intake manifold error
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intake manifold error Post Review
No more CEL - Fixed my TDI intake manifold flap motor (P2015 error) #Volkswagen #VW #golf #cartweet #PKW #cars #Pas… https://t.co/tqKGoPic21
Took the Coupe out for a test drive this morning and the check engine light came on again. Sure enough, it's the mass airflow sensor again. I swapped the air filter yesterday so it seems every time I touch the intake manifold it throws up an error, suggesting a cranky connection. https://t.co/N0jDVVxY2V
#embarrassing @MercedesBenz #moments . Why make cheap parts? Plastic intake manifold throttle. #notproud Error message P2004 https://t.co/EX95K0qk6m
Howdy folks, just checked my ecu error codes and got 41. Seems to be my IAT sensor, found it mounted to the intake manifold. Took a...
Fel-Pro MS93688 Intake Manifold Set ERROR
@burdog41 That's what I did. I switched the coil pack, wire & plug from the #1 to the #3 cylinder, cleared the codes & according to the error code, cylinder #1 is still the cylinder misfiring. Some jackwagon thought it'd be funny to put the injectors under the intake manifold. Phuck that.
Intake Manifold Pressure Vs Atmospheric Pressure Error?: Hi All, I have recently had my engine... http://t.co/fIr2Ykk1Vw #Toyota #club
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BangaStang Ford Mustang S197 Intake Manifold Cover error
Any mechanics following me?? Need some advice on the intake manifold runner. Getting 2 error codes. 1 saying stuck open, the other saying >
intake manifold error Q&A Review
My RSX 2004 has P1078 error code, I've replaced the whole intake manifold assembly but the error code is still on. What's wrong with it?
Did you reset it? Most OBD diagnostic systems will keep displaying a code and check engine light even after the problem has been resolved. This is so that intermittent problems can be caught and fixed. Otherwise you might see a problem and if it cleared itself then when you brought it to the mechanic all he could do is shake his head and say, I don't see anything. Once you have resolved the problem, there are two solutions to removing the check engine light and trouble code. One is simply to keep driving. If a problem goes away the engine computer counts starts and if there is no longer the problem ocurring in the last (50?) starts it will remove the code and light. The other thing is to use a ODB diagnostic reader and request that the light be reset and the code erased from memory without having to wait for 50 more starts.
What are some things to replace when a car hesitates at low rpms?
This is a helpful article that may address some of the problems that you are experiencing: Problem Engine Hesitation The underlying issue that is causing your engine to hesitate is probably an air/fuel mixture that is too lean. When the accelerator is pushed down and the engine begins to suck in more air, in order to keep the air/fuel ratio fairly constant an additional charge of fuel is required. If your car is old enough that it is carburated, it is possible that something is going wrong with the accelerator pump in the carb, which sprays extra fuel into the intake manifold when the throttle body butterflies suddenly open (for instance under hard acceleration from low rpm). If your car is controlled by EFI (that's electronic fuel injection in case anyone is wondering), it is possible that the error is simply a misreading sensor. Airflow based EFI are very sensitive to vacuum leaks, even downstream of the sensor. If your air to fuel mixture is not being properly enriched (i.e. It is going lean), I would start by diagnosing for vacuum leak and problems with the sensors. If the issue is something more serious, it is possible that the ignition system is weak and is causing misfires. Generally this will result in the engine computer throwing a code which you can check with an OBD II reader if your car was made within the last 20 years. The article indicates several causes of hesitation or stumbling: * Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this). * Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor * Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor * Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor * Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump) * Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve) * Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol) * Dirty or worn spark plugs * Bad plug wires * Weak ignition coil * Wet plug wires In any case I would start by checking the engine computer to see if any lean codes or misfires were reported, if sensors are not reporting the way that they should be, etc. Then I would look for vacuum leaks, measuere the fuel pressure and volume, and probably remove and inspect the spark plugs. There are many other checks that you can do with a diagnostic tool, so read up on that if you are prepared to tackle this problem yourself. Good luck!
What is the biggest scam an auto mechanic ever tried on you?
