toyota tps sensor
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toyota tps sensor Post Review
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toyota tps sensor Q&A Review
What is the difference between Lexus and BMW?
I worked 2 years as an automotive engineer and since then periodically study how cars have evolved in the 2000’s. I also read up a good amount on how customers feel about new models of cars, especially foreign manufacturers such as Toyota/Lexus and BMW. Lexus and BMW are luxury car brands and thus they serve a particular niche - people who want to buy a car for more than just getting from A to B. Objectively speaking: QUALITY: The overwhelming data from engineering and consumer studies in the last two decades has shown that Lexus is superior to BMW. In fact, far superior in recent years (a recent J.D. Power Study has shown Lexus has 33% less problems per 100 vehicles compared to BMW. If one looks at various consumer reports studies on long-term vehicle reliability, Lexus is almost always Top 3 in reliability (often just switching places with its parent brand, Toyota). Very few car companies can top the ingrained quality-mindset that brought about Japan’s automotive revolution in the 1980’s. In fact Lexus’s parent company, Toyota, essentially ,pioneered ,automotive quality evolution over the last half-century via the Toyota Production System (TPS). Compared to all car companies, BMW is at best just middle of the road and oftentimes below average in reliability. In short, if you want to have a luxurious car AND you don’t want to spend time to take it to the shop, buy a Lexus. LUXURY: The ‘luxuriousness’ of cars depend on your taste. I’ve lived and traveled a good bit in Asia and if you have done so yourself, you can tell that Asian consumers have a different taste towards cars compared to Western Europeans. Because of these cultural differences, the approach to car design is different and is apparent in many Lexus/Acura vs. BMW/Mercedes discussions. The luxuriousness of a Lexus is subtle, and comes in a smooth, conservative design where enhancements in ride comfort, quietness, all-around component quality and usefulness is emphasized. There is more emphasis on rider comfort and less on gadgets and performance. Recently this has changed somewhat for some models to engage a younger crowd, but the emphasis on the above is still seen even in the Lexus IS sports sedans and the RC-series sports car. BMW’s approach to luxury is more of making it a driver’s car. It is often what describes a Western version of luxury. This often comes in the form of adding the latest gadgets to ‘wow’ the consumer, to offer something new, though not necessarily something ‘better’. Aesthetics is the game with BMW, and to a large extent most German luxury car brands. For BMW’s version of luxury, there is emphasis on paint, a powerful engine, high-tech sensors and user interfaces in the cockpit, interior design. BMW’s just ‘look’ good, and that is their appeal. One thing I will have to say that puts me off about BMW, surprisingly, is the lack of ride comfort for passengers (the X-series SUV and BMW 3-series felt less comfortable sitting in than my friend’s Camry). GENERAL: Both brands are luxurious in their own right. Lexus is reliable comfort. Buy a Lexus if you want a luxury car that comes with less trips to the repair shop (actually, the ,least, trips to the shop of any other brand). Buy a Lexus if you’re into a luxurious, comfortable ride and not performance. BMW is shiny-new-thing luxury. Buy a BMW if you want a luxury car that has all the newest things and great exterior and interior design, but knowing some of those things will break relatively soon and you will take it to the repair shop. Buy a BMW if you’re into performance and looking good, but not really into having the most comfortable ride or reliability.
What could cause a high idle in a Toyota Echo besides the carburetor?
I don't think it has a carburetor , at least I can't find a echo with a carb . It must be fuel injected and the idle is set by the ECM , there could be a vacuum leak or the TPS sensor. IAC could be an issue .
As a mechanic what car do you drive and what cars would you never own?
