valve seal honda
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valve seal honda Post Review
Tomorrow I reseal a 1999 Honda CRV top side. Doing valve cover, PCV, distributor seal, distributor cap router button coil plugs wires. General demucking of over a decade of heavy leakage. Likely needs more, starting here. Fortune has smiled upon my new venture. https://t.co/oXiZKpOqc0
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New valve stem seals and all springs and valves reinstalled! Hopefully I’ll have a healthy running Honda by the weekend 🤞🏻 https://t.co/h32Np77pWv
92' Honda civic Lx: I have just replaced my valve stem seal because i was getting some oil in my spark plug and ge... http://bit.ly/d2mR2z
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valve seal honda Q&A Review
How much does it cost for a re-boring cost to Honda Activa?
Reboring any engine is an expensive job since lot of materials and labour is involved. Take quotes from the company show room as well as good local mechanics specialized in Activa. If your vechicle has ceased, then it will be almost change of whole engine itself, otherwise, reboring, new piston ,rings, valves, seals, headgasket, timing cogs and chain, resetting of crank shaft, connecting rod, bearings, packing kit, oil, varitor jobs like clutch bell, clutch linings, belt, the total should come to around 18k by using all OG spares.
What reasons could be causing my 1978 Honda CB400F2 to be making smoke at a very high RPM?
Valve seals shot, valve guides worn, piston rings worn, worn out barrels. You could do a compression check to see if it was the first two or the second two.
Has anyone ever had a problem with a hard to determine oil leak on a 1990 Honda leak? I've checked valve cover gaskets, oil pressure switch, distributor seal and still can't find the leak.
Can you see oil on the ground or even somewhere on the engine but you can’t find the exact place on the engine where it is leaking from or do you assume there is a leak because you need to top up the oil from time to time? If there is no visible leaks but you need to top up the oil there is most likely not a leak but the engine is consuming the oil because of an internal problem like worn rings/pistons, bores/valve guides and seals etc.
Is it fair to expect a car to last at least 200,000 miles?
If taken care of, properly or very well, no worries. I had a 20-year-old Jeep go over 213k miles. Toyotas (including trucks), Volvos, and Hondas are all known to go over 200,000 miles and by many, many drivers. You may have to repair or replace valves, seals, tires, etc, but the mechanics of the car should be fine. Just drive like a mature professional.
I've been doing regular oil changes to my 05 Honda Accord can I switch to synthetic oil?
Yes with the understanding that once you switch, you can't go back. The additive package in synthetic oil is different than conventional oil. All your seals in your car's engine (valve seals, front and rear main seals, o rings) will accept the new additive package and continue to seal but won't if you try to change back
How do I stop a Honda from burning oil?
Either the engine valve seals are leaking oil or the engine piston rings and cylinder walls are worn out. I would replace the PCV valve first. It is a cheap fix, if this is the problem. If the car is old, I would just keep adding oil. Engine work is not cheap. Changing your engine oil at 5,000 miles, helps to prevent some oil burning problems, in the first place. Oil and filter is cheap. Engines and turbo chargers are very expensive to replace.
Can cylinders of an engine take any other besides the traditional round shape?
1979 Honda NR500 The NR500 was Hondas attempt to answer the awesome power output of 2-stroke GP motorcycle engines in the late 1970’s The oval-pistoned V4 four-stroke NR500 was developed, with eight valves and two con-rods per cylinder and an insane rev ceiling of nearly 20,000 rpm An NR500 piston with its two con-rods, 8 valves and dual spark plugs NR500 GP bike Sadly, while it it quite easy to machine circular pistons, piston rings and cylinders - the technology needed to produce oval cylinders, and seal the combustion gases using oval piston rings was very expensive, and not a 100% success. The added complexity in building and maintaining these engines did not pay off - especially when compared to the simplicity and mechanical efficiency of the traditional ported 2-stroke engine The Wankel rotary engine also uses a sort of oval cylinder space - actual a closely coupled double circular area - as these pictures show, and uses a basically triangular rotor in place of a piston to achieve intake (suction), compression, then exhaust cycles - which is apparently still a 4 stroke, (or 4 phase, rather than 4 “stroke” - there is no “up, down, up down” motion) ,system as opposed to a 2-stroke or 4-stroke traditional piston engine - no con-rods, very little reciprocating mass (Thanks to ,Steve Meyer, for providing the animated gif in the comments below this answer) Wankel rotor showing the rotor positions for intake, compression and exhaust cycles. Norton NRV588 cc Wankel engined race bike Norton JPS specials showing off Other odd shapes, such as square could be attempted, but would not provide any benefit, and would bring even more engineering headaches than the Honda oval system - which was adopted as a way to increase the valve area above the piston to increase combustible volume without using a compressor (such as a turbo, or supercharger system - not permitted in motorcycle GP engines)
As a mechanic, what is the most common thing you see car owners doing wrong?