At the Chevy dealer, I went in for a check engine light. Him: “You have a leaky intake manifold. It’ll be about $400 for that.” Me: “But the truck has less than 50,000 miles. Aren’t you required to fix emissions related issues by law?” Him: “Oh yeah.” Him: “We also need to go through the computer. That will be about $300.” Me: “Why? You read out the error codes and cleared them, right? You gonna look for dust bunnies in there?” I paid nothing.
How do Mercedes, Porsche and BMW owners gather up the gall to complain on Quora about the cost of an oil change?
I'll give you a few examples. A guy I used to know had a BMW 535i (E34, V8 engine). At some point, the fuel consumption increased from an average of 15 liters per 100 km to about 26 liters, because one of the sensors for the ECU was delivering faulty signals. It took BMW a while to figure this out, because the sensor was of the sneaky sort: broken enough for bad signals, but not broken enough to show up as faulty in the ECU's error log. This story went on for two or three weeks, and he kept swearing about it on IRC. There was another guy, a complete tosspot who kept eating himself up with social envy. At some point Mr. Tosspot produced the following gem: "You drive a V8 and bitch about the fuel consumption?" (It must be hard driving a Skoda and hating everybody with a less boring car.) The point of this? Even as a V8 owner, it is perfectly acceptable to complain if the fuel consumption goes up by two thirds due to a defect. There is nothing wrong with this. Owning an expensive car does not mean the owners like being shafted with outrageous bills. The same goes for some of the prices official dealerships are charging for trivial things. I know the feeling from my Alfa Romeo. After asking once the official rate for an oil change at an official Alfa dealership, I decided to NEVER go there. 30 euros per liter of oil, with 6,5 liters in the sump? Very funny, I'm not forking out 270 euros for a bloody oil change if I get the same for 200 euros less, with the same quality oil. Does this make me cheap? No, I simply don't like being ripped off. Spark plugs, same thing. They last 100.000 km, that's ok, and almost two hours are set for replacing them (the intake manifold has to be removed for this). What is not ok is the price: 36 euros plus tax for every single of six spark plugs. The very same plugs cost 19 euros including tax from an aftermarket parts store. In other words, these plugs last five times as long as normal ones, and cost (at the dealership) ten times more. That's another rip-off right there. The air flow meter for my engines costs 280 euros at an Alfa dealership. One for an Opel Vectra B 2.6 V6 with the same Bosch number (meaning it's the same part) clocks in at 125 euros. My mother drives BMWs, and she has a strange habit. Every time one of her cars goes in for service, she fills the windscreen wiper fluid tank to the brim. Every time she finds two units of cleaner fluid on the bill, and every time lets them print out a corrected one - instead of telling them right from the start "don't bother, the wiper fluid tank is full". It's something around 20 euros, but by your logic she should just pay because she's driving a BMW and it's all right to charge for nothing? Your question should be rephrased. How do Mercedes, BMW and Porsche dealerships gather up the gall to charge three to five times more for oil changes and other trivial stuff?
I repaired a P2070, but the error said still pending. What should I do?
It's important to understand the difference between a repair and a parts replacement. The jury is still out on whether or not the root issue is repaired or not. If you cleared codes, and then the pending fault reappeared, then it's not repaired. If you didn't clear anything yet , it simply means the PCM is still waiting for test results in order to be satisfied. The correct driving conditions for this particular code need to be met before the test will run. Before I mention “what you should do” , I'll tell you what you should know. A common misconception is that code X means part Y is bad. One should not alter the code description nor make assumptions. In this particular case , P2070 states that the intake manifold tuning valve was detected as “ stuck open” when it was commanded closed. There is no mention of what part or parts are faulty, just a signal of a valve in the open position. Now on to what you should do. First , understand what the system in question is designed to do. In the case of an intake manifold tuning valve, it will vary it's position depending on engine RPM. It's a “trick” used by automotive engineers to get the best of both worlds from an intake manifold, good low RPM torque without completely sacrificing power at higher RPM. It needs to be “open” or “closed” at certain times to accomplish this magic. Some PCM(Powertrain Control Module) controlled devices such as this utilize a position sensor to inform the PCM whether or not it's instructions were followed. When the PCM receives a signal regarding an improper position, it may be due to a problem in the position sensor circuit , or a problem with controlling the device. And either of these scenarios might involve a wiring problem, and not any parts. When diagnosing this code it is important to verify that the intake manifold tuning valve or any of it's associated parts are free to move , and has everything it NEEDS to move. In the cases where a vacuum actuator is involved, a good vaccum source is mandatory. For electrical actuators, a bad voltage drop due to poor terminal tension may result in no movement of the actuator. Always remember that a fault code identifies a failed test, but does not identify the root cause of that failed test.
