intercooler cleaning cost
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What are the servicing and maintenance costs of a new Mercedes Benz C Class 220 in India (Pune)?
Unlike, basic/commuter segment cars, the luxury/performance cars such as Mercedes Benzand other German cars do not need frequent service. They require service only once in a year, i.e., 15,000kms/365days, butthat is quite costly.The first service for a Mercedes Benz C Class 220 in Pune, or any other city of the country would cost nearly 25–30k. Here is a detailed estimate cost for servicing/repairing/replacing parts for a Mercedes Benz car. Mercedes Benz Service / Repair / Part Part Cost / Service Cost (Estimated) Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement - Rs 10000 Air Filter - Rs 4500 Cabin AC Micro Filter - Rs 4000 Pollen Filter- Rs 1200 - 1500 Gear Transmission Oil - Rs 7000 Power Steering Oil - Rs 3000 AC Disinfectant - Rs 3000 AC Compressor Oil - Rs 8500 Coolant - Rs 6000 Fuel Filter - Rs 6000 - 8000 Spark Plug Set Replacement (Applicable in TFSI / Petrol Car Range) - Rs 10000 Body Wash, Basic Clean & Engine Degrease- Rs 3000 Body Wax Polish Detailed -Rs 7000 - 8000 Car Interior Dry Clean with Germ Clean -Rs 8000 - 10000 Wheel Alignment & Balancing - Rs 6000 - 7000 Brake Pads Replacement (Pair) - Rs 30000- 32000 Brake Disc Replacement (Pair) - Rs 30000- 35000 Battery Replacement - Rs 18000- 20000 Power Foldable & Heated Side ORVM Replacement - Rs 40000- 50000 for each side Battery Replacement - Rs 25000- 35000 Front Shock Absorber Pair Assembly (Both Left & Right) - Rs 60000- 70000 Headlight Assembly (Xenon Plus) - Each Side - Rs 1.5 Lakh Rear Tail Light - Each side - Rs 30000- 35000 Alloy Wheel Set (16 Inch - 17 Inch) - Set of 4 Alloys - Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Injectors Replacement - Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Assembly (Pump + Injectors + Fuel Unit + Distributor) - Rs 3 - 4 Lakh Parking Sensor - Rs 10000 Bumper Replacement (Paint cost additional) - Rs 60000- 90000 Bonnet Replacement (Paint cost additional) - Rs 1 - 1.5 Lakh DRL - Daytime Running Light Each Side - Rs 30000- 40000 Intercooler Replacement -Rs 50000- 60000 AC Compressor Assembly Replacement - Upto Rs 2 Lakh AC Condenser + Water Cooler + Blower Replacement - Rs 1.5 Lakh AC Radiator Grill - Rs 70000 Work like Dent Removal with Minor Scratch Repair Work with Paint -Rs 18000- 20000 Windshield Replacement - Rs 35000- 50000 Suspension Overhaul (Retro Kit of Suspension including Lower Arm, Bushes along with Stabilizer Link Rod) -Rs 2 Lakh Transmission System Failure - replacement (extreme rare cases) - Rs 7 Lakh - 10 Lakh
What car will you choose: 2018 Maruti Suzuki Ertiga or Mahindra Marazzo? Which one is the real winner?
I have been an user of Ertiga VDI for 5 years and 1 lakh kms, so I can give my feedback about the car. Ertiga is a comfortable car, with nice seats and good all-round view. The DDIS engine performs reasonably well if serviced at regular intervals. I got EGR valve cleaning and Intercooler cleaning at 50,000 kms. This helps in maintaining the mileage, which is around 20 kmpl with AC on highway. Clutch plate and steering rack was replaced once at 40,000 kms. In the 5 years of my ownership, the average maintenance cost per kilometer was around Rs.2/- . The engine is trouble-free and it did not let me down on highway ever. However, the engine looses steam if you drive uphill with 5 passengers and luggage. The Marazzo looks good on paper as of now. However, it would be too early to comment on the vehicles performance till it hits the roads.
Who has installed a cold air intake system on their vehicle? Was it worth it?
