and longevity. This is why they are the vehicle of choice in remote regions of the world. I own a 1999 Totoyta Landcruiser 105 (4.5 EFI) with ~400,000 km on it (a lot of it on dirt roads/ off road). It has been well maintained and I fully expect it to go another 400,000 km. In fact, I regularly take it on very remote trips in Southern Africa with little fear of getting stuck somewhere. When buying the vehicle, I did a lot of research and found a number of stories of Landcruisers with close to 1,000,000 km on them on remote African farms. These machines were completely over-engineered to last, if maintained. The key will be to ascertain the maintenance history of the vehicle. Take it to a mechanic who knows Landcruisers for an inspection. As to the cost of maintenance: the basic maintenance is very cheap - I paid $275 (ZAR 5,000) for a complete service incl. fluids, spark plugs etc. recently. Obviously, if you use it off-road and with time, you will have to also replace some parts. I recently replaced the ABS brake pump (this part is expensive), suspension, bushes, and a few other minor parts for $1,800 (ZAR 33,000). Those bigger bills will come once in a while, as they do with any vehicle. I would expect simar bills on newer, less capable 4x4s that I cannot expect to drive >400,000 km.
What vehicle will get 300,000 miles or more and still be reliable?
What vehicle will get 300,000 miles or more and still be reliable? Obviously, if it’s a used car, the unseen element is “what life did it live to get to this point?” and that can vary widely and wildly. Yes, some vehicles have a comparatively easy life, driven by a little old lady once per week to Sunday services and once weekly to Bingo on Tuesday night, never got to 40MPH, twice-yearly oil changes whether it needs it or not. An identical vehicle can have served as a daily-driven workhorse for a courier who felt that one oil change every couple of years was plenty, and that the best speed to drive is around 80. In 2006 I bought a work truck from a guy who owned a carpentry business. It was a 1993 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6-cylinder engine, automatic. It had 111,000 miles on it. It’d been through hell, but I saw potential. I still have it and it now has 276,000. She’s starting to badly show her years. Transmission is going bad, engine is played out. I sincerely doubt she’ll be running in another 10,000 miles…but I thought the same thing at 200,000 and was proved wrong. There are certain qualifications that I like in a vehicle that lends itself well to longevity, and most modern car aficionados will hate every single one of them. Still, here they are; Simplicity. My GMC is alive because it’s relatively simple. TBI-EFI gives better MPG at the cost of simplicity, but there’s no brainbox trying to shut the engine off at a stop light and restarting it, or trying to tailor itself to factors that are constantly variable. It’s way more sophisticated than a Model T, but it’s not trying to be too much or do too much. Engine starts, runs, and stops when you turn it off. Outside the powertrain, there are no features trying to monitor and react to outside influences. The windows are manual, the door locks are manual. It works because it does a simple job and nothing more. I suspect the auto industry is moving toward electrics that will get some of their power from solar. This will probably be fine if they keep it simple. Trying to do too much, make the car sense available light and so some sort of fancy switching or whatever…non-viable. There’s a reason there are a lot of old cars on the road still; they weren’t expected to be anything more than a car, and they were built simply even at the expense of features. The more you expect a vehicle to do, the more functions it can have a systemic malfunction from. Can a modern car keep running if the AC system goes out? I don’t know, but my truck has. Proven. It was around the time I bought my truck that my county finally got new road-department trucks to replace the trucks they were using…Early-’90s GMC and Chevy pickups like the one I bought! Those trucks dealt with various drivers every day, hard use, and providing they got treated nicely in terms of maintenance, they endured. This told me that as long as I maintained it sensibly and didn’t ask more of it than it could do, this truck would last a damn long time. Will a Leaf or Volt be viable for a car that’s expected to pass a quarter million miles? Dunno, haven’t seen one do it, yet. In twenty, twenty-five years, a Volt might be my favorite car ever built, but right now I don’t know if it has “the stuff” to endure. In that, the old saying holds true; only time will tell. Think of industry vehicles that have high mileage/abuse, what make/model are they? I figure if an entity can see a certain make or model as viable long enough to get it to high mileage, it can’t be too much of a hassle or they’d stop using it. Even I would grow weary of a vehicle that was always in need of overhaul and refurbishment. I don’t see many companies using a make/model to get high-mileage out of if it lasts six months and needs a new engine. Serviceable. This, I confess, is why I bought my GMC. There isn’t a job on it (aside from the transmission rebuild it needs) that I’m not comfortable doing. The thing that makes this viable is that I know if a hack like me feels confident and capable of fixing it, I ,know, any shop worth talking to isn’t going to struggle at all with it. When mechanics struggle, that results in higher repair bills. This directly relates to longevity. Oh, it needs a water pump, oh dearie me, that’s a $1300 repair, I don’t know if the car is worth that much! Meanwhile, over here in “Haha, that guy’s driving a junky old truck!” land, I replaced the