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jaguar egr valve Post Review
Three Jaguars from today, X-Type 2.2d non starting due to EGR Valve seized. XK Coupe for Service and MOT and XF 3.0d for Service and Front Brakes https://t.co/02J4175vhB
Very busy day today at the garage, here’s some of what we’ve done today: Jaguar XK8 4.2 in for Rear Suspension Bushes and Drop Links, Jaguar S-Type 2.5 V6 in for O2 Sensor and Jaguar XF 2.2d for EGR Valve and Drivers Door Lock https://t.co/R0lfO42hta
(Sponsored eBay) P901168 2010 2011 Jaguar XF Exhaust Control Valve EGR 4.2L 6L34-9H465-BA OEM https://t.co/GCPu8bq9Vf https://t.co/s2V2XkLhgI
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jaguar egr valve Q&A Review
What is the hardest car to work on?
It’s very difficult to provide a single or a particular vehicle that could be considered the hardest to work on with so many car manufacturers on the market today that offer so many different models. The degree of difficulty that is to be encountered while working on any given car depends on several key factors. These are engine and transmission configuration, the extent to which ergonomics are taken into account for maintenance, repairs, and service operations, as well as the role engine management devices play. Jaguar XJS Engine Bay Modern engine configurations fall into three main categories according to cylinder placement. They are In-line, V, and the double V or W. There are additionally boxer ‘Flat’ engines. There are variations within each of the first three categories. There are in line four (L4), five (L5), and six (L6) cylinder engines (L6). There are six (V6), eight (V8), ten (V10), and twelve (V12) cylinder engines. There is an eight (W8) cylinder engine. There are four and six cylinder boxer engines. BMW L4 Engine Audi L5 Engine Aston-Martin L6 Engine Mercedes-Benz M-Class V6 Engine Jaguar V8 Engine Lamborghini V10 Engine Ferrari V12 Engine VW W8 Engine Subaru Flat Four Porsche Flat Six The L4, L5, and L6 engines are by far the easiest to work on, they offer the easiest access to engine components and peripherals inside the engine bay. This holds true provided the drivetrain configuration places the L4 and L5 engines longitudinally, in line with the length of the car, and not transversally, in line with the width of the car. Mercedes-Benz SLK L4 Engine Bay Volvo S40 L5 Engine Bay (Transversal) BMW Z4 L6 Engine Bay The degree to which V series engines are easy to work on depends largely on the free engine bay room the manufacturers leave available for maneuvering when the drivetrain configuration is longitudinal. The V6 engines can be particularly difficult to work on if the drive train configuration is transversal. The V12 engines are the more difficult as there is very little engine bay room. Toyota Camry V6 Engine Bay (Transversal) BMW 750iL V12 Engine Bay European manufacturers seem to invest more into research and development efforts aimed at the efficiency and the improvement of the ease of maintenance, repairs, and service operations through ergonomics. They are by far the easiest to work on, although there are some exceptions to the rule. Korean manufacturers appear to follow their lead, while it could be argued that some Japanese designs adhere to the philosophy as well. Most Japanese and American cars however are by far the worse in this category. Mercedes-Benz C300 Oil Filter - Under the hood, ample access Acura TL Oil Filter - Located under the engine and near the hot exhaust Dodge Nitro Oil Filter - Located under the engine, lower engine shield must be removed. Engine management device design and function plays an important role too. European manufacturers don’t just go out of their way to ensure their engines look like a piece of art, they also make sure there are no messy arrays of connectors, harnesses, hoses, and sensors. Their management devices are electronically driven. Japanese manufacturers install complicated webs of engine management devices that are interconnected by dozens of feet of vacuum hoses. American manufacturers don’t rely that heavily on vacuum circuits but their engine management devices location, size, and connection harnesses are clumsy. Mercedes-Benz E320 Vacuum Lines Diagram Honda Accord Vacuum Lines Diagram Mercedes-Benz EGR Valve - Compact and practical design Ford EGR Valve - Bulky, complicated, and impractical design
How do Toyota cars last 300,000 miles?
