porsche 911 problems
porsche 911 problems Related Articles
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Sime Darby Auto Performance (SDAP), the official importer and distributor of Porsche models in Malaysia
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Porsche 911 April Used Car Offers
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porsche 911 problems Post Review
It's P6 for us in Sunday's Round 3 of the 2019 iRacing VLN Endurance Championship! Our #84 Porsche 911 GT3 Cup was really strong, but tire problems early on prevented an even better finish. Face report: https://t.co/SJUInM8sqh #iRacingVLN https://t.co/1NQNOSF1Vt
Germany: "Volkswagen and Porsche have to recall 227,000 cars due to problems with airbags and seatbelt pre-tensioners. Tiguan, Sharan and CC models built in 2015 as well as Porsche 911, Boxter, Cayman und Panamera models from 2015 and 2016." - 😏 https://t.co/IMJo53hHfr https://t.co/FMq5JX70eY
Porsche 911 and 2 bikes? Not a problem 😀😀#porschekendal . .@porschecentrekendal @bishops_ca https://t.co/XkSEKf5vM7
$Gold rigging is a 24 hour operation that starts every night w BOJ's "Tokyo Drift". Central banks problem is $Gold is a Porsche 911 w it's engine in the trunk. When you "drift" a Porsche 911 you learn a very important lesson (assuming you survive). #DrKiller https://t.co/Wizi9eLiBx
The GT1 foray with the 390 Nissan. Qual OK at Le Mans 1997 2nd behind Porsche GT1, ran ok in race but decimated by gearbox problems. 1998 3rd, 5th, 6th, and 10th overall, being beaten only by the Porsche 911 GT1. Pretty car. https://t.co/U0TDXZ2i5N
Guy with Porsche 911 problems UPDATE #Learn #English #Funny #Pictures #Jokes #Gram... http://t.co/VsovzMQv2D http://t.co/Nq1bVGEPYi
A Porsche 911 TurboS for your problems https://t.co/OUGdMNVyVq
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The 2017 @Porsche 911 Turbo: Mo' money (and performance, and equipment), no problems. https://t.co/hf99gd5YRT https://t.co/NDohOP45ux
Daily Porsche Tips: Porsche 911 Problems http://bit.ly/bQmysL
porsche 911 problems Q&A Review
Will a non smog exempt air cooled Porsche 911 (76-98) have problems passing California smog?
Not if it has the required-when-new equipment installed, operational and functioning and does not exceed the emission standards set at the time of manufacture.
What are the steps to troubleshooting a cold start problem on an early 80s Porsche 911 SC?
There’s a pile of “it depends” in there. The SC uses the Bosch CIS injection system, which is an analog mechanical system designed to approximated limit condition operation of a pulsed injection system in a way that made it significantly less expensive to mass-produce, with acceptable results for both street and high performance applications. As such, it was a compromise. The really shitty part of the deal is that there haven’t been new parts manufactured in some key areas for a very long time, and depending on the specifics of the systems on your car, you might not be able to actually acquire the parts you need. So, how this works… Fuel is pulled from the tank by the pump and run through the fuel accumulator which is basically a big capacitor used to even out the pressure variations over time. It then flows through the filter, in the fuel distributor and thence forking into a manifold of direct lines to each of the injectors, and a spur to the control pressure regulator with a bypass dump back to the tank. The other end of the distributor is a swash plate on a lever arm, with a spring pulling it to a “down” position. With the engine at idle, the arm is down, the control pressure circuit dumps most of the fuel to hold a low pressure, just enough to barely activate the injectors - which unlike pulsed injectors spray constantly. As the air flow increases, the arm pulls up, the control plunger moves to increase pressure (flow remaining constant) which materially increases the flow of fuel to the injectors thus the cylinders, increasing power, and RPM, which then continues to increase, etc. At steady state, and in the higher RPM ranges, this works surprisingly well. In the transitions, the heavily analog nature of the control path means there are delays and discontinuities. And of course… cold start. For cold starts to work correctly, the ratio of fuel to air is significantly increased along with some additional atomization of the fuel. This is done by a separate cold-start injector, connected to the grossly mis-named “warmup regulator”. Here are the things that most frequently tank the system. Unmetered air,. Key things to look for: the boots between the air runners and the main air box, the o-rings that seal the injectors to the air runners, and cracks in the airbox itself. If you’ve had an engine backfire (or three) you can easily crack the ABS plastic that the airbox is made of, or “pop” one of the boots. Unmetered air is the number one thing that goes wrong with these engines. Pro tip: drop the engine to do the seals, do the injector seals and air runner boots at the same time, and while that’s all apart… do the on-engine oil cooler seals, and seriously consider the engine crank main front seal. Because it’ll never be easier. Bad injectors. ,This can be some number are clogged, or it can be flow differential between varying injectors. Spec is a couple of percent difference, sort of the analog limits of measurement at low flow. If that changes materially, the engine either won’t run right, or won’t run at all. Stuck open is way worse than stuck closed, neither are great. Wrong fuel pressure., That’s the number one thing that goes wrong. Can be a bad pickup, crap in the tank, bad pump, bad filter, crap in the lines, bad control pressure regulator, blocked return. Luckily that’s easy to measure and only needed at a single