Question: “Who has installed a cold air intake system on their vehicle? Was it worth it?” I have owned, worked on , and built high performance engines since the 1960’s. Again, based upon real world experience building engines, I will have to disagree with most of the answers on this question. A cold air intake system consists of replacement plumbing for a car or truck that relocates the snorkel for the intake air to a position away from hot engine parts and usually replaces the stock intake filter with an after-market low restriction filter. Cold air intake systems look something like this. They are generally useless. They can sometimes cause problems. Let me explain. In over fifty years of working on and building engines I have NEVER encountered an engine who's performance was limited by an inadequate supply of intake air. NEVER. The stock air cleaner that comes with your car is more than adequate to supply all of the air that engine needs. Think of it, if a simple, easily built, extremely inexpensive change in the air intake plumbing of a car would increase its power, the manufacturer, who has access to far better engineers than those working for an accessory company that builds little more than plumbing parts, would already have put that part on their vehicles! Since the 1990’s almost all cars have located the air intake for the throttle body far forward in the engine compartment where it draws in air from a snorkel at the front of the engine compartment next to the radiator. That is, your car probably already has a “cold air intake system”. Replacing that with a different cold air intake system from an after-market supplier will make no difference. Here, for example, is the stock air intake on a GM truck. The air intake is that big box on the left. It draws through a snorkel in front of and alongside the radiator. And this is an after-market cold air intake system. Where does it draw its air from? From the left side of the radiator, but less optimally from behind it. Moreover, the after-market system does not have GM’s very useful air cleaner service indicator that visually indicates when the air cleaner needs servicing. And it replaces a good air filter with one known to cause problems. (More on this later.) But even if the claimed increased flow capacity of after-market cold air intake systems could increase the performance of an engine (They can’t.), they would only have that effect at wide open throttle. Below that, below full open throttle at 5,000 or 6,000 rpm’s, they could not have any benefit at all because the engine’s demand for air is limited by the throttle plate and is far below the flow capacity of the stock air cleaner or its plumbing system. Think of it. How often do you drive your car at wide open throttle other than at a track day event? If you do: 1) You own a car that is seriously underpowered, or 2) you are an idiot. The ONLY instance in which an after-market filter or cold air intake system could POSSIBLY be of any benefit is if you have added a supercharger or a turbo charger and added an intercooler and/or have increased the flow velocities through your engine by fitting a larger throttle body (or carburetor if you have an older engine), changed the intake manifold, increased the size of the intake valves, changed the camshaft, replaced the stock exhaust manifolds with tuned headers, replaced the catalysts with high performance high volume catalysts, increased the diameter of the exhaust plumbing to 3-inches ID or better, and replaced the mufflers with low restriction 3-inch inlet mufflers or better, and then had your car professionally tuned on a dynamometer. THEN, after spending AT LEAST $10K on these mods, you MIGHT need a less restrictive intake air system. I have done all that to engines a lot of times. I have sometimes opted for an after-market air intake system. But I do not think I have ever done so primarily because the engine was intake air limited. Rather, I did so because it allowed me to physically relocate the intake air plumbing to accommodate turbos or intercoolers. After-market cold air intake systems are successfully marketed to people (always young men) who have an interest in cars but no real engineering knowledge and minimal mechanical experience or skill. The demographic for these things are the same guys who can be sold Super Spark Plugs or Wonder Additives and have the mistaken belief that a person with no skill or knowledge can seriously increase the horsepower of his car by bolting on a $200 part. NO. Car engines don’t work that way. However, these systems both look cool and are different and take no skill to bolt on. They thus give the buyer the excuse to brag to his buddies about how much better his car performs. Moreover, although these systems DO NOT and CANNOT improve performance (unless thousands of dollars have also been spent on real engine mods) the marketers of these things can always rely on the buyer’s desire to justify his bad decision. It is really hard for someone who has bought and installed a $200 piece of plumbing to honestly admit, “This piece of pipe doesn’t do anything. Boy was I stupid.” No. He cannot do that. He will IMAGINE that he subjectively “feels” more performance. Does he have the car put on a dyno for an objective comparison? No. Does he have any way to prove that the performance has improved? No. He wants to IMAGINE that it has. Imagining and claiming that the thing works is necessary to make him feel less of a shmuck. Someone tells you a cold air intake system improved the performance of his car? Ask him to show you the comparative dyno tests. That is how I evaluate and tune my cars. That is the only way to objectively determine if a change to an engine was worth the cost and effort. Aside from the “cool” look (desirable to the sort of person who would put an aero kit on a Honda Civic) in almost all situations after-market cold air intake systems make no difference. And, in the words of Star Trek’s Mr. Spock, “A difference that makes no difference IS NO DIFFERENCE.” But, besides being a total waste of money, after-market cold air intake systems can cause serious problems. These systems often use a reusable air filter. To make these filters work it is necessary to coat them with oil. It is extremely common for the purchasers of these systems to spray these filters with too much oil. More is better, right? Anyway, it is difficult to determine when you have applied too little (which means the filter will not work and you will damage your engine), and when you have applied enough, and when you have applied too much. What happens if the buyer of a reusable air filter errs an the side of caution and applies too much oil? That oil will then COAT AND DAMAGE the Mass Airflow Sensor seriously degrading the performance of the car. A properly operating Mass Airflow Sensor is required to control the air/fuel ratio. This sensor is expensive. It can often be cleaned. But if damaged by oil replacement is often necessary. I have seen a number cars that have had this problem. Often the owner threw a bunch of parts at the car trying to solve the performance problem before I showed him that his problems were being caused by the after-market air filter he installed and the excess oil from it that coated the Mass Airflow Sensor. If you want to buy an after-market cold air intake system because you think it looks cool. Go ahead. Good enough reason. But if you claim it increased the performance of your car, I will laugh at you.
