intake manifold symptoms
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intake manifold symptoms Post Review
@HumbleMechanic ever seen this issue before? No symptoms, no CEL, seems to be completely random occurrences months apart. Replaced LPFP, fuel filter, coil packs, spark plugs, and intake manifold. Just happened again yesterday. https://t.co/jttycHDBN0
Symptoms of bad or failing intake manifold gaskets: Filed under: Maintenance,Ownership,Parts and Accessories Some symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket include engine misfires, decrease in performance, coolant leaks or the… https://t.co/3pObEUDJ1Q #Cars #Autos #Automotive https://t.co/y1ufcJQyru
Do you know that: Identifying intake manifold gasket leak symptoms is one way to avoid further damage to the engine 🤭 #CarFromJapan https://t.co/TiagUCrYNI https://t.co/9MKGo2XDQN
A leaking intake manifold can severely disrupt a car engine's performance& cause a variety of abnormal engine signs & symptoms @ALIBABAGCFR
The symptoms and codes point to new intake manifold gaskets in my @ThisIsGMC #YukonXL. Just need it fully tested & find enough $ somewhere.
Accident risk – Volvo Group Australia #recalls Volvo V40, S90, V90 Cross Country and XC90 MY2016-2019. The engine valve may leak and may cause the engine intake manifold to melt or deform, which may cause various symptoms top occur. For full details: https://t.co/jGyMlaYaEI
MK7 #GTI owners, if you have yet to replace the intake manifold on your car, just know that you'll have to address it at some point soon. Use this blog post to learn about intake manifold failure symptoms along with how to replace it. https://t.co/q5N6V3Ym4u
@helencairns sorry well as last resort you have it done a leaking intake manifold basket can cause similar symptoms
Symptoms of a Failing Intake Manifold Gasket #Symptoms #FailingIntakeManifoldGasket #IntakeManifoldGasket #IntakeManifold #ManifoldGasket #Intake #Manifold #Gasket https://t.co/R2zgvbnxl0
I added a video to a @YouTube playlist https://t.co/oiavlYAmAt 2002 Ford f150 5.4 triton bad intake manifold symptoms
intake manifold symptoms Q&A Review
Can the brake booster cause the brake pedal to go to the floor? Also when the engine is turned on, a hissing noise comes from the booster especially when the brake pedal is depressed and the engine idles rough?
These are 2 different symptoms of different problems. The booster has no effect on the pedal going to the floor. A pedal will go to the floor completely based on hydraulic and mechanical operations. The primary things that cause this are either a bad master cylinder, where the seals do not hold the correct hydraulic pressure when pressing the pedal, or occasionally air in the brake lines, or leaking brake fluid out of the brake hydraulic system. A third possibility exists, which is that the brake pads are extremely worn, but then you’d have other issues. It is often a combination of some of these. The hiss could be a number of things. Depending on the kind of car, there could be a number of different vacuum related components near that side of the engine bay. The brake booster is one of them, but brake boosters almost never fail these days. It can happen, but its not something common, unless of course, the master cylinder rear seal fails and the booster starts to drink brake fluid, which could cause your pedal to sink as well. EDIT: (Adding Frank May’s excellent point). Also, note, that the failure of a booster usually leads to a rock hard brake pedal, not one that sinks to the floor. Other things that could be a cause of a his and bad idle are a bad manifold vacuum line TO the brake booster. A bad evaporative system solenoid could do that as well as many manufacturers connect them to a vacuum line as a way of bleeding off gasoline fumes back into the intake manifold. Any number of other vacuum connections near the intake manifold could cause this as well, also cause an odd idle. It sounds like there’s a few things actually going on. The most critical of which is the pedal going to the floor. The booster has no affect on that in 99% of cases, so those aren’t often related.
What are the symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket?
Irratic idling and possibly a hissing sound. You can pinpoint using something like wd40 using the extension tube at various parts around the gasket. You will hear a ride in idle speed.
Let's say I drained the motor oil to the right level, but the car still blows white smoke. What should I do now?
White smoke isn’t caused by oil. White smoke generally indicates the presence of coolant in the combustion chambers, due to either a failed head gasket or cracked engine block. On some engines, coolant passes through its own passages in the intake manifold, so a failure of the intake manifold gasket, or a cracked manifold, can trigger the same symptom. All of these are serious and require the attention of a qualified mechanic.
What are the symptoms of a bad/cracked intake manifold on a car?