Well, I haven’t worked as a mechanic for years. And, this is dated information, given that at the time I worked on vehicles they were easy to work on and didn’t require computers or expensive machines. Currently, I have two vehicles. One is a Jeep and the other is a Toyota. The Jeep is a Chrysler one, not the older AMC one. It’s been very good but I have heard a lot of bad, especially about the newer versions. The Toyota is the second one I have had. Gas mileage is great, even with an SUV. All the problems have been normal, except for the TPS system, which even has my mechanic hopping mad. I have forgotten how much he paid for the machine to read the TPS sensors, but since the sensors themselves keep going bad, one after another, he’s not making any money. I guess this is good for me, but… Vehicles I will never own again? Pontiac Trans Am, for one. OK, the F-body was great, like the Camaro Z28. Gas hogs, but great cars. That is, until 1984. I was unlucky enough to purchase one that was a hybrid vehicle. Now, here I mean it was part old school and part computerized. It was made late 1984 so part of it was an 85 and part was an 84. Needless to say, they weren’t compatible. Mileage was horrible, even for a sports car. But, the big problem was that you could tell the month by what needed to be repaired. In January, every year, the tailpipe fell off. The next month, it was a headlight mechanism. The next month, the other headlight. It went like this through the whole year and, like clockwork, repeated the next year. This was almost to the day! But, it also had a habit of having engine problems. As in needing to be rebuilt every 30,000 miles. Not once, not twice, but THREE times before I trashed it. So, before it turned over 100K, I had three engines in it. This might not be too bad if the block was reused, but I had replaced the whole thing and still had problems. It even ditched itself one winter, sitting still. I parked it on a hill, the only parking space, and set the brake and parking brake. While I was gone, it started to snow. But, since it was warm, the snow melted. Then it started to get colder and the melted snow started to freeze. The water under my tires turned to ice and the blasted vehicle slide down the hill into the ditch, by itself. To this date, we laugh about it, but my insurance agent threatened to cancel my insurance if anything happened one more time. The only thing we could think of was that it was so light that the expanding ice lifted it and let it slide. After all, the wind would lift it sometimes going into NC, but this was a little hard to believe. The other is a Ford Explorer. I made the mistake of getting a 2002 and it was a total lemon. It’s so bad that one site actually listed it as the worst Ford of all time. Now, I had had Fords since the Pontiac and they were great vehicles. In fact, I ran one into the ground. It could climb a telephone pole. But, this one was one headache after another. Most were small problems that were more of a pain to fix than actually were expensive. But, the big problem was the transmission. How many times can one drop out of a vehicle? OK, before you think it was me, it wasn’t. I didn’t even drive it. The first few times it was under warranty. I should have sold it then, but she liked it and felt safe in the big vehicle. But, after going out of town and it breaking down in the middle of nowhere, that ended. It simply could not be trusted not to drop the transmission after a few thousand miles were on it. It went for a Toyota. Other than some pet issues with the Toyota, I think they’re better than US manufactures can come up with. If you go back, pre-85, the US had some great vehicles. The Olds Cutlass Supreme and the Pontiac Monte Carlo, GTO, 70s TA, the Chevy Camaro Z28s, and so on. The Olds was a family car in the 1980s with most of my family owning one. But, after that, you couldn’t give me one. I hope, one day, to get a 1957 Chevy to show off, but it’s a luxury type thing. Hey, the older vehicles were simple and sharp.
Have you ever worked with a bad car mechanic and what happened?
Although I usually do most work myself I still frequent machine shops for work I cannot do and when I was younger I visited mechanics. The worst mechanics are ones that fix things by throwing parts at it until it works instead of diagnosing the problem from the beginning. The worst experience I ever had was with a car that was experiencing misfires and random crank but no start symptoms. The code read that it was a no spark in multiple cylinders and also a camshaft position sensor. I replaced the camshaft position sensor twice and the problems would leave for a short while then return. So I decided to take the car to the mechanic and be done with it. Well they dinked around and charged a lot to “diagnose” the problem and assured me it was bad spark plugs and wires because there was a little oil on one plug from a minor valve gasket leak. I replaced the gasket and wires myself to save money and it did nothing. Next they said there was a hairline crack in the ignition coil. Now this car had one single coil pack for all 4 cylinders. It was like a $150 part and I was an 18 year old poor college student. Again I took there work for it and bought the part and replaced it myself. Still nothing. So I took it back again. This time they said the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor had exposed wires that were rubbing and grounding on the exhaust manifold. This sounded like it might finally solve my problem. They rewired the whole thing and still nothing after a lot of hours of labor for “diagnosing” and “labor.” So I took the car home and called up my old tech school teacher to see if he had any ideas. He suggested an OEM sensor from the dealer. It was a little more expensive ($30 vs $12) but it did the trick. The car ran beautifully for another 30,000 miles and I then sold it while it still ran well. Since then I have always taken diagnostics seriously. I now have more advance code readers, a multimeter, and I always ohm and check sensors then pin and check outputs. If the technicians had ohmed my ignition coil and spark wires they would have found them to be within specifications and it would have saved younger me a lot of money and time. This next part isn't really your question but as a mechanic I have had a lot of horrible experiences doing work for free for people I hardly know. Needless to say I have gotten better about telling people no haha. In college my roommate had a fuel pump go out and asked if I could to it. He knew I did work on the side for money and so I agreed thinking he would pay