What is the annual maintenance cost of a Jaguar XJL ?
Hi, I know that for Audi, Mercedes-Benz and BMW, Maintenance cost is nearly the same but no idea about Jaguar Below are the Cost of Maintaining a Luxury Car - estimated costs for approximation only - Indicative for Audi A3, Q3, A4, BMW 1 Series, X1, 3 Series, GT, Mercedes Benz A Class, B Class, CLA, GLA, C Class in India :- Scheduled Service Bill: On an average for Scheduled Service Bill would be approx Rs 25K - 30K for change of Oil Filter and Fluids. Audi, BMW, Benz Service/Repair/Part————-Part Cost/Service Cost Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement: Rs 10K Air Filter: Rs 4500 Cabin AC Micro Filter: Rs 4000 Pollen Filter: Rs 1200 - 1500 AC Disinfectant: Rs 3000 Fuel Filter: Rs 6000 - 8000Spark Plug Set Replacement (Applicable in TFSI /Petrol Car Range): Rs 10K Body Wash, Basic Clean & Engine Degrease: Rs 3000 Body Wax Polish Detailed: Rs 7000 - 8000 Car Interior Dry Clean with Germ Clean: Rs 8000 - 10000 Wheel Alignment & Balancing: Rs 6000 - 7000 Brake Pads Replacement (Pair): Rs 30K - 32K Brake Disc Replacement (Pair): Rs 30K - 35K Power Foldable & Heated Side ORVM Replacement: Rs 40K Battery Replacement: Rs 25K - 35K Front Shock Absorber Pair Assembly(Both Left & Right): Rs 60K - 70K Headlight Assembly (Xenon Plus): Rs 1.5 Lakh - 2.5 Lakh Alloy Wheel Set (16 Inch - 17 Inch) - Set of 4 Alloys: Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Injectors Replacement: Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Assembly (Pump + Injectors + Fuel Unit + Distributor): Rs 3 - 4 Lakh Bumper Replacement: Rs 60K - 70K Bonnet Replacement: Rs 1 Lakh Intercooler Replacement: Rs 40K - 50K AC Compressor Assembly Replacement: Upto Rs 2 Lakh AC Condenser + Radiator Replacement: Rs 1 - 1.25 Lakh Dent Removal with Minor Scratch Repair Work with Paint:Rs 18K - 20K Windshield Replacement: Rs 35K - 50K Suspension Overhaul: Rs 2 Lakh Transmission System replacement: Rs 7 Lakh - 10 Lakh IT is always wise to take extended warranty till 5 years this cover a lot of expenses related to Mechanical Fault. I think Jaguar would also have same kind of maintenance cost, because it is world of competition. I hope you got your answer Keep driving
What is the difference between a petrol car and a diesel car in terms of cost & service?