Depending on what kind of vehicle is you're going to have a vacuum leak and a rough idle or it will use a lot of fuel. Or you will have a coolant leak.
What can I do if my engine (from assembly) starts mixing oil with water and the coolant tank is not holding coolant?
Question: “What can I do if my engine starts mixing oil with water and the coolant tank is not holding coolant?” You have described the classic symptoms of either a head gasket leak or an intake manifold leak. DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE. Doing so could, at best, result in extreme wear. It could also cause hydraulic lock or an ethylene-glycol seize. Both of these are catastrophic. Remove the intake manifold and the cylinder head(s) and their associated gaskets. Inspect them for damage. Inspect the cylinder head(s) and have the surfaces milled flat by a qualified machine shop. When an engine overheats its cylinder head can warp making it impossible to mate with the block. The only way to correct the is to have the cylinder head machined. Buy quality head and manifold gaskets and install them according to the manufacturer’s instructions, taking note of any special instruction referring to manifold galley seals and the area between the intake manifold gasket and those galley seals. Buy NEW cylinder head bolts and carefully torque them in sequence and in stages according to the manufacturer’s specifications. If you have a GM V-6 with a plastic intake manifold try to find a replacement. Some of these engines were notorious for coolant leaks into the cylinder bores at caused by failed intake manifold gaskets and warped manifolds. Thoroughly drain and flush the crankcase. You do not want any coolant mixed with your lubricating oil.
Do naturally aspirated engines have any performance advantages over turbocharged and/or supercharged engines? If so, what are they?
Both turbocharged and supercharged engines can provide more power than a naturally aspirated engine of the same size. Turbochargers use the engine’s exhaust to drive a turbine “air pump” that increase an engine’s intake pressure and thus the engine’s power. Turbocharged engines used to experience something called “turbo-lag” that naturally aspirated engines don’t. Since turbochargers use the actual engine RPMs to create additional boost and thus additional power, the engine needs to be rev-ing to provide additional power. The turbo-lag symptom is/was that the driver would press on the gas pedal and as the engine RPM accelerated the additional boost and power would ramp up. How that sometimes played out in the real world was that as a car came out of a corner, for example, the driver would press on the gas pedal a specific amount and about the time the driver felt he had control of the car’s acceleration, the additional boost horsepower would cause the car to be less controllable. Newer cars with turbochargers have managed to tame this beast to a great extent. ,But naturally aspirated engines are more precise in their control. Superchargers use a direct drive “air pump” that essentially does the same thing as a Turbocharger, it increases the engine’s intake pressure. But since it is direct drive, there is no turbo-lag. In addition, the Supercharger’s boost pressure can be preconfigured for specific kinds of automobile racing (the normal use for superchargers on cars.) Most of the very high performance drag racers use superchargers to achieve their phenomenal horsepower output. They are most common on high RPM engines because they do not restrict exhaust flow. Big trucks often have turbochargers on their diesel engines for the same reasons. But not for speed; instead for torque and load capacity. A turbo utilizes waste engery in the exhaust, and is extremely efficient on trucks, which nearly exclusively run low to mid RPM engines. Turbochargers can turn a questionably powered four or six cylinder engine into a higher performance car. To continue the physics lesson, if the intake manifold pressure is boosted then the cylinder pressures are increased as well. As a result,, these engines usually are stronger than a naturally aspirated engines. I can’t talk about cars, but here’s an airplane engine comparison. My airplane has dual Turbochargers. Aircraft turbochargers can be designed to be “turbo normalizing” — keeping the intake pressure the same as sea level up to the turbo’s “critical altitude,” above which it starts loosing pressure. Or the turbocharger can be boosted above “normal” pressures. “Standard” sea level intake manifold pressure is 29.92 inches of Mercury and right after take-off the pressure starts dropping. My engine is boosted to 35.5 inches of manifold pressure through 25,000 feet. With that turbo-boost my airplane is capable of cruising at 25,000 feet at about 270 MPH. The point is that a naturally aspirated engine can’t put out the same amount of power and as such doesn’t have to be designed to be as strong. But from a performance standpoint my aircraft has much better performance in all regimes than the naturally aspirated version but that engine isn’t designed to take the same internal pressures.
What is the easiest fix you've encountered from a customer’s car having something "wrong"?
It was 1971. My sister’s boyfriend had an MGB GT that wouldn’t start or run. He had it towed to 2 shops who couldn’t find the problem. British cars were not common or popular in the area and few local mechanics were familiar with them. After hearing it crank over, confirming spark, compression and fuel at the carburetors, I did a thorough visual and tactile inspection and a vacuum check. A core-hole plug at the end of the intake manifold was missing! Facing the firewall, it was not obvious. I replaced the plug and the engine started immediately. A 50 cent part, plus knowing how to read the signs and symptoms was all that was needed.
