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bmw 1100 rt Post Review
1998 BMW R 1100 RT 1998 BMW R 1100 RT 62K Low Miles 1100cc NO RESERVE - https://t.co/mvS04M5oOY https://t.co/hUO30xW4Uo
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bmw 1100 rt Q&A Review
What is the best overall motorcycle? Safe, fast, comfortable, cool--everything in one package
BMW R series motorcycles,. R-Nine-T seems to fit the description, and the R series boxer- twin motorcycle is the only bike in the world designed and engineered to go 200,000 kilometers without major repair, but just regular, ,maintenance and consumables. Let me start with my credentials: I'm a rider with 49 years experience, getting my 1st motorized two-wheeler at 10 years old. I've owned Japanese bikes from 100 to 1100 cc's from all the big four Japanese builders. I've also owned Harley-Davidson's, BSA, Norton,Triumph, and BMW. I have owned as many as 6 bikes at one time., ,All told, I believe I have over 1 million miles ridden on two wheels. I have only owned one motorcycle I truly could not come to love, as it seemed it took an hour of maintenance for every hour of riding, and that was my 1971 BSA 650. I currently ride a BMW, my 3rd bike from this company. My 1st Beemer was a ’73 R75/5 which I bought with 14k miles on it in ‘76, trading my Harley Sportster chopper for it. I put another 219k miles on that Beemer before I sold it in 1986. Most of that time,I almost never chose to drive a car ,(Yes, 233k miles on the bike, with new rings and a valve job at 177k miles) My next Beemer came after several Honda’s and a funtastic Suzuki GT-750. It was an R60 that I had only a few weeks before it was totalled by a friend I let ride it. I then owned a KZ750 Spectre, a Yamaha Seca turbo, a Suzuki TS-185 and a Suzuki Intruder 800 before deciding to get another BMW. I currently ride a ‘96 R850R with nearly 80k miles on it and just made arrangements to pick up an ’04 K1200-RT with only 20k miles. I love motorcycles, but as you get older, you realize there's something incredibly cool about plain old comfortable reliability and durability.
What is your experience owning a BMW vehicle?
Good question. Complex answer. I rode my first BMW, a 250 single, as a road-test rider for The Motor Cycle in London, long ago. I later graduated to a series of ‘airhead’ boxer twins, primarily the R100RS (I owned three of them, riding ~150,000 miles), a magnificent sport-tourer. After than, a K75S triple, also an excellent machine, which I rode all over Europe (the K100 had vibration issues). Over many years, riding BMW exclusively, I rode over half a million miles on them and never had a bad experience or problem. The bags worked perfectly, better than any other machine I have ever owned or tested (>150 tested over the years). Then I ‘moved up’ to an ‘oilhead’ R1100RS. This was a huge mistake. The bike worked well and performed satisfactorily, until one day when I crossed a minor road ‘discontinuity’ and bent the front rim. This deflated the front tyre, but slowly. By the time it was going flat, I was in heavy traffic. A front flat makes a bike almost uncontrollable, but a friendly motorist in an RV let me cross in front of him into the center divide, a dirt strip about fifty feet wide. I did not drop the bike, by some miracle. I had to get a tow/ride home. Now, for context, the California Highway Patrol had taken up the BMW R1100RTP police bike and experienced ~450 bent rims—the CHP pushes the riding envelope, all the time. BMW changed the alloy, which solved the problem, but made no announcement of this. My bike had the older alloy. BMW did not warrant these wheels and charged me $1100 for the wheel and tyre. I reported this incident to the NHTSA (National Highway Transportation Safety Association) but received no response. Note, also in context, that many years earlier BMW had problems with their ‘snowflake’ wheels on the airhead, and warranted them. Not with the oilhead. I sold my R1100RS after my costly bent-rime incident and have not even considered buying another BMW bike, though I tested several, including the R1, R1100RT and R1100GS. The R1 was a big, fast bike that had a serious ‘buzz.’ The RT electric windshield worked well. The GS was so big, high and heavy that I was very concerned about dropping it (go alone into rough country and you might have to walk home). So, in answer to the question, I would not consider purchasing another BMW.
How many motorcycles have you had in your lifetime?