Diesel cars have higher maintenance cost as compared to petrol engine cars. I drive Ertiga VDI, which has completed 90,000 kms in 4.5 years, including many long distance trips. I would list out my experience, point-wise: Every odd thousand kms. (10000, 30000, 50000) you have to go for engine oil and oil filter replacement. Cost - Approx Rs.7000/- Every even thousand kms. (20000, 40000, 60000) you have to go for engine oil, oil filter, diesel filter, gear oil, front brake pad and engine coolant replacement. Cost - Approx. Rs.18,000/- Clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing replacement at 45,000 - 50,000 kms approx. Cost - Rs. 10,000/- Full AC service after 2 years, including cleaning of cooling coil, etc. Cost - Approx. Rs.6000/-. (I got this job done outside, which was much cheaper and better. Service centre might suggest you to replace everything !! ) Exhaust gas regulator (EGR) valve cleaning after every 40,000 kms will cost you approx. Rs.6000/- This should not be ignored as it significantly affects the cars performance and mileage. Also, the intercooler should be cleaned alongwith and ckecked for engine oil clogging. If there is engine oil in intercooler, it indicates leakage of turbocharger oil seal. I got my steering rack replaced at 65,000 kms as it had become loose. Cost - Rs.10,000/- Some expenses in petrol engine cars will be common. However, you would save on costs of items like diesel filter, EGR cleaning, intercooler cleaning. If your daily commute is more than 50 kms, the I would suggest you should go for a diesel vehicle.
What brand of car, assuming it is well maintained, will last the longest?
If you’re just focusing on the badge placed on the car, Toyota/Lexus would be the brand that has the most anecdotal and empirical evidence showing the brand to lead all others in reliability. On the other hand, I suggest comparing specific models (and in some cases trim levels where engine/transmissions can be different) against other specific models when reliability and longevity is important above all else. Toyota has a long reputation for reliability, and I can give an example of my own. I owned a 1985 Corolla GTS (also known as the “AE86”) back in the late 90's, and even though it had over 100k miles on the odometer when I bought it, the only mechanical work done was a timing belt replacement just before I bought it. When I sold the car about 4 years later there were 167k miles on the original clutch (admittedly getting worn, but still useable) and that little thing never let me down. How does Toyota do it? They don't rush into adopting all the latest tech right away, and they engineer their cars with reliability (instead of quick profits) in mind from the very start. A good example is the latest trend of turbocharging small 4cyl engines as a way to maintain the performance that people expect from a larger engine while (theoretically) giving the fuel economy of a small engine. It sounds good on paper, but forced induction adds more complexity under the hood (turbo unit, different intake and oil intercooler and associated plumbing) as well as puts the engine itself under more stress and heat. Toyota has done turbos in the past, but for their mainstream models they have stuck to naturally aspirated engines. Even Honda has finally caved in, and many of their mainstream Civic and Accord models are now turbocharged, and only time will tell how that affects reliability. Toyota recently released a newly redesigned version of their biggest seller (North America) Camry with a more powerful, yet still efficient, naturally aspirated 4cyl engine, and maintained a naturally aspirated V6 for those wanting more performance. Honda on the other hand forces you into a 4cyl turbo in its top models. Also, Toyota will be releasing a new version of it's top seller worldwide (Corolla/Auris) this summer with only naturally aspirated engines. Something notable about the new 2.0l 4cyl in the new Corolla is they added both port injection (low rpms) and also the latest direct injection (high rpms) to create an engine that should offer good performance and fuel economy while maintaining longevity. Many carmakers jumped right into the “direct injection" method a few years back when increased onboard computer processing speed made it possible, now people are having to get expensive intake valve cleanings done around 40-50k miles. Why is that? Well with direct injection only, no unburnt fuel (Which contains cleaning additives) ever touches the intake valves, but when the burnt fuel/oil exits the combustion chamber it builds up carbon deposits on the valves..deposits that can't be cleaned by adding a bottle of fuel cleaner at your next fillup. Toyota took the logical (but more expensive) route of adding both high tech computer controlled direct injection along with old school port injection. Problem solved, Toyota once again maintains its reliability reputation. The new engine also uses a timing chain instead of a belt, and that means the engine should be capable of well over 100k (properly maintained) without ever requiring a technician to replace internal parts. In addition to those things (common causes of engine trouble) the new engine also has an electric motor driven water pump which is likely to last far longer than a pump operated by belt and pulley. Sure some of this costs more to develop and build, and they could have done things the easier and cheaper way, but it's called sacrificing short term profits for long term company health and reputation, something many Japanese companies do very well. Toyota didn't become the #1 car maker in the world simply because they assemble more cars than all the others.. Oh, and if you think I'm simply a Toyota fan or work for the company, that Corolla back in the 90's was my one and only Toyota, but I have family and friends that are very loyal to the brand. My current daily driver comes from VW, (less than stellar reliability record) and a performance model at that. (GTI) If Toyota ever decides to make another Corolla GTS using their new hatchback body style, I will definitely consider such a thing to eventually replace my GTI, and that's even if they don't turbocharge the engine. The 2.5l out of the Camry that makes just over 200hp would do quite nicely..