I bought my Land Cruiser (1986) with 310,000 miles on it sight unseen and have added another 10k or so since owning it, after having done a lot of work on it myself. There are probably newer cars with more miles on them, so the answers will be different, but I do have a few ideas about why my car in particular has lasted this long. it’s really easy to work on. That means the DIYer can stay on top of maintenance items more easily, and I presume that would also translate into lower labor costs when you have someone else do the work. After all, end of life decisions for cars often comes down to the cost of keeping it running outweighing the intrinsic value of the car, right? OEM parts are still available, and the aftermarket sector is healthy. I’ve had fewer run ins with the dreaded 3-letter acronym NLA, that helps a lot. I loved my Acura Legend, but once I discovered that you couldn’t get a replacement windshield (or EGR valve, or ANY trim pieces…) it had to go. Reliability translates to attachment, and to an easier justification to spend money when you need to. My first time driving my car was the 700 mile drive home from where I bought it. It was an absolute unit, but I hit bad traffic 20 miles outside of my home town… Then the clutch master cylinder failed… That’s a call to AAA for any other vehicle but I was able to limp this wagon home by only using the clutch to engage gears, and staying in 2nd as much as possible. this thing was purpose built for harsh conditions and it was extremely well built for that purpose. I grew immediately attached to the car in a way that I haven’t generally felt towards a machine, purely because it didn’t let me down in a pinch. That will surely translate into my willingness to open my wallet when the time comes. Last but certainly not least: The ,Toyota Production System (TPS) ,actually works. In my experience if you study any given car you can get a sense for when and where the bean counters had their way (corners cut, costs saved) and where the designers/engineers got theirs. In my experience Toyotas tend to focus the higher build quality on the components that contribute to safety and reliability, and compromise on aesthetics. That’s the opposite of, say, a Jaguar or more recently any luxury car out of Germany. At least, those have been my observations.
Why do Jaguars have a reputation for being so unreliable?
As many people have written, the BL years weren’t great. My experience with Jags starts with the series 3 and along the way have been a string of XJ’s - XJ40, X300, X350. I’ve had 4 x-types, an XE and an XF. All up I’ve done at least half a million miles in these cars. The important thing with Jags in my experience is that they are designed to be maintained. For example on the XJ, wheel bearings and bushes are a maintenance item, not something that lasts the lifetime of the car. If you have a maintenance mindset, anything Ford era or later that has been looked after should run forever as long as its maintained. Bodywork ford era or later is fine. I’m still running a 2006 x-type and the bodywork is completely clean. I sold my XJ40 14 years old with 262000 miles on the clock, still going strong, and sold my X300 to a mate with 170K on the clock, then helped him sell it a year later with 190K on the clock, still with plenty of life in it. A large part of the reason for perceived reliability issues is poor maintenance. Find a good independent mechanic who specialises in Jags if you can’t do it yourself. Take somebody who knows what to watch for if you’re buying secondhand. If you can, get hold of the JTIS workshop manual for Ford generation Jags. Unless you have a new Jag and need the dealer history, you should maybe avoid Jaguar dealers for servicing (they ain’t called ‘Jaguar Stealers’ for nothing). Servicing will be top dollar and may not be done with a ‘maintenance mindset’. Total cost of ownership doesn’t have to be eye-watering. If you do it right, the biggest cost will be fuel. I’d avoid the Ford 4-cylinder diesels which have been known to suffer problems with DPF, EGR valves, turbo and head gaskets on high-milers. The V8s are generally fun but will leave you out of pocket one way or another and not a good long-term proposition IMO. So its either a new or newish Jag and pay for the depreciation or something with the a version of the AJ-V6 (since cars with the venerable AJ6 will probably be rotting by now).
Is it possible to visually inspect a spark plug and determine if it's functional? What do I look for?