point on the manifold. If it’s OK, it’s OK; if not, figuring out the cause can be painful. Bad fuel distributor., This is where you may, or may not, be fucked. There’s a fairly specific procedure in the manual for measuring fuel pressure variation based on intake arm excursion. If you’re not seeing that… you likely have a fuel distributor issue. This is one of the pain points. They haven’t made new fuel distributors for the 911 family since 1988. For a USA spec car, you can probably source one. For a RoW spec car… well… I had a Euro spec that needed a fuel distributor, and could not source one, anywhere. Wound up having to disassemble it, re-build and re-calibrate it. The distributor is not designed to be a user serviceable part, and this is a super advanced repair. Avoid if possible. Bad warmup injector., This separate injector doesn’t get the same flow volumes that main injectors get. Much more likely to have issues as a result. Benefits from cleaning. Ultrasonic cleaner with a tank of MEK or toluene is recommended for this. Yeah. The EPA/DEQ will hate you. Bad warmup regulator,. This is the warmup regulator As noted, this controls pressure to the warm up injector. This is a part matched to the fuel distributor. It’s a bypass pressure regulator with a bimetallic sensor which regulates pressure to the warmup injector. If it goes, you won’t be getting flow on the warmup injector, and you will have trouble with cold starts. Also not made since the late 80s. Very specific to the fuel distributor. At one point the manual said “replace together” much like alternator/voltage regulator. There’s a test procedure for looking at fuel pressure at the warmup injector based on measured temp of the regulator. If it’s bad, it’s bad. Unlike the distributor, I’m not sure this is fixable as it’s usually due to spring constants changing due to wear, or aged and failed rubber parts in the vacuum circuit. You really need the test rig for this. You can find them around, typically about $100–150. Here’s one on Amazon: ,Amazon.com: CTA Tools 3420 Compatible for Bosch K Jetronic C.I.S. Fuel Injection Pressure Tester And you’ll need the manual. Which you can find here -> ,http://www.type17.ch/downloads/Injection/Bosch%20-%20K-Jet%20-%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf,. Download it. Save it. You’ll need it. And best of luck.
Your 1998 911 Porsche manual transmission is stuck in reverse. What could be the problem?
Could either be stuck shift linkage or internal damage, disconect the linkage and see if you can shift, if still stuck then transmission has to come apart.
How big a risk is it to buy a 3-5 year old Porsche 911 that is out of warranty? Are costly mechanical problems common?
With any high performance and expensive car, there are a few things to remember. The first is this: it’s all about how the previous owner(s) both used and maintained the car. Oh look, the car is five years old, and only has 12,000 miles on it! What a bargain! Except all of those miles are track miles, which is like 20x typical street miles. Mmmm… Ooops. Or, it’s got ‘normal low use mileage’ - five years, call that 40,000 miles, pretty typical for a “fair weather driver”. But. It only had two oil changes in that interval. Again, ooops. For me, buying anything in that space, it’s all 100% about ,WHO, am I buying it from and what ,records, they have. At the higher end, the who can matter a lot. There’s a fellow in Dallas, I won’t name names, a frequent flyer in buying and selling of Porsches, and if I was considering buying a car from him, I’d take his word on it absolutely. I probably wouldn’t even get a pre-buy inspection on it. For me the hierarchy runs like this: do I know them? Do I know anyone who knows them? Do I know the shop they use? Does anyone I know know the shop they use? If you get a thumbs up anywhere in that path, you’re a “known person” and what you say can be vetted, at least to some extent. Mind you, I’ve been active in the Porsche community since the mid 1980s, all over the US. I know a lot of people, that’s a pretty damn big net. So I can vet your claims in a handful of phone calls, and then we’re into part two of the program, the pre-buy inspection. Apart from cars from a very select number of individuals I trust implicitly, every car gets a pre-buy. I expect to spend between $300 and a grand on it, depending on the car. Each generation has a selection of things that need to be checked, not all the same. Competent shops know the drill. And it has to be done by a shop in my “chain of trust”. I’ve had a bunch of cars inspected that I declined to buy. I’ve never regretted spending that money or time. And as soon as someone says “no” to any of my conditions on the inspection, game over, Johnny, what do we have for our guest? Do your work right, make the right calls, insist on a fully documented car that you can verify the documentation on, and typically, you wind up with a car that is ,no worse than if you’d bought it new yourself,. That’s sort of the gold standard. You can’t ask for better than that. Keeping that in mind is key. And remember, even if you’d bought it new, and maintained it meticulously, there would still be wear. Shit would break, eventually. That’s the way of mechanical devices. When it does, the parts prices are proportional to the original MSRP of the car, not the depreciated value at the time you bought it. That $20k 911 from the early 2000s? It was $70k new, so you’re not going to be looking at parts prices comparable to a new Kia, I’m just warning you. Labor prices are proportional to the precision of assembly. A 911 is more expensive than a Camry, by a lot. But a 911GT3 is way, way more expensive than a 911. Keep those things in mind, and you won’t be surprised. And good luck.