1968 Honda Z50a 1960 Vespa 150 Super 1976 Honda CB 350 1982 Suzuki GS 450 1980 Suzuki GS 850G Superb bike. Falls into a comfy groove at about 75 mph, and simply keeps rolling. A true coast to coaster. Mine had a kicker. The 4 carbs can be a bitch, but once dialed, it’s pure sweetness. 1976 BMW R90RS ’cause I wanted one since I first saw one. There is no substitute for an airhead. 1982 BMW R80RT w/1000cc jugs and Delorto carbs 1976 Yamaha XT 250 1995 BMW K75 Probably the best BMW. Use it, abuse it. Always runs, with lovely velvety power. Quiet. Will go faster than your angels can fly. 1995 BMW K75S Gave this one to a female friend. She was riding a Honda 750 Aero with obnoxious pipes. She has since become a MSF instructor. Super bike, with all upgrades. Will go anywhere. 2006 SYM 200 commuter scooter. A brilliant bike. 72 mph wound, about 75 mpg. No one tours on a light scooter, but I put plenty of miles on with my camping kit and had a great time. A coast to coaster. Change oil regularly. 2006 Aprilia Scarabeo 500 Fast! Winds out at 104, and gets there in a hurry. Just the thing for Harley hunting. Keep her down in the corners. 2005 Suzuki V-Strom 650 an angel of a bike, and pure poetry in the corners. 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650A Zombie Apocalypse Edition. Does nothing particularly well, but does everything well enough. This is a bike that will get you anywhere and home again. 20, 000 miles in a year. 2005 Suzuki DR-Z 400E The eager pony. Had the best ride of my life in Newfoundland, with some of the finest companions I’ll ever meet. 1996 Kawasaki KDX 200. Lovely 2T machine. As forgiving as your mother. 1982 Honda GL 1100 w/sidecar. That was fun. 1996 Honda PC 800 Pacific Coast. Somewhat stodgy, but as reliable as a hammer. Big storage. Comes with a calendar instead of a speedometer. Not the fastest. . . 1995 Suzuki DR 350 Not in the hundreds, to be sure, but a representative selection. The Honda 350 was a dog, and the BMW 800 RT was really fast when it ran correctly, which wasn’t often. It had been worked on by too many amateurs.
What is the best motorcycle you ever owned? What made it so good? Do you still have it?
I can’t name one , it has to do with Purpose and emotion . Honda 250 scrambler CL72 1963 I traveled on this bike , thousands of miles and many first time experiences , then raced it for three years . Truly my introduction to the shear joy of riding . Honda CR250 1973 , I won many races on this bike at the peak of my racing career, have fantastic memories and emotional attachment to it . Honda CB750 , I rode this model daily from 1969 to 1975 , over three hundred thousand miles . For most people a life time of memories . They were very good . BMW RT 1100 - 1250 again thousands of miles over a ten year period , much of this in other countries as well as the states. Great handling , comfort and performance. Sights and experiences beyond description . Vincent Black Shadow 1950 , a dream of a bike . This bike has a direct link to my heart and soul . When riding it you feel you and the engine are one . I rode it across the USA , from Northern Ireland to race at the Isle of Man, then to Rome and back , then back across the USA , I was hit on this bike and lost my leg . I rebuilt it and me , and still ride it regularly . Ducati Multistrada 1200s , my canyon chaser , many fantastic rides , awesome speed and handling , a test of skill and adrenaline rush . Dicing with and Camaraderie with a select group of racers . others to numerous to mention . I still own 1–6 and ride them regularly . In most cases it brings back that warm friendly feeling of old memories and adventures. Some of those adventures might melt the soles of your shoes .
Any experience with shaft driven bikes?
I waited to respond, I wanted to see what others had to say first, and I see a few errors. BMW was the best known shaft drive bike, in the ’60s Moto Guzzi also started selling shaft drive touring style bikes, both had automotive style layouts, the longitudinal mounted engine, a dry clutch on a heavy flywheel, a separate gearbox and last a drive shaft to a rear end that enclosed a ring and pinion gear set. For both brands, the results were smooth and reliable power transmission that seemed to be a big improvement over having to grease frequently the chain, and then clean the mess off the rear rim. and then adjust the chain tension over and over. Side effects though included feeling the torque reaction when the throttle was blipped due to the bike twisting counter to the rotating crank and its flywheel, not a big deal once you were used to it, but it would twist the bike during a wheelie. The long engine gearbox layout resulted in a short swingarm though and as power is added or dropped the U-joint in the driveshaft, in line with the swing arm pivot tries to straighten or relax, causing a jacking effect to the rear suspension. I would call that a non issue for all but the most sporting uses, and when Japanese models with longitudinal engines added driveshafts they typically had longer swing arms that lessened the effect automatically. (the swing arm is a lever, the longer lever fights the tendency for the U joint to straighten under load) After BMW and Guzzi, the next very popular shaft drive model was the Honda Gold Wing. It also had a longitudinal engine but the gears and