My indentureship was specializing in Jaguar cars so learning how to read a spark plug was important in diagnosis and the customer being on his way faster.But the crappy Lucas Distributors and triple S.U carbs meant frequently cleaning spark plug and proper tuning.Firstly,removing and keeping each spark plug marked and in order before inspection is paramount.,By, inspecting the entire ceramic part for signs of cracking is vitally important even around the Centre electrode.Aftermarket additives in oil and fuels can make reading a plug a little harder but looks rather like light coloured build up that can cover a lot of the plug.ANY mechanical damage to the spark plug’s face and be sure there’s a nasty cause.Then look at the Centre electrode which should be level square and gapped when new.When filing always use a Magneto file!Most plugs can be ordered preset to the right gap so there is no excessive bending of the outer electrode necessary to get a smaller gap but still check the gap anyway.Ensuring the outer electrode is not twisted or abnormally shaped and square cut and shiny on the side.Always ensure the metal around the seat of the spark plug on the engine is perfectly clean so the plug can dissipate heat!And coil polarity is correct or this will cause sparking issues.Sand blasting plugs clean again for too long can damage the porcelain.Never clean plugs with a wire brush as it can deposit fine particles of iron on the insulator near the Centre electrode And May cause a short to earth under load.Ensure plugs are perfectly clean,the correct heat range,gapped correctly and a small amount of anti seize compound on the mid to upper thread.Some like to use new plug gaskets if re using a plug.The colour should be a light tan even in colour without any spatter where the ceramic insulator surrounds the central electrode which may indicate overheating.Using leaded fuel may turn the insulator face a yellowy colour and the plug may have a coating like it’s looking really old.A very black plug indicates just carbon fouling (too rich) and if oil is all over the spark plug face it may indicate oil bypassing the rings or badly worn valve seals.If the complete Centre electrode is melted away or looks like severe welding splatter then may indicate more serious issues such as pre ignition,detonation or incorrect heat range plug that’s way to hot.A colder plug may just show all plugs to be a darker coloring that is brown and not tan.There is just so much more to learn ,just a basic description here.Timing too far advanced or retarded may be seen on the plug,–,and can cause a portion of the inner insulation around the central electrode to crack and even fall away.Pre ignition and detonation will look much worse than this and as I said before can cause melting,moulten spatter,porcelain loss.If a plug is left loose and eventually blows out then the thread will be damaged..If an older vehicle is burning oil it is customary to use a spark plug one heat range hotter to burn off some of that extra oil.On vehicles using LPG which burns cooler than petrol then a plug one step cooler is used and the gap dropped down say from 0.044” to 0.035”as LPG is more denser and harder for the spark to jump through the denser charge.If timing is out either too far advanced or retarded it can show on a spark plug.It’s vitally important that they all look much the same,If say two plugs together are looking oily,greasy or have a watery appearance then it may be indicative of a blown head gasket.Or on one cylinder especially near the EGR valve may mean the valve needs checking or cleaning.When cleaning a spark plug it’s important that there is enough electrode to file level and is worthgapped to the correct specifications.Some set the gap mid range of the specs to allow for wear over time.Others set to the higher limit because it improves idling but they check their plugs more regularly.But always place a small amount of anti seize compound or wheel bearing grease only on the mid to upper thread and fit them in by hand all the way before finger tight.Then tighten them up carefully.Use a Torque wrench if uncertain.Aluminium heads can easily be stripped compared to cast iron.Never over tighten or strip the thread and back it off two turns,.as, they say in the trade.
What is the annual cost of maintaining a luxury car?