me, even if a modest amount seeing as I was acting him money. So on December 2014 with snow on the ground and freezing temperatures I went out into the parking lot and siphoned and dropped his fuel tank on his truck and then replaced the pump and filter and then replaced the siphoned gasoline. The whole thing took a couple of hours but was miserable cold and damp. When I had finished his only offer was offer a dinner at fast food. Next my fiance had a roommate that was having bad car problems. All four of her struts were badly blown on her 1996 Toyota Corolla. She ordered the struts online without realizing how difficult the job of replacing them was. So I offered to help explaining that I would charge the cheap rate of 10$ an hour since she was a friend of sorts. So I spent a couple hours in the shop with a spring compressor and got all the struts replaced and on that car the rear brake lines must be disconnected to remove the rear struts. So I also purchased a small bottle of brake fluid to bleed the brakes and top off the reservoir. After all this the car was driving great and I returned it to her explaining it took about 4 hours of work and a couple bucks for the brake fluid. She promised the money the next week at payday even though the total was only about $44 for 4 struts and a brake bleed. The next week she took her finals early and drove home in her newly fixed car and never paid me. I tried to get her to pay me but she blocked my number and I only ever saw her once again and settled it in my way by cussing her out. Try to be nice to a friend of a friend and lost money in the deal and a lot of time. The last one was trying to help my cash strapped cousin. I was looking for a small 4x4 truck and he had an old 1991 S10 with the 4.3 v6 and 4x4 with new tires. He promised it ran well despite the high miles (190,000) he was asking for $800 which was pretty cheap. I drove it and it drove pretty well when I went around the block. So I paid him and drove it home. That's when the problems all unfolded. It had a blown head gasket and burned coolant badly. It ran horribly when warmed up. There was a transmission leak too. So I bit the bullet and replaced all top end gaskets and seals including head gasket, valve seals, intake manifold gasket, rebuilt the TBI, and found out the transmission leak was from the cooler lines and with some thread sealer the leak stopped lucky me. The truck ran pretty well after that but burned a lot of oil and must of had a hard life (scores on the cylinder walls when I had it open) I also found out there was an O2 sensor code, a misfire in one cylinder, and the TPS sensor was out of spec horriblly. So I replaced the sensors, and found an arcing plug wire so I replaced it too and the cap and rotor. The truck finally ran well but because the head gasket had been blown for so long the Piston had overpressurized the coolant system and so there were leaks in the heater core and heater hoses. I replaced both and was finally able to drive the truck for 40,000 miles just keeping a close eye on the oil level. At least my cousin wasn't lying about the new tires haha they were indeed nice and new. The last thing is the vacuum actuated 4 wheel drive was in shambles but I ended up converting it to a manual cable system for cheap so it is much more reliable now. So I got screwed over by my cousin who avoids me now, but I ended up with a now reliable and cheap truck that I love after all the time I have put into. I painted it, lifted it, dropped a 5.7 L V8 in it from a 90’s Silverado and its an awesome truck for offroading and carrying my motorcycles. It's lightweight and is awesome in the snow. I even redid some of the interior and audio over time and I doubt I'll ever sell it now. Moral of the story learn a thing or two so people don't swindle you or shop around for a quality mechanic. Also I learned to not trust people even sadly friends and family. Be skeptical and check things out for yourself.
What is the wisest car advice you've ever gotten from an auto mechanic?
Do not buy American or French, buy Japanese instead! That’s an advice my dad and a few mechanics gave since I was a teenager, but I was stubborn and always thought that any car as long as it is properly maintained shouldn’t give me any problems, I learned the hard way (I got a Ford Mondeo) how wrong I was. I was anal, about it’s maintenance, I really took care of it, but out of the blue a TPS sensor crapped out, then it was the crankshaft position sensor, then the cable covers on the harness from the fuse box under the bonnet became brittle (I live in a hot and dry area) and became too problematic, the cherry in the cake was when the transmission neutralized itself, I was driving under normal conditions and all of the sudden the transmission decided the car shouldn’t move anymore… then the steering system began to leak. At this point I decided not to invest any more money on that piece of crap and sold it very very cheap, keep in mind, the car was not neglected nor abused in any way. Fast forward, I got a Toyota Camry, it is not as exciting or engaging to drive but I absolutely love it, it’s incredibly reliable, it has never given me any problems in 7 years, I keep maintaining it properly, replacement parts are way cheaper than ford’s, so far I’ve only done its usual maintenance: tyres, suspension bushings, brake pads, oil changes, etc. Incredibly dependable! So from now on… only Japanese cars for me, specially Toyota or Honda.
What causes a Toyota Camry to run loud at startup?
It shouldn't be just a Toyota Camry, but if it's newer than 1996, it will be running loud for about 30 seconds or so, am due to the engine running off an open loop fuel system while your a/f or O2 sensor is warming up. It also does this to help bring the engine to operating temperature faster, usually 180–190*F If it's running louder for some other reason, then that's a a different story… belts, tps, air filter etc.
Why is my car not starting and the engine check light is not displayed? It’s a Toyota, runx 1nz engine.
If you turn your key to the “on” position and your check engine light does not come on…Toyota…GM…Ford or any other make then you have a communication error. The ECU is either dead or it does not get fed. Check any sensor. TPS. ETC. …. ICV…for a 5v signal . If they do not show 5 volts your ECU is fucked .
Where do I find the wiring diagram for my Toyota throttle body?
Maybe you mean the the throttle position Sensor (TPS)? You need to be specific about the engine type. The diagram below is an excerpt from a 1UZFE motor diagram…
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