clutch were integral and the smooth flat 4 did not need a heavy flywheel, counter rotating parts meant torque reaction was lessened and the overall driveshaft length was proportionately longer, and of course the bike was not a track bike so perfect handling was not expected, it was a huge success. Most Japanese shaft drive models since then have a transverse engine so there is no torque reaction issue, however that requires a second right angle gear set the drive the shaft, so theoretically the design becomes a bit less efficient. The transverse engine allows a longer swing arm also. The ease of maintenance satisfies most riders that the shaft drive is worth it, especially on touring bikes. The unsprung weight of the rear end unit is also tolerated by most touring riders. Back to BMW, with the 1981 R 80 GS model they introduced the single sided swing ar (Monolever), presumably as the large ring gear needed to be well supported in the rear end unit, it was logical to bolt the rear wheel also to the ring gear and so do away with the added expense of wheel bearings. The ring gear bearings did double duty as wheel bearings! It was an innovative design that also lowered manufacturing cost while looking very clever. Soon that design was adopted to all their shaft drive models. Prior to that design BMW driveshafts were known for durability, A small amount of oil was in the swing arm leg to wet the U joint and the sliding splines, but they also went to an inline rubber shock absorber on the drive shaft (as is common on front wheel drive axles) and the oil was removed from the swing arms. That is when durability begins to fall, as the U joints did not last as long without oil. In 1988 the R 100 GS introduced their Paralever design, it added a second U joint at the rear and parallelogram levers that enabled the rear drive to move up and down vertically to lessen the effect of torque thru the drive shaft on handling, that design then was added to their larger 4 cylinder K series also. The effect was a longer wheelbase, smooth operation but now the $600 driveshaft was getting a limited life. My personal examples include a loose U joint at 30 K in my R 100 GS and a shattered U joint at 60 k miles in my K 1100. That same K bike had worn out the rear end bearings allowing the rear wheel to be wobbly for its previous owner, another significant expense. Since then BMW made the rear end unit lighter but has even more failures. The result is that modern BMW models with a driveshaft have a built in point of likely expensive failure. A worrisome aspect is that wear there is not easily visible, compared to for example a worn drive chain. Moto Guzzi and Kawasaki both have also built models with double jointed driveshafts to minimize jacking under load, I have never heard of reliability issues though on those models. A negative side effect of some drive shaft models is excessive backlash in the drive train, this was a specific complaint on the Honda VFR 1200. Put the bike on the centerstand so the rear wheel is in the air, and put the bike in gear with the engine off. By hand turn the rear wheel back and forth and notice how far , or how many degrees of rotation exist. My 1977 BMW R 100 shows about 1″ of backlash at the rear rim, the same as my chain drive KTM. My paralever K 1200 RS has about 2 “ while a Yamaha V max which has 2 right angle gear sets has 3”. This is not a specific problem or sign of wear, it does contribute to a possible sense of looseness, and test riders did complain of it on the VFR though. The original question begs a comparison to non shaft drive bikes, so let’s see. Over the years chains have become much stronger so need much less frequent adjustment, my KTM 950 might need adjustment after a couple thousand miles. Modern chains also have grease sealed in the joints with o-rings, so less lubrication is needed. External lubrication now has just 2 functions, to prevent rust and to help the rollers slide onto the sprocket teeth smoothly. Most bikes since the ’80s have o-ring chains, and the best chains now are stronger than what was available decades ago. Life of a chain and sprocket pair can easily be 20k miles on a street bike and the wear is readily visible, like looking at the tread on the tires. Harley and some others use toothed belts to drive the rear wheel and many claim those belts last 100k miles or more; belt drive models often have less wheel travel to keep the belt tight and are susceptible to damage from stones, so are not suitable for off road use. Changing a belt takes more labor than changing a chain, but is needed less frequently. A variant no longer seen is the enclosed chain drive; Honda and Bultaco both had versions, presumably that is not considered stylish today but is would prolong chain life and keep the grease off the rear rim. Most of the top touring bikes, the Gold Wing, FJR 1300, Concours 1400 and R 1250 RT have shaft drive, the big Harley and Indian models have belt drives. A couple muscle bikes also have shaft drive, the V max and the Triumph Rocket 3 . Most other bikes have chain drives. I would buy a bike for its use and style; not its type of drive. The recent BMW driveshaft models need to be watched, driveshaft and rear end issues often become surprise expenses.
How do bikers manage to ride their motorbikes on icey and wet surfaces when on roads?