What does this mean? My check engine light has been on for over a week reading intake manifold gasket for my 2008 Hyundai Elantra. No leaks no overheating but Was misfiring when cold only . I put anti freeze in it a day ago now light is off.
I suspect that you may have gotten some bad gasoline and the computer noticed that one of your cylinders was acting up. The manifold intake error was probably from poor quality fuel. But l would put a wrench on the intake manifold bolts and make sure they are tight. When a computer senses that a sensor is now working properly, it will eventually turn the light off. I think the antifreeze lose is not related to the service light coming on if you only lost a small amount, it is probably just seepage at the hose connections, but if you continue to have to add coolant like more than 200 ml a week you can a small leak and you can ether try a radiator sealant or pressurize the system and look for the leak. You can buy a glow in the dark additive and you put it in the coolant reservoir and drive it for a couple days and then using a black light locate the leak by inspecting it in the dark with a black light. If you suspect that the intake manifold has coolant jacket's in it a intake manifold gasket could be causing the coolant loss and the misfire issues, so find out if the intake actually has coolant passing through it. Some vehicles do and some don't.
Why would a P2009 error code definitely go away without repair? It often showed up during spring and summer the last two years.
You likely have an intermittent electrical issue causing this code. For repairs: Repair or replace wiring harness. Unclogging or ,repairing, the intake manifold runner bank 1. Fixing, the poor electrical connection. Replacement of the intake manifold runner control solenoid.
Do throttle body spacers increase engine horsepower?
Rarely does a bolt-on throttle body (TB) spacer have much, if any, effect on torque or horsepower of a modern fuel injected gasoline engine. That’s the bad news. The best news is that it rarely hurts power. NASCAR and other racing engines have used carburetor (now TB) spacers on the top of the intake manifold to increase the “plenum volume” and alter the wave tuning of the intake system either to increase torque/power at a certain engine speed (rpm) or throughout the rpm range used on a given track. The goal is to get more air into the engine. The race manifold would be designed to achieve best tuning at one small rpm range and a spacer might be used to alter that range slightly. The NASCAR spacer ,might, give 2% more peak power, about 14 hp on a 700 hp engine in the 8000+ rpm range. Modern production engines have intake manifolds and associated systems designed to produce the most torque (and therefore horsepower) across the rpm range used during normal part-throttle (pedal ,NOT, to the metal) driving. They also are able to produce the advertised maximum horsepower and torque numbers when operated at Wide Open Throttle (,WOT,). To achieve maximum acceleration the engine needs to be kept near maximum horsepower rpm and not much lower than peak torque rpm. This is achieved by shifting gears at the appropriate rpms. An example might be the 335 hp current V-6 Camaro with an 8-speed automatic transmission. The engine produces maximum WOT torque about 5300 rpm and maximum power about 6900 rpm. During WOT acceleration the automatic trans upshifts at 6950 and the rpm drops to about 5000–5300 depending on the gear. During most folks’ normal part throttle driving the engine revs rarely exceed 4000 rpm and stay between 1500 and 2500 rpm for the vast majority of the time. There is adequate plenum volume for all combinations of part throttle volume, so adding a few %, cannot have a significant effect on either part throttle or WOT power. It is just physics at work. OK, if you got this far, “What about the power claims by the spacer sellers?” A 2% increase on a 335 hp engine at 6900 rpm is about 7 hp. That is well within the measurement error range of a chassis dynamometer even if you control every aspect of multiple runs. The cost to use OEM quality engine only dyno tests on a number of spacers for various engine would far exceed the gross sales of all the spacers on the market. If you regularly WOT your car from a stop to say 80 mph (using only the bottom three gears in the 8-speed) you couldn’t measure the time difference in those 8–9 seconds the spacer might make. My question to the original question would be, “If adding an inch or so to the length of the manifold would result in all of those claimed power, torque and fuel mileage increases, would not the OEM have done that in the original design for virtually no cost?” The answer is, “Yes, of course they would have.” It was that way 50 years ago when I was at the OEM end, and still is. My highly opinionated $.02
When the OBD II has error code P0343 (Camshaft position sensor A circuit high bank 1 or single sensor), is it better to replace just the adapter at the intake manifold or the entire cable that has both ends to remove the code?