water pump in my truck with comparative ease, and the pump (not the cheapest one available) cost $45. Few shops would quote me a ridiculous price to put the pump on mine because it doesn’t require nearly as much labor for them. If they have to take twelve parts off the car and loosen the engine mounts to tilt the engine over just to replace the spark plugs? You’re talking about a vehicle that isn’t cheap to keep! This ties back to the point on simplicity, but it’s merely a byproduct of the simplified design. If it’s easy to maintain and cheap to maintain, you’ll tolerate it long enough to ,get, to 300k. If it’s a money pit pain in the ass to do anything with, the novelty of paying $400 for a new serpentine belt will convince you it’s non-viable long before it is. _ There is no list of makes and models even with these factors in mind, because I could only tell you my personal favorites; Toyota Tacoma 1995–2004 or the unnamed Toyota pickup prior to ‘95, Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra (same truck, different badges) 1975–1999, any year Chevy Lumina (NOT the shithouse rat van that sullied the name of Lumina), and any year Ford Crown Victoria 1992–2012. If I’m going car shopping tomorrow, those are what I’d be looking for, and I’m not looking for anything but them. I suspect a Nissan Frontier is designed for longevity, but hasn’t been proven to me and I’d only pull the trigger if I were 100% confident that it’s the best deal I can get. You’ll note, there’s a lot of Chevy, only one obvious Ford, and no Mopar. This is why I said there’s no way anybody can give you an unbiased list. If the Ford Ranger were promoted as the best truck ever made, as a GMC/GM supporter and owner I am forced by conviction to be nauseated by even considering verbalizing that. I had trouble recommending the Crown Vic, really. Great car (gag), and if I had to buy a car to start a taxi company, I’d buy a Crown Vic (gag). Weird part of American Car Culture, if you’re a Ford guy, you hate GM. If you love GM, you hate Ford. Dodge/Mopar? They’re like the cousin everybody hopes doesn’t show up at the family reunion. As a GM guy…I’d rather have GM product that’s worn out than to be seen in most brand new Fords, it’s cultural.
What are your top 10 future car classics from the 80s you think will pick up value (under $30,000)?
There is a big gap in 80's automobiles in relation to future classics in relation to U.S. Market automobiles. So many of these cars were first generation front wheel drive and were pretty unremarkable. K Car, Tempo, Cavalier, Lumina and the Cadillac Cimarron. The rear wheel drives were not much better, Chrysler 5th Avenue, Crown Victoria, Chevrolet Caprice, and who can forget the Jelly Bean Ford T-Bird. All unremarkable. The early years were plagued by poor carburation and low power. The carbs when worn out were virtually impossible to rebuild so you paid big money for a new one if you were going to keep the car. Emission testing was sweeping the country and failures condemned a lot of cars to exemptions and eventually the scrap heap. It was just a dark time as engineering was not on par with the costs of fuel, and emission mandates. They took vehicles, shrunk them down added plastics. They were achieving CAFE (corporate average fuel economies) by selling underpowered inefficient 4 cylinders and hanging a turbo on them and low HP low compression V8's. The mid 80's Mustang V8 was about 145 HP. Same with the Camaro. They were adding gears 5 speeds and overdrive automatics but nothing was working particularly well. By the very late 80's EFI was coming on board and solving problems. But very few bright spots. Here are the ones I remember. The Buick Grand Nationals. Mustang GT or V8 LX Camaro IROC The V8 G Bodies of GM. Cutlass, Gran Prix, Regal and Monte Carlo. Cadillac had the Hump Back Seville. Pretty wild looking and nice to drive but had bad technology. The 4,6,8 motor preceded by the 350 V8 diesel and finally the blow up at 30,000 miles 4.2 baby V8. These were just poor performing but sort of exciting looking cars and few have survived. A couple Mopar's. 1980 Dodge Magnum T Top. The Ram Charger sport utility. Ford Bronco. GM K5 Blazer. On the Japanese side there was the Toyota Supra and Nissan 280ZX, and the Toyota FJ40. They 80's were dark days in the car business. I went to Fiat for a few years to sell sports cars new and used. People buying Italian and German cars expected high service costs. They were not disappointed.
For what reason does an LPG running engine oil burning after 2.500 km's following a refill?
I’m owning a ’97 ae101 toyota corolla, 4AFE engine with multipoint EFI system, 114 HP, 172.xxx km’s on the clock, good serviced, not any oil leakage observing, but the problem is that the LPG running engine starts to consume the refilled engine oil after 2.500–3.000 km’s. Everything including the oil color, smell, appearance and level etc. are well until I reach about 2.500 km’s. And after 2.500–3000 km’s the engine starts to consume the oil… The consumption is about 750 ml/5.000 km. Mobil 1 10W-40 has been used earlier but I’ve decided to change it. I’ve made a refill with Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 gasoline-lpg type oil. The production date was december 2016. I’m not sure If the expiry date has a serious impact on the performance but I would like to know. I have had performed a compression test and each of the 4 cylinders produced a pressure value of about 130 psi. No smoke and no smell. The valve guides, valve seals are replaced 15.000 kms’s ago. In general, the engine is still in factory state according to my mechanic’s statement. So, why starts the car burning the oil after 2.500 - 3000 km after refill?
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