I have lived in Michigan most of my life and we have ice snow or mud more often than not . It’s the perfect storm for learning how to ride on slippery surfaces . I did ice racing and trials riding , both of those sports teach you the fine art of throttle control . When you are on a very slippery surface, you often have to keep your bike in a more vertical position . More of a 90 degree Angle to the ground . Then you apply throttle very gently so as not to break traction . It also helps to run less tire pressure , this gives you more traction as well . But like most technique there is a learning curve . You begin riding on slippery surfaces , you loose control , Maybe even fall but eventually figure out how minutely you can apply throttle and how to steer with body movement and handlebar movement while keeping the bike much more vertical than normal . All slippery surfaces are not the same and practice will give you insight as to how to handle them . This guy ended up with a ticket , a broken collar bone and a wrecked bike because he didn’t expect ice on the Road . Caution is required . On shear smooth ice , you have to keep your bike perfectly upright , and just maintain the speed you are already riding at . What I’m mean is any quick acceleration or deceleration will cause you to loose traction , so you must vary your throttle speed ever so slightly to maintain control . If the ice is a little rough or has snow stuck to it , there will be more traction and you can apply more throttle. Lets say it’s a combination of ice snow and slush . Maybe a spring thaw , that condition will give you more traction and you can steer the bike with more throttle than on glare ice . Your best bet is don’t ride when the roads can have ice on them . But some things are not always apparent ? On this kind of snow you can get a little traction but it’s best to stay home and watch a motocross race on tv . Rain on pavement is a whole different animal ! Modern tires get great traction in the rain . Provided that the street surface was clean to begin with or the rain has lasted long enough to cleanse the road . This is a photo of my good friend Ben Kingham winning a Road race in a heavy rain . He loves this condition because he has a lot of experience in the rain . On a good surface in the rain you can still lean your bike and ride quite normally . You will have only slightly less traction , but you go a little slower , don’t lean quite so far and as with any slippery surface , avoid quick throttle changes , be smooth accelerating or decelerating . Gentle control of the throttle is a learned and important part of riding on slippery surfaces . The other ingredient is practice . Start slow and expect to fall down . You will can learn quickly on a small bike at slow speed how important a mild hand on the throttle can be , you quickly develop a feel for traction and how much of it you have . I don’t suggest anyone ride a street bike on an icy road , you will have very little control and it’s extremely dangerous . But sometimes it happens without warning. Two situations I have been in. I was riding with a group in the Alps , my wife was on the back and we were riding a BMW RT 1100 . There were five other bikes ahead of us . We had been taking turns at the last position and it was our turn . This group was riding the high passes and it was early October. Cool but not freezing. We were all very experienced riders . At one point we crested the top of a mountain . At that point we were going relatively straight and slow as the two of us came over the crest , I saw a horrible sight . All five bikes were on their sides and sliding down the road . We had been on a slight uphill grade and as we crested the top it went slightly downhill on the other side . On the entrance side it had been sunny and dry , but the other side faced north and the warm air of the earlier day had made the road damp but as the sun changed position that dampness became a perfect mirror surface of ice . Seeing the fallen bikes and riders I made sure our bike was perfectly upright . The road had a slight curve to it . So in an upright position eventually I would go off the road . Then very gradually I backed off the gas . You feel the tire slip and here the engine speed up when it does , so I kept my throttle very steady but gradually slower . We stayed upright and lost speed until we were going very slow . If I had leaned the bike at all it would have slid on its side . But I didn’t and when we were at a very slow speed I rode the bike off the side of he road into light snow where I could slow down more and eventually into a snow bank which stopped us in an upright position . We were very lucky , my heart. Was in my mouth . Seeing your friends crash in front of you is a great horror , and a major distraction. But my years of ice racing experience was just enough to plant us in a snow bank and not crash . This whole sceane was a night mare and no one was seriously hurt but it could have been disastrous. From that point on we were much more carefull about cresting hills from south to north . Riding in Southern California on a cool fall day I was with my normal group of riding buddies . Four of us . We were riding Ortega highway which has endless turns and often the sides of the road are steep Rock faces . The temperature was about 50 degrees in early morning , sunny and some what windy . Dry and great riding weather . About half way down the road we entered a turn with a steep north facing rock wall , this turn also crosses a bridge . A small spring in the rock face had allowed water and condensation onto the bridge . Because the bridge was shaded , was damp , was in a lower cannon, and the wind was whistling at speed the bridge froze with ice . This was the perfect storm . All other indications told us the road was dry and safe . But years of riding this road had taught us that an early morning ride thru these cannons can be treacherous. We were aware that there could be ice on the bridges and approached them with extreme caution . We all slowed before entering that curve and rode over the icy bridge upright and slow feathering the throttle. I must say we were all very surprised to find that much ice on such a nice day but it only confirmed that you must be very cautious when you don’t know the road and ride in early mornings or late evenings while weather is changing .
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