Which car brand has the highest and lowest maintenance cost among Audi, Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Jaguar in India?
I know that for Audi, Mercedes-Benz and BMW, Maintenance cost is nearly the same but no idea about Jaguar Below are the Cost of Maintaining a Luxury Car - estimated costs for approximation only - Indicative for Audi A3, Q3, A4, BMW 1 Series, X1, 3 Series, GT, Mercedes Benz A Class, B Class, CLA, GLA, C Class in India :- Scheduled Service Bill,: On an average for Scheduled Service Bill would be approx Rs 25K - 30K for change of Oil Filter and Fluids. Audi, BMW, Benz Service/Repair/Part————-Part Cost/Service Cost Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement: Rs 10K Air Filter: Rs 4500 Cabin AC Micro Filter: Rs 4000 Pollen Filter: Rs 1200 - 1500 AC Disinfectant: Rs 3000 Fuel Filter: Rs 6000 - 8000 Spark Plug Set Replacement (Applicable in TFSI /Petrol Car Range): Rs 10K Body Wash, Basic Clean & Engine Degrease: Rs 3000 Body Wax Polish Detailed: Rs 7000 - 8000 Car Interior Dry Clean with Germ Clean: Rs 8000 - 10000 Wheel Alignment & Balancing: Rs 6000 - 7000 Brake Pads Replacement (Pair): Rs 30K - 32K Brake Disc Replacement (Pair): Rs 30K - 35K Power Foldable & Heated Side ORVM Replacement: Rs 40K Battery Replacement: Rs 25K - 35K Front Shock Absorber Pair Assembly(Both Left & Right): Rs 60K - 70K Headlight Assembly (Xenon Plus): Rs 1.5 Lakh - 2.5 Lakh Alloy Wheel Set (16 Inch - 17 Inch) - Set of 4 Alloys: Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Injectors Replacement: Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Assembly (Pump + Injectors + Fuel Unit + Distributor): Rs 3 - 4 Lakh Bumper Replacement: Rs 60K - 70K Bonnet Replacement: Rs 1 Lakh Intercooler Replacement: Rs 40K - 50K AC Compressor Assembly Replacement: Upto Rs 2 Lakh AC Condenser + Radiator Replacement: Rs 1 - 1.25 Lakh Dent Removal with Minor Scratch Repair Work with Paint:Rs 18K - 20K Windshield Replacement: Rs 35K - 50K Suspension Overhaul: Rs 2 Lakh Transmission System replacement: Rs 7 Lakh - 10 Lakh IT is always wise to take extended warranty till 5 years this cover a lot of expenses related to Mechanical Fault. I think Jaguar would also have same kind of maintenance cost, because it is world of competition. I hope you got your answer Keep driving
Why do most mechanics say fixing a timing belt on an older car isn’t worth it?
I have an 02 Jetta TDI it has nearly 400k on the odometer. I did mine at home, and while I was at it had to clean out the intake manifold that was clogged from 350k worth of deisel soot going thru the EGR system no diesel engine should ever be fitted with, cleaned the gunk from the same out of the intake ports plus changed the turbo that had a seized VNT system on it and a bad oil seal (at least a pint and a half of oil fell out of the intercooler when I opened up the intake.) Being that all this needed to be done at once and it is so high mileage, I started by pulling engine out. The labor alone would've cost more the than the thousand dollars I paid for the car. The parts ran me about 500 bucks and now it runs like a top and is averaging 45mpg and gets a good solid 8psi intake charge boost under moderate acceleration and tops out at 14.5psi under full load at a decent engine speed. TLDR: the labor involved, the parts usually needed (especially with most engines being interference engines) if the belt failed means you might as well either: A - do it yourself (I have loads of time, I suffered a major iatrogenic neurotoxic encephalopathy) or B - pay some clown that'll probably half ass rebuilding the heads and cylinders, fixing the smashed pistons and cleaning up the engine so it can go on to a short life of extremely high oil consumption before it goes kaput again or C - get a rebuilt engine or a used one with warranty, swap it yourself if you got the tools or pay the clown that'll probably rip you off anyway, keep your core and pay you nothing for it (the failed engine) and then rebuild it and sell it back out for a really generous profit (congrats you paid his rent/mortgage TWICE NOW!)