The number one thing I saw when I was a mechanic was people trying to own a vehicle they couldn’t afford to maintain. I worked at a Volvo specialist. A Volvo is not a Mercedes or BMW but it is not a Honda, either. Some of our clients were in the Honda or Toyota tax bracket (I’m not being a jerk, I am too) but wanted to drive something nicer than that. OK, we all aspire to finer things. That’s fine. I get it. The problem is that a Volvo needs more upkeep and more expensive parts and more specialized labor than a Honda or Toyota. The cam synchronizer started leaking oil on your S40’s timing belt. We’ll have to replace the synch, the belt, the seals, etc. Oh, you can’t afford that? Put it off a few months? OK - See you in 6 weeks when the oil-soaked belt slips and your pistons crash into the intake valves. That kind of thing. Basically - if buying the car was a reach, maintaining it might be a strain. Dont’t buy more car than you can afford to keep running. If you can’t get to work, your boss won’t be impressed by your Audi.
How hard is it for a non mechanic to fix a head gasket themselves?
Like many others have said, it will take a lot of tools that most non-mechanics do not have. Everyone keeps talking about torque wrenches, but there’s a whole lot more you are going to need. Before you even put a wrench on it you will need to drain the cooling system because when you remove the cylinder head, there will be a flood of coolant gushing over the top of the engine. A big mess. Then you can spend the rest of the day finding all the ,wrenches,, and ,sockets, and ,extensions, and ,screwdrivers, and ,torx sockets, both ,male and female as well as deep and shallow socket sets in either metric, SAE or possibly even both,. Some cars will require the removal of the A/C compressor, which means you will need to recover the Freon before removal. Also keep in mind that in the process of removing the radiator and heater hoses and vacuum lines and electrical connectors, there’s a really good chance that they will crack or break and that just adds to the time and cost of repairs and possibly even more tools to remove the specialized clamps or wire repair connectors and tools. Now it’s time to take off the intake manifold and carburetor or fuel injector rails and intake plenum. I’m sure you’ve already removed the air filter and possibly the intake tube snorkel and mass airflow sensor, which you do not want to touch with a greasy glove or your fingers. Then it’s time to remove the exhaust manifold(s). If its a straight four cylinder engine on a front wheel drive car, you might find that rather than risking breaking off the rusted bolts or exhaust manifold studs where the exhaust pipe is bolted to the manifold. It might behoove you to just let the manifold remain bolted to the pipe and let it hang if there’s enough room, or you might need to get under the car and remove the hangars so the assembly will drop down out of the way. Front wheel drive V6, a double nightmare since the rear manifold is almost up against the firewall and on some models the engine will need to be raised slightly to allow removal. If it’s on a rear wheel drive 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine, depending on the year and model, it can be packed in the engine compartment so tightly that you might need to remove a whole raft of things like power steering reservoirs and alternators as well as the drive belt(s). Once all that’s accomplished and you can finally get to the cylinder head(s), it’s time to remove the valve cover(s) and whatever brackets and supports are attached. Now you are looking at the top of the actual cylinder head(s) and possibly one or two camshafts. If it’s and older push rod type valve train, you will need to remove the rocker arms and remove the push rods, making sure to note exactly where each one came from. A 4 cylinder will have eight and an 8 cylinder will have 16. If it’s an overhead cam design, you will need to remove the timing belt or possibly the cam chains, which means in some cases , the entire front of the engine, (water pump, crankshaft pulley, mechanical fuel pump on some) and timing cover, then on to removing the camshafts. Once the head(s) are stripped down and the head bolts are all accessible, it’s time to test your strength with a socket wrench and and extensions to “break loose” the head bolts. Take note of the length as well as location of each bolt since many of them may not be the same length. Now it’s time to lift the heads off of the engine. depending on the type of head gaskets used, they may just lift right off or may require a bit of cussing and prying to get the adhesive to break loose from the head or engine block. Cylinder heads vary in size and weight and can run anywhere from about 30 pounds for a small 4 cylinder engine to almost a hundred pounds on a large V8. And just to make it even more of a challenge, you will have to lift them up while leaning forward over the engine