What you need to do is actually TROUBLESHOOT the circuit, rather than shooting the parts cannon at it. Get a wiring diagram, check to see if the proper power and ground signals are present at the sensor, and see if proper output signal is present at the sensor. If so, check to see if the same signal is present at the proper pin on the engine computer. If you have power and ground, and no output signal, then you need a new sensor. A broken wire in a harness is a possibility, but less likely than a bad sensor.
Is fixing your own car becoming a lost art due to all the technology in new cars?
No, because technology really has nothing to do with it. The reason that cars are getting harder to work on is all in the design. In fact, the fancy electronics newer cars have usually make them a lot easier to work on. Not quite sure what I’m talking about? Here, I’ll use my project car as an example. This is a 1993 VW Corrado SLC: I got it for basically nothing, because it was acting up pretty badly and the previous owner was in over his head. Something was really wrong with the tune, but it wasn’t a consistent problem. Basic troubleshooting wasn’t helping, and none of the forums had any bright ideas. So I ripped out the factory ECU and wired in one that was a little more hi-tech. Suddenly I had more information than I knew what to do with - here’s a screenshot of what it’ll spit out on my computer: When you’re troubleshooting, having real-time diagnostic info makes all the difference. With about an hour of messing around and some Googling, I figured out: All of the sensors were working Spark was firing fine My crankshaft position sensor was on its way out I didn’t have any vacuum leaks My fuel pressure was all over the place. Through trial and error over the next two weeks, I managed to chase down about 6 different leaks in the fuel system - and that the fuel pump hadn’t been put back in the tank properly and was just floating around, which was why it was acting so temperamental. Sensors and computers are your friends, if you know how to work with them. Meanwhile, doing anything mechanical to the car has been a nightmare. I got the bright idea that I wanted to slap on a turbocharger. So I went to rebuild the engine… and realized that just to get the intake manifold off you need to pull the entire front end off the car: And then it turns out my timing chain guides were wearing out and needed to be replaced to make things run solid. Well, VW designed the chain to last the life of the car, so to do a rebuild you really just have to pull the engine all the way out: And it’s even worse than it seems - since this isn’t a planned maintenance item, VW doesn’t even make replacement gaskets for that timing cover - the factory service manual just says to use RTV gasket-maker. But the cover comes off in two pieces and bolts directly to the oil pan, and to make things even worse you also have to get the rear main seal back on correctly at the same time. Trying to RTV it all in place was one of the most obnoxious repairs I’ve had to do to a car. After all that was done, I decided that I really needed a better differential to put down all the extra power. On lots of cars, doing a diff swap isn’t really that hard of a job. On VW’s 02A transmission, the diff is integral to the rest of the transmission and is literally the last part that comes out. Here’s a picture of it hiding under the output shaft: It’s been an absolute nightmare. This is the real problem with trying to work on modern cars. They’re so reliable now that most people don’t ever have to do major service until the car completely dies. So manufacturers have stopped caring how easy things are to fix, because to them it really doesn’t matter - they’ll happily make something impossible to get to if it makes it work a little better. Like my transmission - putting the diff underneath the output shaft like that makes the whole thing a lot stronger - the car it’s in has 175 ft-lb of torque, but that transmission will take 350 ft-lbs without even flinching. It’s impossible to work on, but that honestly isn’t important. Who’s gonna replace the diff on their front-wheel-drive compact car?
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