What is the maintenance cost for a Mercedes Benz in India?
Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement - Rs 10000 Air Filter - Rs 4500 Cabin AC Micro Filter - Rs 4000 Pollen Filter- Rs 1200 - 1500 Gear Transmission Oil - Rs 7000 Power Steering Oil - Rs 3000 AC Disinfectant - Rs 3000 AC Compressor Oil - Rs 8500 Coolant - Rs 6000 Fuel Filter - Rs 6000 - 8000 Spark Plug Set Replacement (Applicable in TFSI / Petrol Car Range) - Rs 10000 Body Wash, Basic Clean & Engine Degrease- Rs 3000 Body Wax Polish Detailed -Rs 7000 - 8000 Car Interior Dry Clean with Germ Clean -Rs 8000 - 10000 Wheel Alignment & Balancing - Rs 6000 - 7000 Brake Pads Replacement (Pair) - Rs 30000- 32000 Brake Disc Replacement (Pair) - Rs 30000- 35000 Battery Replacement - Rs 18000- 20000 Power Foldable & Heated Side ORVM Replacement - Rs 40000- 50000 for each side Battery Replacement - Rs 25000- 35000 Front Shock Absorber Pair Assembly (Both Left & Right) - Rs 60000- 70000 Headlight Assembly (Xenon Plus) - Each Side - Rs 1.5 Lakh Rear Tail Light - Each side - Rs 30000- 35000 Alloy Wheel Set (16 Inch - 17 Inch) - Set of 4 Alloys - Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Injectors Replacement - Rs 1.2 - 1.5 Lakh Fuel Assembly (Pump + Injectors + Fuel Unit + Distributor) - Rs 3 - 4 Lakh Parking Sensor - Rs 10000 Bumper Replacement (Paint cost additional) - Rs 60000- 90000 Bonnet Replacement (Paint cost additional) - Rs 1 - 1.5 Lakh DRL - Daytime Running Light Each Side - Rs 30000- 40000 Intercooler Replacement -Rs 50000- 60000 AC Compressor Assembly Replacement - Upto Rs 2 Lakh AC Condenser + Water Cooler + Blower Replacement - Rs 1.5 Lakh AC Radiator Grill - Rs 70000 Work like Dent Removal with Minor Scratch Repair Work with Paint -Rs 18000- 20000 Windshield Replacement - Rs 35000- 50000 Suspension Overhaul (Retro Kit of Suspension including Lower Arm, Bushes along with Stabilizer Link Rod) -Rs 2 Lakh Transmission System Failure - replacement (extreme rare cases) - Rs 7 Lakh - 10 Lakh
Is a diesel engine car costlier than petrol engine cars because diesel is cheaper than petrol?
From an engineering view, Diesel engines are more expensive than petrol engines which deliver the same amount of power. While most petrol engines are naturally aspirated, most diesels require a turbocharger with intake air intercooler. Their fuel injection is more complex, they even need (glow)plugs to run. If you are looking at the most advanced Diesels, they have a very expensive technology to clean the exhaust fumes. Besides this, Diesel engines are heavier, which means the car may need a stronger suspension and stronger brakes. Most Diesel vehicles have shorter service intervals than petrol cars. Also seen from an engineering view, Diesel fuel costs about the same as petrol, although it contains more energy. The reason why diesel fuel is cheaper in many markets, is not economy based but tax based, the taxes on Diesel simply are lower than on petrol in many markets. The reason for this is support for commercial transport, because all trucks run on Diesel. In Germany truck operators pay taxes on their trucks which are determined by weight of the vehicle. The operators of Diesel passenger cars pay taxes based on the engine type and the engine displacement. Just recently the government started to charge taxes according to the carbon dioxide rating of the car. So in most cases Diesel cars are more expensive in car tax and less expensive in fuel tax, besides that they burn less fuel than petrol cars. So if thinking about buying a Diesel car, you have to take into account: Price of the car (high), maintenance cost (high), car tax (high), fuel consumption (low) and fuel tax (low). Usually a diesel car only pays out for people who drive a lot.
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