compartment, and that will require at least some decent upper body strength. Now it’s time to spend a couple of hours cleaning the heads and engine block with your ,collection of de-greasers and solvents and scrapers and razor blades and scotch brite or wire brushes and wheels,. Never use a steel brush or even certain types of brass on any aluminum parts, and make sure the solvents and cleaners you are using are safe to use on aluminum and that they won’t damage anything else like the plastics or hoses and wires under the hood, cause it will splatter all over the place when cleaning. Then you can take the cylinder head(s) to a reputable machine shop and they can (and generally will) clean them before placing them into their multi thousand dollar surfacing machine. And it’s also a good time to have them check the valves and valve seals at the same time. Next comes the really confusing part of which head gasket set and possibly a front conversion set (if you had to remove the timing cover) as well as intake and possibly exhaust manifold gasket sets. The prices and quality vary wildly, so don’t try to “cheap” this out, or you’ll be right back doing the whole thing over again. You will also need to buy some new coolant as well as oil and a new filter, and installing a new coolant thermostat as well as any possibly old, cracked or tired hoses and new belt’s. It would also be the time to replace the cam belt or timing chains and tensioners since you’ve already gotten down to them at this point. Check the timing gears for excessive wear and replace them if needed. And don’t forget to maybe replace that old water pump if the engine has more than 50 or 60 thousand miles. If you are working on a newer car, you might also need to purchase a new set of head bolts if they are of the “torque to yield” variety. (Use once, throw away) Now that your cylinder head(s) have been checked and surfaced it’s time to reassemble the engine. Every part should now be cleaned and dry and organized and ready to go back together. It’s time to open your new repair manual and see what, if any, type of sealer is required before placing the new head gaskets in place. Install the gaskets and gently lower the head back in place, and if you miss or it slips, you might have already damaged the gasket. With the head in place, reinstall the head bolts and thread them in by hand before using that well mentioned torque wrench and angle gauge and follow the manual directions as to what order to torque each bolt. With the head(s) now properly bolted in place, it’s time to reassemble that massive pile of parts that’s lying all around the garage. The factory labor times can run anywhere from as little as six hours to well over 60 hours depending on the year and make of the vehicle. The cam(s) must now be properly “timed” and then install all of the other items And when it’s fully assembled, assuming you’ve made it this far, and haven’t called the junk yard, and you still have enough skin and knuckles left. It’s time to change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system and possibly the power steering reservoir. Some vehicles require that to bleed all the air from the cooling system that the car be placed on an angle because some of the coolant filling caps are actually lower than the engine so the car must be angled so that the radiator or coolant fill reservoir is higher than the cylinder head(s) and/or there can be “bleeder” valves on the engine to let out excess trapped air. Then once it starts and is running smoothly, you can vacuum down the A/C system and recharge it with Freon and see if it still works. Bingo!, Viola!, Hot Damn!, Yay, it lives again. “It’s Alive!” So, as an auto tech instructor for Honda, GM, Porsche and Ford, I would ,NOT, recommend that a non-mechanic/tech attempt to try this job especially at home. It is considered a job for an advanced mechanic at the factories and tech training centers. And if the vehicle in question is equipped with a turbo or supercharger, don’t even think about it, unless you are willing to take the risk of destroying the engine completely.
How many miles can I get out of a Honda V6 if I maintain it well?
Maintained Well? I've seen them as high as 600,000 miles. Proper Maintenance including headgaskets at 300,000 miles, valve seals, valve guides, piston rings, engine bearings. Regular Maintenance needs to be monitored and understood. Schedule : A: Oil Change B: Brake Service Minder 1: Tire Rotation Minder 2: Engine Air & Cabin Filter Minder 3: Transmission Fluid Minder 4: Valve Clearance, Timing Belt, Spark Plugs, Water Pump if needed, and Oil Pump if needed Minder 5: Antifreeze Power Steering Fluid Brake Fluid Clutch Fluid if applicable. Understand intervals of all these items. Following that Tires/Brakes/Alignment / Wheel balancing Lastly, get your car detailed once a year, having a clean vehicle will help preserve your interest in it.
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