The most expensive thing most Americans own, after their house, is their car. On average, Americans spend 5% of their income on purchasing a car. Another 5% goes towards ongoing maintenance and insurance costs. But not every car costs the same to keep it running. And different cars have varying risks of leaving their drivers suddenly immobilized. At YourMechanic, we have a massive dataset of the make and model of the cars we have serviced and the type of maintenance done. We decided to use our data to understand which cars break down the most and have the highest maintenance costs. We also looked into which types of maintenance are most common to certain cars. First, we looked at which major brands cost the most to maintain over the first 10 years of a car’s life. We grouped all years of all models by brand to compute their median cost by brand. In order to estimate annual maintenance costs, we found the amount spent on every two oil changes (as oil changes are generally done every six months). Which Car Brands Cost the Most to Maintain? Based on estimates of total car maintenance over 10 years Rank Car Brand Cost 1 BMW $17,800 2 Mercedes-Benz $12,900 3 Cadillac $12,500 4 Volvo $12,500 5 Audi $12,400 6 Saturn $12,400 7 Mercury $12,000 8 Pontiac $11,800 9 Chrysler $10,600 10 Dodge $10,600 11 Acura $9,800 12 Infiniti $9,300 13 Ford $9,100 14 Kia $8,800 15 Land Rover $8,800 16 Chevrolet $8,800 17 Buick $8,600 18 Jeep $8,300 19 Subaru $8,200 20 Hyundai $8,200 21 GMC $7,800 22 Volkswagen $7,800 23 Nissan $7,600 24 Mazda $7,500 25 Mini $7,500 26 Mitsubishi $7,400 27 Honda $7,200 28 Lexus $7,000 29 Scion $6,400 30 Toyota $5,500 Luxury imports from Germany, such as BMW and Mercedes-Benz, along with domestic luxury brand Cadillac, are the most expensive. A Toyota is about $10,000 less expensive over 10 years, just in terms of maintenance. Toyota is by far the most economical manufacturer. Scion and Lexus, the second and third most inexpensive brands, are both Toyota subsidiaries. Together, all three are 10% below the median cost. Most domestic brands, like Ford and Dodge, are in the middle of the pack. While luxury cars call for the most expensive maintenance, many budget vehicles rank relatively high. Kia, an entry-level brand, surprises with maintenance costs 1.3 times the median. In this case, sticker prices don't represent maintenance costs. Knowing the relative maintenance costs of brands can be informative, but it’s also important to consider how car costs change with age. This chart looks at the median annual cost of maintenance across all brands. Maintenance costs increase as the car ages. A stable, consistent increase of $150 per year in costs exists for years 1 through 10. After that, there is a distinct jump between 11 and 12 years of age. After age 13, costs plateau around $2,000 per year. This is likely because people disown their cars if maintenance costs are higher than their cars’ worth. Even within brands, not all cars are created equal. How do specific models compare directly to one another? We drilled down by splitting up all cars by model to look at 10 year maintenance costs. Which Car Models Cost the Most to Maintain? Based on total car maintenance costs over 10 years Rank Car Brand Cost 1 Chrysler Sebring $17,100 2 BMW 328i $15,600 3 Nissan Murano $14,700 4 Mercedes-Benz E350 $14,700 5 Chevrolet Cobalt $14,500 6 Dodge Grand Caravan $14,500 7 Dodge Ram 1500 $13,300 8 Audi A4 Quattro $12,800 9 Mazda 6 $12,700 10 Subaru Forester $12,200 11 Acura TL $12,100 12 Nissan Maxima $12,000 13 Chrysler 300 $12,000 14 Ford Mustang $11,900 15 Audi A4 $11,800 16 Volkswagen Passat $11,600 17 Ford Focus $11,600 18 Chevrolet Impala $11,500 19 Honda Pilot $11,200 20 Mini Cooper $11,200 The 20 priciest car models in term of maintenance cost all require, at a minimum, a staggering $11,000 to maintain over 10 years. These estimates include expensive one-off costs, like a transmission rebuild, that skew the mean higher. According to our data, Chrysler's Sebring is the most expensive car to maintain, which is likely one of the reasons why Chrysler revamped it in 2010. German imports (such as BMW’s 328i and Mercedes-Benz’ E350) along with many manufacturers’ luxury or full-sized models (such as the Audi A4 Quattro) are quite expensive as well. Now we know which cars are money pits. So which vehicles are a thrifty, reliable choice? Which Car Models Have the Lowest Maintenance Cost? Based on total car maintenance costs over 10 years Rank Car Brand Cost 1 Toyota Prius $4,300 2 Kia Soul $4,700 3 Toyota Camry $5,200 4 Honda Fit $5,500 5 Toyota Tacoma $5,800 6 Toyota Corolla $5,800 7 Nissan Versa $5,900 8 Toyota Yaris $6,100 9 Scion xB $6,300 10 Kia Optima $6,400 11 Lexus IS250 $6,500 12 Nissan Rogue $6,500 13 Toyota Highlander $6,600 14 Honda Civic $6,600 15 Honda Accord $6,600 16 Volkswagen Jetta $6,800 17 Lexus RX350 $6,900 18 Ford Fusion $7,000 19 Nissan Sentra $7,200 20 Subaru Impreza $7,500 Toyota and other Asian imports are the least expensive cars to maintain, with the Prius living up to its well-known reputation for reliability. Along with many Toyota models, Kia’s Soul and Honda’s Fit hold close to Prius’s low-cost lead. Toyota’s Tacoma and Highlander are also on the low-cost leaderboard, even though the list is dominated by compact and mid-sized sedans. Toyota completely avoids the the most expensive models list. So what, specifically, makes some brands more expensive than others? Some brands have a