What is your most "you've got to be kidding me" experience at a car mechanic?
Nor am I a professional automobile mechanic. But at the time I did all my own repair and maintenance work on my 1967 VW Bug: my first car. I was doing a tune-up on the street in front of my house early one Saturday afternoon when my neighbor drove up, parked behind me. She said, “I don’t want to bother you, I figure you know something about cars, would you mind taking a look at mine?” She had a 1980s Ford Mustang II that she’d brought to the local Firestone shop to have the water pump replaced. When she picked up the car that Saturday, it wouldn’t idle. Step on the accelerator, and the engine ran OK, but not well, at least below 1500 rpm. The shop service manager had told her the car needed a tune-up for $150. She told him the car ran and idled just fine when she brought it in Friday morning. He insisted it needed a tune-up. Hundred fifty bucks. She told him she’d think about it. He told her she’s making a big mistake, continuing to drive the car in that condition would cause serious damage to the engine, costing even more in future repairs—hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. I had her sit in the driver’s seat, fiddling with the accelerator pedal; I poked around the engine compartment. The symptoms were of a vacuum leak. (So the Service Manager was correct on that count: vacuum leak leads to burnt valves leads to a valve job costing hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars.) I listened intently. After a while I detected a hissing noise. I felt around and discovered an open nipple on the underside of the intake manifold that one could not see looking from atop the engine compartment. I put my finger over it, and the engine idled just fine. Looking from beneath the car, I could see that there had clearly been a hose connected to this nipple. But, where was it? I saw that the master brake cylinder had a vacuum-assist canister attached. I took a closer look at the master cylinder and found a thick-walled vacuum hose connected at one end of the canister. The rest was coiled up and tucked between the master cylinder and the firewall. I uncoiled the hose, reconnected it to the intake manifold nipple and the engine idled and ran just fine. Looking from the front of the car toward the passenger compartment, the master brake cylinder is way to the right on the driver’s side, in back, at the firewall. The water pump is at the far left front of the engine, on the passenger side, about as far from the master cylinder as one could get. Obviously the mechanic had deliberately disconnected the vacuum hose (nothing to do with the water pump replacement) hoping to get an extra $150 of pure profit by taking advantage of this, in his mind, poor mechanically-ignorant woman. She later told me she went back to the Firestone shop on her way to work Monday morning. The same service manager was there. She asked him to come out to the parking lot to observe her properly-idling car. She thanked him profusely for the correct diagnosis of her car. She told him she had a friend do his recommended “tune-up” on the engine over the weekend. The car now runs just fine, as it had before she brought it to Firestone. She, and all of her family and seventeen friends, will no longer be needing the services of that shop ever again in future. The service manger just looked stunned and said nothing. A week later she gave me a T-shirt from the company for which her father worked in Worcester, Massachusetts. It read something like, “Muckinfutz Crane Company Can’t Get It up? Call Muckinfutz!”
What makes engine oil enter the cylinder through an intake manifold?
There are a couple of places that will end up pushing oil into the intake system In a turbocharged car, failure of the turbocharger oil seals will allow to pass into the intake stream (and likely the exhaust stream as well) and will then push an oily mist through the intake. you’ll have oil coated plumbing up to the throttle body and into the intake manifold. On all cars there is this thing called a PCV system, for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Back in the day, the crankcase vent went into the atmosphere, which of course was polluting. It also dripped onto the roads making them slippery. In order to combat this, the PCV was invented. What this does is connect the crankcase vent to the intake system and then the engine burns this oily air instead of letting it out into “the wild”. On most cars the PCV is simple, on turbocharged cars it has to be a bit more complicated with check valves since at time the intake manifold is under pressure and you don’t want that going into the crank case. A malfunctioning PCV system can push more oil into the intake stream than is expected. You really can’t have a bad head gasket or bad valve seals/guides get oil into the intake manifold since those leaks would be “downstream” of the airflow in the engine and it’s not likely to happen. The symptom would be quite similar, in that you’ll see a “light blue” color in your exhaust.
What are the symptoms of a bad intake manifold?
Engine misfires, and decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel economy. One of the most common symptoms of an issue with intake manifold gaskets is ,engine performance issues,. ... Coolant leaks,. ... Engine overheating,.
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