How many miles does an average Porsche 911 run before it starts to have lots of problems?
All cars have problems of one kind or another. In general, I find 911’s are very reliable for the kind of motoring that people subject them to. There are a few known issues with each variant of 911, but I have owned 3 different ones with over 200k miles. All on the original engine and transmission. If you are thinking of a model built within the last 10 years, 997.1 variants up to 2009 with the M97 engine suffered coil pack, coolant tank & cap and IMS bearing problems. A few suffered Air Oil Separator problems. The IMS bearing issue is very overblown, most statistics available show the problem affect anywhere from 1% to 8% of cars. Compare this with Audi, where almost all of them will suffer catastrophic timing chain problems after 100k miles, or BMW engines where most are suffering from repeated expensive failures at high mileage, such as VANOS failures, rod bearing issues and engine block flex warping the oil pans. After 2009, the M96 / M97 engine in the 911 was redesigned from the ground up and the new 9A1 unit is pretty bullet proof for a high performance, low displacement engine. The model designations for cars with this newer engine are 997.2, 991.1, 991.2 and 992. The only issues being reported seem to be carbon build up (common in all late direct injection engines) and scattered reports of bore scoring.
What is the weirdest insurance you have ever purchased?
Weasels ate my Porsche When my (now ex) husband and I were living in Switzerland, he had a ‘mid-life crisis’ and got a Porsche 911 (actually, he was going to get a Boxster but I said ‘man up - if you want a Porsche, get a ,real ,Porsche,’, and ,that’s ,how we got the 911). But, I digress.. One winter day, I decided to take it into town to meet a friend. I noticed it was sluggish backing out of the garage. Then, when I hit the accelerator to go forward just…..nothing. It kind of crept forward about 10 kph, not the response you’d expect from fine German engineering! The garage came and loaded it up to check out the problem. They called about an hour later: Mechanic - ‘Your accelerator cable was stripped and the cable housing was eaten - probably by weasels. Happens a lot here in winter, there’s some sugar or something in that material they eat when the weather gets cold.’ Me - ‘Well, that’s interesting - how much is this ‘fun’ going to cost me?’ Mechanic - ‘Oh, nothing! Your insurance policy covers ‘weasel’ damage. We’ll have it fixed and back over there this afternoon. No charge.’ So, that’s how I found out I’d purchased an insurance policy with a ‘weasel clause.’ Definitely the weirdest insurance I’ve ever bought!
How reliable is Porsche 911?
Owned 10 Porsches: a 1984 Porsche 944, 1980 Porsche 928, 1997 Porsche Boxster, 2000 Porsche 911, 2003 Porsche Boxster S, 2003 Porsche 911 4, 2003 Porsche 911 Turbo X50, 2016 Porsche Boxster GTS, and my current 2015 Porsche 911 4 S. Never had any failures that required any of these cars to be towed, other than the normal maintenance, no unexpected repairs. On the Porsche 928 I did have a malfunctioning alternator, fortunately I bought a service contract. The car was in the shop 3 days because the service contract company wanted to find a rebuilt alternator, back then it was a $1,000 part. Found out much later that coolant went to the alternator, and that a company that rebuilds alternators, found they could not rebuild this one. Build Quality on Porsches, is excellent. Ever wonder why magazine covers claim headlines like the next Porsche or Ferrari beating car tested. Because these Marques set the standards in the sport car industry. Not saying these cars never have problems, but the manufactures do stand behind their cars. When the first water cooled sport cars hit the market and intermediate shafts were failing, Porsche would take out the old engine and replace with a new engine, and then they would ship the old engine back to Germany for a tear down. Constant improvement has always been a hallmark of Porsche cars and engines. To make a long story short Porsches are extremely reliable, last a very long time, and keep their value through the years. One of the best driving experiences in the sport car world, but don’t believe me, go drive one for yourself!
porsche 911 problems Related FAQs
Does Porsche 911 has Airbag Disable Function?
No, Porsche 911 doesn't have Airbag Disable Function.
What is the Horsepower (ps) of Porsche 911?
Here are the Horsepower (ps) and variants of Porsche 911:
Variants 2019 Porsche 911 The new 911 Carrera 2019 Porsche 911 The New 911 Carrera S 2019 Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet 2019 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S 2019 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S Cabriolet 2018 Porsche 911 Carrera T 2019 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabriolet 2019 Porsche 911 911 GT3 2019 Porsche 911 GT3 RS 2019 Porsche 911 GT2 RS Horsepower (ps) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Does Porsche 911 has Rear Foglamps?
No, Porsche 911 doesn't have Rear Foglamps.
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