higher incidence of routine maintenance. But some cars tend to have the same problems time and again. We looked at which brands have maintenance requirements that occur unusually often for that particular brand. For each brand and issue, we compared the frequency to the median across all the cars we serviced. Unusually Common Car Issues Based on issues found by YourMechanic and compared to the median car Car Brand Car Issue Issue Frequency Mercury Fuel pump replacement 28x Chrysler Exhaust gas recirculation/EGR valve replacement 24x Infiniti Camshaft position sensor replacement 21x Cadillac Intake manifold gasket replacement 19x Jaguar Check Engine Light is on inspection 19x Pontiac Intake manifold gasket replacement 19x Dodge Exhaust gas recirculation/EGR valve replacement 19x Plymouth Not starting inspection 19x Honda Valve clearance adjustment 18x BMW Window regulator replacement 18x Ford PCV valve hose replacement 18x BMW Idler pulley replacement 18x Chrysler Overheating inspection 17x Saturn Wheel bearing replacement 17x Oldsmobile Not starting inspection 17x Mitsubishi Timing belt replacement 17x BMW Drive belt tensioner replacement 16x Chrysler Camshaft position sensor replacement 16x Jaguar Battery service 16x Cadillac Leaking coolant 16x Jeep Crankshaft position sensor replacement 15x Chrysler Engine mount replacement 15x Mercedes-Benz Crankshaft position sensor 15x Mercury is the brand that suffered most chronically from a design flaw. In this case, Mercury cars most frequently had fuel pump issues (Mercury was discontinued by parent company Ford in 2011). We can see some issues cross from brand to brand within the same manufacturer. For example, Dodge and Chrysler, which are both part of the Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA) conglomerate, can’t seem to get their exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valves working correctly. Their EGRs need to be fixed at roughly 20 times the national median rate. But there’s one problem customers care more about than any other: which cars will simply refuse to start? We answer this question in the below chart, which limits the comparison to cars 10 years old or less. Car Brands Most Likely Not to Start Based on service by YourMechanic and compared to the median model Rank Car Brand Frequency of Car Not Starting 1 Hummer 9x 2 Mercury 6x 3 Chrysler 6x 4 Saturn 5x 5 Dodge 5x 6 Mitsubishi 4x 7 BMW 4x 8 Suzuki 4x 9 Pontiac 4x 10 Buick 4x 11 Land Rover 3x 12 Mercedes-Benz 3x 13 Chevrolet 3x 14 Jeep 3x 15 Ford 3x 16 GMC 3x 17 Acura 3x 18 Cadillac 2x 19 Scion 2x 20 Lincoln 2x 21 Nissan 2x 22 Mazda 2x 23 Volvo 2x 24 Infiniti 2x 25 Kia 2x Although this could be a reflection of some owners’ diligence just as much as the cars' build quality, the results of this list are quite damning: three of the top five brands were discontinued in the last several years. In addition to the now-defunct brands, the premium segment (such as Mercedes-Benz, Land Rover, and BMW) is represented in this list. Notably absent are many of the brands from the least expensive list: Toyota, Honda, and Hyundai. But the brand doesn’t reveal everything about a car. We dove into the particular models that don’t start with the greatest frequency. Car Models Most Likely Not to Start Based on service by YourMechanic and compared to the median model Rank Car Model Frequency of Car Not Starting 1 Hyundai Tiburon 26x 2 Dodge Caravan 26x 3 Ford F-250 Super Duty 21x 4 Ford Taurus 19x 5 Chrysler PT Cruiser 18x 6 Cadillac DTS 17x 7 Hummer H3 11x 8 Nissan Titan 10x 9 Chrysler Sebring 10x 10 Dodge Ram 1500 10x 11 BMW 325i 9x 12 Mitsubishi Eclipse 9x 13 Dodge Charger 8x 14 Chevrolet Aveo 8x 15 Chevrolet Cobalt 7x 16 Mazda MX-5 Miata 7x 17 Mercedes-Benz ML350 6x 18 Chevrolet HHR 6x 19 Mitsubishi Galant 6x 20 Volvo S40 6x 21 BMW X3 6x 22 Pontiac G6 6x 23 Dodge Caliber 6x 24 Nissan Pathfinder 6x 25 Saturn Ion 6x The worst cars failed to start 26 times as often as the median, perhaps explaining why some of these models got the axe: the Hyundai Tiburon, Hummer H3, and Chrysler Sebring (all in the top 10) were discontinued. Some premium models make it into the shameful list as well, including BMWs and several Mercedes-Benz models. For as long as cars have existed, Americans have debated car ownership and the questions of cost and reliability. This data reveals which companies live up to their reputation for reliability (Toyota), which brands sacrifice reliability for prestige (BMW and Mercedes-Benz), and which models deserved to be discontinued (the Hummer 3). Still, car maintenance is about much more than the median cost. Factors such as how well a car is maintained, how often it is driven, where it is driven, and how it is driven all affect maintenance costs. Your mileage may vary. Source: ,The Most and Least Expensive Cars to Maintain | YourMechanic Advice
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